dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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EURYALUS 1803 by Peter6172 - 1:48
dvm27 replied to Peter6172's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Well done on those hawse timbers. I found that cutting the air spaces on the mill was problematic due to the difficulties of holding the angled pieces securely in the mill vice. I actually mortised out these faces on the Byrnes saw. As the cut does not extend to the top or bottom of the hawse timber you always have two parallel faces contacting the table top. Then it's simply nibbling 1/2" from each or both faces of the timber. If doing it this way make sure to mark the top and bottom lines on the temporarily assembled timbers then disassemble and cut. -
Congrats on the purchase of the Sherline lathe, Mike. There are a million useful accessories but personally I find the 90 degrees angle plate and rotary table the most useful. You're going to have a lot of fun with it! The fore deadwood looks terrific. There's no magic formula for creating work like Mikes, Fred. It requires a dedication to perfection and to make each piece as perfect as possible. His tip about using light to see how tight the joints are is excellent. I don't have a window in my workshop so I use a light box. They're inexpensive (for example https://www.amazon.com/Drawing-Brightness-Adjustable-Animation-Sketching/dp/B07KLY84NB/ref=asc_df_B07KLY84NB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475857625827&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5262790266934135879&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012258&hvtargid=pla-748436973284&psc=1). Where ever you see light between two mating surfaces is a low spot. Use pencil marks to delineate the contacting surfaces then reduce these with a sanding block. Just sand a little at a time and use the light box after each adjustment. The other tip I can offer is to do all work under magnification. If you're satisfied with the work at 2-3 times magnification you should have good results with the naked eye. Personally I do all my work with a 5x Optivisor.
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I don’t know about Mike but I use an oscillating spindle sander on curved surfaces which are always cut a bit oversized to allow for the final fairing of the at the joints.
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Great start Mike. I’m looking forward to your take on this model.
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You got it. I inherited a ton of tools from my father in law who was a machinist. This bevel edged blade was amongst them. I had no idea they were so much more expensive than a regular bladed edge but the tool is fantastic for transferring lines from table to model. I put no finish on my models. Personal preference.
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Every update you post automatically merits a hit on the Wow button. I was wondering if the opaque whitish color of the lower hull suggests the white stuff paint used in this period or if the painters will revisit this area in the future
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My only comment is that I despise you for making this look so easy! This section took me a month or so with lots of scrap pieces. I found the transition from the aft cant to the first full frame especially troublesome. I am compelled to point out, however, the horrific omission of a treenail on the fore face of cant number five. I'm sure everyone else is up in arms at this as well.
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Absolute perfection Mike! I am really looking forward to your next project.
- 607 replies
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Did you caulk between the planks with paper or a marker? If so please use a sample caulked piece to see if the alcohol creates any bleeding of the black! Running a razor around the sides might create a horrendous slip. I'd slot out a center section of the plank using a drill bit then start using alcohol on the joints. I'm always amazed how easy it is to debond glue with gentle pressure and a few seconds of alcohol.
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Those blocks are called rack blocks and they are very challenging to make and install. Lovely work Siggi!
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As close to a fool proof method of cant framing as I've ever seen. Amazing, Chuck! The blade on my machinists square tapers to point on the fore edge. It's super accurate for transferring lines from the building board. It must have a special name but I can't find it on the internet. Perhaps a machinist will know what I'm describing.
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Do they still have that magnificent model of he Royal George on display?
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Visually it is the run of the sweep and port openings that make or break the hull and your template shows you are right on the money. I look forward to seeing how those difficult cant frames blend into your system. Were you going to add fillers between the keel and bottom floor sweep? I found that expansion and contraction of the hull was constantly fighting me on this.
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Wonderful ropework, Monsieur. Are those real splices on the stropped blocks?
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- le gros ventre
- cargo
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Well that carving is certainly matches the quality of your work. Congratulations on owning an original Antscherl piece of art!
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Druxey is, as always, correct. Visually I found the angle looked a bit jarring on my cross section so made it just slightly off parallel to the keel.
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While I tend to build in a highly stylized manner I can certainly appreciate that your model probably comes closer to the actual ships appearance than any other model on this site. Truly inspirational!
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What works for me in these situations is to tack the two delicate pieces together or tack the assembly to a ply base using pinpoint drops of yellow glue. It only takes a couple of minute drops to tack the pieces together (like tack welding) and they are easily separated with isopropyl alcohol when finished.
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After all that tedious planking now you're getting to the fun stuff!
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Yes patience is key here...but dedication to excellence is equally required to achieve results such as these!
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
dvm27 replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Well done Stuglo! We watched your skill and confidence grow during the construction of this model and the result is someone that you should be very proud of. Look forward to your next build. -
Is this like lost wax casting where the original is destroyed or can you use the original for several castings?
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I have fond memories of making this model over 40 years ago. I believe it is sitting in my son's basement gathering cobwebs.
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I was wondering how you were going to finish those 3D figures in a realistic manner. Using them as masters for the wood colored resin makes perfect sense. 3D printing sure has come a long way. Is this kind of resolution possible on a home printer or is Chris's 3D printer some super commercial brand?
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Nice job Kevin. Preac makes a fence thats1/2" tall. If you can find one it makes cutting mortises a lot easier. Maybe an optical illusion but the first gunport (not the bridle port) looks a bit short.
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