allanyed
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Not hard to find these terms on the internet and once a bit of time is spent, easier to remember :>), BUT --------------- Let in means the beams are cut down 1/32" where the thicker planks are to be laid so the tops of the planks are flush. Save yourself some trouble, IF YOU WANT TO, and use the same thickness planks , 1/16". Only you will know they are not let down into the beams. Standing proud means the thicker planks will be seen as higher than the thinner ones, and yes, would be a tripping hazard. Allan -
Whale boats..... If they are monomoys or similar, the tutorials will surely help. You may be able to get information from Mystic Seaport such as drawings and photos. The internet is chock full of plans and photos, a few of which are attached the last being a whale boat being built for the Morgan Allan
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Caulking deadwood
allanyed replied to DocBlake's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I do believe if it is not directly exposed to water as were the hull or upper decks, there would be no caulking. The deadwood was covered with planking down low and inboard higher up thus not constantly exposed to water and thus not caulked. I bow to any more knowledgeable members if I have misspoken. Allan -
Anders, If the boat is hung from stern davits, the length can be figured out pretty closely as the rings to which the falls were attached in the boat would probably be spaced about the same as the davits. Drawings of boats showing the rings can be found in a number of books including Lavery's Arming and Fitting, W.E. May's book, on ship's boats. From there an approximation of the overall boat length can be determined. A cutter or small pinnace might be appropriate and plans can be found on line at the NMM collections site. I am not near my books, but W. E. Mays book may be a help for design as well as some scantlings appropriate to the mid 19th century. I just did a quick search at NMM collections and found a number of cutter drawings including a 23 foot from 1852. These are not high res when downloaded but most are 1/24 scale so should be clear enough to work with. Google National Maritime Collections, then in the search box near the top left type cutter or pinnace and a list of drawings and pictures will appear. Click on them one at a time and the drawing comes up and when you scroll down below the drawing, a write up including date of the drawing can be found. Hope this is a help. Allan
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British 'Termagant', 1780, ship-rigged Sloop - Info?
allanyed replied to malachy's topic in Nautical/Naval History
Michael, I do not know the image size per se, but I can tell you once down loaded (and do it as soon as you receive it, there is a time limit of a few weeks I believe) and inserted into Turbocad or other drawing program, you can enlarge it to your heart's content and it as clear as can be. As an example you can enlarge it enough to measure the width of a pencil line. Faint notes, erasures and more, can often be found that you may not be able to make out on a paper copy. Well worth the price IMHO. Allan -
I suspect the model kit industry is like many others. No one single factory makes everything, but rather assemble parts made by others. Autos down to model kits. You can find Michelin tires on many brands of cars because the auto companies cannot afford to make tires themselves. It MAY be the same with kits. Someone has the dies and casting tools and know-how to make a lot of pieces so the kit assemblers go to them for parts. This may be totally off base reasoning, and is just one deduction from one person....... To avoid poorly made parts, it would be better to make them yourself or go to a quality supplier of parts, such as Syren. Allan
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Richard The planks did bend to the extreme, but they were not just straight pieces of wood forced in place. Spiling each plank was necessary to give the right shape that could then bend properly. A planking expansion showing the shape of each plank before they are bent will give you a better idea of what I am writing. If the attached is not clear, this picture and several other expansion drawings can be found on the National Maritime Museum collections site. When the site comes up, in the search box type planking expansion. Allan
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Vince I agree, the timber used was probably local to the yard where she was built. Oak is likely, but pine was not unknown for some smaller vessels. Regardless, I think most model builders agree that neither of these will do for models as the grain is too noticeable. Mahogany is worse although it does have a beautiful color. Costello, fruitwoods such as pear, holly, bass and poplar are probably the most mentioned woods. Check out the forum on woods and you will get a good education based on experience of many members. We all have our own personal preferences and there is no single "right" answer. Traditionally, British contemporary models were mostly built with English or European boxwood, but it is extremely difficult to find and very expensive. For the tree nails, there are choices here as well, but working a dowel down to a 1 inch to 2 inch diameter (scale) in even 1/4" scale is a huge waste of wood and probably difficult if at all possible to do. Bamboo split into slim strips and a good quality draw plate such as from Jim Byrnes to round them to the right diameter will serve you well. There are many discussions on this site about treenails (trennals) that will guide you as well. Please do start a build log and as you show your work and questions arise you will surely get help from many members. Allan
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Brian, If the hawthorns there are like in the U.S. they bear little apple fruit like crab apple trees. As it is a fruitwood, it may be a good wood to use as many fruitwoods such as apple and pear make great carving and other model building materials. I hope someone has experience with this wood tpo share with you as you may have a nice store of wood available. Allan
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How to make a flag? (edited by admin)
allanyed replied to michael101's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Michael The ensign is secured to the halyard at top and bottom corners of the flag. The halyard usually has clips (modern) or eyes spaced to match the height of the ensign and the ensign has grommets or some such at the corners. The halyard reaves through a sheave at the top of the flag staff and keep in mind the halyard is a continuous loop. There is a cleat near the bottom of the staff for tying off the halyard. If the ensign in the kit is paper, you may be better off to replace it with a cloth flag so it can be rigged, not glued. Allan -
Cathead Thanks for the Don Troiani reference. I Googled his work and thoroughly enjoyed browsing his American Civil War works. Allan
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Britannia, July 4, 1840- She took the age of sail and 6 week crossings down to a fortnight with her steam/paddlewheel propulsion system. Samuel Cunard and his daughter were on board along with 117 other passengers, 89 in the crew and 3 cats to keep the rats in check. Allan
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HMS Leopard by gobi71 - 1/300 scale
allanyed replied to gobi71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Quite remarkable Gabriel. The more I think about trying to work on such a small scale, the more I procrastinate, and will probably not have the eyes needed by the time, if ever, I decide to go ahead. Thanks for the photos and sharing your work. Allan -
John Make friends with your barber/hair stylist or have your lady make nice with hers and try to get an old pair of their scissors. They may or may not need to be sharpened, but will then last you a lifetime of rigging. I got a free 5" Joewell K2 shear this way. Allan
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Don Based on the photos with the cloth and thumb and the next photo, I am guessing the sample in your photo is less than 100 thread count material. Have you tried it with finer cloth such as 600 or higher TC or other materials such as Silkspan? Allan
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You are probably OK to use Brogard's proportions of 1716 wherein the total length is 25 15/16 X the caliber. Yes, the lengths did vary in many cases for the same caliber, but for your project this should work. All proportions from Brogard are on pages 92 and 93 of Lavery's Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War It may also be somewhere on the internet but I could not find it. Allan
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Question about stoves and how the rotisserie worked
allanyed replied to Modeler12's topic in Nautical/Naval History
For those that want to read the patent on the Brodie stove see the attached. Spelling is as it appeared on the patent..... Allan Brodie Patent.pdf -
If I had to choose one, I would go with TFFM IV. If I were to choose two, I would also recommend Lees Masting and Rigging. English Ships of War 1620 to 1860. Lees can take a little time to get used to as he covers such a wide range, but once you home in on the appropriate year, you can size everything with good accuracy. Allan
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JB Sorry for the miscommunication, my mistake. I meant that the MODEL planking should have no gaps. I imagine these would be tough to open as you describe on a model. I have used pencil and tissue methods. The tissue is indeed less subtle than the greyish pencil. I suppose using grey tissue in place of black would be a good alternative to those who prefer this method and want a bit of subtlety. Allan
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I just read the chapter 26, the addition to the original volume IV which deals with making sails. This chapter alone is worth the price of the book. The details are incredible and are presented in a way that all of us can make realistic sails that are "to scale" in all ways. The difficulty in making to scale sails for popular building scales has been discussed on this site numerous times and is one reason many builders, myself included, do not like making sails. That has now changed, at least for me. Allan
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Chuck, Interesting idea, but my first thought was why would there be cracks between the planks? They should be tight against each other. Then I thought that if each planks has a slight chamfer on the edge, this will leave a gap for the aluminum. The hard part though would be getting a perfectly even gap on every plank. Do you have any photos you can share? This idea is a bit intriguing. Allan
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Pasanax It may be too late for your current model, but the edges of the planks need to be tapered so they fit properly. Do a search of this forum and you will see it has been brought up in the past and there are sketches of what I described in words. If it was me, I would remove the planks and start again, but that is just one opinion. The caulking lines would only be the width of a piece of tissue or paper which is described in the planking tutorials, and the gaps you show are quite a bit more from what can be seen in your photo. Allan
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Jerry, Before the introduction of train tackle, the running (out) tackles were unhooked and used as train tackle when needed. The use of the tackle as train tackle depended on whether the guns were on the lee or windward side. The hooks facilitated this action. When separate train tackle came into use, it would be used as necessary to hold the leeward guns in place during reloading so the running tackle was no longer needed for this purpose. At this point, the running tackle hooks were often moused so they could not be easily unhooked. This means they were maintained in place when the guns were fired, not unhooked. An interesting note is that the breech was not in a straight line, but dropped down to a ring on the carriage that was lower than the ring on the bulwark. This added a lot of friction to slow the recoil. The above is from Volume II of Caruana's English Sea Ordnance. Allan
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Umeckt Try contacting them directly, they would be your best source. Info@corel-srl.it I love what you can find on the internet in 2 minutes. Allan
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Just noticed this thread picked up again. If it matters after all this time, I used to use materials from Micro Mark and it was no problem, but then changed to Polytek in Easton Pennsylvania as they specialize in resins and silicones and are experts in the field.. You can discuss your project and problems with them and they will suggest the proper product. I do not have any materials on hand right now so cannot tell you which one I used. Relative wall thickness is important. Better thicker than thinner.Allan
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