dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Best of luck Bob! -
Congratulations on the end of a wonderful journey Chuck! Didn't even take you the full two weeks to finish her up. I'll bet you're already in the workshop catching up on orders.
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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We all know about the major sea battles but I believe I read somewhere that most of these vessels spent the majority of their careers without engaging in active battles. Beautiful work Glenn!
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Very nice job turning in those deadeyes and clove hitching the ratlines!
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- victory
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I hear they're pretty good, Kurt. Mary has good taste. I tried unsuccessfully to get Steeles Masting & Rigging book. For $5 it's the bargain of the century!
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Was wondering how you were going to handle this difficult area. it's like modeling a wave breaking on both sides.
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- winchelsea
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Brig Le FAVORI 1806 by KORTES - 1:55
dvm27 replied to KORTES's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
I beg to differ with you Kortes - there is plenty to show. Your meticulous lining out for the treenails and their placement is flawless. I'm guessing you'll need to touch up those wales after sanding the hull. -
That's a beautiful model Toni. I especially admire the fact that you have cast all the iron work yourself despite the presence of perfectly respectable items in the market place. Perhaps one day you'll come back and rig her when the mood strikes.
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Congratulations on completing video #100 in your Swan series! No one can complain that there is a lack of information available for building a Swan class model.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I'm not quite sure how Bitao did it but I used the rotary table in my mill. I don't have DRO and just basically tinkered with the setup until it was right but it wasn't a big deal. I assume Bitao uses a round file to form the groove in the middle and either a form tool or file to shape the exposed side of the deadeye. The deadeye is pulled of, reversed and inserted onto the holes so the opposite side can be shaped. -
I wish you could see the smile on my face Giampiero! You should slip a sleeping figure into one of the hammocks (out of site) for some future boroscope examiner to find.
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That's a very respectable frame for a new scratch builder John. Others have made excellent comments above and I agree with all of them. Do no fair the frames to the bevel lines. I do no pre-beveling on my plank on frame models. If you do so, leave at least 1/16" extra to account for the inevitable errors that occur when installing the frames. As well, use a digital caliper to make sure all frames are to speck with regards to thickness. Cumulative error is always waiting to get you! If you like tools invest in an oscillating spindle sander. It is the best way I know to shape the inside of the frame. You don't need the model with the angled table. Consider building a cross-section to get frame fundamentals down. Below is a photo of my swan class cross-section Pegasus. It's a great way get some of the basics of scratch building down.
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Lovely work Rusty. Sorry you were unable to attend our workshop and hope you make a quick recovery.
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- winchelsea
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
dvm27 replied to Bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I have never seen deadeyes made in the way you have Bitao. Drilling the holes in the square stock before turning the deadeyes to their final diameter solves several problems inherent in making them. Not only does it remove the need to make a special jig to drill the holes after turning the stock on the lathe but it also insures that the holes are correctly positioned along the equator of the deadeye. As I note Ed made them in the traditional way in his books I assume you have reinvented the wheel, applying the logic you display elsewhere in your construction. Brilliant!- 371 replies
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I do not bevel any of my frames until after they are installed and supported with fillers (which are later unglued with alcohol). During the beveling process the aft outer edge of the frame is reduced to Line 1. Line 2 represents the inside aft edge of the frame and chock after beveling. If the chocked joint does not receive a bevel the aft edge of the frame could break into it later. So the chocked joint must be beveled to prevent this. I do this on my mill but it can be readily accomplished by using a chisel.
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Don't know if it helps but all swivels on my Speedwell have the muzzle at 4' above the deck as well Toni. Looks right.
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Excellent, Mike! We were all horrified by your uncharacteristic 1/16" error. We'll sleep soundly tonight knowing that perfection has been restored.
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Not at all! After the workshop Chuck will be having a fire sale due to decreased rope sales.
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All rope is from Syren Ship Model Company. I have made rope but theirs is the best around in my opinion.
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The hull looks beautiful Kevin. On my current model I inserted the treenails dry into the holes with the stock in one hand and the flush nipper in the other. This makes quick work of inserting the treenails. After this I used a 50:50 white glue/water solution to paint over the holes. Once dry the hull was lightly sanded and that was it. I did not have a single treenail fall out using this method (which I also used on the deck). As you also use termite control and another finish that would additionally lock in the treenails.
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A small Speedwell update. The lower ratlines have been installed as well as the euphroe tackle and crowsfeet. On many models I see they appear oversize. At 1/4" scale though we should be able to approximate the 1" ratline and 3/4" crowsfeet diameters. For the ratlines I use Guterman polyester Mara 120 thread (dark brown). For the crowsfeet I used 6/0 Uni-Thread, dark brown. I tried 6-0 silk for this but it just kept fraying (such is the nature of silk). I must admit that making the euphroes with their numerous no. 78 drilled holes (there are nine in the main euphroe), setting up the euphroe tackle and rigging the crowsfeet was an exercise in patience (and frustration). I was so pleased with my first attempt until I realized that I had reverse rigged one hole and had to redo the whole thing. Onward and upward (literally)!
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Personal preference is key here Malcolm but to me a well tunneled deck or hull does not look like treenails were used until you get very, very close and then they are only faintly visible. It should be like "why did I go through all that effort as you can barely see them"? But they are there and you know it.
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May I suggest you apply 1-2 layers of Tamiya tape to the keel, stem and sternpost before fairing in the treenails. An errant swipe of the sandpaper can create scratches that are difficult to remove later.
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