HOLIDAY DONATION DRIVE - SUPPORT MSW - DO YOUR PART TO KEEP THIS GREAT FORUM GOING! (Only 13 donations so far - C'mon guys!)
×
dvm27
-
Posts
2,457 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by dvm27
-
Mara thread - what colors do you use for fabricating ropes
dvm27 replied to Sterling59's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
With regards to color, what often begins as Manila hemp starts to deteriorate as soon as it is hit by sunlight, rain and salt water. As well, rope is constantly replaced on on a ship over time so it would not be wrong to show several shades of tan and gray. Standing rigging was usually tarred so darkish brown would be appropriate. If you're wish to be super technical regarding your rope, note the worming of the shrouds in the first picture. Even at 1:48 scale, wormed roped that is then served is smoother that non-served rope. But Archfoto is the only builder I've seen do that and it's way above my pay grade! -
Really? 3D printed, when it took me several attempts over three days to shape, solder and blacken mine? Your excellent model is just as scratch built as mine but has taken 1/5th as long to make it. Your bulldog is very well designed. A close up of his face shows normally sized nostrils so the classic brachycephalic syndrome common to this breed appears to have been averted. Well done, Doc!
-
Looks like you had a great trip. My last time to england (in the 1980's) there were a hundred or so Navy Board ship models in the Science and National Maritime Museums. Now, I believe 90% of them are in storage. Nice work on the deadeye strops/ Probably the best place for the joint is along the side just under the deadeye. Less pressure on the joint and it is hidden in the channel.
- 23 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- Speedwell
- battle station
- (and 1 more)
-
Just curious - is this model commissioned for a private individual or a museum? You have a very talented team of craftsmen.
-
Good observation! You actually cut your rigging by about 50% by not including sails.
-
Those are fantastic upgrades Jason. The appearance of the rigging is greatly enhanced by the upgrade in blocks. For the fuzz, try flicking a Bic lighter over them very them briefly. The fuzz will quickly melt away. Do some practice ones off the model first though. After a while you'll get comfortable enough to do this on the model.
-
If I'd taken the time to blog in addition to building the prototype Swan class model I'd still be building her! Not only have Kevin's modeling skills improved dramatically but his video work has progressed from amateur to pro.
-
Good luck with those wales Alan. Oddly, I've seen models where these joints were so well done that, after staining or painting, they were no longer visible. Their solution was to lightly chamfer the outer edges
-
Chuck in a tux? Or will it be a Hawaiian shirt?
-
Congratulations on the completion of yet another fine build, B.E. A very clever presentation as well, saving you a lot of vertical space!
- 332 replies
-
- 3
-
-
-
- Harpy
- Vanguard Models
- (and 1 more)
-
When in doubt, do it over. Took me three times to get my hawse timbers to where I was happy with them. But each version went quicker. Having ruined a prior model with an electric sander I stopped using it. 80 grit paper will keep you from getting into trouble.
-
For anyone else enchanted by this lovely model feel free to check out this video on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPCAArQ7APY. It depicts both of the Phil Reed's Speedwell models (Chuck's version and a Speedwell on a roiling sea). Notice the lovely catenary of the rigging, something I believe you can only do with wire rigging.
-
That model inspired me as well Chuck. I look forward to your take on furling sails. Are you going to add that cutter? I believe I'm going to retrofit one after my current project is over. It's sitting on a couple spare topmasts I believe.
-
Tenoning those transom timbers into the fashion pieces and aft cants requires a tremendous amount of skill. Hats off to both designer and builder here!
-
I rarely see the breast hooks fitted at this stage but it is a great idea!
-
Lovely capstan Chuck. Personally, I'd go for the red. The natural color ghosts out against the background. The red would pop like the other fittings along the centerline of the ship.
-
I have no dust collection system either Shawn so I typically do my fairing ourdoors. Obviously not ideal for your Nebraska winters but anything above 50 degrees was fine with me. If you're using cedar I think 40 grit is a bit aggressive and I'd start with 80. Repeatedly applying pencil marks to the frames will show you the low spots. Ultimately, the sound of the fine paper (220 grit) and running your hands over the surface will tell you when you are done. Start by fairing the midships frames then proceed to the fore and aft frames. If one frame still has pencil marks while those fore and aft of it are faired then re-evaluate the frame. If it was installed with an inward cant then all the other frames could be affected. In my Speedwell model I had to replace a fore frame for this reason during the fairing process.
-
Well, that took considerably less time to frame than Pegasus I'll bet!
-
Sovereign of the Seas 1637 by Tuvok - 1:78
dvm27 replied to Tuvok's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
That's fifteen years well spent Alessio! Welcome aboard and I look forward to future updates. -
I know what you mean Mike. Looking over the framing, knees, etc of Constitution and Constellation I am awed by both the size and fit of the massive timbers. That they were able to piece these timbers together with hand tools and simple rigging makes me marvel at their craftsmenship.
- 968 replies
-
- 5
-
-
- hahn
- oliver cromwell
- (and 1 more)
-
That's a flawless collaberation between you and Chuck. If you were going for that contemporary ivory look you nailed it!
-
Beautiful work fellow Greg. The oscillating spindle sander is one of my favorite tools. I also make extensive use of a mini light box to show the low spots when mating these curved surfaces.
-
Great job Chris! It looks like those frames should fair in nicely. Your photograph reminds me of the famous Egmont model by John Franklin (Model Shipwright series) in which he assembles, fairs then separates the solid hull and reduces the frames to achieve the Navy Board appearance. His method is not commonly used (except by miniaturists) but seems to have many advantages over the way we currently build them.
-
ancre La Belle 1684 by Oliver1973 - 1/36
dvm27 replied to Oliver1973's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Very nice rudder! I'm always surprised how small the French rudders were compared to English warships of the era. I wonder how much (if any) the steering capabilities were affected? -
It's looking great Clare. I found her sister, Speedwell, very easy to rig. As I recall the Wolf rigging plan provided was very good. As well, you can find excellent rigging instructions in our Speedwell, Vol. 2. She does have a rather nice lofty rig so your display space will need to double perhaps.
Our Emblem ®
