dvm27

This is my tip, as an example of what you can do following:  "My way of seizing"     
Thx

 

You are correct. The ports should be parallel athwartships. Using a sanding stick as you are doing is a great way to insure this is the case.

You are correct. The ports should be parallel athwartships. Using a sanding stick as you are doing is a great way to insure this is the case.

Thanks, Shipman, for drawing attention to this lovely model. Congratulations to the builder for making a commercial kit into a unique diorama.

As usual, the party is over by the time I arrive.
Hope it isn't too late to add my compliments on your lovely model.

Sorry for returning to finished topics...I did this with the Bomb ketch because I decided to add sails. Technically the ship is unaltered and finished, but now with the lockdown I gave a try making my first diorama and sea. The ship's hull is unaltered, it sits in a recess in the water.
There is also a small dock to scale next to it. I am quite pleased, this was my first attempt making water 

I did not glue the bulkheads together until later. I placed a 1/4 x 1/4 batten on the deck and wired it down with copper wire. This pulled all the deck edges into vertical alignment while still allowing horizontal adjustment for squaring and gun port pieces. I cut a spacer to fit on top of the batten for gluing in the gun port sills. I am making this up but I figure that the distance from deck to port height is important for the guns to all line up and have a good deck line at the same time.
 

I made another larger spacer to set the gun port opening vertically. Then I ran diluted glue into the plywood bulkhead joints.
 
 

Not sure if this is correct but this made all my gun ports level from side to side. Perhaps they should match the camber of the deck instead?
 
 

Planing is faster than sanding.
 
 

I fared the plywood after installing the gun ports making things more solid. I came up shallow at the bow pieces so added more wood there and planed down again.
 

Fun part of sawing out plywood. I added extra wood for support first.
 

Finding the location of bow ports. Don't know how you guys do it.
 
 

I saw this in one of your posts here. A sanding stick long enough to be supported through a port on the other side. I am learning!
 
 

I made these ports tangent to the curve of the hull. I hope that is right.
 
 

A sanding jig from Micro Mark. My new best friend!
 
 

I put blue on the rabbet strip and stopped thinning the deadwood when blue started coming off. I went past the bearding line to get a good fairing. Hope this works out.
Still having fun,
Kurt
 

Hello,
Jaager, I think I did't need such a sliding table for my saw and yes, I have my fingers all the time in view and away from the blade
 
So, the first set of gratings is so far ready. But from these curves under the beam you did't see very much 😐 

 

Good morning.

A little bit of a chaotic weekend, but I did get some work done in between yelling at the television during the American Football playoffs.  Full disclosure: I've been a MASSIVE 49ers fan my entire life.  Here's me getting ready for the game in my bar:
 

 
  Anyway - on to the build.  Like many folks, my success with blackening has been hit or miss, and I always ended up having to do touchups or over-weathering to make up for the inconsistencies.  But with the success I had soldering the swivel guns, and how inevitably visible they are - I wanted to get the just right. So I went back to the basics on blackening by doing some MSW research and following Greg's (@dvm27) great tutorial post "Blackening Revisited" with all the steps.  Ordered some Sparex, stole my wife's crockpot warmer, and set up my station.
 

 
Needless to say, my results were MUCH improved. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
  The improvement was so good in fact (and I've had a good learning curve with silver soldering) that I decided to complete Re-do my Stove vent.  Here's a comparison with the old vs new:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I couldn’t agree more with Druxey and Greg. I’ve tried it before. Ammonia is a temporary bleach, but it’s not stable. Wood softener is also available in China, and I don’t recommend it either; while it will have some effect, it will damage the wood fibers and become brittle after drying. In addition to clamps, hot air guns and warm water are your best choice for quick and easy access.

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.

*UPDATE*
 
Managed to sand the epoxy smooth and is now in primer. 3M aluminium oxide sanding paper 80 grit and then 120 followed by 400 did the trick. Ready for paint now

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.

Great gratings Siggi. I learned long ago to make the gratings first to insure full borders on all sides. The coamings and head ledges can always be modified a bit to fit.

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.

The block and the pitch and tar rooms:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hallo everyone, lets planking the hull … I'll start with the keel plank. It is easier to build them at the beginning than to put them between the keel and the plank at the end. I also have more leeway for bulwark.
I build the keel plank in two parts. The part would originally be 23 yards long. Was it in one piece? I don't know, but it would have needed a big tree.
 

 

 
Plank by plank was glued. Some stealers were necessary.Alternating side by side of the hull.
The pictures show it.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
… a short break to planking the stern.

Thank you Pat, Richard and MCB for your comments, and thanks to everyone for the likes.
 
 
Pat - I think i have not been as good at polishing of late however my general process is machine finish, polish with 600 grit wet and dry, then polish with 1200 grit, then 2400 grit and then finish with Brasso liquid polish. I generally tend to accept that brass ages however if I really want to prevent this I use Renaissance, Micro-Crystalline  Wax Polish. A bit expensive but excellent for maintaining the shine for years.
 
Update:-
From an earlier post, Eberhard thank you - modified radar.
 

 
You may also recall that I doubted the strength of the shackle attachment to the turnbuckles. That is the lower end in the next photograph.
 

 
I proved they were not strong enough when rigging the bowsprit - Pinnnng!!
 
Although not as accurate I modified all of them as follows - old version top - new version bottom.
 

 
The mod involved using a vey small split pin made from .020" x .040" section brass strip.
 

 
They are now much stronger and when not subject to close inspection they look fine.
 
The bowsprit was rigged with .024" Beadalon clear coated multi strand steel wire. I bought wire guards to simulate thimbles and keep things neat.
 

 
The end of the wire was stripped, threaded through a 1mm ID by 1.2mm OD tube then through the wire guard and then back through the tube. The loop was secured with a drop of CA and then heat shrink tube was used to simulate the leather protective sleeve. The "large" file in the photo is a standard needle file.
 

 
I rigged the port side bowsprit shroud very tight to correct a slight bow in the bowsprit. This worked very well.
 

 
Until --------- after about an hour ----- pinnnng. The attachment to the hull was too weak and parted company. The small bracket had been soldered to a 1/16" spigot and then inserted to a hole in the hull. The solder failed. The bracket was attached to a 3/32" spigot and reinserted. Thus far this has held despite the tension in the cable.
 

 

 

 
The starboard bowsprit shroud didn't quite need as much tensioning and in consequence the hull bracket held (thus far).
 
The bobstay was rigged next, again with a fair degree of tension.
 

 

 
 

Nice set up on the mill! I suggest you mock up a rudder out of some cheap material. You'll quickly see what the final shape of the rudder opening needs to be to allow for the depth and swing of the rudder. It's very hard to visualize this from a plan as it usually is not a projected illustration.

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.

I agree with Druxey. I have tried ammonia and it did nothing additional but discolor my wood. Currently I use a heat gun (carefully) on wet wood and if you go slowly you can actually feel the lignin fibers relaxing. Also, there is always a degree of spring back so adding an additional 15-20% curve to the formers usually corrects for this.