glbarlow

I start with an acetone bath, then blackening for 90 seconds, then a water rinse, dry and a slight buff with a soft cloth.  The acetone bath is an important step. 
 
I have learned not all blackening solutions, like CA, are equal in quality or results. 
 
Foe me paint designed to look like metal rather than just black paint works ok, but only if weathering powder is applied, and not as good as blackening for some things. 
 
 

I start with an acetone bath, then blackening for 90 seconds, then a water rinse, dry and a slight buff with a soft cloth.  The acetone bath is an important step. 
 
I have learned not all blackening solutions, like CA, are equal in quality or results. 
 
Foe me paint designed to look like metal rather than just black paint works ok, but only if weathering powder is applied, and not as good as blackening for some things. 
 
 

Chris…the man, the legend. 
 
is this the NRG magazine all us members should receive?

Us, as in us members

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Glenn, the boarding ladder came out beautifully.  And no one would have know about the slight mishap when turning her over if you hadn't mentioned it.  A testament to your work and attention to detail!

Great work Glenn. It always freaked me out when we either had to cut or remove the molding. As aways you did a perfect job!

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Beautiful work Glenn.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Quarterdeck Cannon
 
No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.
 
One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.
 
The production line is ready.


The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 
 
On to Chapter 11.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Nice metal work, my least favorite thing. But then it looks so good on the model. Consider weathering powder, these look good, blackened and weathered. 

Post One Hundred and Sixty-seven
 
The 26 ft Launch - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.
Altho’ the main work on Indy has been completed, the overall display requires further work.
Building the Launch continues my work on the boats. I like the Launch because it offers opportunity to add detail such as the windlass.
I have been here before as I made up the 24’ Launch for Sphinx. This didn’t however guard me against breaking the stern post (twice) during the fitting of the transom.

4227
Again, I thought it prudent to add little support pieces to the build board to reduce any flexing during the fairing business. These small boats are delicate and require gentle handling particularly in the early stages.

4232
The fairing went ok.

4235
Regrettably, the stem broke in two places along the planking slot during the testing of the first planking strip, hardly touched it Gov’ner, and the repairs didn’t hold.

4236
I suspect it was a combination of the inherent weakness related to the planking slot, plus possible grain run of the stem.

4239
I did think about replacing the stem element, but removing the frames from the base resulted in what our American friends may describe as FUBAR.
 
Sadly, Indy will be without her Launch, but stuff happens – right.
 
B.E.
07/04/2024
 

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Thanks for the comment Eric. My cannons are a two step process. First airbrushing with Admiralty Paints Ironworks Black (I love the stuff, a rich matte black), airbrushing both the carriages and the guns produces a much more even finish, especially on the barrels. Then a four different brush application of Doc OBrien’s Rusty Brown weathering powder (which I also more lightly apply to the cap squares to bring it all together. Don't know why but the combination turns the cannons into a nice gun metal gray, credit goes to Chuck for the Rusty Brown, not an obvious choice.
 
Enjoying your work on Cheerful as well.