wefalck
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druxey reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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paul ron reacted to a post in a topic:
removing ca glued rigging
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Nightdive reacted to a post in a topic:
Did 18th and 19th century ships have flat weatherdecks?
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
removing ca glued rigging
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Keith Black reacted to a post in a topic:
removing ca glued rigging
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removing ca glued rigging
wefalck replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Actually, nail-polish smells aromatic not toxic - the son of organic chemist talking -
Jack12477 reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Your metal work looks just so good and convincing 👍🏻 If I am not mistaken, Tufnol is a kind of cotton-fabric reinforced phenolic resin (Bakelite). It also goes by the trade name of Novotex, for instance. It is normally a kind of reddish mid-brown. It is light, wear-resistant (in the former GDR car-make Trabant, some of the transmission gears were made from it, as well as parts of the bodywork), and weather-resistant. On yachts, block-sheaves and -shells are made from it.
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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removing ca glued rigging
wefalck replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Keep in mind, that there are now two fundamentally different types of nail-varnish: the traditional, organic-solvent based one and the newer, acrylic emulsion-based ones. Both require different solvents. -
wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Eric McKee’s 10 ft clinker workboat by Kenchington - Scale 1:12 – Card half-model reproduced as full-hull in wood
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Timber !!!!!
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Sitting on that pin must not be very comfortable …
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I had a quick look at my photographs of her in the museum and that is exactly the arrangement: One can only guess that the helmsman stood behind the deckshouse and 'rained his horses' from there with the endless tackle.
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removing ca glued rigging
wefalck replied to Lost and Confused's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Use fast-drying solvent-based varnish to secure knots etc. Not as messy as CA cement and can be softened any time with the appropriate solvent or acetone. -
wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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1:192 is going to be an interesting scale for a rigged model. It sort of falls between the scales at which you can more or less fake actual rigging practice and the 'miniaturists' scale, where you have to 'fake' everything in the sense that you have visually correct impression, but no functionality. Having to face this challenge in the not too distant future in 1:160 scale, I will follow that REDJACKET project as well.
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Was there a particular reason, why she had an octogonal pilothouse? It looks rather cramped.
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
J H Crawford by LJP (Lawrence Paplham) - Scale 1:64 - an 1894 to 1898 Wisconsin sternwheeler
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Billy 1938 by Keith Black - 1:120 Scale - Homemade Sternwheeler
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You are right, information on pumps for 19th century small ships or boats is rather scarce. The archive of the naval dockyard in Copenhagen has a couple of drawings. I didn't check other sources, as I am currently interested in a vessel from the Baltic. Pumps made from copper tubes along the lines of the galvanise iron one you showed above were available since the 18th century at least e.g. to flush the seats of ease on large ships and for a wide variety of domestic uses. There is no reason, why such pump couldn't be used as bilge-pump. Otherwise, bored-out tree-trunks (probably mainly elm, but also oak or even fir for simple applications) were common and could be produced with a minimum of tooling. Since Roman times water-supply pipes were made like this. They could be also formed from two pieces of timber, banded together and bored out, but I think a tree-trunk was cheaper and less work. An auger basically would guide itself in a straight-grown trunk. In the case of sawn timber one never knows. Looking at the cross-section of your boat, I would think that the pump must have been located near the front end of the cockpit, but I didn't check, whether anything would be in the way of it there.
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Didn’t I mention in an earlier reply that those scraped and oiled/varnished strakes were common in N-Europe between the 1820s and 1860s, when all black became the fashion. Norway may have held on longer to the old fashion.
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
Copper plate overlapping (< > 1794) - lower overlaps upper or vice versa?
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
St Roch by Lecrenb - 1:48 scale - RCMP Schooner rigged as schooner c. 1930/35
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wefalck reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Cape (MSI-2) by Dr PR - 1:48 - Inshore Minesweeper
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Nice work on the air-intake and cradles indeed 👍🏻 I am wondering, whether your L-profile was really acrylic ? I have never heard of such small acrylics profiles and most importantly, acrylic is normally too brittle for cold-bending. After bending acrylics (and polystyrene) one should temper it to allow the molecules to re-arrange themselves and thus to take out the shape-memory. Also in the case of acrylic this warm bending can lead otherwise to something that is called stress corrosion cracking. These are very fine cracks that are forming over time. In small painted parts this doesn't matter too much, but it looks not nice on translucent parts. One can do this in a baking oven at 50°C keeping the parts over the former. You re-heating with the hairdryer presumably the same effect. For warm-bending I am using an electrical 're-flow' hot-air soldering gun. The temperature can be set in the range between 80°C and 450°C. Apart from the intended use for touchless soldering, it is useful for all sorts of targetted heating procedures at a fixed maximum temperature, say for tempering hardened steel parts, for blueing metals, bending planks, shrink-fitting, or pre-heating parts for silver-soldering in order to save gas from the torch. I got mine years ago for something like 120€ from ebay.
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Resin ice effects
wefalck replied to JKC27's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I am using a similar technique for ice as for water that I developed back in the early 1980s or so, albeit with somewhat different materials available then. Basically I glue a sheet of acrylic (perhaps 2 or 3 mm thick) onto a wooden base. There is a cut-out for the (waterline-)model, which has to extend beneath the waterline by the thickness of the acrylic glass.. This wooden base has been painted appropriately to represent the water under the ice-sheet. The acrylic glass is then given a coat of acrylic gel-medium to represent the somewhat irregular water/ice surface. Snow on the ice can be represented by glueing 'micro-balloons', crushed glass (can be bought in hobby stores I think - my supply still comes from my teenage railway model days), or crystalline sugar(!) onto it. This is a good strategy for closed ice-sheets or what is called 'pancake' ice. If you want larger ice-floes, you have to glue with acrylic gel-medium very thin pieces of broken glass (use gloves and pliers and goggles) or acrylic glass before covering everything in the gel-medium. Below is a scene of a Zuiderzee-botter frozen-in that I created some ten years ago: Unfortunately, I don't seem to have taken pictures of the actual process. The scene was based on this picture that I took in Enkhuizen in 2009: It is, indeed, important to study photographs of the situation you want to create.
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Cutters, Choppers, Guillotines, Slicers
wefalck replied to MintGum's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
These chop-saws seem to be copies of the PROXXON KG50, which they offered for many years and is currently priced at 110€ here in Europe. More recently they also offered a heavier version the KGS80, which kost 270€. On the actual topic of this thread: I would rather use a circular saw than a guillotine on materials thicker than a couple of millimeters, particular hardwoods. This ensures square ends.
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