Jim Lad
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Everything posted by Jim Lad
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Very nicely crafted, Danny. Looking forward to seeing the guns re-rigged. John -
Well, only a very small update again. I seem to have spent most of my day today running around doing almost everything except model making. However I did manage to get the stem on, so after cleaning up the basic backbone, the next job will be to cut the rabbets and then make the frame extension for the overhanging counter before making a framing jig and starting to give her some bones. John
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And so you should be! John
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Nice to see some actual progress, Gil! John
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No pinstripe looks good to me, Michael. John
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I've never used the wood, but the breadfruit are delicious! John
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Looking good, mate! Buy some extra long screws in case the next one is even bigger. John
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Russ, Great to see you back at your work bench! John
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Bill, You can cast in metal or resin. I've done a little resin casting and found it quite simple, but I've never cast in metal. John
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Gimbals! Yikes! John
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
Jim Lad replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
That's looking good, Tom. A little cleaning of the joints and you've got it licked! John -
Bill, I think Druxey's method is the way to go. Make one master for each size and then cast them. That way you'll still have the masters for future builds, and you'll have done it yourself. John
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Michael, I'm not sure that the contrasting colours look a bit 'flash' and not like you'd expect on a yacht (especially one that was a pilot cutter). I think I'd go for either plain wood or painted canvas. John
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Thanks for that, Bruce - that's a good idea for lining up the deadeyes! John
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Ollie, Whatever that label says, it wouldn't be 'ice chest'! I think you might find the teak a bit too grainy for the scale you're working at, but if you could see before buying to assess the grain, it would be fun to use. John
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That's looking first class, Bruce. Do you fix the upper deadeyes to the piece of white card or plastic to get the spacing right? John
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Ulrich, Unless you need the additional strength of the wire for some reason, I think I'd be inclined to use an appropriately coloured rope instead. John
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Piet, looking at the photo, I'd say that the first of your two anchors is closest to the one on the sub. John
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Good grief! He builds his own working model compass and then apologises because it's not fully gimbled! John
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And is that you we can just see on the far right of the photo, Michael? John
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Where Do You Keep Your Working Plans
Jim Lad replied to BubbleHead's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Excellent idea, TJ. John -
Looks like you're off to a good start on an interesting project. If this model is going to be radio controlled, how will you access the radio and batteries? John
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Ed, Found something of interest in Eric Lawson's 'The Egeria - an example of mid-nineteenth century New Brunswick ship construction'. Lawson carried out an extensive and detailed examination of the hull of the 'Egeria' which now lies in the Falkland Islands and is still used as a storage facility. 'Egeria' was built at Kennebecasis in 1859. Lawson states that 'Egeria' has iron strapping outside the frames; the plates each being 26 1/2 feet long, 1 1/8 inches thick and either 4 or 6 inches wide. Perhaps more interestingly, he quotes from Lloyds Register of British and Foreign Shipping (1858 edition, Section 62, Para 3) that ships built in the British North American Colonies must have diagonal iron plates closely inserted either inside or outside the frame. While Canadian shipbuilding and Lloyds rules might seem a little removed from McKay's yard, the evidence of the surviving ship and the quotation from the 1858 Lloyds rules is firm evidence of iron strapping and of strapping internally. John
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