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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    Sorry to hear what happened to you. One should never glue down the planks while they are wet. The results are what happened for the reason you gave. You can wet the wood and then pin the plank in place and let it dry. After it completely dry it is removed and then reset and glued in place. There is no fix for this except maybe filling, sanding and repainting. Allan
  2. allanyed
    Thanks Brian, I appreciate your response very much. Allan
  3. allanyed
    Hi Alexander I sent an email to your wizard using Google Translator and he responded VERY quickly with how to find more information on his tools. Now I have to go look and do more translating, but he is definitely willing to add anyone to his client list. It may take some time to figure what I need and to get the details on pricing and how to do a transaction, but for those interested, he seems happy to have new clients. Thanks for sharing the information on contacting him. Allan
  4. allanyed
    Chuck, Your photos have once again given me the one reason I miss living n NJ, that is attending a meeting and seeing Cheerful in person. Love the traveler rings. Looks like a rod in a tube then shaped, soldered and blackened. Close? Your Cheerful shows big vessels are not the end-all to having an impressive model. Allan
  5. allanyed
    Pyshrynk (Try sharing your name, real or made up, it may get you more responses) Blue Ensign is right. Even if you find a good book on rigging, and there are many, being a lazy person will not be conducive to making the most of them. Being incompetent is not forever, it goes away with trying and practicing. Being lazy, that will not get fixed by the membership enabling your problem Spend a little time on the search feature on this site, that's why it is here. Allan
  6. allanyed
    Hi David, Great intro, you brought a smile to my face. Know that we are all here to help in anyway we can. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Thanks Dave. I do look forward to using a wooden jig such as you have shown, but cut down as you mention you did recently. Allan
  8. allanyed
    Dave, I really like your locator board to hold the deadeyes in place while the shrouds and stays can be turned around them. I see you have not yet done so, but would it be easier to make the shroud and stay cross overs and apply the cross seizing if the top of the jig was even with the top of the upper dead eyes. That way the crossovers and seizing would be above the jig thus easier to make. Page 42 in Lees' shows this area in a drawing better than I am sure I am explaining it. Allan
  9. allanyed
    I pin anything possible, even if no finish is applied. Stanchions, gun carriages, pedestals, &tc are all pinned. I use bamboo pins made with a draw plate and cut them as needed. If I have already applied a finish, be it paint or anything else, then have to glue a part, I use a small chisel to scrap the surface to get back to the wood before gluing. Allan
  10. allanyed
    Great to see you back in the fold Remco. MANY of us are looking forward to seeing new photos of your work! Allan
  11. allanyed
    Dafi, Your post got me looking into it as it would be a great find. I saw the 12 page article by Gareth Cole that was very interesting and he uses Rivers' information as part of his article. One of the most interesting charts Cole gives are the age ranges for gunners on a number of specific ships. I hope you find the source for River's writing and share. If I find it, I will be sure to post it. I sent an email to the National Archives in the UK asking if was possible to get a copy. To get to the Cole paper, Google gunnery notes from William Rivers cole.pdf Allan
  12. allanyed
    Barbara Hopefully the following will help. I inserted the drawing I found on the net into Turbo Cad and scaled as close as I can then came up with the dimensions I show. The drawing was too small to be able to see the dimensions they already show for some of the planking, but the numbers I show should be very close. Not knowing the scale you are building to I put real world dimensions but you can easily figure out what they are in your scale and see if the kit supplied properly thicknessed planking material. Allan
  13. allanyed
    Maurice, VERY clever intro to your name (assuming you are referencing the music) As it is 43 years later I am sure Steve, Ahmet and Eddie would be happy. Based on the planking expansion drawings I have seen, for a two to one at the point of the drop, the top plank would normally run short, but the underlying one would continue to the stem. For a three to two drop, the "arrow" the butts form would point forward, not aft. Check out David Antscherl's tutorial on this forum. Overall, looks like a nice job on the 2nd planking. Can't say that I like the open grain of the wood they provide but sometimes one must work with one has been handed in the kit, same as in life. Happy New Year Allan
  14. allanyed
    Mark Ed has some very good drawings on making the simple screw clamps, flexible screw clamps and planking clamps like you see in his build logs in volume I of his Naiad books on pages 215 through 218. Just one of many great things to be found in his Naiad books. Allan
  15. allanyed
    Glenn, All tutorials are still here, including planking. Allan
  16. allanyed
    I usually grasp the wood with a folded piece of sandpaper between my thumb and finger but resort to pliers now and then. The sand paper gives better control. Everything else Russ said as well...... Allan
  17. allanyed
    Mike Good luck and happy New Year Allan
  18. allanyed
    Mike, I did some digging and cannot find any single addition, only the two volume set, but they can be purchased separately Most of the models I see on the forum would make Volume II the most useful, but I have been digging into a ship that would require me to have Volume I if I cannot find the information elsewhere in my small library. I really hate having to see the admiral rolling her eyes if I mention the need to buy another book related to ship modeling. She does not buy into the argument that I keep using that it is an investment Allan
  19. allanyed
    What's your name? I hate to be rude and have to address you as a blank space. Regarding your concerns about not having tools to spile -----. An Xacto or scalpel, maybe a $10 coping saw, a pencil and some card stock and paper is about all you need. What tools do you feel you are missing? Allan
  20. allanyed
    Nice buck mount on the wall!!! Allan
  21. allanyed
    Mike Because a 24 pounder could travel that far does necessarily mean it was allowed to. If it recoiled 17 feet those opposite a hatch would wimd up down on the next deck. Look at the sketch I posted earlier. That shows 15 feet of travel on a deck that carried 24 pounders. These cannon never come inboard enough to use the tools without going through the gun ports. Allan
  22. allanyed
    What would be achieved by doing this? Models that are over 200 years old are found all over the world and seem to be in good shape if cased in air. Light and "critters" are more of a problem, me thinks Allan
  23. allanyed
    Dafi I don't know about copyrights in Europe but in the US it is for the life of the author plus 70 years if published after 1978. If prior to 1978 it is 95 years. It was published about 1995 so still protected and I assume not available for free. I have volume two and it was worth saving up for. Allan
  24. allanyed
    Hi Ed Did you make the lap, then pre-assemble, then drill the holes so they are perfectly aligned. I see the cut in the top of both the rim and the cross trees. May I assume the rim is upside down for the photo? Thanks once more for sharing. Gorgeous stuff! Allan
  25. allanyed
    Mike, I think Russ means the bore length, not the bore The handles of the tools had to be long enough to reach into the entire length of the bore plus have enough length for a sailor to hold with two hands. With the gun run all the way in, there was not enough room to get the tool into the barrel unless it was taken outside the hull, presumably through the gun port. The sketch describes it better than I can put in words. The gun has a 9 foot barrel and the beam is 40 feet on a 70 gun ship of 1706. The handle of a tool is shown extending outboard of the hull. Allan

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