dvm27
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I use mini LED keychain lights. They're lightweight and rechargeable. I just use Velcro to secure them to the top of my Optivisor. This keeps the beam centered on my work. Of course I have two, so one is always charging. - https://www.amazon.com/WUBEN-G2-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest/dp/B09WY6WBD5/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=25X8AWG6AVDIM&keywords=mini%2Bled%2Bflashlights%2Busb%2Brechargeable%2Bsmall%2Bkeychain%2Bflashlight&qid=1681702648&sprefix=mini%2Bled%2Bflashlights%2Busb%2Brechargeable%2Caps%2C120&sr=8-3-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRVQ3OVg2RThLMzlZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDE5MDUzMlJIRVBaRTFFUjhGQyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjk2MTIwMk9CUTBJSEMxQVA2TSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1
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HMS EURYALUS by Matiz - FINISHED - scale 1:56
dvm27 replied to matiz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Your pictures are literally worth a thousand words but we'll make do with "Hi". Perhaps someone could point us to another forum where you describe some of these construction techniques. Auto-translate works pretty good these days. -
I'm wondering if the top over bottom feature of the upper center pane has actually fallen off the original model? I'm thinking the upper lip feature should look identical to the outer panes as in the central light of the larger ship. To me the center pane appears to be missing the outer portion. Perhaps it was sandwiched and fell off? What do you think David? My holly is toning down after all these years and I prefer it now over the starker white. But the use of ivory in some of these models is well documented so you can't go wrong either way. Just a matter of taste. Fabulous work Chuck!
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Amongst the many things I've learned from your excellent log is to rig as much of the yard as possible before installing on the model. This takes some serious study and planning! additionally, worming the rope before serving really makes a difference visually and I suspect make the rope easier to work with afterwards.
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first class work as always. What did you use to set the footropes in position? Dilute white glue, shellac or some other medium?
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If you glue a small sacrificial piece behind the wood to be thicknessed you will eliminate kickback.
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Here is a link to the video he made for his Speedwell. It's...impressive!
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Thanks for the illustration Johann but actually I was referring tp these beautiful eye splices )on the two larger trusses segments)
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How about the secret to those beautiful served truss eye splices? I assume you angle cut the served end to form the eye then seize over it? Mine look a lot clumpier.
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The care you take with every detail is evident in the overall photos. The appearance of perfection only occurs if every sub-assembly meets very high standards. You're building a beautiful model!
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Looking really good! Cross-sections require minimum tools so hopefully you can proceed without a full workshop.
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Spectacular, Keith! May your model remain dust free for eternity as that dark wood attracts dust like a magnet.
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Perfectly understandable Johann. Such a simple solution as well!
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Spectacular as always Johann. Do you have a method for figuring out the precise length of the double stropped served line required so that the eyes are the correct distance apart on the yard? I found this problematic!
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Well, when Chuck finishes the behemoth Speedwell he is currently working on he might very well consider working on such a project. I think it would be relatively easy to laser cut or CNC all the frames and build a model Reed (and McNarry) style. Of course with my crappy vision and decreasing manual dexterity executing the gilded carvings and fittings would be problematic but I would be happy with just a Navy Board version of one of his models. And, it would fit on a corner of my desk! Now let's all bombard Chuck with requests for this. He'll be delighted!
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So your panels are not built up, correct? Just lines penciled in and carved to shape. Extraordinary work Siggi.
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I wonder if when you started this project those many years ago you were dreading the carving that would have to be done eventually. Well, you are certainly up to the task!
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Unique and beautiful Giancarlo. I hope that viewers will appreciate the correct angled half lap joints you have made on the base coamings.
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Greg is unhappy with you for turning an extremely difficult area of the model into a "fun" diversion. A lot of innocent boxwood pieces sacrificed their lives in order for me to successfully frame that area. And then there was the errant elbow strike elbow... Seriously, brilliant work Chuck!
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I usually use five minute epoxy when fastening brass to wood. Haven't had a problem with glue adherence but you do need to be neat and remove the excess before it sets. Perhaps with the blackened PE items you should run the bottom surface against some 180 sandpaper to remove the blackening and give it a bit of a tooth?
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Yes, you can do that for .0006 cents cheaper on the Sherline mill.
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Those are some very nice items Cliff. Best of luck in your steam modeling endeavors.
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I’m enjoying watching your build Deacon. is it the camera angle or are the upper deck bulwark segments much narrower on the starboard side (frame 1)? With the grain orientation I’d be nervous about them snapping off.
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That was some fun. Bet you can't wait to do the other side! Two tips I find useful: 1. When drawing bamboo, run it through the last hole 2-3 times. Only one pass causes compression and not necessarily cutting of all the bamboo fibers. 2. When final trimming of the plankshear use a sanding stick that is long enough to level both the port and starboard plankshears at the same time. This will help insure they are level athwartship.
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