dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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One of my employees was awakened by the noise of the crash and actually witnessed the collapse. She lives less than a mile away and felt her house shake. I believe Andy is correct in that abutments would have deflected the ship and probably prevented this disaster. I believe they are discussing dredging the channel to make it more compatible with today's modern ships. The Port of Baltimore is seriously outdated and they will hopefully use this tragic opportunity to not only rebuild the bridge but better accommodate deep water ships. -
Those small details are lots of fun to add but you'll never see them on the final model, especially when encased. But some future observer will be delighted when they use their home Target brand home endoscope.
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I ordered from the website two weeks ago and the order was promptly dispatched. But the order was for accessories/sanding paper. With regards to the actual hard goods I believe the family is still working on a plan to maintain the business but this will take awhile.
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Laser cannon bracket
dvm27 replied to mediocremodeler's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Good looking rope! Keep in mind that your model rope is cable laid (left twist) vs the actual cannon depicted which has right hand laid rope. Just a technical point but one that's fun to know because on every ship you now visit you'll be looking for the lay of the rope! -
Very innovative approach to the deadwood. I will follow with interest!
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What a wonderful teaching project Toni! I look forward to your takes on splices, rigging the blocks, etc.
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- rigging/masts
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Why not really commit Chuck? Our Speedwell was based in part on the Royal Caroline design. I'm sure your daughter would apperciate these furnishings.
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Don't forget guys, you can always rig Speedwell as well. Full rigging instructions are included in volume 2 of the Speedwell book.
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Nice job on the cupola Chuck. I like the dulled copper version and it suits your approach well (making a model of the NMM model).
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Speedwell was designed for shore patrol so overnight accomodations were not usually a worry. Your "great cabin" would have been occupied by a Lieutenant (she didn't rate a Captain) and I'll be he would have been thrilled with your ecoutriments.
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That looks much better! I noted the cheeks looked funny but figured it was the camera angle. I was about to send you a PM but your friend beet me to it.
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I have dozens of Speedwell NMM photos but curiously, not one of this area. I'm posting a photo of my completed Q'deck so people can see what you're shooting for. It's not as elegant as yours but should give people an idea of how it all comes together.
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Very well thought out Chuck. This a very distinct feature on the model and you are off to a great start. Maybe show a photo of the contemporary model so folks can see what you're after?
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That kid belongs on the Gerber baby food bottle!
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That is a dream workshop Gianpiero. I love the way your bench power tools slide out for easy access. And you have your very own museum to boot! Speaking for everyone else here - we're jealous!
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David Antscherl, in The Fully Framed Model, Volume 11, discusses this issue and concludes that either a grating or clerestory-style companionway would be appropriate for a 1779 vessel of 300 tons. On my Pegasus model I opted for the more visually interesting clerestory-style companion.
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Doing as much rigging off the model as possible is a great way to proceed Tim.
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That is a beautiful windlass! For those unfamiliar with drilling holes through round stock (especially metal) it helps to mill or file a small flat across the top of the round before drilling. This prevents drill creep. As well, if you can find a small enough center drill to start the hole that is ideal. They come as small as 000 (0.020") for example - https://www.msdiscounttool.com/catalog/product_info.php?csv=gg&products_id=79381&msclkid=3ac069efe4721a7a936a0c285f7a13fd&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP Shop - Drills %26 Screwdrivers (1) - %240-9.99&utm_term=4587780989952351&utm_content=79381 | 000 HSS Combined Drill %26 Countersink (Aircraft) | %242.64
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Loved the video! Is there anybody more enthusiastic about naval history than Grant? Whether for an audience of one or twenty he never disappoints.
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Which one is the best ropewalk machine?
dvm27 replied to modeller_masa's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks for the link to Lloyd's latest model. I note that all of the rigging is done in silk. In my opinion it lays beautifully with a natural catenary. Several members of this forum have disparaged its use due to potential deterioration and biologic degradation. I find it hard to believe Lloyd would use a material in his model that might disintegrate in the near future. As well, there are many contemporary models (and flags) in the Rogers collection in Annapolis with their original silk rigs and examples of silk garments from hundreds of years ago from the far east. So, my question is has anyone here actually used silk in making their rope? If not, is there really a concern that it will disintegrate in 50 or 100 years? Can we reasonably expect any rig, whether linen, polyester or other to survive a century without needing repairs or rerigging? -
Very happy to have found this log! I love the built up stump mast in post #2. Congratulations on a beautiful sectional model.
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Lovely start Matthias. While the framing is difficult the real challenge on this model will be the carvings. Will you do this by hand, CNC milling or other technique?
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Maybe the carpenters were using the hearth to keep warm while fitting out the ship in those cold winter months?
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When installing beams on a platform I usually install the fore and aft beams in their positions first. By placing a couple of planks across the span it is easy to determine the crown of those remaining intermediate beams. Their ends are trimmed until the crown touches the plank. I have also seen an adjustable beam length jig which measures the distance between the frames where the beams sit. But this is only as accurate as the marking out. Chuck's jig for doing this looks very simple. Mark - there is no easy way to do this. I'm sure most of us have a scrap box full of failed beams, frames etc. Starting with the longest one is a great strategy as you can always use it for another shorter beam if you screw it up. The platforms are the hardest ones to frame, in my opinion. The upper decks all have clamps which make placement of the beams very easy.
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I've always had trouble free handing those sheaves Alan. I just create a slot with the appropriately sized end mill then turn the sheave on the lathe, part and insert.
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