wefalck

I concluded the same from looking at the image, but had the feeling that the rudder-post seemed to be too long to be unsupported by pintles. However Cathead's images show that it works. Looking forward to the building process.

There have been no sails preserved from that period and all reconstructions are based on incisions on grave- or memorial stones. The interpretations vary considerably and different options have been tried out on replicas in order to understand what the most likely interpretation could be. I would check the publications coming out of Roskilde museum.

Years ago I made an interesting observation, when trying to saw out some bulkheads from 0.25 mm brass sheet: the saw tended to hook and distort the brass, but when I turned (counterintuitively) the blade upside-down it cut like butter ... don't remember the pitch, but it must have been in the order of 8/0. Some people also fasten the brass sheet to a piece of thin plywood to give the saw more meat.

Dafi (an myself) are not actually using the threads, but we make 'rope' from the threads. In this process you would tighten up the threads, which reduces the fluff a bit. Gütermann has a multitude of thread types in their production programme. My understanding is that Mara is relatively tightly wound and has comparatively little fluff. However, it may not be so readily available through retail shops. I have tried to buy it from physical haberdashery etc. shops in Germany, Switzerland and France, but couldn't find it. These shops have become very poor actually. You can buy it from on-line shops.

Started to make chips There was still some re-drawing and re-lofting to be done, as I realised that some parts of the planned back-bone did interfere with each other and cut-outs for the deckshouses etc. were missing. I then did a test-printout in order to detect any scale aberrations of my laser-printer. It turned out that the printouts were 0.5% too small, which was corrected by enlarging the drawing before printing accordingly. Then the printout was spot on with the desired dimensions. The base of the construction will be a piece of 4 mm thick acrylic glass. The printout was stuck to the acrylic with a glue-stick and then crucial intersections of lines and boreholes punch-marked. The centre-lines for the slots into which the bulkheads will were scored along the centre with a scalpel. This will help to align the base for milling. Layout for the backbone on 4 mm acrylic glass Cutting out the backbone on the small PROXXON scrollsaw The backbone was cut out with my PROXXON scrollsaw, but I am not terribly good at that, so I ended up quite far away from the line. However, the micro disc-sander that I build a few years ago from watchmakers lathe part came to good use here. Different diamond discs quickly and precisely removed the excess. Shaping the backbone with the micro disc-sander The backbone then was screwed down onto a batten that will allow to safely hold the model in a vice etc. during the building process. With the aid of this ‘building board’ the backbone was mounted in a vice on the rotary table of the lathe. It was checked that the backbone was perfectly perpendicular to the cutting spindle in all directions. This necessary in order ensure that the slots have an equal depth everywhere. The bottom of the slots will be the vertical datum for the alignment of the bulkheads. Finally the backbone was aligned to the axes of the milling machine. Set-up on the milling machine for milling the slots for the bulkheads All the slots, with the exception of those for the cant-frames were milled in the same set up, which ensures that the slots are parallel to each other and the slots for the stem- and sternpost are at a right angle to the bulkhead. Set-up on for milling the slots for the cant-frames For milling the slots for the can-frames the ‘building-board’ had to be moved so that centre, where the cant-frames would meet is roughly in the centre of the milling table. By turning the rotary table, the slots were aligned to the y-axis of the milling machine. Milling the slots for the cant-frames The back bone with the slots ready to take up the bulkheads After removing the paper template with warm water and some light deburring the backbone is now ready for the bulkheads. To be continued

If it is to be thinned with water, it is almost certainly some acrylic formulation. I like acrylics, but the penetration into wood decreases with its resin content. I would rather use something that is based on an organic solvent, which is not repelled by the wood resin.

Is this kit 3d-printed or cast resin? It's not clear from the discussion. Since the pandemic lots of masks should be around, they should be good enough for working with PU cast resin. I may have seen an original in the Military Museum in Bucharest some years ago. Another preserved original in the Vienna Military Museum was re-used in WW2 and destroyed during that war. The German Wikipedia has a long article and in the associated Wikimedia file there are dozens of pictures: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/30,5-cm-M.11-Mörser The 1/10 scale model in the museum in Vienna is actually painted green:

Perhaps it is a question of what Gütermann thread to use. I think the thread of choice (I believe Chuck used it originally for his ropes) is Gütermann Mara 120. Polyester normally has very long, basically endless, fibres and is smooth. So I am surprised that fibres should stick out. I actually never used Gütermann Mara myself, but rather rope made from fly-tying thread.

I think I'll try some self-adhesive aluminium tape (as used to cover the seams in dry-walling) on my PROXXON KS230.

One word: beautiful 👌🏻

Thanks for those tests! I would be inclined to believe that the polyester threads don't soak up the paint, it tries too fast and you push the semi-dry paint around with the brush. It's more work, but applying several thinner layers of more dilute paint may solve the problem. Today even museums seem to prefer polyester thread by Gütermann inter alia for their restoration work. So developing a method for such threads would be worthwhile. I am far away from this in my new project, but will probably go down that route.

Thank you very much for those insights into real wooden ship-building processes!

That could be an interesting proposition to imitate these ramshackle (litterally) arrangements. It will have to be complemented by a worn appearance of the boat overall, to look credible and not just like a botched-up modelling job 😲 Externally stropped blocks would be a lot easier to make ...

Actually, the three chain would not be visible from that angle, the would be too low in the boat I think 😉 'Spannschraube' is normally translated as 'bottle-screw', because in its closed form it resembles a bottle.

These would have situations and scenes in small-scale cargo shipping all around Europe (and probably the N-American continent too) well into the first years of the 20th century, when better roads and lorries replaced the boats. However, over here in Europe it was common to have a small coal-stove forward, which was used for cooking and heating. It is very easy to draw too much deck camber, I just had this experience myself and needed to correct the drawings for my new project. The camber also depends on how a boat is worked. Particularly when a lot of work is expected on the deck, less camber makes it easier to stand on deck. Also, when one expects to carry deck-loads, that is made easier with less camber. It's a trade-off between water-shedding capability and working convenience.

Nice ensemble! What's a 'drip' in this context?

Never though of using a tape over the table as zero-clearance 'insert', that sounds like a clever idea. While creating a zero-clearance cover with a table saw on which the blade can be raised, this is not so straightforward for saws with fixed blade (such as small PROXXON). Have to think about a solution ... perhaps just a strip left and righ of the blade.

It seems that a lot of of the combustion gases just blow out, rather than propelling the round. This would greatly reduce the recoil and make it 'softer' in comparison to a modern gun.

Very good recovery. I don't have Peterson's book, but believe that he based it on 18th and early 19th models in the Maritime Museum in Stockholm. There was no wire rigging at that time. By the end of the 19th century, after wire-rope had been introduced some 30 years earlier, rather than being taken around the deadeye, they were taken around solid thimbles. Normally, bottle-screws then would be used, but I gather they used a combination of old and new style on GJØA because bottle-screws can freeze solid, while with deadeyes and lanyards, one may still have a chance to tighten them. Also, they are easier to replace, when you don't have any supplies.

Fantastic results in obviously difficult times 👍🏻

Of course, it your model and you can do whatever you like to it. But be aware that others may follow bad examples as you are about to do. Rather than making test-rigs for historically inaccurate arrangements, the time would have been better spent on doing some research. Sorry for being a bit blunt and harsh, but I just cannot understand, why people are so obstinate to follow down an obviously wrong path. This plan view copied from above is obviously only a partial view and, as we don't have the plan, we don't know what the numbers refer to. However, the lines leading to nos. 58, 59 and 60 lead to some dots on the horizontal member of the bit, that I woud interpret as holes for belaying pins. If you drill some holes here and install some pins, you may not have necessarily historically correct solution (which would need to be confirmed by resarch), but at least one that is technically correct ...

Have a look at @archjofo's building log on his CREOLE. I think he serves 'ropes' down to 0.3 mm diameter on a shop-made serving machine. I agree, that most commercial serving machines seem to be too 'coarse' for such delicate jobs. On the other hand, @dafi recently used PVA to simulate (partially) served rope on his 1/100 scale VICTORY. A totally different route I have been using for served strops is silk-spun copper wire as used in high-frequency coils of old radios etc. For many years it was difficult to find, but as old-fashioned electronics and restauration of radios has become fasionable, such wires re-appear on the market again. I used inherited wires or stuff I picked up on flea-markets and consider using it for my next miniature project.

I fully agree with @Dr PR ... Belaying lines that have a constant load on them on these horizontal bits shows actually a lack of understanding of the functioning of belaying. As long as you keep the running end under tension, the friction on a belaying-pin, cleat or bollard from half to one turn of rope is usually sufficient to carry the load. This fact is used to safely undue the belaying. The final turn and half-hitch are only there to secure the rope when there is no tension on the running end. Assuming that a line comes running down from the mast, it woul have to go either a quarter turn or one and a quarter turn around the bit in order to arrive in a position from which you can pull on it. A quarter turn is not sufficient and one and a quarter turn is too much to be workable. When belaying, you would need to take the running end around the horizontal bit again to form a clove hitch, which is very difficult to do under such conditions. A clove hitch would be more or less the only hitch the works under such circumstances, but is difficult cast off, when there is tension on the ropes. So, from a practical point of view this is a no-no. Again, rather than copying the mistakes of other modellers, it is better to undertake some research oneself. I realise that the literature, both the contemporary and modern works, are weak on belaying points. However, there are certain common practices in any one country that do change much from ship to ship. Seamen were transferred from ship to ship and had to quickly find their way around a new ship and you cannot 'try' several ropes to find the right one at sea. So on all ships certain types of ropes were belayed more or less at the same location. This may vary, of course, depending on the rig and the size of the ship.

I am a totally urban person coming from totally urban backgrounds of all my ancestors 🤓. Perhaps, that is why I was always interested in such agricultural subjects ... The German (Technical) Museum in Munich has a replica of the first horse-drawn mechanical reaper of 1831 by McCormick: The basic operating mechanism for cutting has not changed much since. Anyway, back to the practicalities of modelling: for the leather driving belts I would cut narrow strips of thin paper of the apropriate width, lay them out on a (card)board covered with cling-film and give them a liberal coat of paint on both sides. When putting them around the sheaves, the seams can be hidden underneath the pulleys out of sight. On the prototype, the belts would be stitched together using metal clips not unlike paper staples. Sometimes they were also laced together. The belts were also treated to make waterproof, but I don't remember with what, as they shouldn't become slippery. Remember that the belts workd through the friction between the leather and the cast-iron and are not normally tensioned fully. The amount of pulley surface around which they wrap is more important. Such pulleys are actually not flat, but slightly domed - it may be counterintuitive, but this is what keeps them centered on the pulley. There are some videos on YouTube that show such belts in action.

I would toss those plans, don't look at what other modellers did, but go back to period written sources and perhaps period models (cum grano salis) in order to work out the proper lead of lines and a proper belaying plan. To me this seems to be the only reasonable solution. BTW, it is not uncommon that two lines that would have to be worked at the same time would go onto the same belaying pin.