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wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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Where these parts actually laser-cut /-engraved ? What PolyBak(?) thickness did you use and what laser power ? -
No Ratlines on Revenue Cutter Dallas?
wefalck replied to RichardG's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Agreement or not, the fact is that some fairly big vessels did not have ratlines. On this kind of vessels sails and yards set flying were operated from the deck. -
I really would like to know what it actually is, so that one can look for alternative brands ...
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Nice, clean work ! I never seen belaying pins on booms, I think, only cleats. Interesting. What goes onto the pins, the clew outhauls or the flag halliards ?
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I don't think that boiler feed-water from the condensers would be be fit for drinking considering even that seamen at that time were less picky then we are today. To my knowledge distillation apparatus were installed on such ships from around the 1860s on. I seem to remember that there is a drawing of such apparatus in the Danish Naval Yard archives, but I could not find it in my files right now. How did you make the pump, looks quite tiny.
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I understand that point. On the other hand, the dedicated fora, such as MSW, open up the way to obtain informations and directions that in those dark pre-Internet ages would have not be so easy to come by. With this one can improve on kits, if necessary. This should give much more satisfaction at the end. There are many examples here on MSW, where people made magnificent and historically quite correct models out of the kit material. Why don't you rephrase your question and re-post it to attract the attention of people who have more specific knowledge of HMS BOUNTY ? You could ask in the title of the post something like "How were the yards of HMS BOUNTY constructed ?". The answer may well be that they were hexagonal in the middle ...
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I think what we meant, was whether you checked against historical sources or reference books based on historical sources. Interpretations of kit-makers are often not very reliable and dictated by kit-production convenience.
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Where did you double-check ? And what kind of ship are you working on ?
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I said this before, but it may help sorting out one's mind: there are basically two types of models or two types of intentions. One type is the artesanal type, where you try to show of your skills in the various trades, woodworking and/or metalworking, and this case (your) aethetics are the guiding principle. The other type is a model that tries to represent the ship as it actually might have looked like. The latter most likely does not show any untreated wood visible and historical correctness (as fas as we can know) would be important. In the former type historical correctness in detail, but not appearance could also be considered important. These, of course, are extremes, and there may be transitions between the types.
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A systematic approach always helps !
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Scottish Maid (Artesania kit) - where to anchor etc braces
wefalck replied to gthursby's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I think the model in the link above is one I seem to remember, not the 'seaman's' style one. -
Just running a couple of ropes across a boat sitting upright on chocks may not be sufficient to keep the boat from rocking. Today, so-called gripes are used, these are hooks that go over the wales and have an eye at the end. A rope is reefed in several turns through this eye and an eye-bolt or something suitable on the deck or the chocks. This rope then is fastened on itself after hauling it taut. Instead of hook, this rope could also be fastened to a suitable structural member inside the boat. The idea is to secure the boat at four points, rather than just pulling it down onto the chocks. Small boats that are relatively easily man-handled may be also better stored upside-down to keep them dry and to prevent overcoming water to collect in them in making them top-heavy.
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It's coming on nicely. Somehow, the boat looks, as if mixes 19th and 18th century features, the bow looks still quite 18th century in shape.
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Good job on something, that can go easily wrong in different ! Yes, Christmas will be rather different this year, with no family gatherings in many parts of the world - even when legally possible, one should refrain anyway, as the whole society will pay for it in the end. We normally travel to Germany to spend Christmas with relatives, including my 95 year old mother - we wouldn't even get there, let alone be allowed to visit her ... very sad.
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Red ochre, iron-oxyhydroxide (FeOOH ... I am a geochemist ) is rather stable in most environments. Its the same mineral the colours red sandstones and also a component of most iron-ores. So it is not terribly surprising that it may outlast wood. Depending on the actual composition of the mineral and heating processes during the pigment production, it's colour can vary from a pale orange to deep red to a reddish violett. Assuming that no a very high-quality pigment was used in 'barn-paints' a brownish red is probably the most likely colour.
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Scottish Maid (Artesania kit) - where to anchor etc braces
wefalck replied to gthursby's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
The small reproductions of MacGregor's plans in his book(s) are probably of limited use. I gather the full-size plans would be much more useful, as SCOTTISH MAID was one of those ships he researched more intensively. If I am not mistaken, Petersson focuses on the 18th century and draws mainly on Swedish sources, while SCOTTISH MAID is mid-19th century and from a very innovative yard at the time. -
How were houses painted in the area ? I gather in some areas of the USA wooden houses were painted in red ochre, as is for instance common in certain Scandinavian areas. So, if red ochre paints were around they could have used those to mimic the common practice in other areas of shipbuilding. In the 1860s ship bottom paints (for iron ships) became available in quite a range of colours, but red seems to have been always popular, probably because people were used to the brownish-reddish colour of copper sheathing. Otherwise, I would concur with Roger, that some sort of tar would have been the most likely alternative.
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As I am working in 1:160 and 1:87 scales, I need to look into really small sizes, say between 1 mm and 3 mm long maximum. A 0.1 mm positioning accuracy wouldn't be good enough. Blocks of 2.5 mm and above a can make using traditional methods. A year ago I bought a cheapo laser-cutter and that also needs a lot of trial and error to get the right settings for a particular set of parts. I don't need these for my current project, but in another project I will need deadeyes of about 2 mm diameter and will probably make these in layers of paper cut out with the laser-cutter. But this will be pushing it. With 1.5 mm long block I did not have the desired succes so far, at least not with double-blocks. I'll keep trying ... That's why I always keep an eye on 3D-printing developments.
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Yes, it seems that home 3D printing has come a long way in the last few years. And as always with new technology, unit prices come done, as it becomes more and more mainstream. Peter, I am wondering, whether you have already tried printing blocks and what the smallest sizes would have been ?
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Swan class 3D model in progress
wefalck replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Looks impressive ! But I was wondering, why stem, keel, and sternpost were left in natural wood colour ? They surely would have also been painted in the white bottom concoction.- 141 replies
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That's why I did not suggest this, though there are 'archival' ink-jet inks on the market. However, one can, of course, draw the pattern on the computer, laser-print it onto decal sheet, and then 'number-paint' the respective fields.
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