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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    Ron, I am in agreement with Jud, Gun ports on the QD, forecastle or even in the waist, had no lids. The bulkhead and cap rail indicates that this is probably one of those areas. Lids in these areas would serve no purpose, so the money would not be spent to put them (or anything else that is not needed) on most ships. Allan
  2. allanyed
    Dallen As mentioned by Druxey, the country and era would help a lot. If for British ships, there is quite a bit of information available. The 1719 Establishment gives the depth, thickness, mention of hook and butt construction of the main and channel wales and also the thickness and number of diminishing strakes above and below the wales. The Shipbuilders Repository (1788) and Steel's, Elements of Naval Architecture (1805) give the height of the lower edge of the main wales at the stem, dead flat, and after timber as measured from the upper edge of the rabbet for all rates. It also gives how broad, the number of strakes and thickness. It gives distance from the upper edge of the main wales to the lower edge of the channel wale in midships as well as the thickness, etc. of the channel wales. They also give thickness of the strakes above and below the main wales. All of the above dimensions can be found in Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships. Allan
  3. allanyed
    Ed, You continue to bring smiles to many faces here at MSW, not to mention a high bench mark for all to reach for. Is there a future home already determined for this beauty? Next time someone asks for a definition of museum quality on one of the forums here, I will respond that they should look at your build log as a prime example. Allan
  4. allanyed
    Hamilton, Any scratched fishing schooner build and I am there. Love those vessels and watching you delve into the dark side is a treat. Keep up the great work. Allan
  5. allanyed
    Chuck You took what many find to be an overly complicated adventure and showed that it only takes a little patience and commonly owned tools. Cudos Allan
  6. allanyed
    If you are a premium member on Linked In, you can send an in-mail to Chris as he belongs to Linked In. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Charlie Fiddler's Green is a broker, and a very good one IMHO, but be aware that the owner does not have the models in his place thus cannot take more pictures if he does not already have them on hand. He may be able to put you in touch with the model builder though and then the model builder hopefully can help you out. Good luck Allan
  8. allanyed
    Rather than just painting the copper, and alchemy aside, can you measure and draw the piece you have, then use the drawing as your guide to make the piece from wood? If you can post a picture of this piece to give an idea of what you are trying to copy I am sure you will get some useful responses. If you are just wanting to paint the copper a wood color, be sure to clean the copper with acetone or some other solvent to be sure there is no mold release residue still on the copper and maybe even give it an acid bath to give a little texture to the piece before painting. As to painting itself, you can mix some paints to try to match the surrounding wood on the model. Not sure what paint would be appropriate to go over copper though. Making a wood copy would probably take no more time than treating and painting the copper and no worries of paint chipping off. Allan
  9. allanyed
    Thanks Messis I got curious and did a little digging on Viking ships construction (see picture below) and metallurgy. They certainly appeared to have copper, iron, and other metals, so maybe it was copper. I would bet on wood, but that is just a guess, nothing more. Based on the drawing I found, the piece in the photo you posted looks like the mastfish in the foreground. Sorry this was probably of little help, but I find it interesting none-the-less. Allan
  10. allanyed
    Messis The kits are not always accurate in many respects. I have seen a number of them where the decorations and moldings are metal as well and those were not made of metal on the ships. These are the areas where a lot of folks go into kit bashing and replace such parts with pieces they make themselves. I am curious about what ship/kit you are building. This may be a simple matter of Amati using the wrong term. I was under the impression most, if not all, Amati and most other kits were plank on bulkhead, thus it would not be possible to put in a keelson. The false keel under the keel makes sense to me but I cannot picture a keelson which goes on top of frames. Allan
  11. allanyed
    Had no idea you were going through this. I truly hope all is going to turn out well for you! Lots of good thoughts and prayers from me for you. Allan
  12. allanyed
    Terry These are not very good clamps and yes they break easily. I threw them out years ago. Check out Et Tosti's log on the Naiad. If I remember correctly he shows clamps that he has made. Better, pages 213 to 218 in volume I of his book on the Naiad shows how to make some excellent clamps for all types of situations. Allan
  13. allanyed
    Ed, Just one of our new neighbors in the avatar photo. Keeps away pesky solicitors. I like your idea on the rigging box, especially with the removable sides. I will be staying tuned. Allan
  14. allanyed
    Thanks Ed I have not done so since our move to Florida, but in NJ I had the roll on a metal pipe attached to a wall in the basement. I ran down the paper to the floor and out when I needed a large shot, them rolled it back up. Couple diffused spot lights were used to minimize shadows behind. For a long session I took it outside and shot midday with a north light. Pain in the neck but only done now and then. No shadows to worry about. For photographing small objects I built a photo box from a corrugated box with most of the top and the sides cut out then and covered with a nearly transparent paper to allow in diffused light from simple spot lights. The back "wall" and "floor" were set up with a piece of the back drop paper and mini studio resulted. The opening was about 18" X 18" so small and light enough to put up on a shelf when not in use. I don't remember where the idea came from, but it worked nicely. Being cardboard, it did not survive the move, but it was a simple project. You are the point on the clipper where none of these would be convenient, but I trust you will find a way! Allan
  15. allanyed
    Nils and Ed You can buy rolls of backdrop paper in white, black, grey, and many other plain background shades. I usually tape the top of the sheet as high as needed on a wall, then roll it down and onto the floor and let it run out 5 or 6 feet with a wide radius where it goes from vertical to horizontal. Photos below show what I mean on this. Allan
  16. allanyed
    Bob, I think most of the members that have been here more than a few months are aware of who Druxey is, but it's good that he has been officially outed. I would much rather address him by name and had nearly done so a dozen times over the past few years. Thanks for doing this project with him. Allan
  17. allanyed
    Dave Your hull is absolutely lovely but your shop are is far too clean. If my admiral ever saw the picture you posted I would never hear the end of how it IS possible to have such a clean work area. To the subject at hand. For schooners that I built I have been giving the hulls 5 to 6 coats of sprayed Minwax gloss poly. I personally prefer a semi gloss or even less shiny finish but I was chastised by a client years ago that the hull looked dull and they wanted a shiny finish. Eye of the beholder and all that. If spraying, I find that many light coats is better so there are no runs or orange peel effects. I rub the hull with Scotch Brite pad between coats. Allan
  18. allanyed
    Mark are you using English/European boxwood for the decks or Castello? The more yellow European box would be interesting to see. Allan
  19. allanyed
    Keith Have you contacted the Mary Rose Museum? They have a website that is pretty extensive including contact information. From a photo of a model at NMM I cannot see a cat or a fish davit, nor an opening where a davit would come through the hull, unless the gun port opening was used for this purpose when raising the anchor. Allan
  20. allanyed
    Pat, I have no idea if this can lead to help, but there are a couple photos of a model of the Endeavor in the area of the ship's boats and spare spars beneath them in James Lees' Masting and Rigging The caption says the model was made at the NMM and rigged by Lees, so MAYBE there is someone there that can get you answers. There looks to be a top mast amongst other spare masts or spars but that is about the only thing I can see. This is an interesting subject for any vessel. I went through the 1745 Establishment page by page and it gives the dimensions of the masts and spars for the different size warships, but I found nothing there on spares to be carried. Same for the Shipbuilder's Repository, nothing on spares to be carried that I could find. I hope someone has an answer. Allan
  21. allanyed
    Druxey, Sorry to jump in on Jaxboats detailed explanation. My understanding from WAYYYY back when I worked in the paint industry, the paint referenced above is thixatropic. If it is agitated, sheared or otherwise stressed, the viscosity drops temporarily. It will thicken up again when at rest and of course it will dry if left exposed to air so the vehicle (water and other solvents) evaporate. The brush is shearing the paint which is causing it the thin, thus flows more readily. This is a rather basic explanation, I am sure there is a lot more detail that can explain how and why the physical properties change temporarily. I THINK some or perhaps most modeling clays are thixatropic. As they are kneaded they are more easily worked, at least in my experience. Allan
  22. allanyed
    Karl, You made my morning a good one as I went through your entire log once again. It is a joy to follow your build Allan
  23. allanyed
    To Philly777 What's plegaliston? What's your name? I quit use tools for plank bending and never looked back. Once the plank is cut to shape (spiled) it is soaked for a while in my "fancy" soaking device (piece of 1" plastic pipe with a cap on one end) then bent to shape and heated over a hot rod (soldering iron) or with a hair dryer (if she is out of the house) while being held in the bent position until dry. If you are using strips from a kit, you can still do the same thing for bending but will have to edge set each plank. Allan
  24. allanyed
    Julie, When the time comes, look at a thickness sander. It will take strips or narrow sheets down to any thickness would could possibly need and is accurate to a couple thousandths so repeatability is good. I have a Byrnes and it has served me very well for quite a few years now. Allan
  25. allanyed
    Julie, The one thing that sort of jumped out at me is that you have no chisels listed. GOOD quality chisels from about 1/8" wide to upwards of 1/2" wide and good quality sharpening and honing pieces are indispensable at times. Not so much for the planking, but for many other things. Allan

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