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captainbob

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Everything posted by captainbob

  1. captainbob
    Michael, what a great touch with the torch. Last time I melted the end of a wire, by mistake, it ran half an inch before I could get the torch away. Bob
  2. captainbob
    In a place of honor I hope. Bob
  3. captainbob
    Thanks Keith, now I have something else to learn. Bob
  4. captainbob
    Mark, it is true that a large powerful saw will do everything you ask of it. But I bought a Ryobi 9” band saw from Home Depot for around $100, three or four years ago and have not been disappointed. Earlier someone mentioned the guide blacks and how rollers are better, the Ryobi has six rollers, three above and three below, so there is no wear or heat from blocks. No, I cannot cut anything six inches thick but so far I have not needed to. I have cut 3/4” Rosewood and 1/4” brass and I can’t think of anything harder I would need for a model. Bob
  5. captainbob
    That's what I've always believed and that's the way I try to build my models. Thanks again for the picture, one more step towards reality. Bob
  6. captainbob
    Thanks, Russ. Bob
  7. captainbob
    Nice looking metalwork. It's that sort of thing that makes a model really stand out. Bob
  8. captainbob
    What a great find. Bob
  9. captainbob
    Russ your schooner is coming along nicely. Oh, and thanks for showing that 1920’s picture. The attachment of the deadeyes to the chain plates is interesting, but what I notice is that the excess lanyard is not tied and bound up against the shroud but after a hitch around the shroud is allowed to hang down. Interesting. Maybe for easy readjusting later? Bob
  10. captainbob
    Russ, Keith, Thanks for looking in and for the help. If I used harder wood scraping alone would probably work, but the deck is bass wood and the scraper occasionally grabs the grain and tears out chunks. Or maybe it is just that the scraper is not sharp enough. Bob
  11. captainbob
    Pete, I think you're doing fine. The last time I moved it took me six months to get set up so I couold get back to modeling. Bob
  12. captainbob
    Three hulls - two plus one - OK as long as its fun. Bob
  13. captainbob
    Russ, John, Elia, Michael, Pete, Popeye, Thanks to all of you and to the likes. In my attempt to get the deck as smooth I planed, scraped, and sanded, probably no special order, I did them all several times. I think sanding was the last. Bob
  14. captainbob
    The mfg. says: CLR is a powerful formula available for dissolving tough calcium and lime deposits and surface rust stains from: • Tubs • Toilet bowls • Sinks • Glass • Chrome. Bob
  15. captainbob
    Michael you asked, way back in #170 <, if I was going to be adding any support at the edges where the planks but up to the cover board. The answer turned out to be yes and no. In most cases the deck beams were sufficient support but at the master beam the planks were so short I had to put in little pieces for support. Anyway now the deck is finished and I can move on to deck furniture, masting and rigging. Bob
  16. captainbob
    Several years ago, I thought of building a brass locomotive. So I joined the brasslocobuilders forum. I never built the locomotive but I still get email from them. This was posted today and I thought I might be interesting to some here. I have not tried it but it sounds good. Heading: “Painting Brass” Q. What recommendations do people have as to prepare a brass loco for its undercoat? The model is old, dirty & tarnished a bit. A. Soak it in CLR for about 15 minutes use disposable rubber gloves so you are not handling the brass with bare hands, after you take it out of the CLR, rinse it in clean tap water and place it into a drying oven, [old oven with a 60W bulb] when it is dry I then wash it in clean thinners and again let it dry, and then give it its first coat of etch primer [auto etch primer]. You can make a drying oven by using an old metal mail box with a 60W bulb inside. Slide the model in and turn on the light, close the door and leave it for 30 minutes to an hour. Keep in mind the CLR leaves a slippery coating on the brass; make sure you rinse it properly especially in nooks and crannies, or you may have problems with the paint not bonding. I generally use an old tooth brush or an artist brush about 1/2” wide. Bob
  17. captainbob
    I've done that too many times. "I better put that somewhere for safe keeping." That is often the last I see of it. Good luck in finding the Herreshoff. That should be a fun build. Bob
  18. captainbob
    I knew tights were good for something other than just holding legs in. Bob
  19. captainbob
    What a joy it was seeing this lovely cross-section come together. Thanks for letting us watch. Bob
  20. captainbob
    They are all lovely. How many do you plan on making? Bob
  21. captainbob
    Elia, Thanks for showing how you assembled the chainplates and deadeyes. It helped me with mine. Bob
  22. captainbob
    Had to do it. Have fun in Jasper. Bob
  23. captainbob
    Thanks for the extra pictures. She's a fine looking boat. Bob
  24. captainbob
    Comming right along and looking good. Bob
  25. captainbob
    You're weaving them yourself ? I think that would be a first for MSW. Bob

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