wefalck
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Everything posted by wefalck
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Nils, a standard M3 nut is 2.4 mm thick, which gives you about 5 threads for a pitch of 0.5 mm. However, given the size of the model, I would feel more comfortable with M4 or even M5 …- 180 replies
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Looking solidlly done - deutsche Wertarbeit Why don't you use an ordinary nut and large washer ('Karosseriescheibe'). That would be easier to tighten than these press-in nuts.
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These bilge-keels are rather large for a motor-launch, I have feeling. They are as big as those in sailboats for tidal waters, that are meant to sit upright on them in the mud. I also wonder, what will happen to the prop-shaft, when you hit something with the 'protective' pin sticking out from the bearing? It will probably bend the shaft ... or will there be a bar connecting this to the keel-fin?
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Not a bad idea at all ... but you also need a groove for the shroud on the outside, which you probably can file. If you actually needed round dead-eyes (as per 17th century onwards), you could solder three smaller pipes into a larger one. On the other hand, if you don't like wood for them, you could also cut disks from a brass- or styrene- or acrylic rod and then drill the three holes in a simple drilling jig.
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Never ... well, I think brass or perhaps rather bronze or cast-iron came into use when wire runners came into use, for which even Lignum vitae was too soft. I believe expensive brass sheaves and ball-bearings came into use also on later 19th century yachts.
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Lighting upgrade to Proxxon band saw
wefalck replied to Kevin Kenny's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Such LED flood-lights are useful for eyes getting older - I installed one above my workbench a while ago as well. One can never have enough light ... -
Check out 'archjofo's' thread on LA CREOLE, a French ship of approximately the same period. Don't get daunted by the quality of his work, but take it as inspirational and benefit from his research. If you work backward through the postings, you will come to point (not that long ago), where he discusses the feature you are talking about. I have to check, I may have some images of the model of LA TOULONNAISE in the Musée de la Marine in Paris. If I am not mistaken the kit is based on a set of plans published by the 'Friends of the Museum': https://boutique.aamm.fr/monographies/plan-toulonnaise. The model and the plans in turn are based on a set of drawings published by Admiral Pâris in his 'Souvenirs de la Marine'.
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Coming on nicely! Will you leave the deck like that or still scrape? It looks rather glossy, actually. Using steel-wools also give a nice matt finish.
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Looking very good! I know, I forget this myself all the time, but it would be useful to have something to compare the actual size with.
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Fixing paper to timber
wefalck replied to Boccherini's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You can also slide one of these thick razor-blades with reinforced back between the wood and the paper. That helps to peel it off, even when it has been on longer. -
I think this is a very good idea to transfer the curve of a plank to another one, sort of a parallel marking out tool that boat-builders use for the same purpose. I'll have keep that in mind for my next project, where I will have to handle 2 mm wide planks.
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Ras, why are you concerned about the staining of dowels? What did you make from dowel-rod that needs to be stained, rather than painted ? The funnel looks good! It doesn't really matter what's inside, as long as it looks right from the outside. I would give the paper a coat of wood-sanding filler - works also with paper. When using a wooden dowel as core for making paper tubes, I rub it with candle wax and then melt it down with a hair-dryer or a hot-air gun. You can also use Teflon-spray, if you have any.
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A method for making panelled sails using paper
wefalck replied to Cathead's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
If I remember correctly, there are fly-tying threads (e.g. 18/0 from Veevus or Caenis) that are even thinner and also available in suitable colours. However, a 0.1 mm thread would be in say 1/48 scale equivalent to nearly a 5 mm rope, which is not what was used to sew bolt-ropes to sails. Hence, any sewing in scales below 1/24 or so would be grossly out of scale ...- 49 replies
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When I read the second line of your post, I first thought you were now working on 1:1 scale equipment ... I admire you, that you keep going under such taxing circumstances - isn't Zaporizhia just NE of Kiyw ?
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Sorry for asking ... a bit of 'petrolpunk' then ... What is interesting is, that there is a bit of cultural and technical history around the quarries in the UK. Over here on the continent, at least in Germany and France, this is largely forgotten with little, if any photographic evidence, let alone books about the subject. In Germany there were a couple of manufacturers that made such small petrol locos for quarries, agricultural estates and the likes, but I wonder, whether any quarry had enough engineering resources to make such home-grown locos. Another reason for their absence (in my perception) may have been the rather strong workplace H&S supervision, at least since WW1.
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Just like in full-size practice, except that hollow marlin-spikes are typically only used for wire-rope.
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Did you explain in an earlier post, what these 'fiddly bits' are? Apologies for asking, if you did. Anyway, they look like nice pieces of small-scale engineering 👍
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Keith, I was looking at the wrong kid, I thought you meant to boy at the left, I didn't notice the small kid in the centre ... The dog looks quite big for a mascot, but it seems that it was quite common in the navies to have cats (against the rats) and dogs or even exotic animals on board.
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Good photographs, showing a lot of useful period details 👍 The very first photograph seems to be a photo-montage ... the capitain was copied indvidually from officier group photograph. I gather it was not someone's child on the other photograph, but a 'boy' (apprentice) and perhaps the ship's dog - many ship had mascots on board.
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Nice job on the hull so far! Using styrene for parts that are painted saves you a lot of sanding and other preparation. Don't know, how soft the rubber of tires on your tractor is, but on parts like this I use a coarse diamond burr or wheel in the hand-held electric drill to remove flash.
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As I said earlier, I would assume that this was a carronade barrel mounted on a sliding carriage. The lower part of the sliding carriage pivots (swivvels?) around a 'fighting pivot' during action. There does not seem to be any information, where this pivot was located. I am not sure, whether in 1828 traversing carriages already existed, meaning that the carriage had lugs for the pivots at both ends and by placing pivot-stubs on the deck at suitable points so that you can move (swivvel?) the carriage into different positions, while always having at least one pivot engaged - make the operations much safer than moving around a 'loose' cannon. Typically the gun would have been stored using two pivots in the centre-line of the ship and then moved into action position at the bulwark. I don't think that in 1828 central pivots already existed, but I may be wrong. If the carriage was pivoted centrally, then gun would have been just turned into firing direction, without the carriage being moved around. A smooth-bore gun can be loaded with pretty much anything of which you think it would inflict the desired damage to your opponent. In case of solid shot or shells, you just need to make sure that it fits with some clearance (for which there were rules or calipers set for each gun with which each shot or shell would be checked before loading. A 'wad' between the powder and the shot ensures a gas-tight seal - unlike in a modern breech-loader, where the projectile has a soft metal ring that provides the seal.
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Looking good ! As you have a lathe, I am wondering, why you build up the goose-neck for the sliding gunter from tube-sections, rather than boring and turning it from a piece of round brass?
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What surprises me, is how fragile these coaches looked. OK, they had to keep weight down so as not to tire the horses too much, but somehow it is difficult to imagine these things going along mud-tracks.
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