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Everything posted by allanyed
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I agree with Mark about Chuck Passaro's kit designs. The big difference that I have seen from the posts here at MSW, is that Chuck builds these models and can help along the way. He understands the "how to" and knows materials that work and don't work. Also, his designs yield very nicely detailed and accurate finished models. Allan
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Chuck, I may have missed it in an earlier post, but is the red paint also a Grumbacher acrylic? If so, which red, or is it a custom made shade? Are they straight out of the tube or thinned at all? I do like Grumbacher acrylics having used them for years back in the day when I tried my hand at painting on canvas and they are certainly easy to find. I don't have any desire to move back to NJ :>) , but I would have liked to be there to see the model up close and personal at a NJ club meeting. Allan
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
allanyed replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Mars, I like your use of jigs, it assures consistency in sizing on the rings. And the adjustable jig for the chains allows one to make the various lengths that are needed as they do need to be longer as they go forward to aft with the angle change. What I cannot figure out is when you install the chains, they are not silver soldered. Do you install, fit them to length and then take them off, silver solder and reinstall? Thanks Allan -
Mike, The Euryalus master's log is considered the most comprehensive on site log of the battle. The original is at Lloyd's of London but no longer available to be seen by the public due to its poor condition. It was transcribed by Admiral T. Sturges Jackson in his chronicles and I transcribed it in the Euryalus book, Volume I. There is also a transcription in the Euryalus book of the Adm. Collinwood letter to the Admiralty that was published November 6, 1805 in the London Gazette that you may find useful. You can find these on line but please feel free to email me if you would like me send them over to you. I would copy them here, but I use IE and I understand MSW does not allow cut and paste if you use IE. Allan
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Chuck It is the little things that I keep noticing and going back to on your model. The hatch coamings and head ledges' joints are really well done, the belaying pins look to be at scale, not the bulbous pins seen on so many models, rings and bolts look to be at scale. She is a beauty! Allan
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Les, I also like W.E. May's book which includes the same scantlings found in Elements of Naval Architecture and are also given in Scantlings of the Royal Navy. Another great reference is Lavery's The Arming and Fitting British Ships of War 1650 to 1815. There are a number of drawings that can be found at the NMM Collections. Just write in long boat, pinnace, cutter, whatever is appropriate in the search box in the Collections section and they will come up. Some are clear enough to use from the site, and all can be purchased digitally and are extremely clear. Allan
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Gaetan, You have far more invested in photographic equipment than most members have model building equipment. Very impressive to most of us point and shoot folks. Allan
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Gordon, I found your post interesting so did a little searching. There were 15 ships named Greyhound in the British Navy, including a 15 gun cutter 1763, and a 14 gun cutter 1780. But, I believe these are a bit large compared to the Sherbourne of 1763. The kit gives it as an 8 gun, but the National Maritime Museum written description for the Sherbourne of 1763, (and cited in Winfield's British Warships in the Age of Sail) say she carried six 3 pounders and 8 swivels. However, the original drawings show 4 gun ports on each side which would seem to indicate an 8 gun vessel. Wonder if it is a mistake in the description or there is a reason for the discrepancy. The drawings actually show another port at the bow, but not likely a gun port. These two forward most ports are not shown on the deck plan. Allan
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Gaetan, I am no expert on the field of photography, but the best results I have been able to achieve are shooting outdoors on the north side of my house so the sun is completely blocked and the model is in the shadow of the house. I lay a sheet of photo backdrop paper, usually light grey, on the ground and run it up a wall so there is no seam. A little tape is used at the top. It is all then indirect lighting so very little or no shadow. Overcast day is best IMHO, still light enough, but virtually no shadows, glare, reflection etc. It only takes 5 minutes or so to set up. I wind up laying on the ground to take the shots, but not a hardship to do so. Allan
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Your entire build log is beyond words. It is a joy to go back to earlier pages as well as current pages. Allan
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Inserting scanned object
allanyed replied to Mark P's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Mark, I don't understand. If you are redrawing everything in pen and ink and pencil, I assume you will not draw the background rectangle so it will not be there when it is scanned in. I am definitely missing something here. Is your attached one of the carvings from the vessel? If it is, can you show this carving example in situ on the Caroline? That may help understand what you are going for. Allan -
Hans This is the first I have checked in on your build. Your work is excellent. Your history is also interesting. I see that you are from near Eindhoven and I know that town has an extreme historical story, especially during WWII, and I believe is the original home of Phillips Electronics. I look forward to following your build. Allan
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Ed Your metal work is every bit as exceptional as your wood work. Allan
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Ron, I am in agreement with Jud, Gun ports on the QD, forecastle or even in the waist, had no lids. The bulkhead and cap rail indicates that this is probably one of those areas. Lids in these areas would serve no purpose, so the money would not be spent to put them (or anything else that is not needed) on most ships. Allan
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Wales
allanyed replied to -Dallen's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Dallen As mentioned by Druxey, the country and era would help a lot. If for British ships, there is quite a bit of information available. The 1719 Establishment gives the depth, thickness, mention of hook and butt construction of the main and channel wales and also the thickness and number of diminishing strakes above and below the wales. The Shipbuilders Repository (1788) and Steel's, Elements of Naval Architecture (1805) give the height of the lower edge of the main wales at the stem, dead flat, and after timber as measured from the upper edge of the rabbet for all rates. It also gives how broad, the number of strakes and thickness. It gives distance from the upper edge of the main wales to the lower edge of the channel wale in midships as well as the thickness, etc. of the channel wales. They also give thickness of the strakes above and below the main wales. All of the above dimensions can be found in Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships. Allan -
Ed, You continue to bring smiles to many faces here at MSW, not to mention a high bench mark for all to reach for. Is there a future home already determined for this beauty? Next time someone asks for a definition of museum quality on one of the forums here, I will respond that they should look at your build log as a prime example. Allan
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Hamilton, Any scratched fishing schooner build and I am there. Love those vessels and watching you delve into the dark side is a treat. Keep up the great work. Allan
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Chuck You took what many find to be an overly complicated adventure and showed that it only takes a little patience and commonly owned tools. Cudos Allan
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