dvm27

I have the Proxxon thickness sander but needed a blade swap out. I tried but was unsuccessful to get the blades aligned. I sent it to Proxxon in the US and six weeks later they told me they couldn’t get the blades aligned. I was unable to purchase a new one in the US without a motor conversion. So I am using the old one which leaves a small score in the wood from an uneven blade. I finish up with the Byrnes sander. It’s really a fabulous tool and it’s a shame it can’t be purchased in the US anymore.

You might consider placing a garboard plank from the sternpost to the fore part of the stern deadwood. Then, add progressively shorter rows of planking above until the frame/deadwood joints are covered. Repeat in the bow section where, presumably, you have the same issue. I have seen some very lovely Navy Board models partially planked in this fashion. But before you do this please add some carpenters glue into the joints and run 120 or 150 grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain and see if some of those irregularities disappear.

We had lofted a sheer plan and frames years ago. We sold a few of them but no one ever built a model of her to my knowledge. It’s a shame because she would be a beautiful model!

The simplest solution, if you don't mind a bit of a compromise, is to end the brake pumps at the main deck. The bottom segment which protrudes into the well is invisible (hidden by planking and the mast partner).

I looked into my cross section to see if I had the same problem but my pumps appear to have the proper clearance. If not, I would adjust the carlings by moving them a bit and or mortising to accommodate the pumps.

I looked into my cross section to see if I had the same problem but my pumps appear to have the proper clearance. If not, I would adjust the carlings by moving them a bit and or mortising to accommodate the pumps.

I always rig from the front to back and bottom to top.

Congratulations on this significant milestone Johann. Having the discipline to fully rig all the yards will be paid back by rapid rigging of the rest of the model.

Bravissimo, Giampiero! That's the cherry on the ice cream sundae.

The key to these plank on frame models is planning ahead. In this case it's planning for the uppermost deck. By using the extended bitt pins you saved yourself a lot of aggravation later. Exceptional work Mike!

Make sure to apply pencil marks to the inside and outside of every frame. It is very easy to identify the low spots this way. Once they start to disappear switch to 150 or 180 grit paper and sand with the grain. When all the pencil marks are gone your hull is faired. I usually start at the bottom and work my way up. You should really have the upper sill in place when fairing.

You know, you could just scarph that keel joint and add the midsection and, if that goes well...

Your meticulous research and execution really shows up in the above photo. Not a waver can be seen on any of the runs of planking or moldings. Such a pleasure to watch this model come together!

Congratulations on a beautiful model! I'm stunned that you have made her into a coffee table. That wouldn't survive the weekend here after a grandchildren visit.

Nice video Kevin. I wasn't aware of the Hahn CDs. Perhaps they were put together by Dave Stevens? At any rate you need to consider whether you will rig her or not. David and I are making a model of a similar size ship for a Yacht Club and I can attest that, with rigging, she will barely fit through the doorframe of my workshop. I will need to purchase a lift to rig her! I'm sure your wife is very supportive of your hobby but is she willing to have a room dominated by a ship model and its case of this size? Will she be pleased with the cost of the glazing for this case? If she's to be unrigged her real estate imprint will be much more manageable (hallway). Hahn's 1/8"-1ft scale model of Roebuck is beautiful but I find it harder to work at the smaller 1/8" scale. Besides the vision difficulties it is much harder to make scale fittings at this scale. As well, there are those lovely carvings. Perhaps you should try a couple at this scale to make sure you'll be happy with them? Having built several Hahn style ship models I think you will enjoy the challenge. It's a bit more wasteful with the wood but you seem to have plenty. And there's nothing like the thrill of cutting the model from the jig. Do Hahn's plans have a scale on each frame? I've had no end of problems having plans reproduced at different scales without distortion in the X or Y axises. At any rate you will be busy for the next five years or so with this model!

I'm super stoked with the new deadeyes and sister blocks Chuck. They're beautifully proportioned and the details are much finer than the wood versions. I used the wipe on Poly satin finish and they look just like boxwood. Can't wait to see the other blocks as they are developed.

Looks very natural and tidy Chuck. Love the little faux splice over the cascabel. I tried seizing it on each side and found this quite difficult to do and with a much bulkier look.

One strategy you might consider is making the stem joint first but leaving it slightly oversized over the mating surface with the apron. Once happy with your scarph joint overlay the apron on it and trace out the curve. This way you don't need to deal with the complexities of cutting and fitting the scarph joint over the apron. Also, if you are in this for the long term, consider purchasing an oscillating spindle sander and buy the finer grit sleeves. I can't tell you how much my accuracy improved following the purchase on mine twenty years ago.

I'm so glad you removed those hooding planks. The rabbet/stem joint is one of the hardest to plank but a clean line makes the model.

Your model looks like it belongs in the Naval Academy Museum. Well done!

A first model you can be very proud of Matt!

Perfect little replicas of both the one pounders and swivel hardware!

I completely forgot I included them on my model Chuck. At any rate some research shows that the pissdales were made of lead, copper or occasionally wood. There was a lead small discharge tube directly under the pissdale. This 1.4" tube would exit through a small scupper in the waterway. My discharge tubes are comically large. They should only be about twice the diameter of a treenail. The pissdale discharge scupper holes on my model would be more appropriate for a herd of horses. They were discontinued after 1765. I'm going to have to fix that now damn you!

Lovely and understated work Chuck. Nothing screams out "look at me" but the entire effect is extraordinary. I look forward to your take on those troublesome pissdales! I didn't add a relief hole in the external hull and I don't believe the original did either. But otherwise why not just pee directly on the deck?

Very nice workmanship on this exceedingly difficult area of the model to build.