wefalck

Actually, it was not completely finished, I still have to arrange properly the glass case and some brass plaques …

I am pleased to see that my suggestion worked 😇 Looking at the anchor in the photograph, it looks quite 'shop-made' by someone, who did not really understand, how these anchors work, just roughly copying their shape. In theory, the stock is a bit thicker on one side of the shaft and secured from slipping through the hole in the shaft by a removable pin. When the pin is removed, the stock can be pulled through and rests flat against the shaft for storing, which is why it is bent 90° at the end. The stock also has a sort of ball at the end, preventing it from being completely pulled out. Your anchor is a very good representation of this home-brew version!

I think, Eric is right about the dinghy.

Thank you very much, gentlemen, for your kind words! @JacquesCousteau I have been trawling various museum image databases and national meta-databases in Denmark, Sweden and Norway with keywords such as jacht, jagt, jægt, schlup, slup, sloop etc. Unfortunately, German museums are not so advanced in digitising their holding, though there are meta-databases at Länder level in Schleswig-Holstein and Mecklenburg-Vorpommern. Vorpommern, Swedish Pomerania until the Vienna Congress in 1815, is now in Germany, while Hinterpommern, originally Prussian, is now part of Poland. I didn't have access to Polish database in this respect, though they do a good job in digitising their archival holdings it seems. The problem is also, that both parts of Pomerania were rather marginal areas with comparatively little industry and trade and thus wealth, so they did not attract that many painters or later photographers. In consequence, the pictorial records until the late 19th century are quite limited - at least judging by what is available in books and on the internet. @Bedford Such gratings do not appear on any builders drawings at that time. This may be a weak argument though, as they are not structural parts of a ship. My anecdotical feeling is, that they only appear, when wheel-steering became more common, even in smaller vessels. I could imagine, that they would not support much sideway pressure, as would be needed when handling a tiller (though relief tackles were common). They also do not appear on any contemporary models of small merchant vessels. Later photographic evidence supports arrangements as seen on the Norwegian jægt above. Many of such small vessels had a quarterdeck raised by a foot or so (a 'roof') with the skylight inserted into this and the tiller just clearing it. The helmsman would stand in front of the raised quarterdeck. However, these Pomeranian Rahschlups were characterised by a flush deck.

Cabin companionway and binnacle The layout of the access to the stern cabin is somewhat puzzling, even taking into consideration that accommodation in this kind of vessel was spartanic and cramped. There seems to be a skylight over the cabin that was most probably protected by a grille. However, it is just in the area over which the business end of tiller sweeps. The helmsman would have to pay attention, where he puts his feet. Rather close in front of it seems to be the companionway that leads down into the cabin. Unlike for the other deck openings no coamings are drawn. Normally, there would have been a movable binnacle behind the companionway, so that the helmsman has a good view. The binnacle at that time was constructed like a cabinet and would be lashed down to the deck. However, the space between the skylight and the companionway seems to be too narrow to accommodate this kind of cabinet. Details of the stern arrangements, original drawing by Möller (1846) By looking through contemporary paintings and drawings of similar vessels, I chanced upon a somewhat naïve watercolour of a local painter from Trondheim, that shows a combination of binnacle and companionway. It also opens in a somewhat unusual fashion, where a segment of the roof is hinged to flip backward – rather than the usual sliding cover. Not sure how this would behave in any kind of stronger wind. Not all the details and the perspective in the watercolour seem to be right, but overall, it looks credible. The whole arrangement is actually quite similar to that of the original drawing, also with the skylight right under the tiller, which actually is worked quite casually with ropes by the gentleman with straw(?)-hat sitting on the port stern rail. Anyway, I opted for this solution as it is unusual and solves the space problem. As a bonus I don’t need to worry about rendering the lashings of the binnacle. The Norwegian jægt HAABET (1849). Source: Town archives of Trondheim - https://www.flickr.com/photos/trondheim_byarkiv/3539132719. The companionway-binnacle combination was again built from laminations of laser-cut pieces. The main objective was to show the panelling. So, each side was built up from three layers, the outer ones simulating the frames with the cut-outs for the panels. The profiled coamings were simulated by adding two further layers. The collection of parts for laser-cutting Assembly of all those parts was a bit of fiddling and I prefer my usual method of assembling companionways etc. around a solid core milled from a piece of acrylic glass, but this obviously only works, when they are shown closed. To be continued …

The figure-of-eight knot is the classical knot that one puts on the end of line to prevent it from running out through blocks et. I learned this already 50+ years ago during my first sailing lessons. It becomes a habitual gesture to put one on, as soon as one has reeved a line through a block. This has not be confused with the 'stopper-knot' that was used to attach shorter lengths of rope to anchor-cables inboard to relief spills etc. when riding at anchor.

A 'waste' well used! When I had a (blond) beard for a while, I used trimmings from it to represent the stubbs on a winter-field.

Normally, one should get threaded rod from M3 (or imperial equivalents) upwards. Cutting such rods with a hacksaw is easy and one can use a file to bevel the ends of the rod so that the nuts fit over them. If you have one, you can also use a small triangular file to clean up the threads - they have the same 60° angle (or perhaps 55°, if imperial threads).

Consider it storm-damage ... sailors were good at fixing things while under way ...

I have used saw-dust: put some white glue on the sticks in blotches snd then roll in saw dust. When dry paint to the bark colour.

That makes perfect sense 👍🏻

As in the case of purchasing any kind of machine tool, it is useful to make a list of fundamental specification and capabilities needed: - Which are the maximum dimensions of parts I want to produce? - What is the maximum thickness of materials I want to work with? - What kind of materials do I want to work with? - What sort of operations I want to do, i.e. cutting out 2d-objects or sculpting 3d-objects (2-axis router vs. 3-axis milling machine) - What is the spatial resolution needed? - Do my objects have have to have sharp corners or can I live with or hand-treat rounded corners? Then also a list of possible constraints is helpful: - Do I have the surface space to permanently accomodate the machine ? (moving it around may cause alignment issues) - Do I have the possibility to vent out fumes? - Do I have connections for cooling water? (needed for some types of lasers) - When do I want to work with it re. nuisance due to noise produced by routers - How can I manage dust? 'Sculpting' with a laser in principle is possible by modulating the power and/or the lengths of pulses and the number of repeated passes. However, it always will result in charred surfaces and removing the charred wood form small intricate parts can be difficult, particularly when one wants to have the 'real' wood surface in the end. On the other hand, the laser works 'contact-less', which is particularly useful for very small and delicate parts.

Never heard the term 'guest-rope' before, but seems to make sense for something a boat crew could hold onto while coming alongside. However, in such a case, I would have expected the hope to be running more or less horizontally, while on virtually all the pictures one end is tied up to the bottle-screws or thereabouts. I know that yachts-people sometimes jump ashore and grab the shrouds to pull their boat towards the quay, but I am not so sure that would work for a 150 ton schooner. Otherwise the 'guest-rope' could help in such endeavour. However, I would rather expect one man to jump ashore and another throwing the mooring line to him, with which the ship could be coerced more safely towards the quay. A puzzle ...

He doesn't take a breath before starting a new project ... Good thing that this is a historic ship, otherwise one would wonder, whether it would stay afloat long enough to complete the model 😲

The darker colour shows that the linesee oil penetrates deeper, while the water-based sealer stays more on the surface. The oil penetrates into the pores and acts as a kind light conduit deeper into the wood, similar to fibre optics, so less light is reflected and hence the wood appears darker. Water-based sealers do not penetrate so well, as wood is naturally somewhat hydrophobic, even wood that does not contain much resin, like cherry. That's why I am still using solvent-based sealers ... as long as one can get them.