glbarlow

Cheers guys. I only said something because I always get asked about my past designs, the Nelson's Navy period was not a happy time and, TBH, still upsets me when I think of all the time and effort I put into doing those kits, to bring on a new marketable range so quickly.
 
Anyway, now you know, so let's look forward rather than back - I just wish I had the balls to do this years ago. Still, better late than never...

Nice to see it In practice 😊

Which is why they have so many new designs since you left, as in none. Whatever happened to HMS Surprise for example. 
 
I liked Caldercraft,...until their factory operative left 😂🤣

Which is why they have so many new designs since you left, as in none. Whatever happened to HMS Surprise for example. 
 
I liked Caldercraft,...until their factory operative left 😂🤣

Thanks Glenn-- you've sold me on abandoning the idea of building a whole deck off the ship and then fitting it. I had anticipated the glue stain problem and thought about staining all of the planks before gluing them together to avoid glue rejecting the stain.
I'll have to think about putting the stem and keel on before planking. A compromise might be to do the first couple of planks without the stem then see how trimming them works.  I'm not there yet though.
I kind of didn't think that slight bow would be a noticeable problem, but this is my first POB build so I wasn't sure. I think I'll just leave it alone.

Todays miniproject: assembling the plexiglas cradle. 




 
I really like the style of this cradle,  i will probably design similar for my Caldercraft kits also. 
 
The photo etched plate look amazing!

Well, as far as I am concerned, that's now just history. I am very happy now, doing what I am doing without restriction.

Which is why they have so many new designs since you left, as in none. Whatever happened to HMS Surprise for example. 
 
I liked Caldercraft,...until their factory operative left 😂🤣

Had to decide between a mill and a lathe...now I want both😬

Post 28

 
Raising canvas


 
With the reef points completed the sails can now be raised and the sheets, tacks, halyards, and Burton pendents attached.

6257(2)

6258(2)
Rigging the Fifie, basic as it appears, is an interesting exercise not least because I am unfamiliar with the arrangements on these small commercial vessels, and my researches have revealed details not reflected on the kit plans.


 
I am rigging the model by reference to a combination of reference books, Edgar March, primarily.
I have used the plans of Underhill relating to the Zulu Muirneag, and of the Fifie’s Reaper and True Vine. Various photos, both old and of the current Reaper, were also of great assistance.


 
There is an indication on the plans of Reaper that the tyes were of wire rather than rope (not a modern substitution)


 
I did think about using wire, a scale diameter of 0.25mm would be required. This was fairly easy to reproduce from thin twisted  copper wire, but I couldn’t get the colour right, so I let it pass.


 
I am using Syren 0.45mm ø line for the Tye, and 0.20mm for the tackle.



6284
The tackle consists of a pendent and two large triple blocks.

I am using Syren 6mm blocks.

 
The strops represent iron and wire formed from silver soldered brass wire.



6282
A similar arrangement is used for the Mizen Tye and Halyard with smaller 3/16th double blocks (4.7mm).


 
Mizen Tack.

 

6295
A chain necklace was used to secure the Mizen tack which I have sought to replicate. The Scots called it a tuckle chain.


6288
A more interesting feature clearly shown on an old photo of the Zulu Muirneag.


 
The Fore tack

This is attached to a hook shackled to the eyebolt atop the stem. Often large hooks (horns) were attached to the port and starboard sides of the stem for this purpose.


6248
An alternative attachment point for the Fore tack is set in the deck a few feet aft of the stem.
 


This is as far as I can go with rigging at present, I am awaiting receipt of fresh rigging supplies from Chuck.


 
 
In the meantime I have been fiddling around with deck fittings.


 
These boats were also equipped with a set of sweeps for rowing. Mine are a scale 23’ overall.

 
There are also two ‘wands’ or hefty push sticks some 36’ long used to fend off and assist movement in harbour situations.


 
A 14’ boat hook completes the set.


6270
In this shot on the near side are the set of six sweeps, on the far side the Boat hook and wands.

The alternative hook for the Fore tack can be seen on the foredeck.



6272
Another shot of the sweeps and a glimpse into the hold containing the nets and floats.

 

6250(2)

6253(2)
Not far from completion but I still have the sheets and Burton Pendents to complete, the block sets have been assembled in readiness.


 

 
B.E

23/07/20

 


 

Deck fittings
 
Thanks as always for the kind comments and likes - they are much appreciated.
 
Just by way of a break from gun rigging, I was prompted by a question Glenn raised in the Masting & Rigging sub forum to replace the octagonal mast bases.
 
I posted a step-by-step guide in that topic so rather than repeating that now I'll just provide a link here.
 
I made the bases out of 2 mm boxwood sheet on my Proxxon micro mill. Arguably they would be quicker to make on a lathe, although I timed myself and it took just 20 minutes to make both bases. So I don't think there's much in it, and it provides an interesting little exercise if you have a mill and a dividing head/rotating table.
 

 
Derek

Gun rigging techniques
 
For completeness I ought to describe how I updated the little jig I made to strop the tiny 2mm blocks for the gun tackle.
 
The original jig was OK for a few blocks, but it quickly became obvious it wasn't up to rigging all 84. It was awkward to use, and the 0.3mm brass wire pegs that held the block in place were too soft and bendy.
 

 
So, I replaced the two brass pegs with  pieces cut from a broken 0.35mm drill bit.
 
Next, I cut the base of the jig away just in front of the new steel pegs - when the jig is mounted in the vice this gives me more space to wrap the ends of the wire round to form the hook.
 
Lastly, I glued a small piece of wood directly behind the pin that forms the ring (becket?) in the strop. The top of this piece of wood is level with the groove in the block. This stops the strop slipping to the bottom of the pin, and leaves the wire nicely lined up with the groove. The pictures probably explain it much better than I can - first without a block and then with a block being stropped:
 

 

 
One further little detail - I staggered the heights of the two steel pins deliberately. When they were both the same height, I found it quite difficult to get them both through the holes in the block at the same time. Remember, these things are tiny! Staggered like this, it's comparatively easy to get the first pin engaged then slide the block down to slide over the second.
 
Derek

Thanks Rusty. It could hitch a ride as cargo on your Winnie 🙂

Dang it, now I have to buy another Vanguard model. 😂🤣

I’m not at all precise about it. I soften the top back edge of the entire plank, beveling may be overselling it. I don’t put a hard 30 degree edge on it or anything, I find just rolling off the back edge works. I’m probably doing it wrong, but I don’t have any gaps and I would if I did nothing. I do check the fit as I go, the greater the curve (as in the roll of the stern, not the bow) the more the bevel. This plus the time bending a plank that almost lays to fit on its own before gluing has made a big difference for me.

Dang it, now I have to buy another Vanguard model. 😂🤣

I’m not at all precise about it. I soften the top back edge of the entire plank, beveling may be overselling it. I don’t put a hard 30 degree edge on it or anything, I find just rolling off the back edge works. I’m probably doing it wrong, but I don’t have any gaps and I would if I did nothing. I do check the fit as I go, the greater the curve (as in the roll of the stern, not the bow) the more the bevel. This plus the time bending a plank that almost lays to fit on its own before gluing has made a big difference for me.

Hey Garthog,
 
In the past I sorted guessed by where the plank stopped lying flush with the one above it, that’s still true but I’d often guess wrong by a few millimeters either way which led to an inconsistent curve, I was always catching up on subsequent planks. 
 
Lining the hull takes out the guess work. The tick marks showed bulkhead 6 is a full width plank but from bulkhead 5  to the bow the tick marks showed sequentially less than full width, hence the taper start point. That may change on the second, lower belt of 10 rows, another good reason for the two belts, but it was true of the top eight.
 
I also found by starting the taper at the same point, bh 6, I kept a nice curve.  Not sure if that’s true for every model, but it is for Cheerful, the tick parks supported that.
 
I am not perfect on my cuts. Every other plank I recheck the distance (in mm) from the last plank to the bottom tick park, my original tape mark for row 8, and divide by the number of remaining planks. Just me validating the tick marks, the measuring is more precise than just the pencil mark, a little perfectionist overkill probably. It doesn’t change the width of the plank at the bow much but it does some, it’s better to adjust as I go than to have a very wide or skinny plank 8.  I really like this method. It’s tedious to do all the prep but it pays off. 
 
Hope that helps. 

Dang it, now I have to buy another Vanguard model. 😂🤣

Hey Garthog,
 
In the past I sorted guessed by where the plank stopped lying flush with the one above it, that’s still true but I’d often guess wrong by a few millimeters either way which led to an inconsistent curve, I was always catching up on subsequent planks. 
 
Lining the hull takes out the guess work. The tick marks showed bulkhead 6 is a full width plank but from bulkhead 5  to the bow the tick marks showed sequentially less than full width, hence the taper start point. That may change on the second, lower belt of 10 rows, another good reason for the two belts, but it was true of the top eight.
 
I also found by starting the taper at the same point, bh 6, I kept a nice curve.  Not sure if that’s true for every model, but it is for Cheerful, the tick parks supported that.
 
I am not perfect on my cuts. Every other plank I recheck the distance (in mm) from the last plank to the bottom tick park, my original tape mark for row 8, and divide by the number of remaining planks. Just me validating the tick marks, the measuring is more precise than just the pencil mark, a little perfectionist overkill probably. It doesn’t change the width of the plank at the bow much but it does some, it’s better to adjust as I go than to have a very wide or skinny plank 8.  I really like this method. It’s tedious to do all the prep but it pays off. 
 
Hope that helps. 

I always look at the end of the section I'm working on, if I know what it's supposed to look like when its done its easier following the instructions to get me there. As others noted the first planking serves only as a base for the second.  Be comfortable sanding the heck out of it and using wood filler as necessary. The smoother that base becomes the easier and better looking is the the 2nd planking.
 
Think through any tapering you might need to do on the 2nd planking, better yet look at BE's and James builds, they've done one or two so steal, I mean learn whatever you can from their build on the second planking - even if its not in the words you'll see things in the photos. Believe me I'm doing that with my first scratch build in Cheerful - I have 4 particular build logs I look at, only at the post and pages that are at and just after the step I'm on. That's the best thing about this forum, you're not alone. Stealing, I mean adopting the best practices of others is how we all get better. If all else fails leave the area a few up from the keel and below the curve of the side until last. If you have to fill it in, fill it in a place where you can't see it when it's sitting on the shelf. Don't tell anybody I told you that, the perfectionists just fell off their chairs. Me I never make a mistake, that I can't hide.
 
I'm a big fan of @chris watton and Vanguard Models, I'm first in line (at least in my mind) for his shipwright version of HMS Flirt and already have HMS Speedy. I believe you chose wisely, not only because of the superb instructions but because Chris is a world class designer. AND he's on this forum so you can always ask the guy who designed or his ace master builder @James H any question.
 
Here's my modeling maxim: It won't all go perfect, mistakes are a part of the process. The best fun is to Adapt, Improvise, Overcome. Clint Eastwood borrowed that quote from me, no wait - I stole it from him. Have fun, power through any frustrating moments, get to the other side and enjoy your work.  That's my whole list of platitudes for the day, I'm all out now.

Hey Garthog,
 
In the past I sorted guessed by where the plank stopped lying flush with the one above it, that’s still true but I’d often guess wrong by a few millimeters either way which led to an inconsistent curve, I was always catching up on subsequent planks. 
 
Lining the hull takes out the guess work. The tick marks showed bulkhead 6 is a full width plank but from bulkhead 5  to the bow the tick marks showed sequentially less than full width, hence the taper start point. That may change on the second, lower belt of 10 rows, another good reason for the two belts, but it was true of the top eight.
 
I also found by starting the taper at the same point, bh 6, I kept a nice curve.  Not sure if that’s true for every model, but it is for Cheerful, the tick parks supported that.
 
I am not perfect on my cuts. Every other plank I recheck the distance (in mm) from the last plank to the bottom tick park, my original tape mark for row 8, and divide by the number of remaining planks. Just me validating the tick marks, the measuring is more precise than just the pencil mark, a little perfectionist overkill probably. It doesn’t change the width of the plank at the bow much but it does some, it’s better to adjust as I go than to have a very wide or skinny plank 8.  I really like this method. It’s tedious to do all the prep but it pays off. 
 
Hope that helps. 

Thanks Rusty. It could hitch a ride as cargo on your Winnie 🙂

Hey Garthog,
 
In the past I sorted guessed by where the plank stopped lying flush with the one above it, that’s still true but I’d often guess wrong by a few millimeters either way which led to an inconsistent curve, I was always catching up on subsequent planks. 
 
Lining the hull takes out the guess work. The tick marks showed bulkhead 6 is a full width plank but from bulkhead 5  to the bow the tick marks showed sequentially less than full width, hence the taper start point. That may change on the second, lower belt of 10 rows, another good reason for the two belts, but it was true of the top eight.
 
I also found by starting the taper at the same point, bh 6, I kept a nice curve.  Not sure if that’s true for every model, but it is for Cheerful, the tick parks supported that.
 
I am not perfect on my cuts. Every other plank I recheck the distance (in mm) from the last plank to the bottom tick park, my original tape mark for row 8, and divide by the number of remaining planks. Just me validating the tick marks, the measuring is more precise than just the pencil mark, a little perfectionist overkill probably. It doesn’t change the width of the plank at the bow much but it does some, it’s better to adjust as I go than to have a very wide or skinny plank 8.  I really like this method. It’s tedious to do all the prep but it pays off. 
 
Hope that helps. 

Well, you'll get no complaint from me!