bhermann
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Everything posted by bhermann
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PopJack - Steal away! That's why I post the stuff I have "borrowed" from many others during my build, Gil Middleton's fake splices in his Victory log is one of my favorite finds. For the shackles I soldered the loops on the ends of the "U" then super-glued a brass wire "pin" into the loops. I trimmed after gluing so I'd have something to hang onto while gluing. I have gotten better at getting the loops small enough to create a little friction when inserting the wire pin. Some of my early efforts were pretty loose, but the pins have stayed in place even in those. I have tried soldering the pin in place, but haven't had much success with that. Using the glue allows the turnbuckles to rotate on the pin, when I tried solder it froze everything in place. Bob
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Reading this makes me think that Danny has come up with an excellent list. The thought that popped into my mind is that all these basics need to be applied in a small space and that order will be important when actually rigging the model. I am going to add this post to my list of "Favorites"! Bob
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Nice touch with the torch, Jay. You are becoming a real master. I still occasionally evaporate the fitting I am trying to solder - must remember light passes are all that is needed. I never thought of taping things to the stone - I have an old ceramic tile in the basement I may need to drag out for futures - still have all those sail hanks to make for the jib sails. Loving the build! Bob
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Like you I soldered the eyes. Now I don't have to worry about them opening up while rigging, just about them ripping out! I agree about toning down the white. In some places (like the rings on the hatch covers) I changed them to black after seeing them in place. You are doing some fine work here, in my opinion. Bob
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Is that a small torch? It's the only size I own, and I have used it for all silver soldering on Bluenose. Bob
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Robert - thanks for the kind words. I am pretty happy with the MS kit. I think it is a bit larger scale than the Amati kit (1:64 vs 1:100?) which makes it possible to add more detail Dave - no problem. I'm glad you can recall something useful from that part of the build. I haven't spent a lot of time on Bluenose lately. I have finished up the rest of the sail templates and printed them, haven't cut them out yet. I've been spending a lot of free time on other projects, one of which is an origami canoe - not something I'll be repeating soon. Ralph - I did take a look back at the old photos but I only have pictures of the completed assembly. That would not be much help, I know. If Daves response isn't what you are looking for, I recommend posting a question either in your own log (hint, hint ) or in a separate topic. Bob
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Good to see you coming back to her after a break, Bob. She is a fine build in progress and it'll be fun to watch where you take her from here. Bob
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Hi Robert, and welcome to MSW. It looks like you are well into this - and things are coming along nicely. Thanks for sharing your progress so far. I'll be following along too. Bob
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Hi Ralph, and welcome to MSW. I see this is your first post. I am sorry to hear you are having issues with the fittings on your kit. I would suggest one of two things to get help on this. First, you could start a build log of your Bluenose build. A build log is a great way to get advice and share your work with the community. For me it isn't about showing a perfect product, it's about sharing the process and learning as you go. There will be other things that you come across throughout the build, and if you have a log started it's a simple matter of posting your question. A second possibility is to open a new topic in the "Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings" forum. That would be a natural place for the question you are asking. Whichever path you chose, I'd recommend posting some photos of the issue - that will make it easier to visualize what you are describing. I will look back in my old photos and see if I have anything useful for this problem. It was about 5 years ago when I did that part of the build, so my memory is more than a little fuzzy. I look forward to seeing more of your work as you continue your Bluenose build. Bob
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Hey, Thor - it's good to have you back. I recall your Bluenose as being an excellent build. There are several people working on her now who are going to appreciate what you have to offer.. I will be following along again as well! Maybe you could post one shot of the finished build as a teaser . Bob
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Kip - I have thought of you often over the past year and wondered what had become of you. The occasional post would show up, but no building activity. I am happy to hear you were able to find something that works for you (and of course i am looking to the resurrection of Old Blue ). Bob
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Sorry for creating the confusion, Bob. The plans I have show two tack lines for the fore topsail, one run to port and the other to starboard. As with the jib tacks, the corner of the sail is pulled over the top of the spring stay (and the mainmast stay) when tacking. The tack line that is not in use remains draped over the mainmast stay. Bob
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Hull planking - was done mostly in my lap. (What can I say, I didn't know any better!) Bob
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Shawn - the trick is to look at it from the side with your eye at the level of the waterline. If it looks straight from that angle, you've got it made. Nice progess on this guy - keep up the good work. Bob
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Sign me up as a member of the "old t-shirt club" too. Very clean work Rusty - enjoying watching your updates. Bob
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Bob Are you looking for information about the staysail that is rigged between the fore topmast and the main topmast? I have also seen the sail referred to as the "fishermans sail". The rigging plan for Bluenose indicates that it needs to be lowered to the deck to be switched from one side of the spring stay to the other. There are two sets of staysail halliards rigged to the main topmast to accomplish and the staysail sheet is belayed either port or starboard depending on which tack the ship is on. I spent a lot of time looking for this answer when I was considering whether or not to rig the sail. I don't know if it is safe to generalize from that - I'm sure others will chime in with more definitive information. Bob
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Elia - that cove line section looks VERY crisp now - nice re-work The rest of the details shown also are very sharp. I will have to look into the Woodland Scenic transfers - they seem to be a nice addition as well. Bob
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PopJack - The Nova Scotia archives have some photos of the ship that have been helpful in working out some details. I was able to find this shot of the cabin. it's not entirely clear but it is a start. http://www.novascotia.ca/nsarm/virtual/bluenose/archives.asp?ID=203&Language= There may be other photos that show the cabin better - take a look around some of the other sections there. Someone (Fritz Koopman, I believe) posted a description of the paint scheme by a local ships captain in my log on MSW1. If anyone saved that, it moght have some useful information. If Fritz sees this, maybe he will re-post the information here. Bob
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BEADS - another use for beads is as parrel beads for all those gaff rigged schooners out there - or other applications where there are single parrels in use. Steve - great thread - may I suggest you change the title to something that might help people realize what you are trying to do with it? It will help get more responses, I suspect. Thanks, Bob
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Size of blocks for MS Bluenose 1/64 scale.
bhermann replied to DaveGrady1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Dave - I'm sorry to hear the blocks are no longer supplied. It seems that several things have disappeared over time (the walnut veneer for the second planking was the first item I am aware of that went missing from later kits). My older version does have the 7/32 blocks included. They look a bit oversized to me. If you are going to purchase blocks I'd recommend going down in size - the 5/32 might do the trick. Are there enough of those in the kit to substitute for the halyard blocks? Or as Allan said, making your own blocks is an option. There are some threads on MSW that describe peoples techniques for doing this. BTW - I'd love to see photos of your work so far - or even a build log if you are of a mind to do so. The more Bluenoses out there, the better! And welcome to MSW. Bob -
Jay - I bought the paste from Amazon. One tube goes a long way in this line of work. Bob
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Size of blocks for MS Bluenose 1/64 scale.
bhermann replied to DaveGrady1's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Dave - if this is the Model Shipways kit, I'd suggest reaching out to Model Expo for replacement parts. They have always replaced missing or broken parts for me with no questions and at no charge. Bob -
Jan - I think the gold figures on paper came out very well. They stand out better than the original attempt, and blend nicely with the rest of the ornamentation on the transom. Good fix! Your sculpting work looks marvelous to me. Keep going Bob
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Jay - I have used a similar setup in making the eyes, bands, and lugs on Bluenose as the last section you showed using the small torch and silver solder. The only difference is that I am using silver solder paste that includes the solder and flux so they can be applied at the same time. It is amazing how strong those silver soldered joints turn out. Bob
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Congratulations, Sjors. She turned out so well. I think the shots of the bow and stern really highlight her gracefulness and your craftsmanship. Well done! Bob
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