yvesvidal

If you know the weight of the real ship, just divide it by the cube of the scale (3375000 in your case). That will give you what the model should weight to be in its flotation lines. The result can be alarming.....for your lower back!!! Yves

I like your hand-painted version ten times more than the decals. Yves

Fantastic subject than the Wapama. I have to be honest, I love ships of that era. I like the idea of building a waterline model as it simplifies so much the building process and allows to present the model on a nice diorama made of water and small waves (in resin of course). The scale of 1/71th is interesting but will allow you to use small Airfix figures (1/72th) or some other suppliers and that will provide some life to your model, especially if you show it on a sea diorama. The models presented from the Museums are incredible and should allow you to source some inspirations and challenges at the same time. Yves

That detail will look good, once painted. Yves

Beautiful work. I admire your skills with cards. I wish such models would be available in plastic injected kits, at the same scale. Yves

Next step is to install the bulwarks supports on top of the deck. According to the documentation, here is what must be done: I thought I could use the slots in the cradle to guide me....Besides the first three or four supports that are working well, the cradle horizontal plates are conflicting with the supports. It is then mandatory to now extract the hull from its cradle. Rather delicate operation... Last picture in the cradle (at least for a while or most likely for ever....): Rolling drums......!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It came out nicely, without too many unpleasant noises and bad surprises. Nothing was broken and no parts were found at the bottom of the cradle: Big relief overall. That cradle was great and turned out to be very well designed and sturdy. The hull assembly is so light, it is incredible. What a contrast with the Bellona hull which was weighing 10 pounds with nothing built inside. The Chebec is clearly showing how light and sturdy it was designed and how quick it must have been on the Mediterranean sea. The weight is unbelievable. It is like holding these ultra-lights that people operate in large warehouses: It is still a big hull and will make a nice model: Yves

The final planks have been added to each side: The original planks have some very complex cuts to go around the frames in the bow. However, these do not match and thus, I cut them completely. Because the deck is almost completely covered by the gun deck (slanted horizontally), the kit did not provide a perfect match between the deck and the side of the frames. Even though it will not be visible, I have decided to add some boxwood strips I had left from the Bellona to fill that gap. Before: And after: At this point, the deck is flush with the side of the frames. Finally, for some more fun, I am starting to populate the bow, which has a very elaborate and intricate arrangement, due to the front mast: That's all Folks! Yves

I like the stand: it brings a nice contrast with the perfection of the model :-) Yves

Finally, I ended up cutting the central support (the deck is now solid enough...) and you can see the monkey ladder leading you to the keel and dirty bilge. Yves

Planking of the deck is almost complete. I proceeded symmetrically, as much as possible: And finally. Just one more plank on the edge, to customize a little bit: Nice intricacies on the stern, which will unfortunately, be all covered. The maple wood is extremely smooth to the touch after being sanded. A very sensual experience for the hands.... almost better than skin... Yves

These are not easy kits, far from it. Extremely delicate. instead of the fabric, paper tissue on them, why don't you try some very thin plastic card or even heavy paper. For a modern jet, that would make for a nicer finish. Yves

Yeah, I have one of these piece of wood with a bunch of nails driven into it. This is the perfect and flexible jig that every wood modeller needs. Glad to see that we share the same jig 🙂 Yves

Argh.... that is always a delicate moment..... Yves

Interesting aircraft. You are correct, it looks like a Japanese Thunderbolt (P-47 D). Yves

Dan, David, You guys are pushing the perfection to stratospheric heights, with these Indian canoes. This is fantastic. Yves

That is the instructions sheet to build the planking. They even got the thickness wrong.....

I have managed to connect front and rear parts of the ship together. It is a real puzzle and I had to mark each plank with numbers. If you ever assemble this kit, make sure to take your time and label everything. Very easy to make a mistake at that stage. This is how I approached it: From the mid-section, the planks have not been glued and are floating. This will allow us to position them correctly with the rest of the mid-rear planking. After a few hours of focused work: Half of it is done!! It seems to work. And now, from the center, I built the other side (starboard): Still a lot to do... Yves

Trumpeter should definitely hire you to improve their models.... 😄 Amazing work. Yves

Very eerie atmosphere for sure..... The ship will hit the harbor wall for sure..... Yves

That is quite a few rolls of PLA. Beautifully done. Yves

I have that kit in my stash. I bought it since I model in O scale (1/48th) and was hoping to find a chassis of 0-8-0 that I could use to turn that model into a rolling and working engine. Too many projects and not enough time.... Please start a new thread for this one. It is worth it. YVes

I started the deck planking. WOW, that is not easy, despite all the planks being pre-cut by CAF Model. As a matter of fact, I would have preferred at times, that it was not pre-cut.... This is how it looks out of the kit. You have two symmetrical sheets, including the entire planking of the main deck. If you think you can slap this massive piece on the deck and call it over, you are totally mislead. In fact, it becomes a very complex puzzle that needs to be addressed with respect and patience. It is important to keep all the planks in the proper location and order, if you want to match the defined curves. I started by the center as most people do and I am developing symmetrically as much as possible. Once the front center is done, I will try to position the long curvy planks that will also drive the stern planking. Measure ten times, and cut once as they say.... At this stage, I can place the long curvy plank (on both sides) that will also locate and allow me to plank the stern correctly. Note that the plank are made with Maple wood of 1.8 mm thick. That stuff is hard, stiff and really hard to cut. I wish they went with 1.2 mm or something of that kind. For sure, with such thickness, you can sand and polish the deck a lot. The laser charring provides a nice separation and caulking illusion between the planks. Each plank is detached, sanded a little bit and glued separately. I will try to use a pencil to correct the lack of caulking where the laser did not cut. Tree nailing? Hell no! I will just simulate with a pick and some pencil graphite as I did near the center of the deck. Overall, not easy and almost as hard as planking the real ship. 1.8 mm x 48 ... that is almost 4 inches thick planks in real life. Yves

Craig, You are such a good customer with MFH that you get the royal treatment. Yves

Finishing the deck beams around the mast. I looked for all kinds of information, regarding the colors of the Chebec features. In the end, I have decided to recreate an old model (more than 200 years ago) which is owned and displayed by the Museum de la Marine in Paris. A lot of the features on the deck are painted in red (ocre red), according to the Monograph. It will also provide a nice contrast with the clear wood of the deck. And no, I am not cutting the central support.... it will be covered, anyway. Next massive step is the planking of the deck..... Yves

Nice kit. I had never seen it before. I will be following with a lot of interest. Yves