SJSoane
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Hi Ed, That staircase is downright architectural! Looks great. Mark- 3,596 replies
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Siggi, Your study shows without a doubt that the men lived very, very closely with the guns, the main purpose of their activities! Have you made a paper layout of the table and benches in the center? It would be interesting to see how much space is between the back of the benches and the guns. Mark
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Siggi, You are certainly finding the complications many steps ahead of me! My first thought is that the cabin panels would be removed during a battle, so the clearance when the guns are run inboard would not matter, assuming the pantry panels would have been removed. So then there is the problem of when the guns are stowed as druxey described, and the third gun from the stern is mostly blocking the door to the cabin. I seem to recall that the Bellona/Dragon drawings show the doors swinging forward, not astern, and so the outer door of each pair would indeed hit the gun. Could it be that only the inner door of the two would be used, leaving the outer door for decoration (like many french doors on houses, one uses one while leaving the other closed)? And then the final puzzle is the short distance between the two sternmost guns. It does not look like a lot of room for recoil if they had to fire both broadsides at once! I think I read somewhere that the shorter guns were used one deck up, but druxey's question is worth looking into. Something does not quite fit here! Best wishes, Mark
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Here is another online version. It is clumsy to click on the main menu to move around, but everything seems to be there, including the scanned images of the pages listing all rigging for different ship sizes. http://www.maritime.org/doc/steel/index.htm Mark
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HI Ed, I don't know the ins and outs of the historical evolution of paint, so I defer to other's insights on this. Having said that, the gloss look is very striking, and helps convey the feeling of a sleek greyhound of a hull. Nicely done! Mark
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Hi everyone, While waiting for my newer MicroMark RTV rubber, I started on the carriages. I used double sided tape to hold the blanks onto the mill table, and milled them to shape including the rabbets for the axles. I then cut the individual blanks on the table saw, with the mitre set to 2 degrees on each side for the correct convergence of the carriage. I am also showing a jig for cutting the curved lower edge, using a piloted bit on my router table. Best wishes, Mark
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Beautiful work, Remco. That is a very fine partner. Mark
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Siggi, Very nice! good progress. Mark
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Beautiful craftsmanship! Mark
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Hi Ed, When you post about the jig for the copper plates, can you also explain how you keep all of the fine pins at exactly the same height? I once tried making a jig for something unrelated, and had a difficult time fastening pins closely together at the same height. I look forward to how you did this. Mark
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Siggi Well spotted, I never noticed the pawls in that photo before! Mark
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Very nice, Alex! Mark
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Siggi, I think I will need the plaster outer form. The first cast definitely squeezed the barrel into an oblong rather than a circle, even though I clamped the mould between two pieces of plywood. I thank you so much for your advice and guidance. Mark
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Ed, Wow, I had a hint from various comments you have made over time that you crafted miniature soldiers. It is really nice to see them! I will try the hot plate first before investing in an electric melting pot. I have already sneaked the hot plate out of the kitchen for boiling wood; it will never be missed! Best wishes, Mark
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Hi Siggi, I don't have any more information than the photo of the Bellona. You make a good point that the pawls cannot work at the same time on two decks, because they cannot hit the whelp at the same time, with 5 on one deck and 6 on the other. If they were fitted on both decks, it could only be for the convenience of working the capstan on one deck or the other at a given time. Can you imagine one team yelling up the other deck, "don't worry, we will kick in the pawls if necessary".... Mark
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Hi Ed, Thanks very much for this help. I have 28 castings to do at this gun size, plus a few spares. I had originally ordered the 1 to 1 four hour set, which exceeded its shelf life by a long time, and I think I need to throw away at this point. I was just about to order some new RTV, and saw that MicroMark has a one to one one hour set; in light of your comments, can I assume that this would be too fragile for my intended run? And do you think I should go ahead and order the 10 to 1? I see what druxey is saying about floppiness with the rubber I tried so far, and perhaps the 10 to 1 would not have that problem. I will try the measuring by weight rather than by volume in a measured cup; it seemed fairly hit and miss by volume. Do you mean a regular kitchen hot plate and metal dish? I somehow assumed I would need more intense heat as in a propane torch. Thanks again, it is always comforting to be walking in the footsteps of great craftsmen who have been down this road before! Mark
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Sherry, The comparison between the two is remarkable. That is an impressive piece of workmanship! Mark
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Michael, So both you and Siggi have had experiences with metal flying around the room. I am beginning to understand that metal casting is a contact sport! Isn't it fun reflecting on those early life experiences that only later we can call character building...;-) Mark
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Ed, It is such a joy to see your step by step tutorials. It is impressive how logically you approach each step, and then it seems self-evident. But not until we see you do it! Mark
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Hi druxey, Ed and Michael, Thanks very much for the advice. You have all had a lot of experience with casting, and this is invaluable for me. I will try the top down feed in my next version, and see what happens. I will first order some new rubber from MicroMark. I think the shelf life problem was working against me this first time. It was a little thick. How were you all heating the pewter? With a propane torch, or will a micro-torch do the job? Best wishes, Mark
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Hi David, it is worth jumping into, and easier than I had expected. My initial failure just gave me more encouragement to get it right next time. Siggi, your English well explains the image of pewter flying around your shop! I hope nothing got burned. I have already purchased some pewter from a jewelry supply, and will likely try casting it in the spring, when I can go outside to heat it up. I am a little bit concerned about the weight of pewter guns, and the possibility that they could break away from their mountings long after I can no longer gain access to the deck. But I assume many before me have successfully managed this. Best wishes, Mark
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Siggi, well spotted. I did forget the touch hole. Good thing I have to start again anyway! So, do you have a centrifugal force casting machine? I have seen those in jewelry catalogs. Mark
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Gaetan, That is a beautifully crafted ropewalk. Can you explain a little more about the swivels? I don't see them in the first photo at the motor end. Is there only one, on the tail end with the trolley? Also, can you show the three legged top in more detail? Does it have grooves along the legs for the thread? And is the thread the Bokens linen size 110? Lots of questions, but I am fascinated with the quality of the lines you are creating. Mark
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Remco, Your attention to this level of detail is remarkable, and so perfectly accomplished. Mark
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