Jim Lad
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Everything posted by Jim Lad
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Mate, that's almost like asking, "How long is a piece of string?" The diameter of the derrick will depend on its safe working load (SWL), length and the thickness of the steel used in its construction. For an average sort of cargo derrick of 5 ton SWL, a diameter of 8 or 9 inches won't be too far out. John -
Bob, The plans are currently at the museum, but if I remember correctly, she was 66 feet between perpendiculars. More updates in a few days! John
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Under weigh, Mario. It'll be good to see lots of pictures so we can see just how this type of construction works. John
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You may even get away with soft soldering if you don't have facilities to silver solder. As there'll be no weight on the rowlocks thaey should be OK so long as you drill through the strip part to solder the wire. John
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Crikey, Mobbsie, you've really made progress on her. She's looking really good! John
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Good on yer, mate. She really looks the ants pants! Johnb
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Yep, anything heavy could be moved using a combination of stay and yardarm tackles! John
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That's an easy one to answer, Chuck - expertly! John
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cable laid vs rope (left vs right twist)
Jim Lad replied to davec's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Dave, I'm not sure just how large a hawser laid rope can be - when I was at sea we used to use 10 inch mooring lines that were hawser laid (just don't be in the way if one breaks under strain). Cable laid rope was indeed made by laying up three hawser laid ropes, which is why it was laid up left handed. The lower stays and shrouds of hemp rigged vessels were commonly (but not universally) of cable laid rope, and so left handed. On small ships the lower rigging was sometimes hawser laid. I'm speaking here of English 19th century practice, by the way. John -
Try this link, Tom. http://www.waymarking.com/waymarks/WMEGZF_PT_796_torpedo_boat_Fall_River_MA John
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I would imagine that kit builders supply POB hulls because thay're easier to cut and pack and customers don't need so much in the way of heavy tools or workshops to build large hulls. It would also be easier to incorporate lower gun decks or false guns into a POB structure. For the scratch builder with access to standard woodworking tools and some workshop space, I think that a solid hull (or bread and butter) would be a more practical solution than POB. John
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Here are two illustrations from 'Seamanship in the Age of Sail' by John Harland that explain the operation of launching a boat from the deck of a sailing ship. This is an excellent reference book for those members who build models of wooden sailing ships and wish to understand more of their methods of operation and handling. John
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Man, you really have parred your operation down to the bare bones, Popeye, but your crew need more backbone - they're gutless - I wouldn't rib you about that! John
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No good, Mark - those critters are short about 50% of the regulation number of legs. Augie - I hope the can of coke wasn't open. That stuff could cause serious damage if it splashed in your finishes. John PS. If you need to buy the fish, make sure that they're really fresh and put a tiny hole near the mouth to show where the hook was.
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Bruce, I'd think that the forward cormer of the canannel would be a good place for the bumpkin and, yes, just long enought to spread the sail would be right for length. As for belaying points for the guys and martingale, I think the only answer is that they "be secured at a convenient point". Ain't that the truth!! It's one of the joys of building ships of this preriod, though! John
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SS Vinal Haven by TBlack - FINISHED
Jim Lad replied to TBlack's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
And I suppose we'll eventually see a coffee pot and some mugs on top of those drawers, Tom. John- 326 replies
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Very professional looking job, Piet. John
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2.5 mm would certainly be a lot closer, and easier to work with around the curves of the hull. John
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This is really going to be a fun one to follow, Mario! John
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Yes, Druxey, but I thought it might still be a starting point for the heel of a swinging bumpkin. John
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Just catching up with what you're doing, Tim - she's coming along really nicely. Oh, and by the way, congratulations to your daughter! John
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Frankie, I think there's something wrong with your link, as it comes up as 'page cannot be found' on my computer, however your clue to the site's existance led me to it and to the article to which Bruce originally referred, so thanks very much for that. The relevant part of the long contemporary description of the ship states, "She has bumkins for the four tacks, and swinging bumpkins for the clews of the mainsail, to spread the sail when going free in light winds. Her lower studding sails are triangular, consequently she has no swinging booms" Bruce, From that megre description I think I'd be inclined to fit the bumpkins, as you suggested, at the fore end of the main channels. The photo below is from a prior period, - the frigate Trincomalee of 1817 - and of a swinging boom - but it may be useful to you in showing one method of attaching the heel to the channel. John
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Sherry, His real secret is that the Admiral and the dog also sectretly help with the model making! John
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Looking forward to seeing your serving machine, Andy! Hmm, the weather must be odd; it's pretty cold over here too - oh, yeah, it's autumn, isn't it? John
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