dvm27

Ship builders always have a reason for everything. But could the reason for the eccentric bowsprit simply be to allow access to a central beakhead bulkhead door? In Doris's model the doors are offset so a central bowsprit heel would be possible if the bulkhead were framed differently. Curious!

You are truly an artist, Doris. Just noticed those elegant scarph joints in the wales.
 
Also love the work on your beakhead bulkhead. Will there be doors eventually to allow passage?

Doris had posted a video, long ago, of her sculpting the figurehead. It was her usual meticulous method of turning a blob of clay into a work of art by adding a bit of clay here and a bit there. I recall her spending several minutes fine tuning a leg and hoof that already looked perfect to me. No smoke and mirrors involved - just the same building up process she used for the smaller carvings. 

Ship builders always have a reason for everything. But could the reason for the eccentric bowsprit simply be to allow access to a central beakhead bulkhead door? In Doris's model the doors are offset so a central bowsprit heel would be possible if the bulkhead were framed differently. Curious!

Ship builders always have a reason for everything. But could the reason for the eccentric bowsprit simply be to allow access to a central beakhead bulkhead door? In Doris's model the doors are offset so a central bowsprit heel would be possible if the bulkhead were framed differently. Curious!

Ship builders always have a reason for everything. But could the reason for the eccentric bowsprit simply be to allow access to a central beakhead bulkhead door? In Doris's model the doors are offset so a central bowsprit heel would be possible if the bulkhead were framed differently. Curious!

Another day in the workshop has resulted in the boom now having a yoke and reefing sheave fitted. This sheave axle required no fancy machining as it is captive once the yoke is attached.
 
The first pic is for anyone who wonders how you get two parallel flats either side of a spar.
It's simple really, the sides of the bench plane are perpendicular to the sole therefore if you clamp the spar securely so it can't move at all then lay the plane on its side and plane the first flat you can then swap to the other side to plane the second flat, even if the blade is out of square with the sole the flats will be parallel because the error is repeated equally on the other side.
 

I'd be lost without the lathe, it's been so useful in so many ways in this build, the latest is the sheave axle in the mast. It's easy to put a bit of 6mm brass rod through the mast but how to secure it?
 
Solution, start with 20mm brass offset in the 4 jaw chuck. Turn down to 5.95mm then part off with 2mm of the original stock then a little bit of hacksaw and a touch of file and wet&dry and it's sorted.
 

She finally has her name.
She's named in honour of my daughter who passed away at 13
 


 

Amazing work on the ventilation cowls, Michael! I'd never have thought it possible if I hadn't seen it with my own eyes, and in brass, too.
 
Side-mount half-cowls were once rather common on power boats in the US. The "step" at the bottom of the doghouse here seems as if it would allow for a Dorade box-type drain arrangement with the outlet below the cowl about an inch above the deck on the side of the "step" on the prototype, assuming a drain could be run from inboard.  I've never seen them installed in pairs on the same side, which I expect in this prototype was in recognition of the fact that they don't work very well.   They are only half the capacity of a full cowl, so that's half the air flow. Because they are up against the cabin sides, the air flow is further limited. Finally, as the air circulation on a boat of this type is from forward aft, they aren't in a position to contribute much when placed well aft, especially next to a hatch that is frequently open anyway, although when closed up, they would allow some air to exit the saloon. This isn't any criticism of the model, mind you. Just observations about what is now a somewhat rarely encountered fitting.
 
I've seen similar brass fittings, e.g., bells and binnacles, gold plated to good effect. The result is a model that looks like it's brass is kept polished. If you know a dentist or somebody who works in a dental lab, they may be able to do it for you inexpensively. It's a simple process, as you probably know. It only takes a microns-thing coating.
 
Your photos are much appreciated. Before these, I would never have considered making cowl ventilators any way other than by casting or electro-plating a wax plug painted with metallic paint. Either method has significant difficulties and limitations. I expect if one were of a mind to do so, the flanges of two halves as here could be silver soldered together and the excess filed off to yield a full cowl. I vaguely anticipate that making a few of those may well be in my future. Outstanding work! 

Make an entirely new channel with the deadeyes spaced properly to avoid the guns yet still be in its original position.   It should be easy enough to make.  Just trace the channel and make new slots for the deadeye positions.
 
Chuck

I would concur with Greg, having just completed reading the book. The photography and reproduction is excellent (much better than the pics seen above!) and the text informative and exhaustive. Both Grant Walker and SeaWatchBooks are to be congratulated on a very fine production.

I quite agree with your review Bob. If this was just a coffee table book it would be magnificent. But it is so much more. Grant's extraordinary knowledge of these ships and insights into their origin makes it a fascinating read also. I encourage everyone to provide a subtle hint to their significant other that this book is the ideal holiday gift. You won't be disappointed!

I quite agree with your review Bob. If this was just a coffee table book it would be magnificent. But it is so much more. Grant's extraordinary knowledge of these ships and insights into their origin makes it a fascinating read also. I encourage everyone to provide a subtle hint to their significant other that this book is the ideal holiday gift. You won't be disappointed!

I quite agree with your review Bob. If this was just a coffee table book it would be magnificent. But it is so much more. Grant's extraordinary knowledge of these ships and insights into their origin makes it a fascinating read also. I encourage everyone to provide a subtle hint to their significant other that this book is the ideal holiday gift. You won't be disappointed!

The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models
At the U.S. Naval Academy Museum
Volume II
Third Rates
by Grant H. Walker
Distributed by: Sea Watch Books, LLC, Florence, Oregon
10” x 11.75”, Hardcover, 299 pages, index
      ISBN 978-1-7320162-2-4
 
   One of the most anticipated books to be offered by Sea Watch Books has finally arrived.  Grant H. Walker’s 2nd volume of The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models at the U.S. Naval Academy Museum, which focuses on the third rates in the collection was well worth the wait.

   With over 800 colored photos this offering is a visual treat.  For the sake of comparison, many illustrations are also supplemented by numerous photos from other sources, which include the National Maritime Museum archives and private collections.
   There are ten 3rd Rates in the Rogers Collection.  Nine are English and one is a rare Spanish two-Decker from the latter part of the 18th Century.  Mr. Walker presents these models in chronological order beginning in the 1660’s, and culminating with the El Terrible in the 1780’s.  They are fairly consistent in scale, and comparisons are made, which allow the reader to better understand how this class of vessel evolved over an extended period of time.  Considerable insight is provided in this respect.
 

 
    All ten segments begin with a table that provides specifications on the featured model, and, in most cases, compares the subject with establishments and/or comparable vessels built during that period.  It’s interesting to note that the model’s dimensions may be similar but not exact.  Walker points out that this is further complicated by the fact that the Establishments of 1706 and 1719, which set the standards for construction of many of these ships, are quite close to each other in many respects.  Confusion concerning the scale of these models often resulted in many historians misstating what rate the models represented.  This made identification all the more difficult.
   These tables are followed by introductions that discuss numerous facets of the model and/or the ship or class of ship they may represent. Interesting facts are brought to light concerning the men and political climate that influenced the vessel’s design.  In one essay the author shares the circumstances under which Fred Avery, the Naval Academy Museum’s first curator, discovered that model no. 34, possibly the 70-gun Monmouth of 1718, was a split hull.  A photo of this amazing dockyard model graces the dust jacket of this book.
 
   The first vessel discussed is an unidentified English 3rd Rate of 50-60 guns, which dates to the Commonwealth Period of 1650-1654.  It is one of the oldest dockyard models in the world.  The author immediately sets a remarkable standard for the entire book with magnificent external and internal photos.  These provide the basis for considerable discussion concerning historical construction techniques on the actual ships, and later restoration efforts on the models.
 
  This last item is one of the more intriguing aspects of the book.  As every model is described, it becomes more apparent that this is a dominant issue that often impacts these beautiful dock yard models in a negative manner. Much of the repairs on these two-deckers were performed by  modelers  in  the 20th Century  after  Rogers obtained each piece.  Grant Walker makes a valiant effort to identify this work and rationalize why modern-day modelers made changes to these remarkable pieces that were questionable at best, and, in some cases, amateurish, or downright wrong.  Walker also points out instances where earlier restorations or repairs also exhibit poorly executed workmanship, which is even evident to the untrained eye.    Nevertheless, Mr. Walker is quick to point out that these models are still true historical treasures

  While maintaining these amazing models, one difficult decision that had to be made was whether anachronisms should be corrected since they are part of the provenance of the model.  An excellent example is one of the jewels of the collection, the Prince Frederick, 70 guns (1714/15).  The author provides considerable insight as to how the final decision was made to make the changes, and what they were.
 
   Only six of the ten 3rd rates in the collection are referred to by a name, and even these, to some extent, can be questioned due to features they possess that are inconsistent with the specifications for vessels that were built during those periods.  Nevertheless, Mr. Walker makes a concerted effort to link these models with known facts.
    One excellent example is Model No. 8, an 80-gun ship of the 1690’s, which Walker refers to as “Associated with the Sussex of 1693.”  This pristine model offers a number of features that narrow its identity down to three possible choices.  However, there is one bit of evidence hidden in plain sight that would apparently remove all doubt that the model is indeed Sussex.  Nevertheless, Walker takes a cautious approach, and offers possible reasons for this not being the case.
 
   This mindset serves the author well and is evident throughout the book.  In numerous cases, when evaluating these models, Walker offers reasons why he disagrees with earlier experts such as RC Anderson, Henry Culver, Fred Avery, and C. G. Davis.  This all makes for interesting reading.
   The essays on all ten 3rd rates contain numerous interior images of the models.  These are the result of photographs taken with a fiber optic endoscope.  The model most subjected to this type of research with modern scientific instruments was the 74-gun Canada.  The author relates a fascinating story about how this pristine model was originally thought to be Triumph of 1764.  Through a chance occurrence, it was proven to be otherwise, and a lengthy process of detective work ensued.  The research would be aided, for the first time ever, by X-ray technology.  This magnificent model would grudgingly give up its secrets, only to present new mysteries.  The author refers to this British 3rd Rate as one of the most challenging models in the Rogers Collection to identify.  It was only after employing CT scan technology that a better understanding of this model ensued.
 
The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models, Volume II, features an oversized 10” x 11 3/4” format printed on gloss paper.  This book is a remarkable achievement and would be an excellent addition to the library of any maritime historian or model ship builder.
 
               Reviewed by BobF
 
 
 

The planking work above the wales on the starboard side is finished. I think you can see the difference in the newly purchased wood compared to that which was used for the first wale layer. It is much more even in grain and color. The most difficult work was shaping the planks that have both tabs and cutouts.




Mike

Very nice sheet-metal work on a type of vents that was new for me. The real challenge for me would have been the making of the hollow hardwood formers ...

Thanks for all the likes and visits.
 
I finished forming the 3 other dorade vents today.
The forming required 4 annealings 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
time for an afternoon nap with the kitties.
 
michael
 

another short update today I made a small 8 inch cleat to fix the topmast forestay.
A piece of 1/8 inch brass strip that was 1 inch wide was drilled for the mounting holes in the mill then the bottom was shaped while still attached to the strip. I made it the same way as this earlier one.
 

 
The new one slightly different obviously acquired from a different manufacturer. the screw were turned out of some of the home depot 3/16 brass rod it is free machining and I like to use the 3/16 because I can turn down to the final diameter in one pass because the work is supported as reduce the diameter. I ground the parting tool to the angle of the countersink. in order to cut the head. they are 0x80 threads
 

 
again the slot was cut with the jewelers saw.
 

 

 

 

 

 
It is a lot of fun making these small bits and pieces.
 
Michael
 

And the show goes on ...
 
The nascent ventilator was then transfered to the micro-mill for further machining. The mill had been set-up with the dividing head carefully aligned with the milling spindle using a round piece of cemented carbide.


 


Aligning the milling spindles


 
It was also fitted with the geared dividing attachment. The first machining step was to mill out the cowl, starting from the pre-drilled hole.


 


Milling out the cowl


 
In the next step the sides were milled flat. Finally, the vertical back of the cowl was milled round using the geared dividing attachment.


 





Round milling the cowl back


 
The top curve was ground on free-hand using a diamond wheel on the micro-sanding machine. The top cover was fashioned from a piece of thin copper foil soldered on. The excess was milled off in the same set-up as previously.


 


Shaping the back of the cowl on the grinder


 


Soldering on the top of the cowl


 
The boiler-room ventilators are sitting on a base that is square and then tapers into the round of the shaft. This part was milled and turned from Plexiglas, so that it can be cemented to the boiler-room skylight.


 




Finished ventilator and base


 
This base will be painted white together with the boiler-room skylight, while the ventilator itself will be painted buff. This separation into two parts will give a clean separation between the colours. By then I will also have to try to find out, whether the inside of the ventilators was red or buff.


 



Boiler-room ventlators on the boiler-room skylight


 
The handles for turning the ventilators are still missing, but I will drill the respective holes on all ventilators in one go, so that I only need to set up the milling machine once for this.

There is a dozen more ventilators to come, all of them significantly smaller than these two.

 

To be continued soon ...

Thanks Ken and Ben!
 
Well she's been freed from the building board. I removed the tape, the braces from the bow and stern, 
took the fore section and grabbed the starboard side, lifted and it rotated free with no issues.
I repeated with the stern section with the same results.
I used a razor saw to cut the top tabs of the frames and the flexed the center piece fore and
aft and it came free nice and clean.
 

 

 

 
I then glued the building board back together, added a couple of scrap strips the width of the keel and now it will hold the model again.
 

 
 
 

I am afraid i still like glass. Its heavier but easier to clean.

A dull blade can be an issue.  A zero-clearance plate will help - you could try making a zero-clearance plate with model plywood.
 
 
1. Cut twice:  Make a slight scoring cut first, just grazing the wood, and then draw the wood back, raise the blade, and cut through.
2. First place a sacrificial board down and then place your stock on top that, and then cut through both of them.
3.  If the wood is friable (I've never cut that species), you could give it a wash-coat of shellac (Zinsser Seal Coat, diluted).  This will harden the surface somewhat and will also keep the wood clean.  The shellac can be removed with denatured alcohol and/or light sanding.   Try on scrap first!
 
As for safety, there are a few things to keep in mind.  This saw is not particularly powerful, but a kickback is a never good thing.   Obviously, keep your body parts away from the line of cut. 
 
a. never cut warped or twisted wood.
b. never push wood through with the miter gauge while the wood is also in contact with the fence  --- ((re)move the fence).
c. if possible, make and use a sled that registers in the miter slot or against the side of the table.
d. never reach behind the blade - use a push stick - a common pencil with an eraser will work for these small saws.  
e. to catch small pieces,  cover the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner hose with cheesecloth or window screen - the vacuum will catch the small piece.
f.  avoid cutting thin pieces from a board close against the fence - put the board against fence  and cut the sliver from the wide piece.  

You are truly an artist, Doris. Just noticed those elegant scarph joints in the wales.
 
Also love the work on your beakhead bulkhead. Will there be doors eventually to allow passage?