keelhauled

Hi Mark,

I did adjust the lower deck.  If I remember correctly it didn't take much.  I don't remember having to make any adjustments to the false keel, but I could be wrong....It's been close to 13 years ago.

I had the ship in a cradle and leveled her transverse as well as her keel.  I then inserted a dowel, used a plum and protractor to check the angles and made adjustments with a rat tail file.  I also used an incline level to double check the angle (since the dowel wasn't tapered this worked well to check the angle against the protractor.  I also checked the angle between the deck and the dowel.  I have a tendency to check angles and squareness several independent ways to make sure that I'm not getting false measurements.

take it slow and easy.  It's not a difficult job, but you want to make sure that it is correct.

Good luck,

Marc

Thanks for the support Bob.  I'll be excited to get to the rigging, when I finally get there.  I need to do a million little things around the ship as well as deal with the sails.  I bought the pre-sewn sails from Manuta, but I not happy with them as is.  The bolt rope is a dark tan.  I'll have to figure out what to do.  Bought a sewing machine and played with it some.  But I know that I'm not good enough to actually sew another set of sails.

Merry Christmas!

Hmmm..  thought I had pics posted of the sheaves.. 

 

Like a small child who gets a 'grape popsicle'  and is happy with it, then sees sister with a 'cherry popsicle' he all of a sudden wants it....

 

This is how I feel about my chosen sheave color of black after seeing Marc and Nenad's white...

 

Ah, well.. 

 

Anyhow, broken drill bit shows where the boat davit crosses the aft sheave block, and all holes are pre-drilled, with a notch cut in the sheave block to provide clearance for the davit.

Funny, I like yours better than mine.

I guess we always want the other flavor Popsicle...

Good to see the piggies!

Bob,

where are the photos of your sheaves?  Also where is the pig these days?

I debated on the color as well. The photos from my trip have them black.  Then I saw some old photos and they were white.  

Just like everything else, it depends upon the day.  The heads are varnished teak..... then they are completely white, then they are white with black roofs.  And the deck houses...first they are teak with white panels, then they are completely white, then they are completely teak.  Anyone notice that the position/distance of where the bowsprit goes into the deck has changed through the decades as has the eye-bolt for the fish tackle.  

In the end, I think you just have to pick what you like.

With the sheaves I actually like the black better. But didn't want to draw much attention to them. I could have done a better job, but if I'm not careful I'd remake the stupid things over and over and over.  As it was I made eight and chose the last four.  I didn't mind making them, enjoyed it. But the point is that I would never make any progress.  Although I guess the real point is that I enjoy the journey.  

Marc

I agree Marc, sometime it seems we have Olymp full of modeling Gods here on MSW. Point is, for us mortals, not to be frustrated, be challenged and inspired. To fight with yourself

 

 

 you inspire as well!

Marc, take a look to Dan Vadas HMS Vulture, he gives me some bad ideas about wheel ...

 

 

Nenad, only trouble is that I'm not Dan (and I don't have a lathe, not that I think it would matter).  Dan is truly one of the model ship building gods.

Nenad, my sheaves are made and in location. pics are over on my build

Thanks for the inspiration.

I started working on a new ship's wheel.  I need you to build this so that I can see what creative way you have of building it!    I'm trying to turn the spokes and not doing so well.

Thanks

Marc

Here you go Nenad.

Before I just had these holes for the sheaves.  

Then I saw Nenad's beautiful work...(Nenad, I hope that you don't mind me using your photo.  If would like me to remove it, let me know and I'll take it down)

As usual, Nenad inspired and pushed me to do better!  So I started to do better.    

Then I ran into problems.  Previously the kit had the davits in the wrong location, so I moved them.  No issues until looking at including the sheaves, now I notice that the stanchions were now not correct becasue of moving the davits.  Another issue.   Oh well.  I'll do the best to fit the sheaves in and no one will notice one the rigging is all in place.

The actual ship (Nenad's photo)

So here is my take on them. Now I just need to fill the old holes.

Nenad, I ended up drilling from the inside since I had to move the sheave holes anyway.  

While I was working today, I thought that I would reattach the aft boomkin chains, which I had removed during reworking of the stern decoration.  I put to much strain on the starboard chain and broke it.  I decided to remove the eye of the boomkin to run the chain through the eyes for the ship and boomkin.  As I tried to break the boomkin eye free it broke.  I'd forgotten that I had attached it using epoxy.  That epoxy is great if you want the part to never be removed.  But if you need to remove that part your dead in the water.

Anyway I had to drill out the post of the old eye. (damaged part of the boomkin).  Repaired the boomkin, drilled out the post and reattached the chain.  Just one more minute mistake that took an hour to fix.  (At least it was only an hour!! )  I took photos, but the turned out poorly and out of focus.  

looking good

Hi Nenad,

guess what I'm working on today?  Bulwark Sheaves!  

Why? because you are a bad influence!     

I was happy enough just drilling a set of holes and working on other details.  Then I saw your work and I felt shamed.  So I started work and guess what? Because I had to move the boat davits due to the kit being wrong, they stanchions are off and well, now so are the sheave holes!  So decisions about what to do.  I'm taking the advice I gave you - no one will notice.  They are close enough.  Now the question is to re-drill holes from the inside or the outside of the bulwark.  I'm guessing the inside to out is the way to go.

Thanks for the push!

Nenad,

Nice work as usual!  I wouldn't worry too much about the port vs starboard side.  Once it's rigged no one will notice - other than you.  I guess the bigger question in alignment between the inside and outside of the bulwark.

Marc

Cool idea.  I've been wondering how to do the name and scroll on the billboards.  This looks like it might be a good way of going.  

Thanks!!

Looking good! Nice cats

Thanks Grant.  Now on to the sails, or maybe the upper shrouds, or the ships wheel.  Haven't decided yet.

Hi Mark,

Yep, I had the same issue.  Two ways to address it, cut new decks or take a rat tail file and go to work creating an oval then plank it. If you cut new decks you'll still have to shape the hole with the rat tail so that it fits nicely.  Not a big issue to correct, the earlier the better.  Without the rake the ship won't have the look of surging forward.

I've been working on this model for about 10 -15 years. I started with this kit and ended up kit bashing it - making most  everything other than the frames from scratch.  However, everyone is right that if you just built the model as she comes, you'll end up with a beautiful ship.

There are three of us, myself, Bob and Nenad, that are up to our necks in this ship and happy to answer any questions.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-bashed-tehnodidakta/

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/2728-cutty-sark-by-rfolsom-billing-boats/

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1000-cutty-sark-by-keelhauled-mantua-kit-bashed-first-wooden-ship-build/

cheers

Marc

Good start!  you might want to clip the nail heads on the hull.  They are a little large and may interfere with coppering the bottom, should you choose to do so.

marc

So after 3 months- maybe 4, the stirrups and footropes are finally finished.  I realized I've been working on these yards for over a year.  It took longer to make and outfit these yards than it took to assemble the frame and plank the hull!  Crazy.  Oh well.

Here are the fore yards with stirrups and footropes

The main yards.  The attached tags have the name of the yard. I'm getting old and can't tell the difference sometimes, especially since many of the fore and main yards have the same dimensions

finally the mizzen

Here's my high tech storage apparatus.  I spent quite a bit of time building this to protect the yards and the footropes. 

Happy New Year!  Hope you got some build time in!

Happy New Year!  I spent the day in the dry dock!!

Very nice addition, indeed.  I'm jealous!

She's looking beautiful!  Very nice work, indeed!

Very beautiful work!  I'm very impressed.  Your attention to detail really shows!

Nenad,

As to your brush problems-

The acrylic additive helps.  But I've found Kolinsky Sable to be the best answer.  I use these in my part-time profession, when I'm painting commissioned oil portraits.  I use these brushes to paint the eyes, nose and mouth.  Although I use these brushes for oil painting, they work fine with acrylics. Just make sure that you don't paint for more than a few minutes with the acrylics before rinsing the brush.  Also never dip more than the tip into the paint (very important). The fibers are from the tip of the weasel's tail and naturally all curve towards each other forming a sharp tip.  The finest brushes come from Russia.  They are very expensive in the US, but worth the price if you really need a brush that stays sharp and doesn't have brush lines.

Also Never, Never, cut natural brush hairs.  Each hair comes to a microscopic point which allows them to form a point in unison. If you trim the brush they will never come to that point again.  If you have issues, clean the brush thoroughly with soapy water, by placing the soap in the palm of your hand with water flowing over the soap and move the brush over the soap like if it were paint and you were trying to load your brush.  Then remove the soap and move the brush over the palm of your hand as if you were trying to paint it.  Do this many times.  Whatever you do, don't hold the brush upside down and squirt water into it - this drives wet paint up into the barrel of the brush and ruins it as well as weakens the glue and swells the wood handle.  After the brush is clean you can put baby oil in the palm of your hand and allow the brush to soak it up.  This will help if your brush needs natural oils back into the   bristles (you can also use hair conditioner).  This method will also work with dried paint on the brush.  I've recovered paint brushes with both dried oil and acrylic paints.

Marc