wefalck

That could be an interesting proposition to imitate these ramshackle (litterally) arrangements. It will have to be complemented by a worn appearance of the boat overall, to look credible and not just like a botched-up modelling job 😲 Externally stropped blocks would be a lot easier to make ...

Actually, the three chain would not be visible from that angle, the would be too low in the boat I think 😉 'Spannschraube' is normally translated as 'bottle-screw', because in its closed form it resembles a bottle.

These would have situations and scenes in small-scale cargo shipping all around Europe (and probably the N-American continent too) well into the first years of the 20th century, when better roads and lorries replaced the boats. However, over here in Europe it was common to have a small coal-stove forward, which was used for cooking and heating. It is very easy to draw too much deck camber, I just had this experience myself and needed to correct the drawings for my new project. The camber also depends on how a boat is worked. Particularly when a lot of work is expected on the deck, less camber makes it easier to stand on deck. Also, when one expects to carry deck-loads, that is made easier with less camber. It's a trade-off between water-shedding capability and working convenience.

Nice ensemble! What's a 'drip' in this context?

Never though of using a tape over the table as zero-clearance 'insert', that sounds like a clever idea. While creating a zero-clearance cover with a table saw on which the blade can be raised, this is not so straightforward for saws with fixed blade (such as small PROXXON). Have to think about a solution ... perhaps just a strip left and righ of the blade.

It seems that a lot of of the combustion gases just blow out, rather than propelling the round. This would greatly reduce the recoil and make it 'softer' in comparison to a modern gun.

Very good recovery. I don't have Peterson's book, but believe that he based it on 18th and early 19th models in the Maritime Museum in Stockholm. There was no wire rigging at that time. By the end of the 19th century, after wire-rope had been introduced some 30 years earlier, rather than being taken around the deadeye, they were taken around solid thimbles. Normally, bottle-screws then would be used, but I gather they used a combination of old and new style on GJØA because bottle-screws can freeze solid, while with deadeyes and lanyards, one may still have a chance to tighten them. Also, they are easier to replace, when you don't have any supplies.

Fantastic results in obviously difficult times 👍🏻

Of course, it your model and you can do whatever you like to it. But be aware that others may follow bad examples as you are about to do. Rather than making test-rigs for historically inaccurate arrangements, the time would have been better spent on doing some research. Sorry for being a bit blunt and harsh, but I just cannot understand, why people are so obstinate to follow down an obviously wrong path. This plan view copied from above is obviously only a partial view and, as we don't have the plan, we don't know what the numbers refer to. However, the lines leading to nos. 58, 59 and 60 lead to some dots on the horizontal member of the bit, that I woud interpret as holes for belaying pins. If you drill some holes here and install some pins, you may not have necessarily historically correct solution (which would need to be confirmed by resarch), but at least one that is technically correct ...

Have a look at @archjofo's building log on his CREOLE. I think he serves 'ropes' down to 0.3 mm diameter on a shop-made serving machine. I agree, that most commercial serving machines seem to be too 'coarse' for such delicate jobs. On the other hand, @dafi recently used PVA to simulate (partially) served rope on his 1/100 scale VICTORY. A totally different route I have been using for served strops is silk-spun copper wire as used in high-frequency coils of old radios etc. For many years it was difficult to find, but as old-fashioned electronics and restauration of radios has become fasionable, such wires re-appear on the market again. I used inherited wires or stuff I picked up on flea-markets and consider using it for my next miniature project.

I fully agree with @Dr PR ... Belaying lines that have a constant load on them on these horizontal bits shows actually a lack of understanding of the functioning of belaying. As long as you keep the running end under tension, the friction on a belaying-pin, cleat or bollard from half to one turn of rope is usually sufficient to carry the load. This fact is used to safely undue the belaying. The final turn and half-hitch are only there to secure the rope when there is no tension on the running end. Assuming that a line comes running down from the mast, it woul have to go either a quarter turn or one and a quarter turn around the bit in order to arrive in a position from which you can pull on it. A quarter turn is not sufficient and one and a quarter turn is too much to be workable. When belaying, you would need to take the running end around the horizontal bit again to form a clove hitch, which is very difficult to do under such conditions. A clove hitch would be more or less the only hitch the works under such circumstances, but is difficult cast off, when there is tension on the ropes. So, from a practical point of view this is a no-no. Again, rather than copying the mistakes of other modellers, it is better to undertake some research oneself. I realise that the literature, both the contemporary and modern works, are weak on belaying points. However, there are certain common practices in any one country that do change much from ship to ship. Seamen were transferred from ship to ship and had to quickly find their way around a new ship and you cannot 'try' several ropes to find the right one at sea. So on all ships certain types of ropes were belayed more or less at the same location. This may vary, of course, depending on the rig and the size of the ship.

I am a totally urban person coming from totally urban backgrounds of all my ancestors 🤓. Perhaps, that is why I was always interested in such agricultural subjects ... The German (Technical) Museum in Munich has a replica of the first horse-drawn mechanical reaper of 1831 by McCormick: The basic operating mechanism for cutting has not changed much since. Anyway, back to the practicalities of modelling: for the leather driving belts I would cut narrow strips of thin paper of the apropriate width, lay them out on a (card)board covered with cling-film and give them a liberal coat of paint on both sides. When putting them around the sheaves, the seams can be hidden underneath the pulleys out of sight. On the prototype, the belts would be stitched together using metal clips not unlike paper staples. Sometimes they were also laced together. The belts were also treated to make waterproof, but I don't remember with what, as they shouldn't become slippery. Remember that the belts workd through the friction between the leather and the cast-iron and are not normally tensioned fully. The amount of pulley surface around which they wrap is more important. Such pulleys are actually not flat, but slightly domed - it may be counterintuitive, but this is what keeps them centered on the pulley. There are some videos on YouTube that show such belts in action.

I would toss those plans, don't look at what other modellers did, but go back to period written sources and perhaps period models (cum grano salis) in order to work out the proper lead of lines and a proper belaying plan. To me this seems to be the only reasonable solution. BTW, it is not uncommon that two lines that would have to be worked at the same time would go onto the same belaying pin.

Allow me to disagree. Unless everyone here misunderstood the question, I think all the answers are there. The problem may be that lines are not normally belayed on bits (see post #2 by @popeye2sea, unless the bits are provided with belaying pins. If that belaying point were correct, there may be a somewhat haphazard solution in coiling up the rope in a 'bunch' and wedging it between two lines coming down. That would be relatively secure. On yachts such bunches are commonly wedged between the mast and say its haliard coming down onto a clamp. Random image off the Internet of a rope tied up to a bunch. However, such a method would be more time-consuming to cast off, as first the bunch has to be untied. One would only use this for lines rarely moved.

'Just' rolling barrels at sea would be a major hazard ... all loads have to be securely fastened by wedging them in place, regardless whether they are stored upright or horizontal.