dvm27

I've had better luck with Brass Black but this is unfortunately no longer available. If any of the part you need to be blackened is soldered then the Sparex works great as a cleaner/etching solution.

Like everyone else here I miss Doris's work but you're doing an amazing job on this model. Count me in as a follower!

What scale will you be working at? What is the largest spar or mast you plan to turn? While turning spars and masts on a lathe are possible it is not quite as simple as you might think. You need to consider the maximum swing over bed. My Sherline has 16" so I can turn larger spars and masts. But, even with a hole in the headstock, the maximum diameter wood that can pass through is 0.040". If you are turning long spars or masts you will encounter deflection so a steady rest would be highly recommended. No matter which lathe you purchase there is a learning curve and it will take some time before you turn out (literally) passable spars. It is actually very easy (and satisfying) to make a mast with just a chisel or miniature plane (the Veritas mini-plane is fantastic). Depending on the period you are working in, masts and spars were not always round over their entire length. Many had octagonal centers and tapered ends. You may wish to look at Volume 4 of The Fully Framed Model, by David Antscherl, for a complete description of how to hand make masts and spars. It's actually easy and much less expensive than purchasing a lathe.

Very nice Jason. Get a Bic lighter and experiment with flashing it over the splices and bindings. It neatly removes much of the loose fibers radiating from the rope. Practice on some non-essential rope first!

That's a shame because the Preac motor upgrade is fantastic. Quite honestly, I use my Preac table saw more than my Byrnes. It never binds or scorches the wood.

In the US and Canada we have the Veritas Mini plane. After honing on a diamond plate and leather stropping one can remove eyelash sized shavings from wood. It is now my goto tool for shaping. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/70138-veritas-miniature-block-plane?utm_campaign=USA|DSA|PageFeed|Tools|LowPriceTier&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4nzO6oqLcoTrGhlXS0AtUbBIZp7pgIb9CxAkPUx80xbkGFnGMiAyBiQaAnEtEALw_wcB&item=05P8220 I am very much enjoying your build log

I'd be happy with any of the above. The French vessels have a certain elegance that, in my opinion, is lacking in the British ships of the period. M. Delacroix is a member here. perhaps he has some insight into future Ancre publications.

Ken, that was us (Admiralty Models). We closed up this year. Those were CNC turned brass which we got from overseas. Nowadays, I'd probably use one of the new 3D printed cannons that Syren Models sells. I'm sure they'll be available in the size you need in the near future.

I have the Proxxon thickness sander but needed a blade swap out. I tried but was unsuccessful to get the blades aligned. I sent it to Proxxon in the US and six weeks later they told me they couldn’t get the blades aligned. I was unable to purchase a new one in the US without a motor conversion. So I am using the old one which leaves a small score in the wood from an uneven blade. I finish up with the Byrnes sander. It’s really a fabulous tool and it’s a shame it can’t be purchased in the US anymore.

You might consider placing a garboard plank from the sternpost to the fore part of the stern deadwood. Then, add progressively shorter rows of planking above until the frame/deadwood joints are covered. Repeat in the bow section where, presumably, you have the same issue. I have seen some very lovely Navy Board models partially planked in this fashion. But before you do this please add some carpenters glue into the joints and run 120 or 150 grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain and see if some of those irregularities disappear.

We had lofted a sheer plan and frames years ago. We sold a few of them but no one ever built a model of her to my knowledge. It’s a shame because she would be a beautiful model!

The simplest solution, if you don't mind a bit of a compromise, is to end the brake pumps at the main deck. The bottom segment which protrudes into the well is invisible (hidden by planking and the mast partner).

I looked into my cross section to see if I had the same problem but my pumps appear to have the proper clearance. If not, I would adjust the carlings by moving them a bit and or mortising to accommodate the pumps.

I looked into my cross section to see if I had the same problem but my pumps appear to have the proper clearance. If not, I would adjust the carlings by moving them a bit and or mortising to accommodate the pumps.

I always rig from the front to back and bottom to top.

Congratulations on this significant milestone Johann. Having the discipline to fully rig all the yards will be paid back by rapid rigging of the rest of the model.

Bravissimo, Giampiero! That's the cherry on the ice cream sundae.

The key to these plank on frame models is planning ahead. In this case it's planning for the uppermost deck. By using the extended bitt pins you saved yourself a lot of aggravation later. Exceptional work Mike!

Make sure to apply pencil marks to the inside and outside of every frame. It is very easy to identify the low spots this way. Once they start to disappear switch to 150 or 180 grit paper and sand with the grain. When all the pencil marks are gone your hull is faired. I usually start at the bottom and work my way up. You should really have the upper sill in place when fairing.

You know, you could just scarph that keel joint and add the midsection and, if that goes well...

Your meticulous research and execution really shows up in the above photo. Not a waver can be seen on any of the runs of planking or moldings. Such a pleasure to watch this model come together!

Congratulations on a beautiful model! I'm stunned that you have made her into a coffee table. That wouldn't survive the weekend here after a grandchildren visit.

Nice video Kevin. I wasn't aware of the Hahn CDs. Perhaps they were put together by Dave Stevens? At any rate you need to consider whether you will rig her or not. David and I are making a model of a similar size ship for a Yacht Club and I can attest that, with rigging, she will barely fit through the doorframe of my workshop. I will need to purchase a lift to rig her! I'm sure your wife is very supportive of your hobby but is she willing to have a room dominated by a ship model and its case of this size? Will she be pleased with the cost of the glazing for this case? If she's to be unrigged her real estate imprint will be much more manageable (hallway). Hahn's 1/8"-1ft scale model of Roebuck is beautiful but I find it harder to work at the smaller 1/8" scale. Besides the vision difficulties it is much harder to make scale fittings at this scale. As well, there are those lovely carvings. Perhaps you should try a couple at this scale to make sure you'll be happy with them? Having built several Hahn style ship models I think you will enjoy the challenge. It's a bit more wasteful with the wood but you seem to have plenty. And there's nothing like the thrill of cutting the model from the jig. Do Hahn's plans have a scale on each frame? I've had no end of problems having plans reproduced at different scales without distortion in the X or Y axises. At any rate you will be busy for the next five years or so with this model!

I'm super stoked with the new deadeyes and sister blocks Chuck. They're beautifully proportioned and the details are much finer than the wood versions. I used the wipe on Poly satin finish and they look just like boxwood. Can't wait to see the other blocks as they are developed.

Looks very natural and tidy Chuck. Love the little faux splice over the cascabel. I tried seizing it on each side and found this quite difficult to do and with a much bulkier look.