allanyed
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I am away from my books so did some digging on the net regarding gun powder barrel dimensions. Was there a standard? The only thing I found so far is from The British Powder Cask by Len Heidenbrecht, 1998 The exact dimensions of the powder barrels is a bit of a problem, for in 1779 it is reported as 16" at the bulge and 30" to 32" long, making a tall thin cask. This seems to change by 1813 as it is described as 17.36" at the bilge and 21.62" in height. The author does not state his source in the article I found on-line. IF this is correct, at 1:24 the barrel is only a little over 5/8" maximum diameter. A 1:24 scale barrel surely can be done, and it sounds like Jaager's description should work. And, I will probably want to give this a try down the road. But, for others why not chuck a piece of dowel in a lathe or drill and file/sand the shape. The top and bottom can be recessed by carving out a bit of wood and staves can be represented by scribing lines with a scalpel or hobby knife blade. Any thoughts out there on what easily acquired wood or other material would work to represent the withy? I am thinking slivers of bamboo, but holly that is soaked in water is super flexible and might work as well. Thread or maybe copper wire that is painted a light color might be easier to twist together than wood to represent the sticks of withy. Allan -
Welcome to MSW Roger You might consider posting a little intro about yourself in the New Member forum. Note that you have posted in a threat that is 10 years old so it may not get a lot of notice. (I hope I am wrong😀) Consider starting a build log in the appropriate place with photos of your dilemma. Good luck in your endeavor. Allan
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Hi Kerry Did you make your own launch and/or cutter and jolly boats that Bounty carried? The reason I ask is that in looking at photos on-line at this kit the boat that is shown looks more like a pinnace than a launch and the her scantlings are pretty far off from those based on contemporary information. Allan
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Further to Glenn's post on the breechings size, which is spot on, the following may be of interest, if even only as a guide for rigging guns. Allan
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Funniest thing posted here (other than the Jokes forum) in a long time. Thanks for the smile. Druxey, I have not doubt whatsoever that withy was the standard. But, why not copper or lead. Cost?? Thanks Allan
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3D cannon barrels
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
The below is the one that I have had made so far. Note that the trunnions for this particular time period are tapered. Barrel 111.3mf -
Hi Mark, What type/size of barrel/cask and what era? Gunpowder, meat, water, etc? Allan
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Take a look at some planking expansion drawings. There are several of them on the RMG Collections site, including Squirrel. You will see the shape of the garboard very clearly. While this is for a ship, it applies to a boat as well. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-83495 I believe there are some on the WikiCommons site as well and may be in high resolution. Allan
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3D cannon barrels
allanyed replied to allanyed's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Thanks Druxey As with most, if not all, members here, I have gained so much knowledge from others, including you, this seems like it might be a useful way to say thanks. I truly hope someone takes me up on this opportunity. Allan -
I realize it is very easy to say when it is not one's own money, but assuming the second layer is the open grained brittle walnut or faux walnut many kits provide, you might want to consider setting it aside and getting some good quality wood for the second planking such as Alaskan cedar, castello, Swiss pear, holly et al. If you are going to wind up with the yellow ocher, black wales, and copper bottom, the wood color is not as important as the quality and ease in which it can be shaped. Basswood, or even poplar, which is cheap by comparison, is easier to work with than the crispy walnut some kit makers include. Allan
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What??? No cutters or yawls? 😀 Your boats do indeed look very nice! If you do make a lapstrake like a cutter, you will need to be very careful to taper every strake so each one ends at the rabbet rather than the middle of the boat. With the carvel build this is covered with paint so not so noticeable but is a different story with lapstrake planking. Planking boats pretty much uses the same principles as planking the ship so is not a difficult endeavor. Thanks for sharing your work with us. Allan
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I have done one 3D drawing with help from a member here of a cannon barrel based on English design circa 1690. The results were excellent and the parts that resulted were cheap. A project to consider: 1. I stink at 3D 2. I am somewhat proficient at 2D 3. I have Caruana's book on RN ordnance which has drawings and specs for a few hundred year range 4. I would be happy to draw and provide 2D drawings of all barrel patterns and lengths up to and including the Blomefield pattern in four views at full scale. 5. I would like to work with someone who is willing to spend the time to convert these to 3D in STL or similar format that can be used by a 3D printer. 6. These drawings could then be posted as a collated collection, hopefully in the articles database here at MSW for all members to use to get barrels printed that are era and pattern specific, accurate, and inexpensive. Please PM me if interested in working together on this. Thanks!!! Allan
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Totally agree with Glenn. For the future maybe consider 3D printed barrels in black resin. If you provide a 3D drawing at full scale, the printer can adjust his equipment to any scale you want. If you are using Blomefield pattern guns the ring on the cascabel will be cast as part of the barrel although at tiny scales, the ring may be problematic for some printers. Printed barrels are usually about $0.50 each or thereabouts so not a huge investment if you want to give them a try. Allan
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If you have a hair dryer in the house, it works almost as well if turned on high. The downside is you need to make sure it is yours, not hers! Hot air guns have a higher end range and usually come with a variety of tips that are more useful than the hair dryer attachments. Allan
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Hi Native One, You may be absolutely correct the OcCre Diana is one of the Spanish Mahonesa frigates. I have no contemporary based info on Spanish ship's boats so have no idea what they actually carried, but two boats seems to be too few. As OcCre is a Spanish company, it would make sense that they offer the Spanish Diana rather than the English or Danish Dianas Allan
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Hi Native one, Mahonesa was a Spanish thirty-four class if I am not mistaken. I have no idea what kind of boats Honorat de Bouyon used on the ships built at Mahon including this class, but will assume that Ancre has it right for a Spanish ship model. Ancre states they carried two boats which seems light. HMS Diana carried at least four, probably five or six. For RN boats two great sources based on contemporary information are Lavery's The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War and the spread sheet of boat types and sizes for various rates and years in The Boats of Men of War. Hopefully there are similar sources of contemporary information for Spanish ships. Allan
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Try soaking them in water for an hour or so then follow the methods you are using again. I find it easier to use a cheap hot air gun than an iron. Just be sure the temperature is set so it does not scorch the wood. Mine has 7 settings. The hot air is easier to maneuver than an iron. Allan
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Kerry Congratulations on your new book! Allan
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If she is racing the cowls would likely be turned away from the wind to take advantage of the more aerodynamic shape than have the scoop, capped or not, facing the wind. This is just a guess based on VERY limited racing experience so hopefully other members with some racing experience can clarify. Allan
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Those are nice drawings Native One! The only problem is that Diana would not have carried a longboat nor a barge. Longboats were replaced with launches well before 1794. A 38 gun frigate of 1794 would probably have had five or six boats including a launch, a pinnace, two cutters plus two smaller boats based in information from May's The Boats of Men of War. MOST details can be shown although the frames would be more easily done if simplified. Contemporary plans for hundreds of different boats can be found at RMG Colletions as well as on the Wiki Commons site and detailed scantlings based on Steel, circa 1800 can be found on line in May's book, used copies of which can be found for under $10. https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/SearchResults?isbn=9781861761149&n=100121503&cm_sp=mbc-_-ISBN-_-used One example of a 25 foot cutter can be found at https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86819 Allan
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Hi Lucien The build log I referenced is a scratch build at 1:48 scale and is based on the contemporary plans at RMG, scantlings from Steel, and notes from Bligh's papers which does not seem to be the case with the kit you mention. Allan
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About 15 years ago I bought a Simm Comfort 1971 copy of David Steel's The Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture for $150. Within a year or two I found a second copy for $100. I waited a year and sold one of them for $300 if I remember correctly. It is now going for over 750 pounds and there is one at Abe Books for over $1800. I bought a few books from the NRG when they closed their library 10 or 15 years ago and one of these was The Shipbuilder's Repository which I still have and use that I bought for $100 and is now going for over $400. Not only can these be extremely interesting and useful, they turned out to be a great investment. Even newer books can do this. Volume I of Euryalus 1803 went to over $200 (sold new at $80 a couple years ago) when it went out of stock at SeaWatch books. Allan
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Cumulative error is the bane of many a ship modeler. You are definitely not alone. Allan
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I would verify every detail for many kits. There are vintage photos of Bluenose that you can find on-line to confirm if there were funnels or any other features in the kit that never existed on the original. It is possible, perhaps likely, that kit maker used modern information without checking provenance so some research by you may be in order. In the end the research can be very satisfying, and for many, it is fun as well. Allan
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I suspect there are a number of ways to get to the end. I am not sure what the width of the rail that rests on the top timbers was on this ship, but assuming it follows the 1719 Establishment dimension of 8" what lies beneath, be it framing and/or just planking, needs to be less than 8" (2mm) Tough scale to work, so kudos to you for working at it! Allan
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