wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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I think what amateur saw was something like this (No. 238): Source: LEHNHARDT (1895) 'Takelungs- und Ankerkunde", Plate XX -
Modern cars don't seem to have 'frames' anymore. I believe the VW beetle (and the VW Kübelwagen = Jeep) was one of the first to have been built with a 'self-suspending' body, where chassis and body are integral parts. The 2CV wasn't quite like this, but had an underbody made from pressed steel panels. There were some stiffening 'stringers' as well. Mine suffered from rust at some stage and the road safety inspector poked a hole through it with his screwdriver. They cut out the rusty bit and welded-in some sheet metal, as the structural parts were not affected.
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‘Universal’ Primer
wefalck replied to CTYankee's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I love shellac and have used it a lot over the past 40 years or so on furniture and modelling projects. However, I would not necessarily call it an 'universal' primer. Its applicabilaty depends very much on what you are applying it to -> compatibility. Bare wood is ok, but as soon as you may have applied some putty or filler, the situation changes, when these are soluble in alcohol. Dito. any other surfaces that are attacked by ethanol. Sometimes, it is desired that the primer attacks the surface, because then it is able to key in stronger, one of the main functions of a primer. However, particularly when applied by brush, you may bring so much solvent onto the surface that you are softening and distorting it. Tests are always advisable. -
‘Universal’ Primer
wefalck replied to CTYankee's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Paints are funny things and a lot can go wrong, when one begins to mix different things. A stirred paint is a (usually) carefully designed suspension or dilute gel of pigments in a mixture of 'medium' (e.g. lineseed oil) and solvent (e.g. turpentine). If you change the ratio between medium and solvent, the suspension can break down, it flocculates. Many commercial paints are quite forgiving as to the ratio as long as you use the right solvent or medium. If you are adding a fourth component to the system, i.e. a different solvent, a lot of things can happen: the paint may coagulate, the the medium breaks down with the consequence that the paint does not 'dry' or bind (the pigment dust off), etc. This is why insisted on the compatibility in the other posts. Such things can also happen, when certain paints come into contact with certain incompatible surfaces, e.g. some metals, such as copper, or different primers or other types of paint. The new paint will physico-chemically react with the surface, which can lead to its breakdown. -
I think there are two simple geometrical answers to the question - which doesn't mean they are easy to achieve. However: - the rabbet has to be so deep that the planking lands on the keel/stem without step, i.e. neither the planks nor the keel may be proud of each other - the included angle between the two surfaces of the rabbet should be around 90"
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Vain hope ... somehow tools and materials have the desire to fill all available space on a work-surface ...
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Oh, I forgot, yes they got the wood from there. The Lebanon cedar still is a pretty knotty wood ... and there is a chicken-and-egg-problem: you first to have ships to import the wood ...
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- byblos ship
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Only just now discovered this project ! Excellent rendering of the sewn technology. The old Egyptians must have had a hell of a time to make a ship out of the mediocre and small pieces of wood that was available only in their arid area. I gather the shipyard slaves would have loved to have a CNC-milling machine, considering that all those grooves and mortices had to be cut with bronze tools.
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It was an air-cooled boxer-engine, like on BMW-motorcycles.
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Protective topcoat over blackened brass?
wefalck replied to Mike_In_RI's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
You must have used bad shellac then. Good quality shellac does not really yellow. Or, some stain from the wood has diffused into the shellac ? -
Very nice paint and weathering job again. It slowly comes together - or perhaps I should say falls apart prototype-fahion I found that very dilute acrylic washes, build up in multiple layers, give nice weathering and toning-down effects. As long as the paint is still humid, if can be washed off easily with a lot of water, if one doesn't like the effect. Once dry, of course, it is permanent. Unlike some inks and (fresh) oils, these washes are not attacked by subsequent washes.
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Another conclusion: no carpets under work areas, particularly where liquids are used (I am not talking about oriental rugs under dining tables ...;) ). If you can't remove the carpet, put a hard surface over it under the worktable and where your chair is.
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Accurate Triangle metal square
wefalck replied to michael101's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
If I understood correctly, you are not actually lloking for a highly accurate triangle/engineer's square, but rather a way to set cutting tools (e.g. saw blade, sanding disk, etc.) square to the table with sufficient accuracy. It would be helpful to think about how much accuracy you actually need. Something with test certificates seems to be completely over the top for setting woodworking tools. In normal workshop practice standard engineer's square should be perfectly adequate. Their squareness is easily qualitatively tested as described by someone above. -
AL L'Hermione - LEGO jig for alignment of stepped masts
wefalck replied to Spike1947's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Not a bad idea ! The only thing that would worry me a bit is that the LEGO-pieces would not be resistant to solvents. Gave my big childhood box of LEGO away to a little boy whose mother helped my mother to care for my father in his old age (not having children of my own), but kept my meccano set (the German equivalent of it) for making experimental machinery. -
The answer probably is that almost everything inside a ship at that time was moveable, except perhaps for some deck pillars. So stairs could be moved out of the way and hatches covered with gratings.
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Any conclusion on this ?
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On first sight, this indeed looks like an 'open heart'. However, the fact that the internal opening is round is a bit strange. Normally, part on which the lanyard rests would be straight, perhaps with shallow grooves, to make sure that the individual turns of the lanyard do not check each other. In the present configuration the lanyard turns would have the tendency to squeeze each other, thus making it difficult to set it tight. One would need to find similar images in the 19th century literatur to corroborate this shape of 'open heart'.
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Downloaded it, but also only looked through it diagonally ... I seem to remember, however, that I noticed that she is not so familiar with ships as such ...
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Well, as they say: life sometimes gets in the way of modelling ... good to hear that and not that something got in the way of your life ...
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BUYING A "PAINT SET"
wefalck replied to MadDogMcQ's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
You can start your project from any point in the 'value chain' (as economists would call it), cutting the tree yourself, mining your own pigments, planting your hemp, ... depends on the practicalities, your space, time and abilities ... Having said that, I don't bother with mixing my own paints, there are people with industrial equipment that can do it much better and more consistent in quality. Some long-standing specialised artist paint suppliers have branched out into the model market, e.g. Vallejo (Spain) or Schmincke (Germany). I found that even their quite dilute airbrush-ready confections keep for decades. Coming back to the original question, the added- or any value of buying sets: I would not buy sets, not even something that you put yourself together on speculation. Just buy what you really need at the moment. Saves space, money and frustration, if you find that something has gone off that you never needed before. I broke my own rule twice: way back in the early 1970s, when I discovered that the Humbrol range over in the UK was much bigger and cheaper than in Germany - still haven't opened some of them, and back in the mid-1990s, when some Schmicke paints were sold out in a closing down shop at 20% of their original price ... finally made use of one of them after all those years. -
The photographer must have come through (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Time_Tunnel)
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I prefer fast-drying solvent-based lacquer (zapon lacquer, as used to protect brass and silver from tarnishing) for this purposes. It is basically invisible and can be loosened with a drop of acetone, if needed. It can also applied in small quantities with a fine brush.
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Lettering options (easy)?
wefalck replied to Brewerpaul's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
The lettering was mostly incised into the wood, if I am not mistaken, and the laid out in paint. If you find someone with either a CNC-mill or a laser-engraver, you could have this done for you on suitable material. Seal the material with lacquer, smear the paint into the engraved letters and wipe the rest off. -
Acrylic clear over India Ink
wefalck replied to ChrisSC's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
One could try to apply acrylic paint pre-diluted for air-brushing with a good old drawing pen or with one of those funnel-like 'pens' that was used in the old days for technical drawings and lettering (some time ago there was a thread here on MSW on these drawing instruments). Both tools would require frequent cleaning, as the acrylics dry very fast, of course. The problem of diffusion into the white paint may remain, but is likely to be less grave for acrylics than for the much finer pigment particles in India ink or let alone dye-based inks. The white acrylic paint layer remains slighly porous, sucking in some of the black ink due to capillary effects. One should let the white paint dry for several weeks to give the acrylics molecules time to cross-link properly and for the residual water to diffuse out (it becomes trapped in the acrylics to some degree, which is why acrylics stay relatively soft for quite a while).
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