Jaager

As long as we are exercising a fantasy, Faster growth means wider rings, does this not affect density? A GMO may be unnecessary and more likely to yield form over substance as a product, which is what advertising and wishful thinking gets us now. . I think it makes for a higher probability of success for someone far in the future if lots of lands was set aside for the arbor culture of Buxus simpervirens cultivars that grow straight and tall, and are not palatable to aphids, chomping insects, fungii, in an eco environment with mixed species to discourage the establishment of Buxus dedicated persistent parasite populations. The time necessary until harvest makes close attention to growing conditions uneconomical. More likely would be Bush Hogging the weeds every 5-10 years as all the attention. it gets. Otherwise, it is plant and forget. However, looming just off stage : a probable environment higher in CO2 and warmer in many regions. Plants that like that will grow faster and for a longer part of the annual period. This may reduce the density. Unfortunately, milder winters mean that pest species will be culled less and others will migrate from warmer climes. If all that goes well, just wait a couple hundred years and we are set - presupposing the coming system changes leave a population able to utilize the wood..

My copy is just here. From paging the book, Wow! If any details were missed, They have to be microscopic. A truly magnificent tour de force. Gerard, What's next, Old Son?

Bob, I have not read that one before, but it seems to reflect the reality of the situation, if not the actual cause. Buxus sempervirens seems to have been loved to death. The imp on my shoulder prods me to make a glib answer = for enough Buxus to provide frame timbers for a large scale multi deck vessel, a Wayback machine is probably needed. I recall reading that Harold Hahn had acquired a supply. But he was mostly 1:96. The strength is helpful in the miniature or semi-miniature scales, fur suure.

I run with the following scenario : prior to 1860 and commercial petroleum, tar was obtained from conifers, with the Baltic region being the major supplier. It is closer to dark walnut dye than 0,0,0 black. A serious coat on standing rigging and a light coat on running rigging. Hemp and later Manila hemp fibers are not white to begin with.

Bill, Dogwood trunks are sort of small, so getting sizable billets is difficult. It is among the hardest domestic wood. The color is good, grain excellent. It would work for everything, if it could be had in large enough pieces. It is in the elite group for carving, knees, breast hooks, posts, cat heads, other fragile parts. I have some from a relative in Caroline Co. . If I had easy access, I would gather as much as I could. It is probably not well known, because it is so difficult to obtain. Two others you may run across, that are worth the effort = Honey Locust and ornamental Pear (street plantings) (Bradford here). But for me, Apple is king.

When the time comes that you do the masts and rigging, the NRJ reprinted the following, I think Dutch, 19th century book in at least 19 parts LE COMTE: PRAKTIKALE ZEEVAARTKUNDE PT. 1 EDSON,MERRITT NAUTICAL RESEARCH JOURNAL 1974 20 170-182 MASTING RIGGING 19TH DUTCH The CD for volumes 1-40 should cover it. It may be more germane than English or US texts. There is also a reprint that may be still available covering ship building close to your subject in its region. VORLEGE-BLATTER FUR SCHIFF-BAUER 1835 KLAWITTER,GUSTAV D HORST HAMECHER KASSEL 1978 SHIP BUILDING I grabbed what I could of reprints, when available figuring that the window was a narrow one - this being well before PDF.

Unless I am mis remembering PLANK ON FRAME MODELS VOL.1 & 2 1958 UNDERHILL,HAROLD A BROWN, SON & FERGISON He shows how to form up for soldering and removing the alignment surplus AMERICAN FISHING SCHOONERS 1825-1935, THE CHAPELLE,H I W W NORTON CO NEW YORK 1973 Has drawings of the actual hardware in the appendix only guesses for a general how to. The following are from my Amazon wish list from recommendations here Model Building with Brass Hardcover – March 27, 2012 by Kenneth C. Foran Jewelry: Fundamentals of Metalsmithing (Jewelry Crafts) Hardcover – September 15, 1997 by Tim Mccreight The Complete Metalsmith: An Illustrated Handbook Spiral-bound – December 31, 1991 by Tim McCreight

Robert, It is my experience that a bandsaw is more useful and safer than a table saw. Your 4" table saw should suffice for anything specific to that type of tool. A 10" table saw is ready to eat your fingers given the least chance. My 10" Ryobi table saw has a larger foot print than my 14" Rikon band saw, so no advantage there. You do want 220V for a band saw and $60 bimetal or $200 Resawking for the blade necessary for resawing - ouch! Rather than weighing, Amazon has inexpensive moisture meters. Unless you open a saw mill, close enough should do for accuracy.

Robert, Your wax covered - hope that the moisture level when hermetically sealed was below what a fungus requires. Unlike Holly, the fungus that eats Apple really turns it into poop. I am guessing that pen blanks are about as costly per board foot for a source of wood as can be had. Turning blanks could be just behind. 2" of a relatively hard wood like Apple would be a chore for a 10" table saw. A Byrnes saw can come close to 1" - depending on the blade. Cutting thick stock would likely require several passes even before you flip it. The blade - low number of teeth and carbide tips with enough offset to produce a cost inefficient kerf. ( Your location is a fairly populous one, no? You should be able to find someone with a 14" or larger bandsaw - with a resaw blade [carbide or bimetal] - the kerf will be as narrow as can be had and the speed with a 12" long billet will make you cry after the experience with a small table saw.) Apple - for me - is right at the top of desirable species for POF. Be mindful that there are many varieties, so there will be variations. I think the grandfather root stock and heirloom varieties are good ones. It is not as difficult to source as the unicorn Buxus sempervirens, but it is difficult. Apple trees transport a lot of sugars and while drying, a fungus can rot the wood, if you unlucky and the stock being dried is too thick. I apologize for not remembering the attribution, but one of us provided a link to a significant source for Apple - Hearne Hardwoods https://www.hearnehardwoods.com/apple-american-lumber/ I thank him for this. Found him - Gregory - thanks again. Now about rapid drying - a commercial kiln - controlled by someone who knows the necessary time and temp is best. If you like to gamble - you can build an inexpensive drying box. Six sides - length width depth your choice - material pink or blue Styrofoam house sheathing insulation (I used 1" with foil on one surface.) - comes 4 x 8 but Home Depot sells smaller craft size pieces - push fit - air leaks wanted. Heat source - 200W -300W incandescent light bulbs - Al foil and air gape between the bulb and the easily charred foam. A thermometer and a dimmer switch gives some control. I kept the temp under 120 degrees F. Ventilation - in a hole a one end - a surplus muffin computer cooling fan - most are low cost - the trick is the power source. I used it to dry Holly and beat the Blue Mold to the wood without significant twisting or checking.

For gun ports, not only is the height of the sills determined by the position of the deck, the slope of the sills is determined by the slope of the deck. Endeavor was a collier? The USS Maine demonstrated the danger of poorly vented coal, Would that cargo not want venting? Flat plans + curved surface - do not match. I would pick a landmark as close to the port as possible and gauge from that - going from each side and interpolating any difference. The port dimensions are all the same, but on the profile plan the bow port would appear smaller on the X dimension.

If you are really doing POF, since you wrote "cutting frames", depending on your scale and the size of the vessel, The timbers for a first rate liner @ 1:48 can easily exceed 1/4" in thickness. Madness as a choice to be sure, since when the hull is assembled, you have to decide who gets the house, you or it. I wonder if this tool is up to the job. I suspect that control is better with a fixed blade and a moving piece of stock. My crystal ball foresees heart ache and frustration, given the hundreds of frames timbers needed for one hull. If you miss typed and it is plywood molds for POB that needs cutting, this may help reduce the work. A fixed blade would still be easier. The motor and blade mount will limit your ability to see the cut. The time that a high end scroll saw saves in dressing with a disk or drum sander may not be enough to justify the expenditure. I get the job done with a generic 9" band saw - a 1/4" blade - and a Carter Stabilizer. The always down cutting force of a band saw eliminates the stock jumping up problem, the Carter add on allows very tight curves. It helps to choose a saw with a blade length that is commonly available.

What works for me is a good quality rubber cement - Best Test is what I prefer. The trick is to use a very liberal and full coverage coat on both surfaces. Let it dry a bit and then stick. this method does not favor further adjustment, so a careful aim is needed. The solvent is volatile and the cement can get too thick, so I have a quart of the solvent Bestine (n-hepane) and use a pipette to add small volumes to keep the cement at the correct viscosity. I work from a 120ml applicator cap bottle, but buy it in quarts. I cut out the frame timbers for USS Vincennes in 2015 and the patterns are still stuck fast to the pieces - waiting for assembly into frames.

I wonder if a tool edge would last longer with frequent stropping using gold or green or even rouge compd. on scrap leather instead of visiting a stone as often to keep it as close to a mono layer as can be had?

Given the large number of abandoned logs - at least in the scratch forum - I have been wondering if following the method that my dissertation director attributed to Albert Szent-Györgyi might be a good way to go. He supposedly completed an experiment but did not publish it right away. He made a grant proposal based on that finished experiment and used the funds for the next experiment. Sort of gives a 100% success rate for proposed experiments. Finish a model, photo document each step. Publish it as a log, post serially over a period of time. The interval determined by how efficient you wish to appear to be. This sort of like the logs recreated after the 2013 crash., except that they were not posted as a sequence over time. This precludes getting outside help as you go, but is that a frequent occurrence anyway? You could do that now and who could tell the difference? (sorry for the confused verb tenses.)

As an alternative HIC (Smithsonian) drafted a class of schooners - Morris is the lead. He drew one alternative bow similar to what you seem to want = Hamilton. The subject is not an impossible one for a first scratch build. An uncomplicated hull and rig, it is closer to something hanging from the davits on a liner than a consort for one.

Might that depend on how long the plates had been kept after delivery from the rolling mill? Our "just in time" system is a very recent development. The mills were probably lower in rate of production, delivery time and weight per load, the inverse of now.

The photos of HMS Victory and USS Constitution in dry dock - the copper - did not seem to be dented like that in the photos here in previous threads about this subject. Did I miss that?

Do current builders use thinner copper?

The copper nails were not rivets. They were flattened near flush with the copper sheets. They would be all but not noticed below the extremely large scales.

Alder should work. A species near the plywood hardness makes shaping it more work to no real advantage. Going all the way inside the hull gives a base that is firm enough for one layer of planking - if two layers is the design. If the below the waterline hull is to be coppered, adding the plank thickness to the filler dimension and scabing that layer to the face of the molds (bulkheads) = no planking needed in the way of the copper. No - to using it as a deck underlayment. Trim the inside of the filler to be a bit thicker than the frames would be. They do not need faring - rough and staggered at that face is sufficient.

Your last photo - the masts' length - is it a matter of perspective that they look longer than a schooner would actually carry?

Pin pusher = a tool that looks like a good idea, but really does not work a expected. For the below, a small hammer and or a curved Kelly clamp (forceps/hemostat) Use a pin vise or rotary drill to make a hole for the pin that is smaller than the pin diameter. A hitch chock can be used to apply more force. Hitch chock = a small piece of scrap wood with a hole thru it sited just below the head of the pin to apply force to the plank surface. If you do not thru drill the pilot hole, the pin can be bent over the chock. You are left with filling the hole. Bamboo skewers - a single edge razor blade - a drill gauge for a draw plate or a real draw plate. Really tedious - the character of the bamboo species makes a difference in yield and how long it takes. The chock can be split off and the pin nipped and filed - if it is brass or copper wire. Fe pins will rust and disintegrate.

Jim, My evaluation of Yellow Poplar -Liriodendron tulipifera - a tree that grows fairly rapidly. very straight, large diameter trunk. tight grain, closed pore, at the soft end as far as density, easy on tools, holds a sharp edge. The color - yellow to grey to green tends to make it a problem in a visible clear finish situation, Interior and painted - excellent for most any part. I prefer harder species, but that is a personal bias. Planking - excellent - need to pick the pieces carefully if color is a factor. Black poplar - Lombardy poplar - Populus nigra - a whole nuther thing. The free grows straight, fast, dies young and a bad winter can be a disaster. The wood is very soft, fibers tend to roll, can be fuzzy, weak. More suited for making pallets. Can be used if the tools are very sharp and there is no stress. It will not be a joy to work. Planking - probably will dent easily, getting sharp edges = difficult, splitting will lead to a lot of waste.

Fixing a dowel or wood balk in lathe jaws and being able to turn a even - constant tapper - a nice dream. Reality and practicality drown that dream in mot instances. The spars are often too long for lathe models in our price range. In scales where they are short enough, their diameter = difficult to resist the lateral force of a cutting tool without breaking. Clamp an electric drill to turn the spar and use sandpaper to shape it. Amazon (and probably others) sell low cost ball bearings with a range of OD and ID sizes. A jig to hold the bearing is easy to make and wooden or cardboard wedges can support the outboard end of the spar with no friction heating up the spar piece as it turns.

Go back in your mind - to your past builds and envision the steps that took the most time or were repetitive. Then try to imagine a power tool that would speed that up. Then, start your next project and when you get to such a place, buy the tool that you think will help. By focusing on kits, your tool needs will be significant less than a scratch builder. A heavy and an expensive power tool investment is going self sufficient in your lumber. Full size cutting and milling (resawing). Scratch POF responds well to the appropriate tools. Scratch POB can get by with less. Unless you intend to fabricate your own new power tools, that require working steel or Al, two seductive tools that will not get enough use to justify their cost = a lathe and a mill. You are in a position to cut an individual path, should you wish to come over to the dark side = scratch POF. You have easier access to plans of vessels important to your region - Chapman and the Danish museum.