allanyed

Hi Mark, These are photos of the construcion on the full size replica, but I guess you can call them a build log from NMMC😀 There are 56 of them which Tim emailed to me. I have them saved in a file on the hard drive and a flash drive and can reference them at any time so if the website goes down the photos will not be lost. I do appreciate the heads up though and I thank you very much! Allan

I am convinced as well. With the shapes of the aft stations it makes total sense. Thanks guys Allan

Tim, I began studying the photos and it pointed out something that I had wondered about. On the replica the planking aft does not go onto the aft dead wood as would be found on such boats in the first plan below, (a 23 foot long boat) which is far less square aft. Comparing the lines, it would be nigh impossible to have the planking bend smoothly onto the dead wood on the launch. The short story is that I am pretty sure I did it incorrectly on the launch IF the planking does not go onto the deadwood aft. I will be starting over for the third time but that is not a terrible thing as it has been a learning experience every step of the way. If I am incorrect and, based on the body plan, anyone thinks the planking should extend to the deadwood, I would love to hear from you. Allan Lines of the 23 foot launch below Below is the replica launch.

Hi Tim, Thank you very much for the photos. Their version looks very nicely built. I see a number of variations from the contemporary plans and would love to find out why they changed to something else. Do you have contact information for the builder? It would be great to learn from someone that has actually built a full size replica, The below might be a little help regarding scantling terminology. Hopefully I got all of them right and there are other members that can add more to the picture. The one that I question myself is the gunnel. The scantlings call for thickness and depth. On the gunnel I would have had the dimension marked D as thickness (T) and the thickness (T) marked B for broad. Allan

Incredible work! Have you, or would you, consider doing a little YouTube video on your techniques or perhaps a video the moderators can use to add to the Articles data base here at MSW? Thanks Allan

Getting both holly and casello box in the US is not TOO much of a problem, but I have no idea for the UK or EU. Alasakan cedar might be a great substitute or Swiss pear. Allan

She's a beauty to which many/most of the rest of us aspire. Allan

TINY bits of tape make sense. Just enough to hold things still but not make it hard to remove the planked hull later. I use holly for the frames and planking and Castello boxwood or Swiss pear for everything else. I imagine basswood will bend as easily as the holly. Allan

Making the planks was easier than a ship as the planks are less than an inch thick. I used thicker material so there was enough material of sanding when the planks were all in place. I made the planks the proper width with the taper needed, then soaked each in distilled water (I don't trust the chemicals in tap water or mineral water). 30 minutes was more than enough time. I then clamped one to the form where it would eventually be glued and then dried it with a hot air gun. Once removed it holds its shape. The following shows the frames and first two strakes of planking. I found that using slats had one disadvantage, keeping the frames centered on each one. Care had to be taken when gluing on the planks not to move the frames off center. I had a mishap with one, but removed and replaced after the hull was taken off the former.

Thank you for catching this. I mistakenly show the scantlings from the plans and again from Mays book for the post. The former is now the only one shown as the May scantlings are a compilation of many sources. Where I could, I used the figures from the plans only. The keel is 3 3/4" square midships and tapers slightly fore and aft just as was done on the ships themselves. The post tapers as well. I always use the scantings as first source and drawings second if a dimension is missing in the scantlings. Regarding the terms, which ones do you need? I labeled some of them on the drawings as a help. Regarding the photos, my email address is in my profile, so send any and all that you wish. I REALLY appreciate this. Allan

Hi Henry, This seems about 100 years too early for jackstays. From David Lees' The Masting and Rigging British Ships of War 1625-1860, page 159 1811 Introduction of jackstays on the yards. Allan

Very happy to see you join this motley crew at MSW Tim Allan

Tim, If you have more photos than you think should go on this build log, PLEASE go to my profile and email any and all photos and other information you think are important. We can decide together what may be of interest on the log. 😀 I am curious already about a few things in the photos, including the breadth and number of strakes of planking and the stem thickness. They do not look right based on contemporary scantlings but it may just be the angle of the photos. Allan

Hi Tim Based on scantlings for a 24 foot launch in May's book and a contemporary drawing CHN0132 at RMG of a 23 foot long boat from Venus 1758. I found the planks need to be more than 6 inches and less than 10 inches broad. The scantlings I show above are based on measuring the arc of the outside of the frames, not the arc of the former plug. The only way to be exact is to use a tick strip and measure the length at frame 0 when the frames are in place and then divide by the number of strakes, in this case 8. 7 strakes would also work, it is really up to the model builder. I used 8 in order to have the breadth of the planking between 6 and 10 inches. Note that May does not give the breadth of the bottom planks, only the upper strake and landing strake, but these should serve well as guides. Every model may be a tiny bit different so the scantlings should be a guide and tick strips used to get the actual breadth of the planks below the landing strake for your own model. For the replica, I would LOVE to see it and hope you take and post lots of photos! 😁 If there are 14 strakes, they would be in the neighborhood of 4 inches broad. They may be correct but I have my doubts. If they are, it would great to ask them if they can share their sources. Allan

Craig, Typo on my part regarding the tops of the frames. 1 7/8 is correct as you mention and on the list of scantlings above. Allan Great idea, but does the material cling to the frames thus making gluing the keelson, risiers and other items to the frames problematic? Thanks for your continued help! Alaln

Sorry Druxy, but I am not sure what you mean. The following is a cross section showing the keelson and bottom boards that I drew (post #1) Along these lines (forgive the pun) Mays gives scantlings for footwaling. Is this the same thing as the bottom boards? A larger pic of my cross section follows: Thanks!! Allan

All things considered, what you have achieved so far is very impressive!! Will you be planking the second later the same as the first layer? The tutorial on planking here in the Articles section and the Chuck Passaro video on planking are a tremendous help for anyone wanting realistic planking on their model rather than what some kits propose. When it comes time to build the launch that Bligh used (he did not use the jolly boat, it was rotted through) consider taking a look at the build log on making this launch yourself. https://modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-by-allanyed-bounty-late-18th-century/ I look forward to your next post Allan

Frames in place on both types of forming blocks follows. The frames are made of holly which bend like paper when soaked in water for 10 minutes at smale scales. A few of the full frames did crack while being bent over the form, but extra material had been sized so not a big problem to replace these. I had experimented with other woods and poplar works nearly as well if thorougly wetted for a half hour or so. The guides on the solid plug MUST be thinner than the frames to avoid having the hull glued to them when gluing on the planks. The drawing of the individual formers follows and available for anyone that wants it in whatever scale they prefer if downloading from here does not work out so well. I use a spacer block under the plug, but cut indents for the slat formers which are glued directly to the building board. The top of the frames is marked on each section. Several have been marked with the plank line. There are 8 strakes of planking to bring the width to the scantling figure of 7.5" at station 0. These and the balance of pieces can be marked later as would be done on the ship model itself with tick strips to get the proper taper of the planks. Full frames set in place. NB: I found that the planked hull came free of the slat style former more easily compared to the solid plug. Removing from the solid plug took some jiggling and a few scary moments. The moulded dimension of the frames is more than the futtocks which taper down to 1.5" square at the head of the futtocks. Shaping these is a bit of a chore but not difficult. In practical terms, with the keel, planking, keelson and footwaling covering the floors, the frame material can be 1.5"X1.5" the entire length and the floor moulded dimension will not really be noticeable. Builder's choice.

Love it Craig. I debated with myself on the construction of the frames. The floors being separate from the futtocks as you show is more realistic, but I settled for something easier for most builders with a minimum of tools and smaller scales. If I were doing this in 1:36 or 1:24 I would cut out the floors and frames as you show and as seen in Frolich et al. Allan

Lyle, The model is looking really nice! I realize the launch on your ship is a kit conception, and not to steal your log, but for the future, if you or anyone is interested in this little vessel from the Bounty a lot has been discussed here lately at MSW in the Plans forum and maybe check out the following build log if you wish. modelshipworld.com/topic/33539-23-foot-launch-bounty-late-18th-century. Allan

Your photo needed more than a simple "like". Great pic!! Allan

Craig, After double checking I made the edits on the scantlings and drawing. Keep 'em coming, I really appreciate the help. Regarding the davit, my original design was based on the follow, ZAZ7145, the yawl as you pointed out. I am still not sure which is more appropriate but as ZAZ 7355 is a launch, I am going with that design as shown below. Anyone building a yawl might be better served using the AZ7145 design. There were a lot of questions that arose as this project moved along including the spacing of the frames. I used the station lines from drawing for the location of the frames. Note that there are far more frames than usually seen in ship's boat models. The first style of forming plug that I have used is based on what I originally found in Frolich's The Art of Ship Modeling. The thickness of the plug pieces is the same as the room and space. NB: The plug designs were drawn so as to be the inside of the frames not to the station lines on the body plan which are the outside of the frames. Alternate forming plug, using 1/8" plywood, which is easy to find and does not require thicknessing the plugs.

I can attest to this situation being hair raising. Happened to us when we were out in our boat fishing for striped bass one Spring morning between Sandy Hook and the Verrazano Narrows Bridge. We were out of the shipping lane that comes down the Raritan Reach so we just sat ---- untl we heard thunder. We pulled anchor to run for shore. Which way??? The compass showed us our heading. (Of course the GPS made it even easier😁) Still a scary situation.

Good catch, thanks!! What you show is how I have done this in the past but then I saw this version elsewhere. Time for some isopropyl to remove and redo. It will all be covered, but may as well get it as close as we think it would be. Thank you for your input, it is very much appreciated. Allan Scantlings.pdf

David, You would only be dumb if you have a question and fail to ask it. For me, it seems we too often forget to ask those questions or do even a modicum of research before plunging ahead. Ask away!!!! Allan