allanyed
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Everything posted by allanyed
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Have you considered resin printed barrels? I paid $12 for 18 barrels in two sizes of barrels to the 3D printer I found on line where-in I supplied a 3D drawing of the barrel shape that was appropriate for that particular era. Took a few days but they came through with no problems. Allan
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Hopefully the odd title will attract some attention and an answer to my question. A question was asked regarding coppering between the false keel and keel on Euryalus (36) 1803 so I did some digging and found very little except the following from a contract for two of her sister ships, the Astrea and Curacoa. It is relatively clear, except, what the heck is tuning up copper? I know the term as used in a musical instrument or a fist fight, but not in this case. Note that the instructions to use tar and hair in the scarphs was struck out in the contract. The False Keel to be of one Thickness 6 inches thick, to make the Main and False Keels together 1 feet 5 inches below the Rabbit, to give Scarph to the Scarphs of the Main Keel to be laid with Tar and Hair, and sufficiently fastened with Nails and Staples. The Sides and Bottom to be filled or sheathed with Copper and to have thin Copper put between the Main and False Keels all Fore and Aft properly tuned up and fastened, the labour to be done by the contractor.
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Hi Tim Sorry if I am being dense here but I really do not understand why there are notches in the keel. The keel was 3 3/4" square at midships (0.156" = 4mm at your scale) and tapered to 3 3/8" X 3 3/4" at the stem and post. Is it to help locate where the frames go? That makes sense, as in the end the floors will be hidden from view anyway. Looking forward to the next update, thank you kindly for sharing your work with us. Allan
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Rio Congrats!! Am I correct in assuming you do not have a scroll saw or coping saw to cut them out yourself? I am pretty sure there are a number of folks here that will be interested in knowing how you do with laser cutting, including number of bulkheads you will be getting and total cost. Will you be using your paper plans or will you redraw them first? Thanks in advance. Allan
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
allanyed replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
So far, so (VERY) good!!! Just as an FYI, there is no margin line on any transom other than the wing transom. The margin line has to do with strip of molding that covers where the lower counter planks and hull planks meet. Allan -
Thwarts, knees and benches in place. Allan
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Andrew If you want to scratch a boat, there are several build logs for a 23 foot launch that may give you some ideas. The methods can be applied to any boat and there are a lot of boat plans on line at RMG and the Wiki Commons site but if you are looking at boats for your Bounty build, these will apply. The one below is centered on the launch which Bligh used. modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/ If you are interested in the plans PM me. Allan
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Looks like a takeaway from a torture dungeon 😀
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
allanyed replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Don't forget to keep the margin line, which is about 3 or 4 inches, on the aft face of the wing transom, flat. Allan
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I remember seeing the intersection of branches and trunks, and roots at the stumps used for knees and the like but training bends in trees for frame parts was a new one for me. How on earth did they do that with an oak tree? For model size parts, apple orchards prune every year and have thousands of branches that are miniature versions of what the shipbuiilders harvested from the forests in full size. Pear and cherry would also work well. Not so sure about citrus. A few months in a dry basement or a day in a kiln then cut away to your heart's content. For smaller scales I found this to be tedious beyond belief, but for large scales like yours, it might worth the effort. Allan
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Hi Chiomp What about the deck rounding? Decks other than the platforms and orlop were rounded as much as 9 inches depending on the deck and size of ship rather than lay flat. Allan ..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................Don't the bulkheads have rounding where the decks lie?
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Syren. I would add rope as well as it looks like rope rather than thread. Allan
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Looking for correctly scaled lines and rope
allanyed replied to Michael Smith's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Do it before the striped bass start heading your way in the spring!😀 They caused me many a missed day in the ship model shop (and work) when they got down the shore. Allan -
It is very nice to see you continuing to amaze us in 2023!! Happy New Year Tiziano e per favore porgi i miei migliori saluti alla tua famiglia (please give my best to your family) Allan
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And another case where someone needs to find and bring out the WABAC machine Or find George and get his machine up and running.
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I agree Druxey, but then again there is a lap joint on the foremost thwart on the pinnace drawing ZAZ7192. Posted below but may be better to go to the RMG Collections to see it more clearly. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-86983 Of course the drawing does not mean anyone actually built it that way.😀 Allan
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Alan, I read your post twice then paused then burst out laughing!!!! Made my day with a smile that will last for hours. Allan
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Thanks everyone! My apologies but I don't think I was very clear, thus any confusion is my fault. It was hard to see on the last plans that I posted so the below may be of more help. I doubt that this has anything to do with proof diagonals. Again, I should have been more clear to start. The below is what is shown on plan ZAZ7651. The side bench obviously sits on the aft most thwart but does the side bench sit on the transom bench or does the transom bench sit on the side bench? Unlike Craig's great drawing, the original plan shows two dashed lines as below which makes no sense to me. It could very well just be a mistake, but even if that is the case should it be as Craig shows above or the other was around, or possibly as on the contemporary Medway model, flush. Thanks again Allan
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Very happy to see you return to the fray Aiken Allan
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OK I am game. A sketch would really help if you can. I am definitely missing something here. Ahh, a new term which was totally new for me. I get the batten or even a lap joint as shown on ZAZ7192, but was this always a grating or could it also be a solid platform of planking? A grating would look "grate" and a challenge to make. Many thanks gentlemen. Allan
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A couple more things have popped up about which I am unsure. Ref: below plan. ZAZ 7361 has two dashed lines at the aft benches which was pointed out earlier. This is impossible if they represent one bench resting on the other bench as shown for the side bench and aft most thwart marked A. Assuming (usually a really bad idea_) the side benches rest on the after most bench, what is supporting the after most bench? The clamps for the thwarts are shown but no clamp or other support is shown for this bench. I have drawn in a small piece that would act as a clamp Even more confusing for me is the forward most platform at area B. It is shown on this and other plans as butting up to the forward most thwart. The clamp does not extend far enough to support the platform pieces that would be running athwartships. If the platform planks run fore and aft, beams and clamps would be needed but then I cannot reconcile the design where the existing clamp is located. I have made an attempt at a design in this area shown in magenta on the drawing below. Any input is appreciated. Allan
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
allanyed replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I admire both your workmanship and courage in nearly starting from square one Peter Allan -
Perhaps speak with whoever had the sense to throw it to the curb. He may have it right, but then again, if monetary value is not a concern, perhaps to story behind it may have some value to share with friends and family. Allan
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Yeah, it is a bit smaller😀 This may help give a little perspective. Allan
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Hi Tim. I notice you have not marked the width of the strakes on the frames. How are you going to be able to know the strakes are the right width at each frame if they are not marked before hand? As you know the width is dynamic so if you do not taper the widths as needed there will be problems later. At your scale, probably every other frame should be marked. Tick strips are the easiest way to go. There is a detailed explanation in the Articles Data base here at MSW in the paper by David Antscherl. https://thenrg.org/resources/Documents/articles/APrimerOnPlanking.pdf I like your clamps. Allan
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