yvesvidal
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Everything posted by yvesvidal
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I am glad that you decided to plank the hull. Calypso is an old minesweeper and as such the hull was made of wood. The bow is made of metal, so be careful to not plank it entirely. Yves
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John, Thank you for the links. The 3D virtual walk is amazing and renders so well the atmosphere of the ship. I have this kit in my stash and will take advice from your build log. Yves
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WOW...putting together an engine at that scale is pure torture.... an expensive one on top of that 🙂 That Lancia is a great car and a very rare model. Yves
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These old Revell kits are probably among the most difficult to assemble correctly. I have done a few and must say that. You are doing a terrific job with your Arizona and it will pay off later on. After doing such an old Revell kit, any modern Trumpeter kit will be a breeze in comparison. Yes, the art on the boxes is just wonderful and I know a few people who just collect the boxes for their artworks, knowing that they will never touch the plastic parts inside. Yves
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WOP is Wipe on Poly, a chemical distributed by Minwax: It may be difficult to find in Europe and cost about $20 a small bottle in the USA. It provides a nice finish to wood and creates a thin layer of polyurethane on the surface of the wood, while also adding a subtle change of color to the light woods. Personally, I love it and have used it on my previous models. Yves
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I like the markings on the serpentine/fan belt. Yves
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That is incredible. I love the fact that they depicted the inside of the machines and all the decks. What a fantastic model to build. Yves
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Working on the bases of the masts. First the main mast. If someone could explain to me what are these small yellow dots on the mast shims, I would appreciate it. The shims have not been sanded and I will finalize the base, when building the main mast. The base is not glued yet: Yves
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Greg, So far the parts are holding very well. Oiling and Waxing (combined in one product) are done mostly after gluing. However, some parts are oiled/waxed before gluing and to be on the safe side, I wait a day or two for the wood to suck all the chemicals before gluing. It seems to work fine and it is pretty strong. Thank you for the compliment. Yves
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A legendary classic. I will be following. Yves
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I am starting to blend Session #1 and Session #2. Like most CAF Model kits, this ship comes in two sessions. The first session is all about the cradle, the hull and frames, including the stern. Session #2 is everything else. I did not complete the stern as it would impede easy access into the hull, for installing, nailing and sanding the inner planking. I will return to the stern (end of Session #1) at a later date. For now, I am trying to do the following: As indicated before, it is very difficult as there is no room for clamps, since the hull is stuck in its cradle and cannot be removed, yet. The long timber pieces have to be formed by hand, soaking them in alcohol and them bending them by hand, until they have reached the approximate desired shape. Gluing is then done in sections, using CA glue, and maintained with your fingers while drying. Below, you can see how the open stern helps with the internal access. The tree nailing is done as much as possible like on a real ship. The holes are actually crossing all the way into the frames, and the toothpicks soaked with glue are actually connecting the parts. It adds a little bit of bonding into some areas which are not possible to glue easily. Yves
- 126 replies
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Moving on with tedious and extremely delicate tasks. I decided to tree nail the wood pieces. It helps bonding with the frames, as the holes go inside the frame. Not sure I will do that everywhere inside the hull, as it will be barely visible. There is no way to hold the planks internally and you have to maintain them with your fingers, while the glue dries. Not exactly practical. The tree nailing is very subtle, which I prefer a lot. Yves
- 126 replies
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This is a great kit and a very nice navigating model. I built mine 40 years ago and the model has been sailing on the Mediterranean sea (inside a harbor) and on many lakes of Europe and the USA. You will enjoy building it. Yves
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Thank you James. Coming from you, it means a lot. Yves
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This is where we stand, at this moment. As mentioned before, the frames cannot be removed from the cradle until the deck beams and the inside of the hull have been built: Yves
- 126 replies
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As mentioned before, resin will find its way through the tiniest leak, where water would not even react. I like the heeling of the ship as it gives a more dramatic perspective in this ultra nasty environment. Yves
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Nice piece of hull that you printed. I wish you could show us some of the parts that were printed before the assembly. I like the belt for the rudders. Very clever. Yves
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All the frames have been glued and the keelson finalized: That cradle is quite practical, and it allows me to store the ship away from my bench, quite easily: It is a large model but nothing comparable to the humongous size of the HMS Bellona. Happy Holidays to all. Yves
- 126 replies
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Fabulous diorama. Very creative. If I may have one small suggestion: try to blemish the plastic bottles of water. They are way too bright and in good condition, since we can assume they are as old as the skeleton in the MaschinenKrieger. Yves
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If I told you that I have had an indigestion of frames, would you believe me? Seriously, I just finished building 84 frames with just 4 more to go on the stern. The rear frames were by far the most difficult to remove from the plates, sand, adjust on the keel, fair and verify. Here are most of the tools I used to build these 84 frames: The Dremel...? Indispensable. Oh and some sand paper to finish before oiling and waxing the wood. Below is Number #74 to #79: Then, #80 to #84+ Dry fitting: Of course, not all frames are perfect. I do have some misalignments and I am hoping that once some planking is in place (inside and outside), things may recover nicely. Also, there are four gun ports that I did not build yet and I will address these once the deck beams are in place and the hull a little bit sturdier. Now is time to glue it all and "Commit" !!! Yves
- 126 replies
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These small boats are not easy to build. They often present these kits as entry level, because of their moderate prices. But it is a trap and a source of delusion and frustration for a novice. I find larger kits (and more expensive) easier to build overall. You are doing a great job and the use of CA is fine, as long as you have the patience to sand the glue between the rib (or before placing a new rib) and as long as you will paint the interior of the hull. CA is not forgiving and penetrates so much that it is hard to remove all traces of it. I personally prefer Testors Green tube for wood. No left over and rather strong bond. Slower than CA, of course. Yves
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Nice and more realistic change to the kit. I do not understand why they would have designed the kit in this way. The keel may be very subtle on a Riva, but it does exist no matter what. Other thing: Amati shows these horrible staples/nails to hold the planks.... The real RIVA is assembled using clamps, as shown on the picture. Yves
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- runabout
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I finalized Frames #71, 72 and 73. These have been glued and a segment of keelson installed to keep everything in place: And the usual perspective pictures: I am working on the #80's frames which are really delicate and require a ton of adjustment to fit correctly. By far, the most difficult part of the hull. Yves
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