allanyed
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Please add me to the "I just found it too" list. Great job Tadeusz. Allan
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Launched in 1756 - July 10, 1778 HMS Lively (20) (Gibraltor Class) got lost in the fog and wound up in the middle of the French fleet near Brest and was captured. I did a little search on this ship and she had quite a busy life. Wound up being recaptured by the British and finished her 28 year career in 1784. Allan
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Gaetan Your posts bring a smile to my face. Brilliant work! You show nine carved pieces to fit in the small carved pieces. Were there many that wound up in the scrap pile in order to get the nine good ones? Of all the woods you have tried for carving, what are your favorites? Sorry if you commented on this earlier in the log, but I had not seen if you had commented before on this. Allan- 728 replies
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Great presentation on what could be a fun project on its own. I can see something in the lines of a 1/12 scale or larger for a nice desk display piece. Beautiful work Greg Allan
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Welcome to the fray! And yes, please do post the display case building using the old door frame materials. Allan
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Ship lettering
allanyed replied to piperck's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Chris What vessel is your model? For the actual British ships and many other nations the lettering was painted, not carved, if you want to stay with what they did in actual practice. There may be exceptions, but I am not aware of them. There is a great little treatise on page 50 in Volume II of TFFM by David Antscherl. The lettering normally followed the curve of the planking of the upper counter so the letters all lie at slightly different angles so stick-on lettering may not look right. Allan -
Determining thread size by model scale
allanyed replied to David Goulden's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Hi John, I looked at your practicum and would like to say that is very nice work that you are sharing with everyone! I noticed that the blocks in the photos look to have metal external stropping which I have not seen before. I thought the blocks on BN2 were internally stropped so am I correct in thinking that's what the kit offers? Thanks again for sharing your site information. Allan -
Determining thread size by model scale
allanyed replied to David Goulden's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
David, Chappelle in his American Fishing Schooners book gives a list of line sizes for running and standing rigging for several schooners. There are typically about 10 different circumferences which are more than would be noticeable at your scale. Also, keep in mind color. If there are to be wire stays and shrouds these will be different than manila or hemp in color. Two sizes of standing and perhaps three sizes of running rigging would be a good compromise to using all the sizes found on the real deal. Wire rigging for the Grampus for example was from 2 1/4 to 4 1/2" circumference. Running rigging was from 1 1/2" to 4 1/2". I imagine the Blue Nose will be in the same neighborhood of sizes. I totally agree, err on the side of being too small. For me, the proper methods and neatness in installing the rigging is far more noticeable than the actual rope size unless it is obviously too small or too large in circumference for a given line. Allan -
Ahhhhhh, now I get it Glad it's Friday....... Allan
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Greg, The Byrnes saw is top of the line, but thickness of the planks can still vary. Check with a micrometer or good caliper. A thickness sander is a great way to get the sawn planks to an even thickness +/- 001. If your kit supplied wood sat flat, I am sure it is not the glue thickness, at least not as much as you show in the photo for the cypress. Could be cypress (first I heard of using cypress for planking) could be a lot of things mentioned here or a combination. Again I would measure your planks; thcknesses first, then check that your bulkheads are fair. If you still doubt the glue, any aliphatic should be OK. That is what the majority of members here use I'm sure and it does not cause problems with the planking laying unevenly. Allan
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Hi Carl, You mentioned a plastic kit so am I correct to assume PE is polyethylene? If that is the case, using Blackin It on plastic is a new one for me. Never knew that worked on anything other than brass, copper and bronze. Always something new and interesting here :D Both HDPE and LDPE rate in the mid range for resistance to acetone. No problem with resistance to acetic acid or alchol, but I have doubts that vinegar, which is usually 5 to 18 percent acetic acid will etch polyethylene. Allan
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Hexanol I do not think there should be eye bolts in the sprit either. Allan
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Holly for the decks is my choice in most cases, but poplar serves well if clean pieces without the green often found in it. Aspen is about like polar but I find it cleaner in color. Lowe's used to carry Aspen rather than poplar. If you use holly, be sure it is white, not greenish which happens when not cut when the sap is down and kiln dried immediately after being cut into billets, or so I was taught. Some of the wood experts can expand or correct if I have it wrong. Allan
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First naval engagement US versus British
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Wayne, I will not argue with you as I have great respect for your knowledge and library. Just picked that one up off the internet and as we can see, we should not believe everything we read on the internet. Thanks for the correction! I hope their parade and celebration was a really fun time! Allan -
June 11, 1775 the American sloop Unity engages and defeats the HMS Margaretta in Boston in the first naval engagement between the Americans and British. Allan
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Sam, I got curious after seeing your post. I found the attached by Jean Jerome Baugean in the US Naval History and Heritage Command Collections website. The first is when she was schooner rigged. This drawing is from 1806. The next is a sketch of her Brigantine rigged in 1812. The last is a print from an engraving based on the sketch made in 1812. Allan
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It seems there are as many suggestions for a vessel or type of vessel as there are responses, thus the problem. There may not be enough buyers for a company to invest in designing and putting together the plans and materials for a kit. Scratch building opens up the door to hundreds of vessels, but there are the downsides - more tools (toys for grown ups) more space. Back to the positive side of scratch, there are some top wood and parts suppliers now so one can put together a kit of his/her own, including blocks, cannon, deck furniture and more. That is really just one step past kit bashing so maybe another solution to the problem. It would also give the builder a project to build a vessel that has not been done a thousand times before. Just some rambling thoughts that I had. Allan
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Amy, Please post some photos and any information you might have on the particular ship. That might help get some responses for you. Allan
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Making Shackles my way…
allanyed replied to Thanasis's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Thanks for taking the time to make this presentation. It never ceases to amaze me how many talented members with ingenious ideas that we have here at MSW. Allan -
cleats, ring bolts and belaying knots
allanyed replied to jray47's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Ray or is it J? Page 161 of Lees Masting and Rigging has a drawing showing how to secure a line to a ring using a fisherman's bend. Allan -
Gregor What was the real world overall length of the Jacinthe when rigged? Thanks Allan
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Robboxxs You are right, the compound that was used and called brass in Lavery's Arming and Fitting was, as he states, more akin to bronze with 85 to 90 percent copper with portions of tin, zinc and other metals. Bronze is typically made with 12 percent tin and some other metals including zinc. Brass is an alloy which is primarily copper and zinc rather than tin as the main secondary metal. Allan
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Pandora by marsalv - FINISHED - 1:52
allanyed replied to marsalv's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Marsala I hope you don't mind a bunch of questions so here goes. Did you etch away material around the monogram so the monogram itself is raised? Any details you can share on how you made these would be very much appreciated. Were there any problems with the CA holding tight during or since the blackening process? What blackening solution do you use? Sorry for all the questions, but your cannons are extremely fine and I for one would love to know more. Thanks Allan -
Don I am not sure about Spain, but the English were converting to iron, at least on large vessels, before 1650. Cost of iron was 1/4 the cost of brass, or less, and the Royal House was in fact cost conscious so liked the idea. After all, it was the Kings Navy. Lavery gives a good history of and reasoning for and against the conversion in his Arming and Fitting book. Allan
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SOS I have visited Pearl harbor and the Missouri, several subs such as the Ling, the USS New Jersey, USS Texas, the Intrepid and a few others. While I enjoyed the visits and can see a museum ship or two, they are a huge waste of money IMHO. I agree that truly historic vessels would be great to keep and see such as the Wasa, Victory, USS Missouri and a few others but how many is too many? Jud, As far as mothballing and being available to re-activate, they are out of date well before they are set aside and could never be brought up to modern design and armament standards at a reasonable cost. The new vessels are stealthy so the old designs would never be able to meet that criteria. Better to re-use their steel and build from scratch with the latest technology than try to make a silk purse from a sow's ear. I served and am very happy to have done so, but it was the people, not the steel that I remember most of all. I would enjoy having a few beers with old shipmates far more than taking a tour on those ships Just one man's opinion. Allan
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