dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Thanks for the illustration Johann but actually I was referring tp these beautiful eye splices )on the two larger trusses segments)
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How about the secret to those beautiful served truss eye splices? I assume you angle cut the served end to form the eye then seize over it? Mine look a lot clumpier.
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The care you take with every detail is evident in the overall photos. The appearance of perfection only occurs if every sub-assembly meets very high standards. You're building a beautiful model!
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Looking really good! Cross-sections require minimum tools so hopefully you can proceed without a full workshop.
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Spectacular, Keith! May your model remain dust free for eternity as that dark wood attracts dust like a magnet.
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Perfectly understandable Johann. Such a simple solution as well!
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Spectacular as always Johann. Do you have a method for figuring out the precise length of the double stropped served line required so that the eyes are the correct distance apart on the yard? I found this problematic!
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Well, when Chuck finishes the behemoth Speedwell he is currently working on he might very well consider working on such a project. I think it would be relatively easy to laser cut or CNC all the frames and build a model Reed (and McNarry) style. Of course with my crappy vision and decreasing manual dexterity executing the gilded carvings and fittings would be problematic but I would be happy with just a Navy Board version of one of his models. And, it would fit on a corner of my desk! Now let's all bombard Chuck with requests for this. He'll be delighted!
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So your panels are not built up, correct? Just lines penciled in and carved to shape. Extraordinary work Siggi.
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I wonder if when you started this project those many years ago you were dreading the carving that would have to be done eventually. Well, you are certainly up to the task!
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Unique and beautiful Giancarlo. I hope that viewers will appreciate the correct angled half lap joints you have made on the base coamings.
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Greg is unhappy with you for turning an extremely difficult area of the model into a "fun" diversion. A lot of innocent boxwood pieces sacrificed their lives in order for me to successfully frame that area. And then there was the errant elbow strike elbow... Seriously, brilliant work Chuck!
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I usually use five minute epoxy when fastening brass to wood. Haven't had a problem with glue adherence but you do need to be neat and remove the excess before it sets. Perhaps with the blackened PE items you should run the bottom surface against some 180 sandpaper to remove the blackening and give it a bit of a tooth?
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Yes, you can do that for .0006 cents cheaper on the Sherline mill.
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Those are some very nice items Cliff. Best of luck in your steam modeling endeavors.
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I’m enjoying watching your build Deacon. is it the camera angle or are the upper deck bulwark segments much narrower on the starboard side (frame 1)? With the grain orientation I’d be nervous about them snapping off.
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That was some fun. Bet you can't wait to do the other side! Two tips I find useful: 1. When drawing bamboo, run it through the last hole 2-3 times. Only one pass causes compression and not necessarily cutting of all the bamboo fibers. 2. When final trimming of the plankshear use a sanding stick that is long enough to level both the port and starboard plankshears at the same time. This will help insure they are level athwartship.
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Beautifully done Chuck. It might be interesting to show folks why using the sheer plan without expansion does not work due to curvature of the hull.
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Very meticulous instructions Chuck. Great tip about reversing the cut due to grain. Something every woodworker eventually learns. I am frequently asked which power tool I use the most. Without a doubt it is the Byrnes disk sander. You can do those heels perfectly in ten seconds and creating bevels is a snap with just a little practice. I would encourage any builder who plans on making more than just a ship model or two to consider placing this on their holiday gift list.
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Great tip Bob. I have found that a 50% white glue/PVA solution sometimes leaves a bit of a whitish crust on my darker rope. I'll certainly give the shellac a try.
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
dvm27 replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Well done on those hawse timbers. I found that cutting the air spaces on the mill was problematic due to the difficulties of holding the angled pieces securely in the mill vice. I actually mortised out these faces on the Byrnes saw. As the cut does not extend to the top or bottom of the hawse timber you always have two parallel faces contacting the table top. Then it's simply nibbling 1/2" from each or both faces of the timber. If doing it this way make sure to mark the top and bottom lines on the temporarily assembled timbers then disassemble and cut. -
Congrats on the purchase of the Sherline lathe, Mike. There are a million useful accessories but personally I find the 90 degrees angle plate and rotary table the most useful. You're going to have a lot of fun with it! The fore deadwood looks terrific. There's no magic formula for creating work like Mikes, Fred. It requires a dedication to perfection and to make each piece as perfect as possible. His tip about using light to see how tight the joints are is excellent. I don't have a window in my workshop so I use a light box. They're inexpensive (for example https://www.amazon.com/Drawing-Brightness-Adjustable-Animation-Sketching/dp/B07KLY84NB/ref=asc_df_B07KLY84NB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475857625827&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5262790266934135879&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012258&hvtargid=pla-748436973284&psc=1). Where ever you see light between two mating surfaces is a low spot. Use pencil marks to delineate the contacting surfaces then reduce these with a sanding block. Just sand a little at a time and use the light box after each adjustment. The other tip I can offer is to do all work under magnification. If you're satisfied with the work at 2-3 times magnification you should have good results with the naked eye. Personally I do all my work with a 5x Optivisor.
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I don’t know about Mike but I use an oscillating spindle sander on curved surfaces which are always cut a bit oversized to allow for the final fairing of the at the joints.
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Great start Mike. I’m looking forward to your take on this model.
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You got it. I inherited a ton of tools from my father in law who was a machinist. This bevel edged blade was amongst them. I had no idea they were so much more expensive than a regular bladed edge but the tool is fantastic for transferring lines from table to model. I put no finish on my models. Personal preference.
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