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dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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My advice would be to remove the bulk of the material prior to mounting on the keel. But, as Druxey points out, you need to be super careful not to exceed the frame margins fore or aft. Thus, I leave 1/16" material proud of the bevel lines. Doing this on the table sander is perhaps not ideal. The reason is that the bevel is constantly changing from extreme to narrow as you go up the frame. If you're going to build many models you may wish to invest in an oscillating spindle sander, It is fantastic for outside and inside curves and for bevel work as well. You control the angle of the bevel, not the machine. with a little practice you can bevel very precisely and in very tight areas. As an alternate, consider using a Dremel rotary tool with their different sanding sleaves. You can remove the bulk with their 80 grit and progress to 180 as you approach the bevel lines. -
Fantastic video Giampiero! Silver solder will not work if gaps are present. Is this the same for resistance soldering?
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Very sorry for your loss, Rusty. I'll always remember Callie, my beloved Golden, leaving my workshop in the evenings covered in a fine layer of sawdust. Used to drive my wife nuts! I'd imagine many of us are at an age where we ponder if our next pet would actually outlive us?
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I believe that is a very workable solution Johann. It is, of course, preferable to use the contemporary model as a primary source but I think sometimes we take these models as gospel. It is possible that the original builder made errors, took time saving shortcuts or omitted details because of any reason you could think of that is just as relevant to us modern builders. Perhaps, being near the end of the rigging process he just wanted to be done and chose this quick and easy method to end the line. I do know that, in 150 years, someone making a model of your model will have the most complete and well researched Creole model ever built.
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Perhaps one could extrapolate from homes of wealthy people of that era? I believe that many contemporary mansions have been well documented and restored to their original colors based on paint samples.
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Brilliant work, Chuck! I love how you "blacked out" the underside of the deck. Your New Jersey club is one of the luckiest around with you as a Captain. What scale is the sectional model? The faux metal work looks like the real deal. I'm betting this sectional model will show up in your store at some point as who wouldn't want to make one as a fun side product?
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Kit review 1:10 Military Turbofan engine - TECHING (build review)
dvm27 replied to James H's topic in Non ship-related reviews
That is one cool model. I'm thinking of building one for my Grandson. He has just started on a path for commercial aviation and he would go crazy for this. Unfortunately, it may have the opposite effect on his parents! -
I just discovered your log Ian. Congratulations on building such a beautiful hull. Your take on the style, fully planked on one side, makes it unique as well. I look forward to future updates!
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I've spent a fair amount of time ripping out stuff and redoing problem area(s). I promise you that once she's in a case you will barely notice her. So what's another month or so in the construction time? The hardest decision is whether or not to redo something and once that decision is made progress is fast.
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How will laser cutters compliment our hobby tomorrow?
dvm27 replied to EspenT's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Yes, I enjoy working with wood as well but when it comes to making hundreds of blocks, belaying pins, cleats, etc. I think 3D printing is the way to go. Chucks 3D fittings look exactly like box or pearwood so I'm happy to use them. The limiting factor is, of course, preparation of the stl or other cutting files required to 3D print them. I feel that's a level of computer expertise beyond my aging skillset. -
They sell mini crock pots on Walmart. Plug it in and wait until hot and do as Tony says. You can unplug the crock pot when finished and keep the solution covered. It lasts for months.
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I use a 1:5 dilution. None of my blackened fittings have faded over time and I don't get the flaking and uneven coatings I used to get when I used stronger solutions. I can't stress enough that the fitting needs to be spotlessly clean and free from oils so I wear disposable gloves. I do suspect that some of the results depend on the specific type of brass you are using. Being an alloy, perhaps the proportions of copper and zinc vary based on the type of brass. I do note that since I have been using Sparex before etching my results are much more consistent. I've never used Pewter black for brass Kenny. I've always used brass black. Not sure what the difference is though.
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Here is a video link to Kudin's method of turning in the deadeyes. It takes some practice but worked well for me on my last project. Try to master the seizings as you'll need them for many aspects of rigging. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzVOOi3Eo5U
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Swan class 3D model in progress
dvm27 replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
perhaps you can post an actual rendering every once and awhile so that the technically challenged amongst us can fully appreciate the results of your work.- 141 replies
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Swan class 3D model in progress
dvm27 replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Welcome back Denis! I doubt that most of our followers are aware that you have further developed the 3D model with sails and ropes to accommodate gamers (where the big bucks are). I'm sure that 99.9% of them will not notice that your rope is laid left-handed vs the traditional right-handed method so I won't point that out 😉. Still, if you are able to reverse the lay with the simple click of a button I know you will do it as you are OCD when it comes to details.- 141 replies
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Try contacting Ben at the Midwest Modelers Shop. His e-mail address is TheMidwestModelShop@gmail.com. He has built a couple of Titanic models for clients and has many subscribers so he may be able to find you a model. You may also wish to check out Fine Art Models https://fineartmodels.com/titanic/. They have built the finest Titanic model at 1:48 but also sold 1:192 models.
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You should put a small ruler in your photos for reference. It's hard to believe the complexity of your work at this scale. I wish your log had an index because it should become the new bible of ship model rigging. Your split thimbles look perfect. Can you point me to the section where you manufactured these?
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Problems with blackening brass
dvm27 replied to Desertanimal's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I've had better luck with Brass Black but this is unfortunately no longer available. If any of the part you need to be blackened is soldered then the Sparex works great as a cleaner/etching solution. -
Like everyone else here I miss Doris's work but you're doing an amazing job on this model. Count me in as a follower!
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(inexpensive) Lathe recommendations
dvm27 replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
What scale will you be working at? What is the largest spar or mast you plan to turn? While turning spars and masts on a lathe are possible it is not quite as simple as you might think. You need to consider the maximum swing over bed. My Sherline has 16" so I can turn larger spars and masts. But, even with a hole in the headstock, the maximum diameter wood that can pass through is 0.040". If you are turning long spars or masts you will encounter deflection so a steady rest would be highly recommended. No matter which lathe you purchase there is a learning curve and it will take some time before you turn out (literally) passable spars. It is actually very easy (and satisfying) to make a mast with just a chisel or miniature plane (the Veritas mini-plane is fantastic). Depending on the period you are working in, masts and spars were not always round over their entire length. Many had octagonal centers and tapered ends. You may wish to look at Volume 4 of The Fully Framed Model, by David Antscherl, for a complete description of how to hand make masts and spars. It's actually easy and much less expensive than purchasing a lathe. -
Very nice Jason. Get a Bic lighter and experiment with flashing it over the splices and bindings. It neatly removes much of the loose fibers radiating from the rope. Practice on some non-essential rope first!
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That's a shame because the Preac motor upgrade is fantastic. Quite honestly, I use my Preac table saw more than my Byrnes. It never binds or scorches the wood.
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HMS RESOLUTION 1667 by KarenM - 1:48
dvm27 replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
In the US and Canada we have the Veritas Mini plane. After honing on a diamond plate and leather stropping one can remove eyelash sized shavings from wood. It is now my goto tool for shaping. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/70138-veritas-miniature-block-plane?utm_campaign=USA|DSA|PageFeed|Tools|LowPriceTier&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4nzO6oqLcoTrGhlXS0AtUbBIZp7pgIb9CxAkPUx80xbkGFnGMiAyBiQaAnEtEALw_wcB&item=05P8220 I am very much enjoying your build log -
I'd be happy with any of the above. The French vessels have a certain elegance that, in my opinion, is lacking in the British ships of the period. M. Delacroix is a member here. perhaps he has some insight into future Ancre publications.
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Ken, that was us (Admiralty Models). We closed up this year. Those were CNC turned brass which we got from overseas. Nowadays, I'd probably use one of the new 3D printed cannons that Syren Models sells. I'm sure they'll be available in the size you need in the near future.
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