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wefalck

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About wefalck

  • Birthday 05/01/1956

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  • Website URL
    http://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Paris, France
  • Interests
    19th shipbuilding and naval history, indigeneous boats and their history

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  1. These vertical boilers seem to have been very economical on coal (and space), which is one of the reasons they were used in various maritime and industrial applications. The volume of water was quite small, allowing to raise steam quickly (important e.g. for fire-engines and donkey-engines), but had little inertia and needed constant freshwater supply.
  2. Thank you Pat ... Back from another travel, I turned my attention to the Anchor-winch 1 I spent quite a bit of time perusing contemporary drawings and near-contemporary models of small mid-19th century Baltic vessels in order to get a good idea of what, at that time, the anchor-winch of a modest small vessel might have looked like. While the archives of the Danish Royal Shipyard in Copenhagen indicate, that winches with mechanical advantage, such as those driven via gears and an idler-shaft or patent-winches seem to have been known by the mid-1830s, they don’t seem to have been common on more modest vessels. Vessels, such as this Rahschlup, were built in small shipyards with limited forging and other iron-working capabilities, let alone gear-cutting facilities. Gears could have been bought in, but this would have been too expensive probably for this kind of ‘subsistence’ shipping. Profile of the winch – Detail from the Original drawing by Möller. This research was needed, because the original drawings show the profile of the cheeks, but there is no plan view, that indicates the length and shape of the barrel. In the Danish archive I found the drawing of a single-masted jagt of comparable size with relatively detailed rendering of the winch. It may be a bit older than the Rahschlup, but the original drawings indicate an eight-sided barrel, which at that time was already a bit old-fashioned. Other drawings from the Danish archive of the mid-1840s showed already more modern looking round barrels. Jacht THETIS (1842) – Late 19th model from original drawings in the Altonaer Museum, Hamburg. The Danish drawings and various photographs from similar vessels under restauration confirmed that the cheeks were surprisingly thin, only about half a foot in thickness. Similarly, the post against which the bowsprit will rest was only ¾ of a foot in cross-section. Detail from a drawing F150-119 for a Jagt, Rigsarkivet Copenhague. Based on this information, I drew the barrel and the cheeks as working drawings. The drawings for the cheeks will be printed and stuck onto 1 mm acrylic glass as a guidance for sawing them out. Working drawing for the anchor-winch of the Rahschlup Workshop results coming hopefully soon …
  3. There are several Web-sites specifically on the Taig and modifications etc. owners made. For instance this one: http://www.cartertools.com And yes, mounting the motor on some sort of hinge was/is common practice, even by manufacturers. One can make this more sophisticated by providing locking/tensioning screws. And yes again, removing the belt is good practices. Leaving it under tension may not stretch is, but may deform it in the way it has been put aside, leading to an uneven bumpy rund, at least initially. I don't know what you are planning to do with the independent 4-jaw-chuck, but its use may imply that you need to have a dial-indicator and a mount for it to be able to center workpieces.
  4. It is always a good idea to hide the line between the background painting and the 3D-foreground with some 'props' such as trees, hedgrows, fences etc. I have seen in museum dioramas that the foreground (cliffs etc.) was continued as fading out relief into background. It is always difficult to convincingly continue a 3D-foreground feature into the background painting. There will be always a sharp edge between them. So it is better to have a clearly outlined feature in front of the background. Somehow, I have the feeling that the cliffs left and right continue as painting on the background - perhaps you can continue with the same style of painting as on the 3D-feature for a few inches and then let the cliff details become increasingly faded? Otherwise, it is coming on indeed very nicely ... I regret that I don't have the space for a railway model.
  5. It turned out really well and convincing. I really like your approach of thorough research into the circumstances, function and the details 👍🏻 I think this deserves to be written up, say with a leaning on modelling in the NRG Journal and with a leaning on the research e.g. in the International Journal of Nautical Archaeology (which deals, unlike to what is suggested by the title also with recent and sub-recent vessels).
  6. Personally, I like to 'animate' my models, but then they are usually arranged as scenic display. In your case, a single figure for scale may be just the right thing.
  7. The eye-bolt to which the the throat-block hooks may be a through bolt and have some sort of eye underneath from where the line starts with which the sail is lashed to the gaff. Also, half-hitches at each eyelet keeps the line better in place.
  8. Again, I managed to eek out a bit of time for the workshop between travels and addressed myself to the Parcel Hatch The ’parcel hatch’ is a common feature of such trading-smack type vessels and proved access to the cargo hold before the mast. As the name indicates, this space was typically used to store general cargo, while the main hold was used for bulk loads, such as bricks or coal, or grain in sacks. The laser-cutting template for the parcel hatch lid This hatch will be shown closed and therefore a ‘core’ (the actual hatch including the coamings) was milled from a piece of acrylic, while the lid was built up from laser-cut parts. I could have milled the two parts in one piece, but milling the camber of the lid would have required a more complex set-up. On the real thing lid was made to fit over hatch like the lid on a box. These hatch lid was tied down with two iron straps, the ends of which slipped over eye-bolts in the deck, to be secured to them with cotter-pins presumably. As these parts will be painted in a different colour from that of the hatch and have to fit tightly, they will be made and fitted later, once the hatch is installed. The parcel hatch and crew companionway provisionally deployed To be continued …
  9. Looking the thing, you are on the right track! I think the lanyards should be rove about three times through the thimble, keeping in mind that the steel shrouds are much stronger than the rope. I use something like dilute nail varnish (the acetone solvable one, not the acrylic variety) for keeping coils in shape and place. I prefer a solvent-based varnish for that, because one can soften it with a drop of acetone, if the 'rope' doesn't comply yet. The problem may be that it leaves shiny traces, but if it is rather dilute it may be not so serious and can be corrected with some matt acrylic varnish.
  10. This looks like an awful amount of sawdust and sanding dust - I think I would have built up the core of the superstructure from layers of MDF and covered this in styrene sheet (or perhaps Bakelite paper in my case). This gives you a paint-ready surface.
  11. I have the vague feeling that DELPHINEN spent also some time in the Danish Westindies (since 1917 US Virgin Islands), but I may be wrong. The Danish usually had a brig or schooner stationed there.
  12. Think it would also make sense here in principle, as ELBE/ELBEN operated in strongly tidal waters, where touching sandbanks and the like may take place frequently. Talking about that, I wonder, whether she was really coppered. Most vessels that would only operate in home waters around the North Sea and the Baltic did not need to be coppered, as Terredo navalis had not penetrated through the Channel yet. Today, the situation is different, with T. navalis being found around the Wadden Sea island already.
  13. If you look carefully at the sheet provided by the supplier, you will notice that there are vertical lines separating the plates, these should probably face to the rear, as the 'tiling' would begin at the stern and continue forward with the plates overlapping each other a bit. Similarly, the coppering would begin at the bottom and progress upward. Keel and sterm/stern would be done last, the rationale being that these areas would be most at risk and plates may need to be replaced more frequently.
  14. Sorry, the Versailles reference went into the wrong forum and thread - to many things going on at the moment. In the building thread mentioned above there should be historical photograph or two that shows the drive arrangement on GJØA.
  15. I just checked the pictures of GJØA that I took, when I visited the museum in 2019. However, at that time non gypsie-chaindrive was rigged though some chain was wrapped around the deck-winch. BTW, I may pop over to Versailles, but as I am between travels, I am not sure I will really manage.
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