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Need help with saw blade output

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I'm cutting Alaskan yellow cedar for myCheerful build. I'm using the sliding blade on my Brynes saw. Please look at the output in the attached picIMG_1152.thumb.JPG.615ae233a65a9092918c0036fe355508.JPG...very rough and splintery. These are small pieces with ...1/4" x 1//2"x smaller. I did some same size cuts with cherry, and they were slightly better.


Do you think this what to expect from AYC, or is my slitting blade the issue?

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How fast are you running the wood through the saw?  If you are moving to fast it can result in poor results.  Try moving the piece forward at a slow pace, experiment until you find the speed that works best.


A dull blade could also be the culprit.

Edited by grsjax
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Show us a photo of the blade and the aluminum insert plate.  If you have set up a zero clearance it should leave a much better edge than what you show.  Also back up the miter gauge with a piece of straight hardwood that will back up the piece being cut for a cleaner cut w/o the tear out you are showing.

The piece of wood can attach to the miter gauge with 2 faced tape.  The photo of the shorter but higher backing piece is what you need for back side tear out prevention.  The backing piece can be as long as you want to the left side - just make sure it's straight.

For zero clearance make sure the blade and the plate are matched - each width of blade requires a matching zero clearance plate.

Examples follow - first is too much clearance and next is correct clearance.


This shows too much clearance



This shows proper clearance - blade matched to the slot








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Byrnes sells new insert plates for about $8.  Lower your blade all the way.  Take out the old insert and put the new one in.  Move the fience over to cover part of the insert plate but make sure it is short of the blade's location.  Clamp it in place and turn the saw on and raise the blade up through the aluminum plate.  The slot will be cut by the blade and there will be a very close fit between the blade and the insert.  The close clearance keeps the wood backed up on the bottom side and reduces tear out and combined with the wood piece on the miter gauge no tear out on the back side of the piece being cut.

Always have the blade high enough so that the teeth are full exposed when cutting through the wood so the sawdust can escape (slitting blades have no off set and shallow tooth throats so saw dust can clog up causing overheating.  The blade should be high enough that it is cutting in a downward manner not just towards the operator.  Reduces the tendency for kickback.


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A dull blade can be an issue.  A zero-clearance plate will help - you could try making a zero-clearance plate with model plywood.



1. Cut twice:  Make a slight scoring cut first, just grazing the wood, and then draw the wood back, raise the blade, and cut through.

2. First place a sacrificial board down and then place your stock on top that, and then cut through both of them.

3.  If the wood is friable (I've never cut that species), you could give it a wash-coat of shellac (Zinsser Seal Coat, diluted).  This will harden the surface somewhat and will also keep the wood clean.  The shellac can be removed with denatured alcohol and/or light sanding.   Try on scrap first!


As for safety, there are a few things to keep in mind.  This saw is not particularly powerful, but a kickback is a never good thing.   Obviously, keep your body parts away from the line of cut. 


a. never cut warped or twisted wood.

b. never push wood through with the miter gauge while the wood is also in contact with the fence  --- ((re)move the fence).

c. if possible, make and use a sled that registers in the miter slot or against the side of the table.

d. never reach behind the blade - use a push stick - a common pencil with an eraser will work for these small saws.  

e. to catch small pieces,  cover the nozzle of a vacuum cleaner hose with cheesecloth or window screen - the vacuum will catch the small piece.

f.  avoid cutting thin pieces from a board close against the fence - put the board against fence  and cut the sliver from the wide piece.  

Edited by Bob Blarney
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Druxey...Thanks for the concern. I did not at all think you were being flippant. I was wondering if there was something in my writing that caused you specific concern. Actually, I've had, and used, this saw for years. I'm pretty darn careful. Honestly, the thing scares the crap out of me! ...and I give it due respect.

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10 minutes ago, druxey said:

Respect is a good attitude to have!

    Yes, kickback can actually be lethal sometimes!  Was in an woodworking class once where a full size table saw shot a good size sliver of cedar right into the stomach of its operator.  He was even wearing a shop apron, but the wood still went right through it to penetrate his intestines.  Infection from both the wood and clothing fibers set in and he died about a week or so later from that infection. 

    Better safe than sorry really is the way to go!  While it's true the Byrnes saw we're talking about here is not a full size saw, but why take chances, stay out of its line of fire!!! 

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I make by zero clearance inserts out of plywood of the correct thickness.   I guess i"m just cheap.   I also drill holes in the inserts so the shop vac will pull in as much of the sawdust as possible.  The picture shows one that hasn't had the holes drilled yet.   I find the holes and possibly some bracing under need the unit is need as the suction from shop vac will deform the plats downwards.



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