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glbarlow

NRG Member
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Everything posted by glbarlow

  1. I think I’d wait to see how that clinker hull works for the average builder
  2. I’m in on the Sphinx but life is too short to take on this beast. I can build three models in the time it would take for this monster. It will take James at least a week 🤣😂 It will be fun to watch others though.
  3. Here’s the 1:48 me, courtesy of Shapeways and inspired by Chuck. My hand painting is not as good as his, but it was fun to do with my 10/0, 18/0, and 20/0 spotter brushes. I also added weathering powder to the clothes which both gave it definition and made for a dirty shirt. 😂
  4. I should clarify - by keeping the bottle tightly closed and using it only to fill up my applicators my CA brand lasts years sitting in the cabinet. It's what is in the applicator, which isn't much, that will go bad after a few weeks. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1QQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LRT7TO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I do make it a point to store the applicator standing upright in a little holder and clear the tip after each days use.
  5. I like the high end painting station, mine is usually taped up newspaper but since those don’t exist anymore and I’m not going to use my iPad I’ll try yours. 😂
  6. One of the things I like about Speedy and Flirt is the close distance between bulkheads, especially at the bow, there seems to be more the traditional kit spacing on these. Or maybe it’s just my imagination.
  7. Ahh the secret is out. I get the first one, well the second one after James puts us all to shame. 😁
  8. As well made as Syren blocks or any blocks might be I always push an appropriate size drill bit through the block in advance of the rope to clear our any debris and/or to ensure a smooth opening for the rope - plus doing what you are by rubbing a bit of CA on the end of the rope to effectively create a needle, of course that CA has to dry and it takes very little to make it stiff enough to push through. Yes, CA does go bad after a while. I use the applicators I think I've shared before - at some point I realize the CA is getting a bit gel like and just toss the applicator and fill up a new one. I use watered down white glue on all the knots, though I do use a tiny bit of CA on rope as well in some situations. All this to say, welcome to the club we all experience the same sort of things.
  9. All the cannon on my models are up against the bulwarks. I’d think they stowed them this way to prevent them sliding around on the deck. Everything looks great, an excellent model that shows the time you’re putting into it.
  10. It's your hobby, it's great to apply whatever quality you're happy and comfortable with doing. I'm sure I spend way too much time trying to make everything as well as I can - to each his own be true.
  11. Looks like James has competition for fastest builder. Nice work.
  12. Fascinating to watch a design get developed. I agree about the risk point of the stern Frames. They do seem a bit fragile, maybe include a few spares in the kit.
  13. That's a really good point. I'm not sure I could pull that off, let's see how James does it 🙂
  14. So this one might take you a week to build rather than your usual 4 days 😂😁
  15. Looking forward to following your build of this interesting kit.
  16. Excellent review James. I’ve never seen anything like this, really looking forward to seeing the first build logs. It seems one potential challenge is if any of those pre-formed planks break, were any extras provided for the more clumsy among us? I’m also confused by all the interior detail and trying to imagine myself making all those barrels. I assume you’d only do that if you’re a masochist or are planning to expose the interior as part of the build. Quite the new approach to kits. I’m also surprised at the reasonable price for so much material. So who’s building the first one so we can all watch?
  17. The bulkheads on this model aren’t close. You’ll face the possibility of a wavy deck without the false deck. I doubt 1/32 or even. 1/16th would make a difference. I think we established you have a different POB than mine. I’m quite sure mine has a false deck. Your choice though, it’s your model. I can only offer my experience as suggestions
  18. These particular models deserve some bright colors. I like your red, I think it’s a great choice and is a perfect look for this model. Gotta go big with RED!
  19. Yes, it provides a solid surface for gluing planking and to prevent warping or twisting, I've never seen a model without one (other than elaborate plank on frame models of course)- even 1/32 would work.
  20. There needs to be a false deck on top of the bulkheads and then the deck planks applied to that, not the plank applied directly to the bulkhead. If one is missing from the kit I'd highly advise you to get some 1/16 basswood and cut one yourself. Very cool about helping with the restoration.
  21. Thanks for the tip John, I’ll see if I can locate one for trying fancier fancy moulding. 😀
  22. I’ve never not done inner bulwarks before decking to ensure a clean tight fit. I use a laser level to true up the masts. Your problem is either a warped dowel than or the slot is off, not entirely uncommon in some kits. A leveling process between the table, the ship, and the mast is a common step to take. I don’t follow your measurement process other than it seems it’s over complicating things. I doubt an exact knife would do much, you might be able to fake it with a mini chisel If that’s the look you want why not just cut the planks and lay them for real. Basic kits like this one call for full length planks only because it’s easier for beginners. It’s not hard to cut them, the only challenge is determining your planking shift pattern, which you musT do in advance of the first plank. You can lay full length ones in the center that will be covered by deck furniture.
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