HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING!
×
Jim Lad
-
Posts
9,470 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Jim Lad
-
Just catching up with your build, mate - delightful work! John -
Oh, what a complicated modelling life you lead, Popeye! That air brush looks a super deal! John
-
That structure is really looking first class, Andy! John
- 382 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- stadacona
- sylvan scale models
- (and 1 more)
-
Andy, I think the fourth angles strut from the right looks about 0.005MM out. Very well done on the second strut, mate. John
- 382 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- stadacona
- sylvan scale models
- (and 1 more)
-
Slow, but sure, Russ. It's good to see her coming along! John
-
Sam, If you go back a page you can see the details o my post of the 19th. John
-
Just catching up, Ron. That boat is looking excellent! John
-
Just catching up, Bob. You've certainly made good progress, mate! John
-
Ouch! But you probably got as lightly as you could hope for, Pat! John
- 517 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- Endeavour
- Artesania Latina
- (and 1 more)
-
Very elegant, Danny! John
-
Nicely done, Mark. John
-
The stuff that I used didn't require the use of a vacuum chamber. John
-
17th Century Shallop by ryesbeemer
Jim Lad replied to ryesbeemer's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Welcome to the 'dark side', mate! That looks like it will make a lovely model! John -
Just catching up, Gil. She's coming along very nicely indeed! John
-
Just catching up ,Freek. She's coming along well! John
-
That's really the cat's whiskers, Danny! John
-
Delightful, Danny! John
-
Coming along very nicely, mate! John
-
Sherry, The stuff I used is 'Pinkysil' two component silicone mould maker, and 'Procast' medium set rigid polyurethane casting resin. These are both made by an Australian company called Barnes Products Pty Ltd. Their local shop web site has a lot of interesting information on it - http://www.barnes.com.au/catalog/index.php They also have some helpful 'how to' stuff on you tube that can be accessed from the web site. Hopefully this will give you enough information to atrack down what you need over there. John
-
Sherry, I moulded the carronades for my Stag (1:96) from resin. I made a master from wood and copper wire and used that to make a mould - it worked extremely well. I had never tried resin casting prior to this and found the whole process slightly messy, but very simple to do. If you have 100+ cannons to make, you could probably make several moulds from your master and then go into mass production. John
-
Very nice job on a bit of tricky joinery, Danny! John
-
Just catching up, Toni - she looks great. I go away for a week and you build half a model! John
-
Ollie, The planking above the wale would normally be parallel sided, but below the wale the planking will vary considerably in width, being widest at the stern and narrowest at the bow. The run in between will not be a simple taper, but the plank width will vary depending on the hull shape. Typically, the planks will be widest at the stern, then narrow in and then become a little wider about midships and then narrow in again towards the bow, but the actual shape is very much dependant on the shape of the hull. The 'run' of the planking is simply the line of each strake of planking along the hull. In this photo of the replica of the schooner 'Enterprize' (1829) under construction in Melbourne, the 'run' or the shape of the lines of planking can clearly be seen. John
- 803 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- colonial cutter
- modellers shipyard
- (and 1 more)
-
Neat bit of joinery, Danny! John
Our Emblem ®
