glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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It has, its intended to replace planking the deck, but nothing prevents you from planking over it - both have been done and shown in other build logs. -
I look forward to seeing how that goes. I’m going for the Master Shipwright version of Flirt. If it’s all boxwood I’d rather try almost anything other than walnut.
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Of course its up to you, I don't know how lime wood would hold up (as in I really don't know) and I understand boxwood and pear are out. It was just a thought....
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I guess we could do that if there was any boxwood of the right dimensions to be found in the world. Although I’m sure it be a bit pricey. Chris’ thought of lime is a good one.
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I’d like to hope for something that would compliment the boxwood design for Flirt. Walnut would be a bit of a downer, unless they were fully painted. In for a penny in for a pound I believe the expression goes.
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Is there such a thing as boxwood dowels for mast and yards.... 😄
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I was thinking the same thing - 🙂
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Good ole Bob Hunt. Cantankerous dude, but the AVS is where I learned to model. That really was a long time ago.
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- Medway Longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I’m going to remember this when I start painting Cheerful. I’ve always painted multiple coats, but like 3-4. I’d love to see your boat live. I bet you can feel the depth. Really nice job. I can paint a straight line...wait without tape...😱😳
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- Medway Longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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kit review 1:32 Fifie – The Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel by Amati
glbarlow replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
I wasn’t criticizing simply stating you don’t know that it isn’t accurate. It is, as you said, just your opinion. I have practical road going experience with cars, that doesn’t mean I can spot size differences of a particular model from a photo. Chris responded to you that he copied and followed actual plans and that it was accurate per those plans. That is answer enough. Since I doubt the model will be modified based on your opinion I suggest this is not a kit you want to buy. -
High end fire starter material for those cold UK nights...
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kit review 1:32 Fifie – The Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel by Amati
glbarlow replied to James H's topic in REVIEWS: Model kits
Is that really something to quibble about? I’m sure for a heavily used boat like this there were lots of variations. Let’s just enjoy looking at something different. My question though is where do the cannon go?🤣😂 -
The best modelers are the ones that adapt to and correct their mistakes - I don't think there are many that do it right every time - I certainly don't. There isn't much you can't recover from with modeling - except not having a squared frame to build on, hence my earlier advice. The nice thing about a double planked ship is you can do almost anything to cover the frame with the first planking, sand, wood fill, do whatever to make that a smooth form and the second planking goes on fine - I think Hunt probably describes tapering and measuring so with that practicum you'll be fine. And if not, you can fix it. That's the fun of it all.
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I’ve used water based poly on most of my models and have never had a “milk” problem. I suppose it’s in the brand. I’d think using an oil based varnish would definitely need thinning to prevent it from gumming up.
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Your plan makes sense to me. I for one am looking for quality, both of material and design. It seems that’s your direction. While I respect ASAT’s views on Bristol I find myself more interested these days in smaller ships that don’t take me years to finish. Is that Flirt’s false or primary deck that appears to be in 4 pieces? Have you thought about another cutter, or a 1:48 kit? Ok, I’ve exceeded my allotment of questions. Thanks Chris for being available, sharing your plans, and answering questions.
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My First start was the AVS with a Hunt practicum. I hope it works as well for you as it did for me.
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I built the Pride of Baltimore as one of my first models. I recommend you start with it. It’s more basic and a better place to learn than Chuck’s a dvanced long boat. Chuck has a .pdf that describes how to line the hull but that’s among the easier, but essential, parts of the planking process. Here is your first lesson: There are about as many methods for planking as there are modelers. PVA or CA glue, nails, battens or neither. How to mark, taper, bend the plank. There are many variations and hard held methods and almost all work. So do your research here and decide on a method that suits you and stick with it. It’s not as scary as it sounds. We all planked our first ship. As Chuck says start a log and ask for help. Second lesson. Take your time, use PVA glue and get your frame square, fair, and true. It all starts there. I don’t know if it’s still available, Bob Hunt Lauck Shipyards I think, had a practicum on how to build the Pride of Baltimore. It will guide you step by step. Welcome to the club.
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Looking forward to the Master special edition of Flirt.
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Though it’s not in a glass case, I got the plans for Pegasus when I built her, they are now framed and hanging in my workshop. It’s. A nice idea and I can tell you first hand does provide inspiration, making a connection to the past and the real thing. I have my little painted Cochran’s watching over me on a shelf, and read the kindle version of the book on him Chris recommended. He was quite the guy.
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You and I are officially labeled as trouble makers 🙂 but like you I’ve highjacked Other Glenn’s log long enough. Our heads will be knocked with belaying pins.🙉
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Didn’t mean to create a problem, I guess like you said I’d grown use to the comically sized fat ones. I have a similar issue with Amati and my current model, the swivel guns are bigger than the cannon.
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It's a good point and I'll retract my objection until I see how the PE versions look on mine. The brass ones are the best choice I think, I've ordered 8mm ones I'll blacken for my 1:48 Cheerful, I'm not turning anything on a lathe regardless of size, I'd hurt myself.
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Thanks for the explanation Chris, if you'd explained it before I missed it. I certainly understand about the scale and fat pin issue, that makes sense. I think my issue will be the two dimensional aspect of a PE pin, but I'll give them a try when I reach that point. Working at 1:64 does present it's challenges. Again thanks for taking the time to explain - and for the record I didn't ever think it was a cost issue.
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