Pete Jaquith

Floyd,

Excellent point, when I return to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build I will take a look at the stern lanterns by Chuck's Syren Ship Model Company.

Regards,

Pete

Gary,

Thank you for your interest in the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log.  Is noted earlier, I try to model my ships as they might have looked.  In doing so, I feel free to modify details and resize components as my research dictates.

My Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 is currently in storage while I persue my latest 1:1 scale shipbuilding project at Vancouver Shipyards in North Vancouver, BC Canada (17 ships to 6 different designs).  I have a few "Fair American" pictures left addressing planning of hull planking, lining off, and installation of the 1st few strakes of hull planking.

A few of the changes under consideration include:

1. Single hull planking following period practice
2. Replacement cannons/gun charriages (per mock up)
3. Resize deck furniture (as required)
4. Possible addition of ships cutter (from Admirality Models)
5. Stern lantern kit (from Caldercraft Models)

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Robert,

Thank you four interest in "Fair American" circa 1780.  The curved planks were realy not difficult, just developing a sketch based on ship conditions.  I used proportional dividers and ships curves to layout the planking.

Regards,

Pete

Divarty,

I belay the line to the pin with several figure 8 loops and the last loop passing under the crossing line.  With all lines properly tensioned, I secure the belayed line with dilute white glue.  I recommend against CA glue as it can cause premature brittle failure of your rigging.  After rigging completion, I add seperate rigging coils fabricated from the appropriate rigging line using a jig.  As noted, some lines will be paired up on a single belaying pin.

Regards,

Pete

Floyd,

Ships curves are different curves more suitable for ships lines. A full set of 156 curves would be hard to find, but a selection of 6-8 common curves should be available on the internet. I have been using the same set of 8 curves for >50 years but I don't have the numbers with me.

Good luck,

Pete

Floyd,

That's right, the poop deck planks were cut from sheet stock. The planks were cut using ships curves (pictured) as a guide.

Regards,

Pete

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Next step was poop deck planking. Key points include:

>>> Poop deck planked using curved/tapered planks

>>> Deck planking laid out using design sketch

>>> Deck planking cut from sheet stock using ships curves

>>> Deck planking finished as per main deck planking (Ipswich Pine oil stain and oil based gell wiping varnish)

>>> Fancy rail cap installed after completion of poop deck planking

This completes deck, bulwark, hull, and transom construction above the main wales. The transom and upper hull framing on these vessels is rather complex but makes an interesting model when complete. My choice of curved planking on both the main and poop decks added a little challenge but I feel it was worth while. This model is but a small tribute to the craftsmen who built these vessels in the late 1700's.

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Continuing with the poop bulkhead, key points include:

>>> Poop bulkhead moved aft to clear cannon rigging

>>> Poop bulkhead redesigned based on contemporary practice

>>> Poop bulkhead designed as P/S removable panels with fixed CL panel (e.g. P/S panels removed when at battle station); see design sketch

>>> CL bulkhead panel includes support for steering shaft

>>> Poop bulkhead painted prior to installation

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Continuing with the fancy rails and poop deck framing, key points include:

>>> Heights of wales, black strake, bulwark planking, main rail, fancy rail, and poop deck planking are all related

>>> Fancy rails pre painted to minimize masking

>>> Fairing of poop deck framing required

>>> Fancy rail caps left loose (install after poop deck planking)

With the fancy rails complete, the stern is starting to take shape. Next steps will include the poop bulkhead and poop deck planking.

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Floyd, Robert,

Thank you for your interest and a very good question re waterways. The following points apply:

Period Wooden Shipbuilding Practice

>>> The outer deck edge or waterway was a logical place to add strength members; i.e. the larger the vessel the more and larger strength members

>>> The current Clipper Ship "Young America" build log shows this even on the lower decks

>>> While some of the added thickness would be let into the frames, shipbuilders tend to add most thickness changes away from the molded line (top of deck frames and outside of shell frames)

>>> As a result, most deck scuppers were located in the waterway planking or in the deck planking IB with a bend just below the deck framing (see "Newsboy" picture attached)

>>> Some coastal schooners left out the lower bulwark plank or part there of (see "Eagle" picture attached)

Modern Steel Shipbuilding Practice

>>> The outer deck plate (deck stringer) and upper shell plate (shear strake) are often thicker high strength notch tough steel (up to 2/1/2" on modern container ships)

>>> As an exception to the general rule, this is sometimes let into the internal framing (i.e. flush on top)

>>> Deck scuppers are pipe with a 120 degree bend below the deck framing passing out through the shell plating

>>> Modern ships typically have no camber, and if used camber is straight line

>>> Modern ships typically have no shear, and if used shear is straight line

>>> These changes are a result of mechanized flat panel line construction

>>> Deck drainage is considered early in the design, but remember ships are constantly in motion at sea and therefore through off most deck water when at sea, in port they are moored with a slight list to keep the decks clear

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

With the bulwarks, transom, and black strake complete, next steps included:

>>> Deck scuppers fabricated from 5/64" thin wall brass tube

>>> Deck scuppers drilled from both ends

>>> Wales fitted after completion of deck scuppers

>>> Bulwark cap rail fabricated from sheet stock

>>> Bulwark interiors painted prior to cap rail installation

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Robert,

Thank you for your interest. I would recommend 8-9" deck planks so 5mm would work just fine.

Regards,

Pete

wq3296,

With respect to building the "Fair American" mockup, I had several objectives in mind:

>>> Bulwark Height - this problem was previously identified in Bob Hunt's practicum on building the MS Armed Virginia Sloop circa 1768; FA drawings and bulkheads were inconsistent; and as I was using replacement cannons the bulwark had to be increased in height

>>> Bulwark and Upper Hull Planking Widths - plank widths were established to suit gun port height

>>> Waterway Construction Details - evaluate construction sequence

>>> Deck Planking Construction Details - evaluate planned design/construction details

>>> Deck Scupper Construction Details - evaluate construction sequence

>>> Silver Soldered Chain Plate Construction - evaluate new construction techniques and silver soldered ring diameters

>>> Cannon Tackle Arrangements - evaluate ring bolt locations, tackle lengths, and installation sequence

>>> Paint Colors - evaluate use of Floquil model railroad acrylic colors

>>> Go Ahead Decision on Modeling "Fair American" - mockup was constructed as I was building "Newsboy" and I was still evaluating a FA build

With respect to deck planking design:

>>> As I recall, the latest FA kit provides 1/8" or 6" wide deck planks; 3/16" or 8-9" wide deck planks would be more typical of the period

>>> Allowing deck planks to end in long tapers was considered poor practice as effective caulking of these joints was not possible

>>> I agree that OB nibbing of deck planks would not be appropriate as this construction detail was typical of the 1800's after machine cut planks came into general use

>>> I therefore chose to use curved planks with hooked scarfs more typical of hand cut planks of the 1700's

>>> Note that curved planks were also used on the poop deck

With respect to my modeling practice: I strive to model ships as they might well have appeared based on period construction practice. Therefore, I will deviate from model kit plans and instructions where experience suggests alternate details and arrangements apply.

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Nils: Thank you for your interest

Moving on to the transom rail and fashion pieces, key points include:

>>> Transom cap rail is curved in both section and elevation

>>> Transom cap rail might well have been fabricated in several pieces

>>> Transom cap rail was formed in one piece of sufficient width to accomodate the forward sweep required to follow the line of the transom

>>> Forming jig used to form the cap rail (see picture)

>>> Transom cap rail was shaped to fit the transom prior to installation

>>> Transom cap rail was installed with extra length and faired in place

>>> False scarfs were cut into the transom cap rail after installation

>>> Fashion pieces were partially formed prior to installation

>>> Fashion piece final forming was performed in place

>>> Bulwark planking, black strake, and whales were fitted and faired into counter planking

Note: This area has a complex and distinctive geometry typical of many ships of the period. It is critical that design and construction of the transom, transom cap rail, fashion pieces, bulwark planking, black strake, and whales all fit together.

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Continuing with bulwark construction, key points include:

>>> Bulwark and gun port framing fitted

>>> Bulwark ceiling (interior planking) fitted

>>> Bulwark sheeves fitted with ceiling planking

>>> Waterway drilled for deck scuppers (will be fitted later)

>>> Bulwark filler pieces added in way of hause holes, bulwark sheeves, rigging attachments

>>> Outer bulwark planking fitted

>>> Bulwark sheeves fitted with outer bulwark planking

>>> Aft gun port cover fitted (modeled in closed position)

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

With the main deck complete, I have attached pictures of some of the planning and design tools used in my "Fair American" circa 1780 build:

>>> Construction work sequenced based on initial plan review (allows a look ahead re next steps)

>>> Some construction resequencing takes place based on conditions

>>> Hull planking butts laid out per period practice

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Rich - thank you for your comments

Continuing with deck planking, the following notes apply:

>>> Deck planking stained with Minwax Ipswich Pine (oil stain)

>>> Deck planking finished with Bartley's Gel Wiping Varnish (oil based satin finish)

>>> Deck rubbed down with 0000XF steel wool

>>> Waterways installed after deck finishing

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Starting with deck planking, the following key points apply:

>>> Waterway fitted and left loose for deck staining/finishing

>>> Margin planks fitted with scarf joints

>>> Thick planking fitted around coamings from CL outboard

>>> Outer planking fitted from CL outboard

>>> Tapered/curved planks w hooked scarfs used outboard

>>> Planking layout follows design sketch

>>> Planking cut with use of ship's curves

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

In preparation for deck planking, the following was accomplished:

>>> Inner timberheads faired (some buildup required)

>>> Lower deck fitted

>>> Hatch gratings fabricated

>>> Hatch coamings fabricated

>>> Deck planking will be fitted around coamings

>>> Coamings fabricated with lapped corner joints

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

With the transom complete, next step was deck planking. Key points include:

>>> Thick planks were 3/32" x 3/16" basswood stripwood; PLAN DEPARTURE

>>> Outboard planking 1/16" x 3/16" basswood stripwood; PLAN DEPARTURE

>>> Curved/tapered planks with hooked scarfs outboard; PLAN DEPARTURE

>>> Planking fitted around hatch coamings

>>> Plank butts staggered per period practice

>>> Construction sequenced to facilitate staining/finishing deck planking

>>> These details are shown on the construction drawing posted below

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Rowan, Gary,

Thank you for your interest and support. "Fair American" is a fine looking ship from the American War of Independance. Having had the opportunity to study the original model, I decided to model her as she would likely have been built. I will try to note major departures from the kit plans as I move forward with postings.

Regards,

Pete

Welcome to the 14 Gun Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Continuing with the transom planking, key points include:

>>> Counter planking was straight

>>> Counter/transom plank widths to suit conditions

>>> Transom planking laid out with cambered planks (by eye)

>>> Transom planking cut from sheet stock

>>> Transom planking cut with aid of ship's curves

>>> Transom windows formed to follow curve of transom planking

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Continuing with hull construction, next steps are stern and transom construction. Key points include:

>>> Stern filler blocks faired using buttock templates

>>> Wales projected to counter to assist in shaping filler blocks; note that some bulkhead timberheads will require extension

>>> Counter and transom construction followed plans and instruction sequence

>>> Counter and transom construction required lots of plan work and a bit of judgement; curve of transom and transom profile shaped by eye; final transom shaping performed in place

>>> This work gives one great respect for the craftsmen who built these vessels

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder

Floyd, Nils,

Thank you for your interest in my Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build. Preliminary dry fit of hull framing showed that the kit had significant accuracy issues and that hull fairing could become an issue. As a result, I added the filler blocks so the bow/stern are essentially solid hull. Although it looks like a lot of material to remove, initial or rough fairing took less than four hours per quarter (total 12-15 hours). The #80 open grit paper really removes a lot of material when wrapped around a large piece of wooden dowel.

Regards,

Pete

Welcome to the Brig "Fair American" circa 1780 build log,

Continuing with hull assembly and fairing, key points include:

>>> Keel reinforcing pieces were added in way of pedestal holes

>>> Keel reinforcing pieces were added in way of mast steps

>>> Deck fillers were added to support plank ends outboard

>>> Deck fillers were added to support plank ends in way of hatches

>>> Hull planking reinforcing pieces were added in way of chain plates

>>> Bow/stern filler blocks were fitted after initial hull fairing

>>> Knight heads/timberheads fwd were fitted after initial hull fairing

>>> Initial hull fairing was accomplished with #80 grit sand paper wrapped around 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" dowels

>>> Final hull fairing was accomplished with #120 & #150 sand paper wrapped around 1 1/4" and 1 1/2" dowels

>>> Hull fairing was checked with flexible battens (1/16" & 3/32" strip wood)

>>> Waterline templates were used in hull fairing fwd

>>> Buttock templates were used in hull fairing aft

>>> During fairing process; stem, keel, and stern post were protected with blue painters tape

>>> Deck surface was faired with flexible sanding sticks

Pete Jaquith

Shipbuilder