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dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Just curious - is this model commissioned for a private individual or a museum? You have a very talented team of craftsmen. -
Good observation! You actually cut your rigging by about 50% by not including sails.
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Those are fantastic upgrades Jason. The appearance of the rigging is greatly enhanced by the upgrade in blocks. For the fuzz, try flicking a Bic lighter over them very them briefly. The fuzz will quickly melt away. Do some practice ones off the model first though. After a while you'll get comfortable enough to do this on the model.
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If I'd taken the time to blog in addition to building the prototype Swan class model I'd still be building her! Not only have Kevin's modeling skills improved dramatically but his video work has progressed from amateur to pro.
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Good luck with those wales Alan. Oddly, I've seen models where these joints were so well done that, after staining or painting, they were no longer visible. Their solution was to lightly chamfer the outer edges
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Chuck in a tux? Or will it be a Hawaiian shirt?
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Congratulations on the completion of yet another fine build, B.E. A very clever presentation as well, saving you a lot of vertical space!
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When in doubt, do it over. Took me three times to get my hawse timbers to where I was happy with them. But each version went quicker. Having ruined a prior model with an electric sander I stopped using it. 80 grit paper will keep you from getting into trouble.
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For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.
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That model inspired me as well Chuck. I look forward to your take on furling sails. Are you going to add that cutter? I believe I'm going to retrofit one after my current project is over. It's sitting on a couple spare topmasts I believe.
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Tenoning those transom timbers into the fashion pieces and aft cants requires a tremendous amount of skill. Hats off to both designer and builder here!
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I rarely see the breast hooks fitted at this stage but it is a great idea!
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Lovely capstan Chuck. Personally, I'd go for the red. The natural color ghosts out against the background. The red would pop like the other fittings along the centerline of the ship.
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I have no dust collection system either Shawn so I typically do my fairing ourdoors. Obviously not ideal for your Nebraska winters but anything above 50 degrees was fine with me. If you're using cedar I think 40 grit is a bit aggressive and I'd start with 80. Repeatedly applying pencil marks to the frames will show you the low spots. Ultimately, the sound of the fine paper (220 grit) and running your hands over the surface will tell you when you are done. Start by fairing the midships frames then proceed to the fore and aft frames. If one frame still has pencil marks while those fore and aft of it are faired then re-evaluate the frame. If it was installed with an inward cant then all the other frames could be affected. In my Speedwell model I had to replace a fore frame for this reason during the fairing process.
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Well, that took considerably less time to frame than Pegasus I'll bet!
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Sovereign of the Seas 1637 by Tuvok - 1:78
dvm27 replied to Tuvok's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
That's fifteen years well spent Alessio! Welcome aboard and I look forward to future updates. -
I know what you mean Mike. Looking over the framing, knees, etc of Constitution and Constellation I am awed by both the size and fit of the massive timbers. That they were able to piece these timbers together with hand tools and simple rigging makes me marvel at their craftsmenship.
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That's a flawless collaberation between you and Chuck. If you were going for that contemporary ivory look you nailed it!
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Beautiful work fellow Greg. The oscillating spindle sander is one of my favorite tools. I also make extensive use of a mini light box to show the low spots when mating these curved surfaces.
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Great job Chris! It looks like those frames should fair in nicely. Your photograph reminds me of the famous Egmont model by John Franklin (Model Shipwright series) in which he assembles, fairs then separates the solid hull and reduces the frames to achieve the Navy Board appearance. His method is not commonly used (except by miniaturists) but seems to have many advantages over the way we currently build them.
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ancre La Belle 1684 by Oliver1973 - 1/36
dvm27 replied to Oliver1973's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Very nice rudder! I'm always surprised how small the French rudders were compared to English warships of the era. I wonder how much (if any) the steering capabilities were affected? -
It's looking great Clare. I found her sister, Speedwell, very easy to rig. As I recall the Wolf rigging plan provided was very good. As well, you can find excellent rigging instructions in our Speedwell, Vol. 2. She does have a rather nice lofty rig so your display space will need to double perhaps.
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I think silk rigging looks beautiful and I know many of the Navy Board models were rigged this way. I have also seen silken robes from previous centuries and they look fine (perhaps because they are preserved in a museum). But I now read that while silk can survive decades they start to deteriorate through a process called "shattering" (the short cross threads become unwoven) at around 60 years. Perhaps this appears in garments only and not laid up rope? But I am fairly certain that no restorer in 2300 will be able to replicate Johann's magnificent work here if the rigging starts to deteriorate.
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Spot on Chris. The rabbet transition is particularly well executed!
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What a delight it was for David Antscherl and myself to stumble upon this model after the NE Ship Modelers Conference. I have his books but the model in person is even more impressive. I wonder what Ed is up to now?
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