glbarlow

WOP has to be properly applied. Wipe on and then Wipe off immediately otherwise it’s just a shiny thick mess. My hulls have 3-4 coats done this way and I think they look pretty good. I don’t like varnish or “oils” but there is no end to the debate.

James, sent you a DM…

Thank you, so many like you have shown me the way.

Thank you Rusty!

Thank you for continuing to say it😁

Well done Fred, it's looking great.

Chapter 8 Complete It took me a lot less time to complete chapter 8 than it did chapter 7. It would have been done sooner except for two things: I split my available time between Winchelsea and creating a book from our Kenyan adventure, it’s now done and being printed. The second, for some now inexplicable reason we got a puppy - what were we thinking. It’s a nice Beagle but it takes a ton of time…anyway. Picking up where I left off with the forecastle I created a few jigs to square up and assemble the two sets of bitts, the table with movable clamps comes in handy. The spacers were helpful in establishing proper distances as well as aligning both. I pinned as well as glued them to the deck after scratching through the coats of WOP on the deck beneath the runners. MDF left over from prior models repeatedly comes in handy for creating jigs. In this case I milled a carefully measured grove on the bottom of three pieces to square up the stove I’d made so very long ago. It has a small not visible rectangle of wood on the bottom planed the height of the stove legs so I didn’t have to depend on the thin legs. More importantly these spacers set the proper location of the chimney per the templates so it sits the proper distance from beams fore and aft of it. This is a bit tricking to establish so I spent a good amount of time dry-fitting and measuring, then first gluing in the drip tray followed by the stove. With that done I could then measure, place, pin, and glue the aft set of bitts. Again a MDF spacer between it and the cargo hatch was important. I had to interpret the plans a bit and judge the distance of the bitts from the aft most beam to properly place it. The MDF risers for the weight don’t sit on the cargo hatch, but instead a more narrow ones below it. The weights were needed as well as using a #11 blade to again scratch up the deck and its 3 coats of WOP below the runners. I mentioned this last time, it was very important to work slowly from bow to aft, it would have been near impossible to place the stove and the bits had I been premature in gluing beams, not to mention how the covered cannon would have been placed. Also had I mounted the cannon too early it would have complicated fitting and attaching the knees. Speaking of which, I’ve spent a long time on scraping, painting, and fitting all these knees. I will have to keep these photos for my memories as they’ll soon all be completely covered by decking. I’m sill considering alternative decking to keep some of them exposed. Anyway… You’ll notice blue tape running down the sides of the hull. I call those my canaries(as in the coal mine). I hit the tape (I hope) before I hit a cannon barrel or port lid in my clumsy fashion of moving too fast from tool tray to deck. It’s dumb, but so far it seems to work. I could just slow down and not hit them... With that the final two beams are glued in and the carlings added. The carlings too are a bit tricky. They will be covered by decking but are needed to support coaming. They have to fit snugly, neither too small or too tight and have the pairs be identical for that to happen. Measuring carefully of course is important, however my Byrnes disc sander makes fine tuning these possible. Thank you Jim Byrnes. I also added carlings to the quarterdeck per the templates. I used a laser gauge to re-establish the center line then transferred measurements from the templates to the beams. And with that Chapter 8 is complete (the waist cannons and elm tree pumps are just placed for the photos). Please excuse the low quality photos and pitiful backdrop. I need to create a separate photo studio someplace someday. Thank you as always for stopping by, your likes and comments are appreciated. Now the puppy needs attention.

The entire exterior of both my Cheerful and Winchelsea including the black wales but excluding the friezes have multiple coats of WOP as does unpainted wood on the deck and deck furniture. I don’t include WOP over painted interior areas, the multiple coats of red paint are enough. Just how I do it.

Although my other hobby is photography GlennBarlow|Photography This is not a photography site so I’m going to bow out of this thread. So, nope they are in fact different things. While macro photography includes stacking, stacking is not limited to macro photography. Focus stacking, such as a model or even a waterfall, does not include macro. Macro photography is all about showcasing a subject larger than it is in life. Focus stacking is about overcoming depth of field limitations of a single aperture for a deep composition. With that I’ll leave everyone to their opinions and go back to modeling.

I agree Gregory. My camera doesn’t stack them just takes as many as I want varying the focus point front to back, which I then have to stack in Photoshop (I used to use Helicon Focus but Photoshop has much improved this function). As I noted in an earlier post I rarely stack focus anyway, way too much work for one photo f/11-f/16 does about as well for my purposes. Macro photography is a whole different thing, something I could never get excited about but I know produces some amazing images. Taking boat photos really isn’t macro photography. A D850 by the way is ancient by camera technology definition.

@ChuckMay I recommend this thread be forwarded to Donna and family when appropriate. When I lost my dad years ago I was touched by a stack of small hand written (pre-internet) notes by many that knew him. I’d think Donna and Jim’s family might appreciate how far and wide was Jim’s reach into our modeling world.

Not sure what you’re defining as old. I first had this feature on a now 7 year old D850 and still have it on my current z7ii and two Z8s. Stacking with the camera in a fixed position modifying only the focus point is the best technique for stacking focus in my experience. Moving the camera changes the composition This is all just a matter of personal choice, whatever works for you. There is a difference between macro photography and focus stacked images, two different things.

Nikon pro level cameras have a much simpler focus stacking feature, a few settings from a fixed camera position and the camera does all the work with one click of the shutter. Of course the resulting images still have to be combined in post.

That’s an awful looking model. The framing looks toy like

Just curious as to why? The two fore riding bits are so much larger and more ‘beefy’ than the main mast bits on Winchelsea. Were they used differently or have a different purpose? Just curious.

Those are tricky angles for sure

I’ve never visited this forum, sounds like I will continue not to 🤣

Glad it helped Frank. Your English is more than fine. Let me know if I can help further I am scupper free so can’t help there.

Thanks, I think 😊 that’s not a connection I’d make.

Sorry Frank, I don’t understand the question. Are you referring to the deck clamps and the notches that hold the beams? If so that was an important step as I mounted the clamps. I prepared a couple of the beams, mounted the deck clamp on one side per the plans and instructions then used a mini-square and lots of measuring with the test beams to set the other side so the beams both perpendicular and the same height at both bulwarks (so parallel) to the deck. Most notches had to be widened, I only did that from the bow side so the stern side of the notch never changed. I also checked each beam against the plans templates for distance between beams and again checked heights as I went. As noted in the post adjustments were later required at the bow, still need a good starting point though. If that’s not what you were asking, please let me know.

A little respect for this site and our moderators would be nice. Go to Facebook if you want to post stupid stuff.

Thank you, I do try.

Thanks JJ. I think about it every time I’m putting the third coat of red on a knee 🤣

Thanks for the comment. I ran every plank I used on the hull and deck through it to ensure a consistent thickness an a number of other times as well. It’s the tool I never knew I needed until I got one and not sure how I did without it now that I have it.

Starting the Forecastle Moving on to the bow, it having looked so empty after finishing the first phase of the quarterdeck. I had fit the forecastle beams a while back so that meant re-fitting to match the template. In my case that meant the most forward six had to all be moved forward by varying amounts and the deck clamps modified accordingly. Chuck points out this was a known challenge going into the planning given the two vs. three dimensional view and variance amongst as-built hulls. I picked up using these surgeon quality chisels from @Blue Ensign a while back. The two sizes, the larger one shown here, are very sharp. The only version I could find were sterile (consequently more expensive) but they are more than worth the price for jobs like widening the deck clamp slots. Plus I don’t have to worry about my wood getting an infection. I elected to install the forward most beam once I had the proper distance from beam 7, 8, and 9 (triple confirmation) as those three along with 10 matched the template. That gave me measurements in two directions for moving the remaining 2-6 beams, double and triple confirmation. I got ahead of myself by not taking photos, and the ones I did take are off-angle. The bowsprit step, composed of four bits of boxwood laser cut was up next followed by the manger boards composed of 6 pieces (times two) including a strips of 1/64 x 1/8 planed to that thickness by my Byrnes thickness sander, 1/64 is about as thin as it goes, but it did it. Interestingly, but obvious when you think about it, the bowsprit step has a slight rearward lean to it, something to remember when setting the fully upright manager boards. Not shown, but as per the instructions, I also made the bits to match the step which will be added on top later (as Chuck points out in reality it would be all one piece but we won’t know the difference once added). The manger boards have to be shaped to fit the angle of the bowsprit step and also slightly more challenging, the bulwarks. They must fit and not block the knee for beam 3, so to keep that from happening I first permanently installed beams 2 and 3 and then the hanging knees for beam 3. Again my photos taking lagged building, the lodging knees were added after all this followed by beam 4 and its hanging knees. Finally, once all the lodging knees were in place the cat tails were added. It was tricky placing and fitting them. A provided handy template marked the bulwark side. Here again, while in reality one piece the catheads will be added later. I found this interesting, no other model I’ve built shows this detail. NOTE: I realized I’d missed-marked the starboard side, fortunately before gluing the cattail. It was erased and marked correctly. I used the bowsprit step as a reference point for the inward edges first by laying them on top and adding pencil marks as the guide suggested by the instructions, then the fun task of gluing, placing and clamping to bottom of the beams while aligning with my little finger and flat headed tweezers. I also added the foremost carlings only because I wanted to see how it looked. And this is how it all looks completed. I sometimes wonder if I really want to cover almost all of this work up with deck planking later, a decision I will defer to much later. The key for me is to work slowly front to back and not install anything until I ensure it won’t make installing the next thing more difficult. In short read and plan ahead. On to the rest of Chapter 8 and the remainder of the forecastle structure. As always, thank you for your likes and comments. They are encouraging and appreciated.