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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    Alan To show off the lines between pieces, it appears you did what I like to do, use pieces of wood from different parts of the same stock or a different piece of stock of the same species. Just having the grain run in different directions will also show the joint line. The down side is that the joint better be really good as are yours, otherwise any gap or such will "shine" through. Allan
  2. allanyed
    Michael Are you referring to the Medway specifically or some other ship? According to the RMG Collections, Medway 1742 and Dreadnought 1742 both were built to the 1733 Establishment proposals, thus a beam of 41 feet versus 39 feet as specified in the 1719 Establishment. Allan
  3. allanyed
    What Wayne said :>) You might try Danny V's tables and you should get accurate information. Allan
  4. allanyed
    Michael, I forgot to mention in the last posting, that the masts and spars were proportionate to the beam of the ship at that time, therefore, with a change of the beam in ships built to the 1733 modifications, the spar dimensions would have changed as well. Allan
  5. allanyed
    Michael, I suspect as is often the case, it depends on the rate or maybe even the specific ship and a bit on the shipwrights. The 50s and 60's were made slightly larger based on the 1733 modifications to the Establishment. Bigger changes came with the 1745 Establishment. Examples of a 60 gun fourth rate HMS Windsor 1729 built to the 1719 Establishment, Length on the gun deck 144' 0" Beam 39' 0" HMS Warwick 1733, built to the 1719 Establishment, Length on the gun deck 144' 0" Beam 39' 0" HMS Stafford 1735 built to the 1733 modifications of the 1719 Establishment, Length on the gun deck 144'0" Beam 41' 5" HMS Tiger 1747, built to the 1745 Establishment Length on the gun deck 150' 0" Beam 42' 8" Allan
  6. allanyed
    Michael :D Just don't turn into a sesquipedalian for crying out loud. The 1719 Establishment was given some minor changes in 1733 and 1741 and were ship size specific, not across all rates. For example the 50's and 60's were changed slightly in 1733, but not the others. The 70's became 64s in the 1741 proposals is another example. Armament changes took place in that heavier guns was one of the desired end results. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Michael, With the information put together by Danny V, I am not sure a book of tables would be worth publishing. Something to be said for paper, but Danny did a fantastic job and I'm not so sure there is anything to add to that mix. Something to think about I suppose, but not sure it would be a good investment. Allan
  8. allanyed
    Wayne, Michael and Tom, I have a copy of the 1745 Establishment dated 5 August of that year signed by Allen, Lock, Ward, et al. It is 41 pages long, and was what I used for the appropriate columns in the scantlings book. It is available for purchase through the RMG Collections web site. It does not give sizes of the lines, but it does include sizes of masts, spars, and tops for 100 gun down to 24 gun ships. The 1719 Establishment is also available. It is dated 11 November 1719, 42 pages long and also available from RMG collections. Allan
  9. allanyed
    Jaager Thank you for the recommendation on The Scantlings of the Royal Navy 1719 - 1805, BUT -----> Tom, unfortunately I did not include any rigging information in the book as neither Steels Elements, the Shipbuilder's Repository nor the Establishments gave any rigging information, at least that I came across in my research. That said, Lees gives all the dimensions one would need for British vessels, but he does so via ratios or proportions that lead back to the mast diameters and even hull dimensions. It is a long road to travel to get to each line's circumference. He also gives a series of charts with the masts and spars dimensions for various periods so all calculations can be made and I presume will be as accurate as anything else other than specific rigging charts for specific ships if they exist. It would be far easier to have a set of charts for the various periods and vesssel sizes rather than having to do all the calculations, Hmmmmm, wonder if such a little book would be of interest...... Allan
  10. allanyed
    Nice blocks on the Wooden Boat Builder forum! Still don't know that these modern blocks are representative of contemporary blocks but I agree, seizing stropping for scaled blocks that small may be an adventure that is too much to ask to take. I just looked at some photos that I took of models at Preble Hall and there is no seizing on the strops that I could zoom in on. Allan
  11. allanyed
    Brian The photos are super, shows very neat work. Questions ---> shouldn't the stropping be seized the entire length as shown in figures127 and 128 in the drawings Popeye posted and is tarring the stropping standard? I always thought the stropping was left untarred but now, I am not so sure. Thanks again for the photos! Allan
  12. allanyed
    Mark, IMHO, soft solder is great for circuit boards, wiring and plumbing. For ship modeling silver solder is easier and stronger for what you want to do. The last thing you need is to be rigging your model and have one of the ears pop off when tensioning a line. As said above, jig the pieces together and/or use several different melt points of solder. If you do go with silver, paste is really easy to work with versus chips of silver. Having done both, I stay with the paste on small parts. Good luck Allan
  13. allanyed
    Can you post a photo of your ghost sails? This is a new one for me and I am curious about what they look like. Please give a name that we can use to address you properly. Thank you very much Allan
  14. allanyed
    My understanding is that one end of the lanyard is attached to one of the hearts with an eye and after running through both eyes an odd number of turns, the other end of the lanyard is half hitched to the last two loops going through the eyes. I recommend getting Volume IV of the Fully Framed Model series by David Antscherl as he describes this area as well as all other areas in good detail and would be very helpful to you. Allan
  15. allanyed
    Messis Are you asking how the lanyard ties the two together? Are they open or closed hearts? Allan
  16. allanyed
    Julie What kind of wood is the planking? Thanks Allan
  17. allanyed
    Mike The first three drawings below are redrawn from Congreve's Treatise on the Mounting of Sea Service Ordnance, 1811 and is found on page 382 in Caruana's The History of British Sea Ordinance Volume II. The top is a gun run in. The middle is a gun run out and secured, and the third is a gun run in, secured and housed. The breeching is not detailed in these but two versions are shown on the last two pics which can also be found in The History of British Sa Ordinance. Allan
  18. allanyed
    Found this book for free on the net today about the HMS Centurion (60) . HMS Centurion 1733-1769 by Shirley Fish. I just read a few pages and it looks to be a good read. She spent four years researching and goes into explanations on her build to the 1719 Establishment and then on to her adventures at sea. It is available on Kindle for about $4 so I will probably get it to read in more comfort. Google the book and author and it should come up. Google.books.com Allan
  19. allanyed
    Johann For the linen, what thread count did you use? There are cotton fabrics with very high thread count that may be closer to scale. Regardless, your work is of the highest quality. Allan
  20. allanyed
    Bill, At that scale, I would think the English dimensions would be workable and un-noticed if not exactly correct by even experienced modelers. Lees gives the following information on page 168 of his Masting and Rigging English Ships of War 1625-1860. I paraphrase -> The lower yards had three rows of trucks and the others two rows. Except for the sprit topsail and topgallant yards, the length of the ribs on the lower parrels were one and a half times the diameter of the diameter of the yard. For the sprit topsail and topgallant yards they were twice the diameter of the yard. The depth of the ribs was equal to the diameter of the trucks, and the width of the ribs was a quarter the diameter of the trucks. The trucks' diameter was one fifth the ribs length on parrels of three rows and one third the length of parrels of two rows. The length of the trucks was one and a quarter times their diameter. Hope this is of some help. Allan
  21. allanyed
    Mark Fabric glue may work, but I would worry that the bolt rope would start to part after some time. The fabric glue is a great way to hold the rope in place while the sewing is done, so a good idea one way or another. Thanks Allan
  22. allanyed
    I would really be concerned about glued bolt rope parting from the sail. Any good luck from anyone out there just gluing and what glue did you use? No CA Please. I would feel much better using micro thread of some kind even if does wind up not being noticed. Lagartun, Benecchi, Wapsi and Roman Moser fly tying threads come as small as 0.028-0.033 mm diameter which is smaller than 1/4" at 1:48 scale. Maybe a tad large for 1:96 scale. Is it worth the trouble? If it secures the bolt rope better than glue, maybe....... The problem I see with this fine thread is a needle small enough to stay close enough to the edge of the sale without tearing out the edge or leaving relatively large holes that would be unsightly. Allan
  23. allanyed
    Walt To what scale are you building? One source of very fine material is fly tying thread available where such fishing materials are sold. They come in different sizes and many colors. Allan
  24. allanyed
    The silk span sail article was quite detailed and brought a whole new perspective to me on sail making. Never in a hundred years would I have thought to use my CAD program and printer as part of sail making. Even if one is not using CAD, the description of making the actual piece of sail itself was very informative. Allan
  25. allanyed
    The pictures deserve much higher praise than just a "like" check mark. Beautiful- something to be very proud of. Allan

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