captainbob
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Thanks Pete. Nice to have you around. Jesse, that’s why I like this forum, I’m always picking up ideas for my boats. Bob
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Thanks Elia. The old saying, “Try, try again.” does finally work. Keith, yes it looks good but I’m not sure it’s right. This is what I did. I start by making my own deadeyes which I think are too thick at 2 mm (my lathe is calibrated in mm) and have flat faces. This allowed me to use the .020”, or 1” scale, brass that I had on hand. I don’t know how thick the edge groove is in purchased deadeyes. You might have to go down to .015” or even .010” brass which would be more to scale. Bob
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It's already looking good, it will look so much better on the water. I can hardly wait. Bob
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Thanks Popeye. Bob
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Russ, Michael, John, Walt, David, Keith, Nils, Thanks to all of you, and thanks to the likes. Long ago I was told by another modeler, “If your scrap bin doesn’t outweigh the boat you’re not trying hard enough”. As for the silver solder I used to enjoy it and I’m glad I was forced to use it again. Bob
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This show gets better all the time. You're on the right track. Bob
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Comming along nicely. Bob
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Ah, the problems we create for ourselves in this joyous game we call ship modeling. Now I needed to make the chain plates and deadeye straps to go with the deadeyes I made last week. That was the problem. I tried to soft solder the wires for the deadeye straps, but as I bent the wire around the deadeye the solder joint broke. I needed to silver solder. I had not silver soldered since I was a teenager. So I dug out a torch, some silver solder and some flux and melted a few inches of wire. Finally, like riding a bicycle, the memories returned and I soldered the rings. I bent the wire with the solder spot in the wrong place. Placed the wire around the deadeyes and fastened them to the chain plates. The more I looked at them the more I didn’t like them. The solder spots were harder than the wire and did not bend the same and as I forced them around the deadeyes the deadeyes started to fall apart. What a mess! So, as I had told so many others, it was time to start over. I went back to the start and made a new jig to drill the deadeye holes. Rather than evenly spaced I placed the holes, two on the diameter and one at right angle to them. I also made them out of harder wood. This time when I soldered the wire I used less solder. And when I bent the wires I was more careful as to where the solder spot was. These were much better. These I can use. So I did. I mounted them with only one pin at this time so they can pivit to the correct angle when I do the rigging. Then I will put in the second pin. The first two pictures are of the bad parts. Bob Solder spots in the wrong place. You can see the flats on the wires crushing into the deadeyes. Good parts Jig for shaping straps Good assemblies Mounted
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I’ve never built in plastic but I’m enjoying watching your Arethusa go together. Well done. Bob
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What nice curves she has. Please show us some more pictures from different angles. Bob
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- muscongus bay lobster smack
- Midwest Products
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Ah, what lovely curves she has. What a beauty. Bob
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Xebec by mij - FINISHED - 1:60 scale
captainbob replied to mij's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks like the eagle is about to catch the rabbit. Poor rabbit. Bob -
Walt, Thanks for letting me know about the pictures. I think I have them fixed now. Bob
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She's looking good. Can't wait to see her in the bottle. Bob
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She's a beauty. You do such fine work. Bob
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Nils, I'm glad after 10 years you remembered and finished her. You did a super job. Bob
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comming right along and looking great. Bob
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Popeye, Michael, Nils. Thank you all. Bob
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Nils, Ah yes, why? I could have bought them off the web for a lot less than the time I spent making them. I guess there are two reasons. First I didn’t have any the right size and didn’t want to wait to receive them in the mail. And secondly it was just to see if I could. Paul, glad I can be of help. Bob
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I found this plastic syringe at a drugstore in the baby supply area and have used it for years. I fill it with Titebond II. I had to cut a little off the tip to get the size I wanted. The orange cap is a protector from the end of a wire. Bob
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