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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    Thanks again to everyone for the compliments and likes. I will try to post more pics when I return next week from traveling on business. No golf and no ship modeling for over a week, the withdrawal systems are already cropping up! Allan
  2. allanyed
    Phill, I have sent you a PM Allan
  3. allanyed
    Thank you Omega, and to everyone for the "likes", it is very much appreciated. Deck planking and bulwark stanchions came next. Once the bulk of the deck planking was complete the stanchions were made and glued in place. They are shown clearly on the isometric drawing so it was pretty clear on how they looked and were placed. Deck filler pieces between the stanchions was a hassle, but time and patience work wonders. Allan
  4. allanyed
    Phill, Scratch building the boats is actually a fun mini project for many of us. There are plans available for a lot of ship's boats at the NMM collections site. You can probably use some of those as guides for making accurate representations of the Bounty's boats. Details on "how to" make these can be found on this site and several books using the plug/frame/planking method. It has worked well for me for many, many years. Allan
  5. allanyed
    Next up is the deck framing. The mast steps were added before hand. I did plank the trunk cabin as I had considered furnishing it at that time. The lodging knees were only added where the deck planking was left off for viewing. Allan
  6. allanyed
    Thanks folks. Feels good to be working on Effie Druxey. I have been researching 1719 Establishment 50's as well as quietly building the Gjoa for about 6 months as there was a deadline so I have not been totally idle in our model building arena. This is a fun build, but I am at an impasse on the Gloucester steering wheel. My lathe is down and out until it gets replaced or repaired so I am looking for a good way to make one. Even at 1/4" scale I have not found a solution to date. I am wide open to suggestions. I just need to make one good one using any materials that work then can make a mold and cast a few in pewter but so far all efforts have been rather poor. As small as the metal ring is, I am looking at trying some stiff card stock and brass rod next. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Chuck, If you are going to fully rig those guns, I know a place to get really fine small blocks. Beautiful workmanship throughout! Allan
  8. allanyed
    Thanks Patrick, fire away with any questions. Scale of the build is 1/4" to the foot. I inserted the L.O.C. drawings in TIFF format into Turbo Cad as they had the best resolution. It was then easy to take the drawings up to full size with the CAD program using the scale on the drawings and then scale down to 1/48. More photos from earlier on in the build follow. The first is framed with keelson and deck clamps in place. The second shows the hull planking partially sanded with a "window" to show the framing. Planking is poplar. The color of poplar can vary but as it was later painted, it was of no concern. Some Plastic Wood filler was used before final sanding and painting, mainly at where the planks were not a perfect fit at the rabbet. With painting, I did not feel the need to be quite as careful as I would normally be when I am not painting the hull. Allan
  9. allanyed
    The frames are doubles and the framing plan is quite detailed on where they lie on the keel. The isometric drawings were a big help in framing the stern area and the bow area. I used poplar for the frames. After planing to the proper thickness I glued two sheets of wood together with the grains running at 90 degrees to each other. The frame drawings were printed on label paper then adhered on the laminated wood sheet and cut out on my scroll saw. I am no draftsmen compared to Wayne K, Druxey, and so many others here. I downloaded the plans from the L.O.C. in TIFF so was able to insert them into my Turbo Cad drawing with very high resolution. I then used the body plan to make the frame drawings, including the frames between the stations. It was just a matter of dividing the space between the body plan lines at 5 or 6 points along the curve then using arcs to draw the frames. Not necessarily the way they did them in real practice, but it worked out well with minimal fairing needed. The keel was marked for each frame location. The square assured the frames were set at 90 degrees verically in relation to the building board and 90 degrees to the keel horizontally. Spacers were used between each frame to maintain spacing and to give some rigidity. Allan
  10. allanyed
    I wanted to build a schooner fully framed and found as detailed a set of plans as possible for a Gloucester schooner on the US Library of Congress website. I started building the Effie M. Morrissey (renamed in 1948 the Ernestina) about 3 years ago and have been back and forth on her as a couple other projects intervened. The building sequence is nothing unusual, starting with the keel, stem, and stern post, which are made of Costello Boxwood. Note the angled piece under the keel. This was temporarily glued to the bottom of the keel so it would stand at the proper angle during the framing process. The frames were hung at ninety degrees to the building board, not the keel. This was shown clearly on the drawings although hard to see in the photos. Next up, framing. Allan
  11. allanyed
    Hi Mark, Why does it need reblackening? If it needs this after a few years I would be worried about what happens once the parts are on board the model? Have you tried a pickeling solution? I don't know that it would work on the blackened pieces, but I find it the best method of cleaning brass before blackening as it takes off any protective coating, finger oils, flux from silver soldering, etc, and leaves a microscopically etched clean surface that blackens better than any other method. Might be worth a try. Allan
  12. allanyed
    Alan, The sharpening jig is a must IMHO. I would never attempt to sharpen my chisels without using it again. I did not see a mention of stropping above. I know many feel stropping is also something to consider, but honestly I am hard pressed to see a difference between going right from my 6000 grit water stone to the wood, versus stropping first after using the stone. Maybe I am not doing the stropping correctly. I use the dressing that came with the strop, but don't see much difference, if any. Regarding the tissue, I use it between planks more than any other method, but for the scarf joints on the keel I add a dot of black water base paint to a little puddle of carpenter's glue, mix it thoroughly and it shows the same as the paper on the finished joints. Plus, the paper can be a weak point, straight blackened glue won't be. Just another route to get to the same destination. Allan
  13. allanyed
    Alan, I like how you clamped the keel to a steel rule to make sure the entire length winds up dead straight from the start. I will remember this technique in the future. Allan
  14. allanyed
    Mike, I am really curious to see how it goes from this point to laying the prefab deck into place. Can't say that I have ever seen a complete planked deck fit in place this way. With the round up and sheer, are you concerned about these two bends being problematic? Allan
  15. allanyed
    Just as there are no two faces that are exactly the same across the 7.4 billion of people on this earth, (even in identical twins), no two people have the same amount of patience for a given task. Even as one person, I have varying amounts of patience, attention to detail, and different attitudes as to what is good enough. I did not realize this until the Admiral asked how I have the patience to spend years on a model yet have less than 10 seconds of patience with the guy driving too slowly in the passing lane on the highway. Allan
  16. allanyed
    Ed, As always, it is joy to follow your builds. Just a small FYI, I have been using holly for the frames for the various ship's boats and they bend very easily after being submersed in water for a few minutes. It works for even those frames where the moulded dimensions increase at the floor rather than just having the same moulded dimension the entire length of the piece being used to make the frame. In the end, this increase in the moulded dimenion at the floor is barely noticeable at the smaller scales, but can be done if desired. Allan
  17. allanyed
    Giorgio I have made one to six trips a year to Italy for the past 30 year, mainly for my job so I had to learn to speak a little Italian as a result. I think there are more cab drivers in Firenze and Milano that speak English than in New York though I may start a log on the Effie M. Morrissey as I do not want this to turn into a hijack of your log. I really look forward to your progress on the rigging. Allan
  18. allanyed
    Giorgio, My copy of the SAME BOOK arrived this past Monday!!!! Che coincendenza! I found it on line for US$6. I am experimenting again with making blocks with internal strops. The method seems to be very good for large sizes, and OK for small (1/8") blocks. If I can perfect it a little I will take photos and post. Ciao Allan
  19. allanyed
    Ciao Giorgio Finally went through your entire building log. Well Done!!!! What are you using for rigging plans, including block and rope sizes and belaying points? This is always a sore point with me as I cannot find a really good single source. Chappelle has several Gloucester vessels' block lists, and most plans have sail plans, but I have not found a good set of drawings showing the run of the lines right down to the belaying points. Chappelle is a huge help, but a royal pain to use as each chapter is alphabetical from anchor to windlass. Even with the many great details he shows, it is not complete as far as rigging. Ciao Allan
  20. allanyed
    SOS I just went to the RMG Collections site and in the search line I typed compass. They indicate over 2000 images are available. Attached is the first one I found for the 18th century with a compass bowl of circa 1720 and the card being circa 1760. I am sure you will find more in that file. Allan
  21. allanyed
    To add a bit more, when spiled and pre-bent to the approximate bend of the hull shape, the planks will stay in place using any aliphatic (carpenter's) glue after a minute or less of holding it in place tight against the bulkheads and adjacent plank with light finger pressure. The planks were normally about 30 feet long so even at 1/4 inch scale that is only about 8 inches long. PVA glues such as Elmer's white glue is not a great way to go for planking, in my personal experience. Don't forget to bevel the edges of the planks as needed, both for inside bends such as near the stern and outside bends elsewhere. I know "as needed" is not very definitive, but the amount of bevel varies along the length of the plank as the curves of the frames are dynamic. I also agree with Duff that trennals are great for added strength, especially using bamboo, but tough to make to scale below 3/16". Allan
  22. allanyed
    Wes Please keep in mind I was referring to contemporary drawings that we had purchased from the NMM, not modern drawings. If we had only had "modern" drawings we probably would have defaulted to the original contract, then the tables, and probably not considered the drawings very much for dimensions, Allan
  23. allanyed
    JCF, Thanks for the reply, much appreciated. Chuck, Brass shim stock can be found down to 0.001 at McMaster Carr, (and probably some other places.) I think they still have one of their DCs not far from Exit 8A off the NJTP so could be will called or at your shop in a day or 2 if shipped. Allan
  24. allanyed
    Wes, I have absolutely no experience with US ships other than Gloucester schooners so cannot comment with any authority.. I suspect, there were ship designers and shipwrights from England or trained by British designers and builders, thus may have followed practices from England. If that is the case, I don't think you would be far off in using the scantlings in the book. Keep in mind, if you look at contemporary drawings of British ships, there may be differences in the drawings from the scantlings, including Establishment scantlings. When Wayne Kempson and I worked on the Euryalus project he was continually finding differences in the scantlings between the drawings, the contract, and Steel. We defaulted to the drawings, then the contract, then the scantlings in the tables. The differences were minimal and hardly noticeable, if at all, in a model, but there were differences to be sure. I know this is not really answering your question, but I would feel safe using the scantlings Allan
  25. allanyed
    Russ, Very nice! JCF, the time to make these is indeed long, but not the problem. Making them so they are consistent in appearance across 50 to 100 blocks is my problem. I am looking for ideas that others may have tried and wound up with blocks that looked as they should, even at the smallest sizes. Chuck, couple months probably. Thanks to all Allan

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