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Everything posted by captainbob
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Ratlines....why so important.....
captainbob replied to Script's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Does this mean that a ship built with stub masts is unfinished? Or a ship with some of the hull planks missing is unfinished? If ratlines are missing why is that any different? -
Quite a list, but what grabbed me was, "this looks like a job for..........."Bashman"!!!!! OH BOY! OH BOY! Can I watch? Can I? Can I? Pleeeease? Bob
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I have been gathering pictures and other information on the Hoga and her sisters for over ten years. The Woban class tugs were not all built at the same yard or at the same time or in the same way. I find a lot of variation in what was on the deck and where it is located. For example some boats had a raised grid in the stern and others were flat decks and the close-up pictures I have of the derelict, City of Oakland, ex Hoga, show the rusted gunnel supports as box beams without holes. Since there are some things I cannot know for sure I have to use information from my old friend, Best Guess. As for the angle of the gunnels, what I have done brings the gunnel in too far before the stern so I will have to try again. Bob
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1) The Gothenborg 2) The Half Moon 3) The Boulogne Etaples 4) The Trawler Syborn Four? Is that all you have partially completed now? Bob
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Tom, Thanks, and yes, it was fun. There is one long strip on each side that goes from the bow to where the orange clamp is. Then another piece that wraps around the stern. Thanks, John. It’s always fun to figure out how to do something you’ve never done before. Popeye, The Bulwarks are metal but must be thin. In the picture of the “ship in the air” you can see that she must have taken quite a blast from the port side. Looking near the bow even the hull is bent in between each of the frames which are 18” apart. I will be adding the bulwark supports which are spaced seven feet apart. By using 10 temporary supports I was able to angle each one 2 degrees more than the one before. In order to get the 20 degrees needed at the stern post. The 15 I will be fitting would have to be angled at 1.33 degrees. 2 degrees is easier. Also the supports are so small that they will be supported by the bulwarks rather than the other way around. Bob
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When will I ever learn? I forgot to add the bulwark supports to the bulkhead drawings. To get the bulwarks angle I glued on ten temporary supports changing the angle of each by 2 degrees. Then using card stock I made a template of the bulwarks. I removed the temporary supports and glued the bulwarks in place. Now I’ll fit the scale supports and a caprail. Bob
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Walter, Build a good looking boat and don’t worry about the deck getting wet. As long as the water doesn’t get inside you’ll be fine. You can keep the water out of the boat if you build up a high (1/2 to 1”) wall around the deck opening and seal it well, then build the cabin to sit down over this wall to hide it. Bob
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Thanks, John, and yes that photo was a lucky find. “…looks really smooth!” Popeye, that’s the advantage of painting the hull. Tons of filler. Yes, Keith it is fun to finally build a model I’ve wanted to build for years. Thanks, Guy. I was going to paint it all dark gray like the pictures of all the tugs at Pearl Harbor (see the last picture of my first entry) but I’m afraid it would hide the detail. So I’ll probably paint the hull dark and the cabins light. (see second picture) Bob
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Sorry, but I did it again. I got so wrapped up in the building that I forgot to take pictures. The hull is finished except for the rub rails, the prop and the rudder. The paint is a primer, I still need to decide on the color. Yesterday I found a picture of the Toka YT 149, one of the Woban class, being lifted out of the water which gives me a great shot of the prop and rudder. Guess that’s next. Bob
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Looking good, Walter. You’re just about finished. It will look good in the water. Bob
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John, What a lovely model. It’s been well worth the wait. You made it look so easy that we get the feeling that anyone can work at 1:96 scale. Well done. Well done. Bob
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Piet, She’s a beautiful cruising boat. Small cockpit and large cabin. I could spend many happy hours (days) on a boat like that. Well done. Bob
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When I know I will be painting the hull I do not take that much care in the planking and end up using wood putty (usually Elmer’s). First sand the hull then using something flexible like the cardboard Mark mentioned spread on a thin layer of the putty like you were icing a cake. After that dries sand off the high spots working for the shape you want. Depending on how dented the hull is you may have to do this again and again. As you work with the filler you will learn how. It’s like working with children’s clay, if it doesn’t come out the way you want the first time you just sand it down and do it again. Bob
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