wefalck
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
SS Blagoev ex-Songa 1921 by Valeriy V - scale 1:100 - Soviet Union
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SiriusVoyager reacted to a post in a topic:
Sultan Arab Dhow by SiriusVoyager - Artesanía Latina - 1:60
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SiriusVoyager reacted to a post in a topic:
Sultan Arab Dhow by SiriusVoyager - Artesanía Latina - 1:60
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This is always the dilemma, when we are building 'realistic' (as opposed to 'artisanal') models: how to make it look rough without looking like shoddy workmanship. It can be quite instructive to have a look at what railway- and plastic-modellers do, though some tend to overdo the 'weathering' a bit.- 26 replies
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Lancha Chilota by JacquesCousteau – Scale 1:32 – Chilean Coasting Sloop
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Actually, unless it were one of those modern tourist-dhows, it is unlikely that the deck of dhow ever shone. They were built rough and treated rough in their daily life. Deck and planking of the real thing also would not be too regular, as wood in this part of the world is a precious good. These dhows were built from timber imported from India for important structural parts and cheaper and more crooked wood, such as Mango, was used for other parts. They had to make do with whatever lengths and widths was available.
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic:
Belle Poule 1834 by Kevin - OcCre - 1/90 - French frigate - started June 2024
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic:
Belle Poule 1834 by Kevin - OcCre - 1/90 - French frigate - started June 2024
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic:
Belle Poule 1834 by Kevin - OcCre - 1/90 - French frigate - started June 2024
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François de Saint Nazaire reacted to a post in a topic:
Belle Poule 1834 by Kevin - OcCre - 1/90 - French frigate - started June 2024
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Well, if I had the space, I would have a spraying booth, a photo booth, long benches with all the different machines set up as workstations ... 😁 Nice set-up anyway, gives you something to dream about at least.
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
spray booth cabinet
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
spray booth cabinet
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Talking about polyester threads and 'ropes' made from them: they are certainly less compliant than cotton, but also less fuzzy. I manage them by dabbing them in situ with a fast drying solvent-based varnish (zapon varnish). In this way you can hold them in place while the solvent evaporates and a drop of acetone makes them pliable again should you not be happy with the result. This works well on acrylic paints, but you may run into trouble with enamels (have not used them anymore myself for years).
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Soleil Royal by Hubac's Historian - Heller - An Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build
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Well, I was told so by my grandfather, who was in the German Imperial Navy. And my 1920s textbook on ship’s joinery clearly distinguishes stairs and ladders.
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Lancha Chilota by JacquesCousteau – Scale 1:32 – Chilean Coasting Sloop
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
BR86 Locomotive by Greg Davis - Hobby Boss - 1:72 Scale - PLASTIC
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
8 inch heavy gun MkII by RGL - FINISHED - Resicast - 1/35
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
8 inch heavy gun MkII by RGL - FINISHED - Resicast - 1/35
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Once you were washed over board, you didn't care about anything anymore, that was the end of it ... Talking about negotiating stairs, which were always inclined by definition, on a ship you do this always backwards when going down, so you can hold onto the sides and your centre of gravity is over the stairs. So, no need for hand-rails.
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Very professional looking indeed 👍🏻
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Nice Scandinavian-looking outhouse you built there 👍🏻 ... and the boat is coming on nicely. One can imagine almost an old Nordic/Viking ancestry at this stage of building.
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If there wasn't the messing around with the monomer resin. Hopefully, in couple of years or so I may have a dedicated workshop-room, but in the corner of the study in our apartment that is not such a good proposition 😞 The is also a steep learning curve to get to master the CAD modelling programmes, so I had some basic training in Auto-CAD a few years ago and regularly use my 2D CAD program. On another forum I am following a couple of guys, who model and print whole ships in 1/100 scale. Wonderful stuff they do. I am envious. On the other hand I would loathe to replace my 'historical' lathes and milling machines because they have become obsolete by this new technology. It took me years to build it up and now that it is in full working order it has become kind of obsolete in a way 😲 Well, at least for building 'realistic' shipmodels, perhaps not for 'artisanal' style models.
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I am not really familiar with skipjacks, but if they had plain wooden decks, why would you want to stain and varnish it? Some people leave bare wooden decks bare wood, but one could also apply a sanding filler/shellac to aid sanding or rubbing down with steel-wool.
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Ad 1: Brails on gaff-sails could only be used, when the sail was loose-footed, i.e. only attached to the boom by the sheet; you can't even use the brails with sail laced to the boom. Ad 2: My understanding of brails is that they were used on square sails to take up some of the weight of the sail when reefing or furling it; on gaff-sails they could be used to help furl the sail against the mast, particularly when rigged with a standing gaff; they were also used when sailing to adjust the centre of effort of the sail plan, to balance the ship on a particular course or to help tacking/going about. Ad 3: I don't really know, but as both storm-sails are smaller than the regular spanker, the hauling point would have to be further forward along the boom; their sheet could also be belayed at any convenient point, e.g. the rails; I wonder actually, why there shouldn't be any sheet for the spanker - somehow it has to be attached to the boom?
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Professional etchers use either a foam- or a spray-etching process to achieve uniformity across the fret and reduce underetching of the edges. One thing I will try one day is to laser-print the design onto so-called thermotransfer-paper and iron the design onto the prepared metal sheet. One has to make a sleeve from the thermotransfer-paper with mirror-images of the design matching up exactly, so that the etching takes place from both sides. This reduces underetching and allows surface etching (say rivets), if the two designs are made appropriately. The toner acts as the resists and one does not need a separate etching mask and photoresist covered metal sheets.
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Plexiglas (acrylic glass) is much harder and stiffer than polystyrene. It machines very well in comparison and keeps a keen edge. It can also be polished, unlike styrene, which comes handy when building skylights etc. I am kind of partial to Plexiglas, as I sort of grew up with it. My father worked for the pharmaceutical subsidiary to the parent company Röhm GmbH, the original manufacturer of Plexiglas. So we had easy and cheap access to it. In fact most of my supplies were acquired before my father retired in 1986, so the material above is probably more than 40 years old. A problem is that Plexiglas is not available in thicknesses of less than 0.8 mm. So, the 'structural' parts of the model will be made from Plexiglas, while the planking will be styrene - not ideal, because I would have preferred something stiffer. I could use bakelite-paper, which works very well for the purpose, but I want to engrave some of the planks (as one will see later on in the building-log) and that does not work very well with the brittle bakelite. Also, I would have to glue everything with CA, which I don't like too much.
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I wonder, whether there aren't any photo-etching service suppliers on your side of the pond that cater (also) for modellers? Over here in Europe we have several established in the market for years - I know one or two in Germany, the Czech Republic and Poland (the latter two are price-wise quite competitve due to lower salaries). I had a go at photo-etching myself a few years ago, but with mixed results. The main issues I identified was producing masks of sufficient black density with my printers and the primitive etching process in cuvettes I used. Even for the small frets I made uneven etching across the fret was a problem. Our parts are quite different from PCBs, because we have parts that are to be etched through (no backing board) and we also etch in different layers (surface etching). Most home-made PCBs are also unlikely to have such fine and dense details as are required for modelling.
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It begins to look ship-shape 👍🏻 You are in the same dilemma as we all are who try to depict working boats in their real condition: how do I reproduce the irregularities and haphazardness of the 'real thing' without the model looking poorly executed. A problem that our colleagues who build historic ships in an 'artisanal' style to show their woodworking etc. skills don't have. I think there is no problem in using different plank widths or varying shift patterns as long as the planking us such is done neatly. Even if boatbuilders have to do with the random material that is available, they usually take care e.g. to plane/adze the surfaces neatly with no plank edges sticking out etc. I observed this even at the rough beach-building places for dhows in Zanzibar. The irregularities have to be to 'scale'.
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