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Jim Lad

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Everything posted by Jim Lad

  1. Just make sure that all that epoxy is properly dried before you ship her off to me, Chris. John
  2. Hello, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. John
  3. Welcome back home, Kev. As Chris said, set up your build log the way it suits you. John
  4. Hello Jose, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. John
  5. Don't know why you'd have a tackle associated with a topsail lift, Patrick. If you were going to use a tackle on the yardarm when maneuvering the yard itself, wouldn't you simply grab a tackle out of the bosun's store? By the period of your ship, I would have thought a shackled lift would be most likely. John
  6. Agree. Hard to nest boats on deck if you can't take out the thwarts! John
  7. Matt, rather than a hobby knife, I use a scalpel. The blades seem to remain sharp longer and they're comfortable in the hand (at least for me). The only caution would be not to get your blades from a surgical supply outlet - they're too expensive. You'll do better at a veterinary supplier of even a chiropody supplier. Some hobby shops also carry scalpel blades. John
  8. Amazing! I would have thought a movie about an archaeological dig would have limited appeal at best. John
  9. Don't know why I haven't picked up on this thread. That's a great start you've made. John
  10. Sorry Patrick - missed this one. Topsail yard lifts were usually standing - i.e. shackled to the yardarm band and the mast band as they were only required to steady the yard horizontal. Lower topsail yards didn't have lifts. John
  11. The Historic Naval Ships Association gives the standard width of sail canvas as 20 inches, but I'm pretty sure the standard width of canvas in England was 2 feet. John
  12. She really is looking first class, Jon. John
  13. Hello, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. John
  14. Hello Colin, and a warm welcome to MSW from 'Down Under'. John
  15. Hello Bob, and another warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. John
  16. Pat, even large and heavy as they were, I wouldn't think it would take much power to cant a lower yard. After all they were pivoted at the centre and should have moved pretty easily. It also wouldn't have been much work to tail a tackle onto the running part on deck if it was really needed. John
  17. Hello Paul, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. John
  18. Hello, and a warm welcome to the forum from 'Down Under'. What a great thing to get your father's model back, but how sad to see it in that condition. I couldn't think of a better project than to restore your father's work to its former glory. John
  19. If you're working in smaller scales, an old cordless kettle works really well, I simply put my planks in and boil them up in the kettle - job done. John
  20. Tubes work very well for macro photography. Their main disadvantage is that they have a very narrow fixed focus range which makes them a bit tricky to use on moving subjects such as insects. The depth of field can be vastly improved by 'focus stacking' - taking a series of images at different focus depths and then combining the images in a photo processing programme. John
  21. The classic method was to eye splice the ratline at each end and then seize it to the shroud using light line. A clove hitch is not a secure knot so would never be used in practice at the end of the ratline. Except at very large scales, eye splicing each ratline at each end becomes rather impractical. An alternative recommended by Harold Underhill (and one which works well in practice) is to sew the end of the ratline through the shroud. John
  22. Hello Henry, and a warm welcome to MSW from 'Down Under'. John
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