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captainbob

Gone, but not forgotten
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Everything posted by captainbob

  1. Thanks Lawrence. That’s the great challenge of this hobby, to make the present build better than the last build. Bob
  2. Another option on the hoops is two lines from the gaff jaws tied to each hoop to lift the front of the hoop and keep them level when raised. I don’t remember the reference but I added it to the Spray. SEE HERE Bob
  3. For many years, I used both AutoCad and SolidWorks when I was working. Now I run DraftSight on a cheap Toshiba laptop with Win7 and have no problems. If you want to continue with DraftSight you should contact their tech support. Bob
  4. Making RC sail boats work rigth usualy requires thinking outside the box. Sounds like you have a winner. Bob
  5. I agree you need a vang to hold the boom down. And a clapper at the front of the gaff might reduce the friction. Bob
  6. She’s looking fine, John. Nice to see you posting again. Camera? I'd probably take the pictures and then leave the camera at the museum. Bob
  7. Congratulations on a job well done. Don’t forget to let us know when you start on the Spanish Armada. I’m unfamiliar with the use on unicorn tears. Bob
  8. The main thing to watch for is the focal length. Those that I have seen do not focus close enough for me liking. Bob
  9. Wow, So many responses. Thanks to all of you and to the many “likes”. Right now it is just pushed together. I will be taking all apart and will paint the wood white except for the barrels. The brass parts will stay brass. But I still have a few other items to make before I paint, such as the main cabin and the steering box. Bob
  10. Floyd, as it says in Per’s entry, there are different types of resins. There are some that will always be sticky even after curing to give them that necessary bond to the next layer. There are others that set up smooth and shiny such as some resin covered tables you see in diners. It will be best to ask the sales person at the hobby shop. What I used looked like the two bottles at the Hobby Town sight but was labeled “Casting Resin”. It had a shiny surface when it set. The only sanding required was to correct application errors. Wet sanding was best after 4 or 5 days of curing. Bob
  11. When you mix the "epoxy resin" it will be thick as the West Marine stuff. That is why I mix alcohol with it, to thin it out. That way it flows like paint. As for filling gaps it all depends on how large the gap is. Epoxies and resins are a glue, by definition, and like thin or thick CA the thicker the epoxy the larger gap it will fill. You might want to mix a small batch to see how it acts. Like paint it won't take much to cover a large area. Bob
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