Pete Jaquith

Hi Chuck,

I would suggest the use of sharp gouge and chisels finished off with flexible sanding sticks.  If the deck is low or lacks camber, you can build it up as shown below.  You will find more pictures on carving and working with solid hulls in my Brigantine Newsboy of 1854 build log here at MSW.

Regards,

Pete 

I would suggest basswood or pine for filler blocks.  Easy to shape but providing more support than balsa wood.  See attached picture of my "Fair American" build.

Regards,

Pete

Phil,

The following pictures illustrate copper sheathing applied on my Brigantine "Newsboy" 1854 in 3/16" (1:64) scale.  Copper sheathing was applied using Bluejacket self adhesive copper tape cut into individual 1/4" x 3/4" plates using a simple card cutter.  I did not emboss a nail pattern due to the scale.  Blue masking tape strips were used as an application guide.

Regards,

Pete

Hi Michael,

In my 14 Gun Brig "Fair American" build (here on MSW) I choose to use filler blocks to assist in hull fairing as well as providing improved support for planking.  Filler blocks were bass wood glued to the bulkheads prior to hull assembly.  Fairing was accomplished using 60 grit sandpaper wrapped around hardwood dowels.  This approach was successful in providing a well faired hull from an inaccurate set of kit furnished bulkheads.  I wood recommend bass wood or pine for filler blocks as its easy to work with but strong enough to support planking.

Regards,

Pete

Dave,

Several years ago I purchased a copy from B&N.com for under $60, excellent condition.

Regards,

Pete

jct,

I look forward to following your build.  My ​Brigantine Newsboy build log here on MSW illustrates my approach to carving and finishing a solid hull.  Note that I found a digital caliper useful in thinning the bulwarks.

​Regards,

Pete

Hi John,

Very nice model of a beautiful/interesting mid 1850's American sailing ship.  Your model gives a real feel of these small working vessels.

Regards,

Pete

Paulie-bag-a-donuts,

Some time ago I posted the following notes on carving solid hulls:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7105-shaping-solid-ship-model-hulls/

Regards,

Pete

Rob,

Coppering of Brigantine "Newsboy" in 3/16 scale using individual plates without imbosing.

Regards,

Pete

Chuck,

If there was sufficient interest there, I would like to see a series of quality mid 1800's American merchant sail.  This is an interesting period of marine history and it played an inportant role in developing the United States economy.  Additionally, the brigs, brigantines, packards, and clipper ships were beautiful ships.

Key attributes for these kits would include: quality plans, quality instructions, quality fittings, and prime wood.  Hull construction could be POB or POS.  Fabrication of deck furniture, masts, spars could be left to the modeler.

Regards,

Pete

Greg,

The following pictures from my Newsboy build may be of assistance. As illustrated, the bulkwalk planks were heavly curved.

Regards,

Pete

Tim,

With respect to plating your 1:192 scale liberty ship model the following points might be considered:

• Depending in the shipyard some liberties were fully welded, some had welded hull plating with riveted frames, and some had rivited hull plating with riveted frames
• At 1:192 scale 1" shell plating (.75" might be more typical) would be .0052" in scale, so I would suggest keeping the plating sutle 

Regards,

Pete

Shipbuilder

Vossy,

My notes on coppering here at MSW can be found at the following link:

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6783-coppering-the-ship-model-hull/

Pete

Ed,

Very impressive work.  Nice crisp deck details.  William Webb would appreciate your work.

Pete

Halbaby7,

You will find pictures and helpful hints re working with solid hulls at my Brigantine "Newsboy" 1853 build log here at MSW.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6454-brigantine-newsboy-1854-by-pete-jaquith-ms/page-1

Regards,

Pete

Edward,

Some pictures of carving the bulwarks on my Newsboy 1853 build.  Vertical cuts with a sharp gouge, then vertical cuts with a flat chisel, followed with flexible sanding sticks from the beauty salon finished it up nicely.  Digital calapers helped to check the thickness.

Regards,

Pete

You may wish to delay coppering until completion of all exterior hull outfit.  My Newsboy build log here at MSW will show this approach.

Regards,

Pete

Edward,

Good luck with your Phantom build. I am building the brigantine "Newsboy" also by Dennison J. Lawlor of Chelsea, MA. For shaping your hull, #60 grit sandpaper around a large hardwood dowel will will do it quickly.

Regards,

Pete

Shipbuilder

Lawrence,

Thanks for your interst. As soon as my full scale shipbuilding projects permit, I will return and finish the Brigantine Newsboy, 1854. You might also check out my Topsail Schooner Eagle, 1847 of interest.

Regards,

Pete

Ronjja76,

On my "Fair American, circa 1780" build, I glued filler blocks to the bulkheads before hull assembly. Rough shaping was done with disk and spindle sanders. Final fairing was done with #60 grit sandpaper wrapped around an 1 1/2" dia hard wood dowel.

Regards,

Pete

Ed,

This looks like a very effective framing/hull construction technique.  Thank you for sharing this with the NRG Model Ship World membership.

Regards,

Pete

For those modelers and marine historians interested in American Merchant Sail of the mid 1800’s, the following are three fine reference books by William L. Crothers:

The American-Built Clipper Ship 1850-1856

This well researched book describes the characteristics, design, construction, and details of American built clipper ships from the mid 1800’s.  The book is well illustrated and gives a unique insight into the design and construction of these beautiful ships.  The book describes in detail the design, arrangements, hull framing and fastening, and outfitting of these great American ships.  Tables summarize the arrangements and details of most American clipper ships of the subject period.  Masting and rigging are not covered in detail but they are addressed in The Masting of American Merchant Sail in the 1850’s by William L. Crothers.  

American-Built Packets and Freighters of the 1850’s

This well researched book describes the characteristics, design, construction, and details of American built packet and freight ships from the mid 1800’s.  The book is well illustrated and gives a unique insight into the design and construction of these important ships.  The book describes in detail the design, arrangements, hull framing and fastening, and outfitting of these fine American ships.  Tables summarize the arrangements and details of many American merchant sail from the subject period.  Masting and rigging are not covered in detail but they are addressed in The Masting of American Merchant Sail in the 1850’s by William L. Crothers.

The Masting of American Merchant Sail in the 1850’s

This well researched book describes the masting, yards, and rigging of American built clipper, packet, and freight ships from the mid 1800’s.  The book is well illustrated and gives a unique insight into the design and construction of these beautiful ships.  The book describes in detail the masting and rigging design, arrangements, and fabrication of these beautiful ships.  Tables summarize the arrangements and details of many American merchant sail from the subject period.  Hull construction and hull outfitting of these ships are addressed in The American-Built Clipper Ships 1850-1856 and American-Built Packets and Freighters of the 1850’s by William L. Crothers.

Regards,

Pete

I have used aniline dye in furniture building.  In building Windsor chairs with different wood species (pine, maple, and ash) I used different dye concentrations to match the color.  Chair assembly was done after dyeing with no dificulties using Tilebond wood glue.  Based on my experience, I recommend you dye your material off the model.

Regards,

Pete

wq3296,

The doors on my model are ~4' 6" high as I have modified the bulwark and quarter deck heights.  Tight, but with a step down under the quarter deck it would be consistant with period practice.

Regards,

Pete

Floyd, Jeff,

Ships curves were developed for drafting/fairing ships lines plans.  Their formilation gives a better fit with the shape we run into as ship model builders.  A full set of 156 curves is hard to find and expensive, but you can find a selected set of 6-8 curves for a reasonable cost on the internet.

For cutting pieces to shape, I use a few ships curves almost as much as a steel straight edge.

Regards,

Pete