dvm27

Nice video Kevin. I wasn't aware of the Hahn CDs. Perhaps they were put together by Dave Stevens? At any rate you need to consider whether you will rig her or not. David and I are making a model of a similar size ship for a Yacht Club and I can attest that, with rigging, she will barely fit through the doorframe of my workshop. I will need to purchase a lift to rig her! I'm sure your wife is very supportive of your hobby but is she willing to have a room dominated by a ship model and its case of this size? Will she be pleased with the cost of the glazing for this case? If she's to be unrigged her real estate imprint will be much more manageable (hallway). Hahn's 1/8"-1ft scale model of Roebuck is beautiful but I find it harder to work at the smaller 1/8" scale. Besides the vision difficulties it is much harder to make scale fittings at this scale. As well, there are those lovely carvings. Perhaps you should try a couple at this scale to make sure you'll be happy with them? Having built several Hahn style ship models I think you will enjoy the challenge. It's a bit more wasteful with the wood but you seem to have plenty. And there's nothing like the thrill of cutting the model from the jig. Do Hahn's plans have a scale on each frame? I've had no end of problems having plans reproduced at different scales without distortion in the X or Y axises. At any rate you will be busy for the next five years or so with this model!

I'm super stoked with the new deadeyes and sister blocks Chuck. They're beautifully proportioned and the details are much finer than the wood versions. I used the wipe on Poly satin finish and they look just like boxwood. Can't wait to see the other blocks as they are developed.

Looks very natural and tidy Chuck. Love the little faux splice over the cascabel. I tried seizing it on each side and found this quite difficult to do and with a much bulkier look.

One strategy you might consider is making the stem joint first but leaving it slightly oversized over the mating surface with the apron. Once happy with your scarph joint overlay the apron on it and trace out the curve. This way you don't need to deal with the complexities of cutting and fitting the scarph joint over the apron. Also, if you are in this for the long term, consider purchasing an oscillating spindle sander and buy the finer grit sleeves. I can't tell you how much my accuracy improved following the purchase on mine twenty years ago.

I'm so glad you removed those hooding planks. The rabbet/stem joint is one of the hardest to plank but a clean line makes the model.

Your model looks like it belongs in the Naval Academy Museum. Well done!

A first model you can be very proud of Matt!

Perfect little replicas of both the one pounders and swivel hardware!

I completely forgot I included them on my model Chuck. At any rate some research shows that the pissdales were made of lead, copper or occasionally wood. There was a lead small discharge tube directly under the pissdale. This 1.4" tube would exit through a small scupper in the waterway. My discharge tubes are comically large. They should only be about twice the diameter of a treenail. The pissdale discharge scupper holes on my model would be more appropriate for a herd of horses. They were discontinued after 1765. I'm going to have to fix that now damn you!

Lovely and understated work Chuck. Nothing screams out "look at me" but the entire effect is extraordinary. I look forward to your take on those troublesome pissdales! I didn't add a relief hole in the external hull and I don't believe the original did either. But otherwise why not just pee directly on the deck?

Very nice workmanship on this exceedingly difficult area of the model to build.

I've seen this a couple times over the years and have come to the conclusion that he is clearly a bachelor!

Sometimes the rubber cement leaves a residue on my wood. I may be using a different brand than Druxey. Lately I have been using those white glue sticks that young kids use. It goes on purple and dries clear in a few seconds. It also peels off cleanly. I love the spindle sander for curves but I found that using a higher grit makes a cleaner and more accurate cut without causing the divits the 80-120 grit paper can cause.

I'm afraid you're in a world of hurt Dindsy. I would treat one of the lift lines with a 50% white glue/water solution and see what it looks like after it dries. But I'm not optimistic. Being a cross-section, re-rigging it should not take much time at all and I would use the opportunity to upgrade the blocks and rigging line to Syren Models products. Your second effort will look far better and you'll be much happier in the long term. Now, take a scissors and cut the main shrouds across the middle and you're committed to ship modelling excellence!

First off, congratulations on you wonderful carpentry. Your joinery would pass inspection if enlarged to full size. It'll look beautiful whatever you do but personally I would opt for the natural wood with a varnish.

Well, practice does indeed make perfect. It's super important to make sure the ends of the futtocks are the same width and flat over their mating surface with no gaps between them. If you have a Byrnes disk sander this is easy. If not you'll need to get good with a super sharp chisel. I wouldn't use the printed pattern to make the chock as the joint may vary slightly from the pattern. My process is to glue the two futtocks together on top of the pattern and allow to dry. Then place an index card under the joint and trace out the actual chock shape using a mechanical clutch pencil sharpened to a super fine point. Don't worry about the inboard shape for now. Now transfer the card pattern to the properly oriented wood and cut out. The chock should now fit snugly into the joint. Then you can glue it in place. Finally, after dry, trim the inboard face. If you are planning to build several wooden models in the future I can't stress enough how much the Byrnes disk sander (or Proxxon) will improve your work. It's an investment that pays off in accuracy and time saved over the years. Staetler Mars Technical pencil 2mm (780) and Sharpener (502)

I wouldn't sweat it. Nobody's going to notice 1/16" after the model is completed. As for raising them all at once or after completed there's really no right or wrong. On a full hull I usually install them in sections to get a feel if they are aligned more or less. Any minor inconsistencies can sometimes be cheated by adjusting the next frame. But on this cross section there is so little change in the half-breadth that it's probably not a factor.

Great repair Jean-Mark! One of the things I learned on my first plank on frame model was that my skills would improve dramatically as the build progressed. It is important not to "settle" for anything less than perfect early in the build or you will surely regret it later on. I also found that using 3X magnification loupes while working (regrettably 5-7x now 🙁) greatly improved the finished result. If you are happy with the work at 3x magnification you will surely be happy with the naked eye.

Tom, I like Chuck's method because it incorporates the round up. That might be possible on the mill but it's above my pay grade.

Like the rug in the classic movie "The Big Lebowski" it ties the whole thing together. Such a beautiful model!

How many lines were fouled and spars snapped while Ed was signing this delightful "prop"?

Lovely job on those fixed blocks Chuck. Cutting them in-situ would be stressful for most of us! Are the sills of the sweep ports to be left natural or painted red as well?

Love your approach to the swivel hardware. I hope your model ends up in one of the prestigious European competitions. It has Gold Medal written all over it.

We've all been there Johann! At least, hopefully, you can reuse all the fittings you've made. I'll wager these took a lot longer than fabricating the yard.

I struggled with silver soldering for some time until I found a system that works for me virtually every time. First off, the mini torch I was using did not generate enough heat for silver soldering. I have since had excellent success with the Blazer Torch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Z8KD3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details. More importantly I switched to silver solder paste from Euro Tools. It comes as soft, medium and hard so you can solder adjacent pieces. Otherwise I use the medium https://beaducation.com/products/silver-solder-paste-medium. I also use Battens Flux on the joint prior to soldering but I'm not sure if you need it with the paste. You only need a speck of the solder on the joint and you have to move the torch the second it flashes. At any rate if you're having unsuccessful solder joints more than 10% of the time maybe give this a try. Also, as Druxey has pointed out, it's best to place the joint on a linear plane.