Greg Davis

I decided that my first attempts at making the curved carlings had not resulted in pieces that I would use, so I am still at this stage and will be until I get results that I am satisfied with.

Hopefully more pictures soon!

The deck planking is done and has been given a light coat of varnish.

Hull planking is up next.

I've added a few more filler pieces than were supplied and am continuing to prep the bulkheads / filler pieces for planking. 

I have also been adding the deck planking. Currently 4 of the 5 deck segments have been planked, with the 5th in progress.

I've also done some of the preliminary smoothing of the deck.  

The deck planking material is very thin - 0.5 mm and my first choice of adhesive, a standard water based wood glue caused the strips to cup severely. I then changed to using medium CA and the results were fine. I also decided to use lengths of planking strips that match each of the deck lengths. I want to minimize the number of joints seen by a viewer's eyes as the planking material is quite wide at 5mm. At the 1:80 scale of the model would represent planks nearly 16 in wide on the actual ship - too wide for the time period!

A lot of the work on the first of the curved carlings is getting done with hand tools and fitting is in progress. 

I was able to mill the wood for the curved carlings and am starting to make the first one - currently I am milling notches where the carling fits over the floor and will finish tomorrow.

I have also completed a pattern made from a thinner strip of wood that is being used to map out the actual carling. One of the straight carlings was used to hold the strip in position so that I could mark the shape with a compass. The shape was cut out and also marked for where the notches mentioned above will be located.

The side strakes are both adhered to the frames. 

I plan on drilling holes and pinning these pieces soon as this should be done before adding the four corner knees.

As I was studying plans for the vessel and determining next moves, it became clear that I should add the two curved carlings that go along the bottom interior edges before inserting the knees mentioned above. If work isn't done in this order the knees will block my ability to drill and pin the last two carlings in the areas that are below the side strake knees. 

So tomorrow I hope to prepare the 4.5mm thick stock required for the curved carlings and maybe get started in their formation.

Thank you!

Today I made up some 6 x 2.25mm strips for the interior side strakes. Each is made in two pieces connected by a scarf joint. One strake is done and after a test fitting, looks like it is ready to be attached to the frames.

I am pleased with the scarf joint!

Not too long ago, I was fortunate to be able to retire after serving 35 academic years in various roles from mathematics professor to vice-chancellor of academic affairs of the University. It now seems that what my colleagues are missing most is the model ship I kept in my office! I've also been alerted a few times as to where a ship could reside in one of the Dean's suites. So I took a look through my ship kit inventory and found a model of the French research ship Le Pourquoi-Pas? (French for Why Not?). The ship made multiple scientific based trips to the Artic and Antarctic portions of the world. It seems to be a good choice for the College of Science, Engineering, and Technology that I had been part of.

The kit was made by Constructo. I am not sure, but it seems that it may no longer be in production. Like essentially all Constructo kits the finished product has the potential to be a very nice looking display model if you don't get too close! I believe for the purpose of general display, but not for intimate inspection the result will be more than satisfactory for display and a talking piece in the College. 

I began work a week ago and the first steps have been completed:

The bulkheads and false keel structure are die-cut in 4mm plywood. The die cutting was great - all pieces had the correct shape and were easily pressed out of the sheet they where in. The bulkheads fit in the keel slots without adjustment. The bulkheads where squared up with the keel and attached with yellow carpenter glue. Small lengths of square wood where added to provide additional support at the joints. 

At this point six pieces of wood were added that will eventually have masts fitted into them.

Wood is supplied for the stem and stern areas. The wedges of wood for the stem region did not fill out to the full width of the first bulkhead so additional material was added here. 

The top of the bulkheads, mast blocks, and filler wood where contoured together before adding the false deck pieces.

The false deck is 2mm plywood. Here the die cutting was not as well done - the contour of the deck pieces were clearly cut; however, the cuts did not make it even half-way through the plywood. So simply pressing these pieces out was not possible.  I used a scroll saw to cut the pieces out in a short period of time. 

The instructions suggest gluing and nailing the deck pieces to the bulkheads. I didn't want the nails to interfere with the final deck instillation, nor did I feel like removing them and/or grinding off their heads later. Instead I went with glue and a lot of clamps and rubber bands to keep all in order during the setting up and drying process.

The last bit of work that I have now completed is the shaping of the stem and stern fillers.

Presently, I am deciding whether or not to add in additional filler pieces to help keep the correct hull shape during the planking process. 

While it may not show really well in the photo - the basic interior fairing of frames 2 - 29 is now complete. The next step I will take is the final fitting of the bow and stern structures. Then there is a pair of carlings to make that, together with four knees, will tie the frames to the bow and stern. A final pair of curved carlings with many notches will be added to the juncture of the top timbers and the floors. Once those four carlings and four knees are added I will be able to either continue with interior work and/or start on the exterior. 

This weekend I made a bold move and began fairing the port interior - prior to completing the starboard side! 

Sometimes I wonder how certain individuals can do this kind of work with electric sanding devices. The one that comes most to mind is that of Philip Reed's work in Building a Miniature Navy Board Model. That would be just too nerve wracking for me.  

Thank you for all of the support - the sanding / fairing goes on.

Let's see, by my calculation: a couple of days = 2 days = 48 hours of work - I'm still right on target!

Honestly, the speed is really of little importance to me as much as seeing regular progress; and that certainly is happening with each and every session. 

With the jig bolted to the building board I have been doing a bit of sanding with a block fitted to the contour of the frames. It is not a fast process for me as I don't like to work with sandpaper rougher than 150 grit. This is the fourth straight day with at least two hours toward the fairing process on the interior starboard side of the dredger. Another couple of days and this side will be done and I can then move on to the port side.

While this is meaningful work, it is slow and I will be glad to move on to fabricating the next pieces to be attached to the structure!

Just got a jig worked out. It rests on top of the frame knees and will keep the top timbers right where they belong when I fair the interior.

I now have all 30 frames finished!

Today, I was also able to install and then smooth the fasteners through the carlings into the frames.

Helped along by Druxey's comment, I have decided to work inside first. The three other builds of this vessel that I have been able to study (Alexandru/guraus's MSW build log, gipsy's build log on the Marine Modelisme d'Arsenal site, and the Rimlinger model in Delacroix's manuscript) do not appear to use any supporting mechanism during the fairing process. I did start to sand the interior a bit but soon became concerned about robustness of the frames and convinced myself that I would feel more confident with a supporting frame. So, over the next few days I plan to construct an exterior frame based on the hull's envelope to support the current structure during the interior fairing process.

Frame 30 is going well - just two top timbers to attach and it will be complete.

While some glue was drying on frame 30, I drilled holes for the 168 fasteners in the main carlings

I am wondering how many (thousands?) of fasteners there will be in this model. Once these carlings are done, I believe the count will be 796 - good thing I ordered more #74 drill bits!

The bow frame together with the associated supporting knee have been completed. Here they are set in position:

Hopefully, frame 30 goes a bit more quickly based on what I learned assembling frame 1!

The frames will need a small amount of fairing and I wonder if it may be best to work inside first. If I work in this order, then I can place the interior side strakes that tie to the curved portions on frames 1 and 30 via four knees. This would then stabilize the structure in all three dimensions. Afterward the exterior of the frames can then be faired. This order would be reverse of the prototype model displayed in Delacroix's manuscript where exterior planking preceded interior work. Pro's or Con's?

Frame number 1 turned out to be the choice. After a couple of false starts, it is coming together now! Now will wait for final adjustments until tomorrow as the epoxied joints between the uprights and the floor dry over-night.

The frames are all glued to the carlings (minus #1 and #30). While the joints dry over night I will be weighing pros and cons in choosing between three tasks to be the next step in constuction:

• Complete frames 1 and 30 which will form the bow and stern
• Drill and insert copper wire 'bolts' through the three main carlings into frames #2 - 28
• Begin to form the two (curved) carlings that will fit in the angle made by the bottom timbers and the knee / top timbers 

Everyone - thank you so much for the encouragement!

This evening I have begun to attach frames to the carlings with a bit of yellow glue. I'm looking forward to being able to pick up and look at the structure from different angles.

Greg

I've milled mortises into frames 2 and 29 for the bitts as well as a number of mortises in the carlings for posts that will support the deck structure. A half dozen slots have also been cut into the ends of the carlings where top timbers associated with the bow and stern will pass.

I believe that I have completed all work needed prior to permanently attaching the carlings and frames (with the exception of frames 1 and 30 that will be dealt with later).

Today notches for the limber channels were milled into the 28 interior frames. The notches are equilateral triangles with height 1.25mm.

After placing the frames back in their proper positions within the main carlings, the limber channel is visible

Thank you very much!

I have chosen to build a model of 'A Port Dredger' following the Ancre monograph by Gerard Delacroix:

It does not appear to be a common project, although there is a wonderful build log on MSW: 

• Machine a curer les ports 1750 by guraus (Alexandru) - 1/36 - Finished 

I have chosen cherry as the wood species for the model. I was given a piece of this species of wood by a friend a number of years ago and it is being used for the frames and main carlings. Unfortunately, the piece will not be enough to complete the project, but fortunately I was able to source additional matching cherry locally. All of the wood is rough cut so I will be milling everything I need for the model.

I began by making the three main carlings and 28 of the 30 floors:

The floors were cut overlength and marked for 6 notches each that will match with the carlings.

The notches were fashioned with a chisel, unlike the notches in the carlings which were milled.

The floors and carlings nicely mate!

Next knees and top timbers where cut out with a scroll saw.

The knees where positioned and glued to the floors. At this point, the hull was starting to take form (here the frames and carlings are not permanently connected). 

After a bit of final adjustment on the knees to be completely level with the floors, the top timbers were added.

Each frame / knee/ top timber combination was then drilled for 10 'bolts'. The holes are 0.5mm and the 'bolts' are 24 GA copper wire. It did take me 3 #74 drill bits to do the job as I did break 2 of them. After inserting the copper wire with a touch of CA glue, followed with a bit of filing and finish sanding got the job done.  I am satisfied that the 'bolts' are visible but don't overly direct my eyes to them.

In fact, for other following Frank's build (and Yves' comment) - here is a link to where he found the building jig idea for Emma: https://www.historicshipmodels.com/emma-c-berry/ .

Greg