glbarlow

glbarlow, I was not suggesting that anyone was unwilling to help. I was in fact complimenting those that know for helping those that did not know. I was just saying that the answers to a lot of questions are found in the build logs of those who are struggling because they are seeking help. The superstars are the ones providing the help. I was just highlighting that those answers can be found in the build logs of those struggling so do not ignore those build logs. I have found everyone here to be of great assistance and free to pass on their knowledge.

Looking great!

Nice to see you back at work. I remember those doors…

Thanks for all the likes on my last post.  For this week I finished the bow cannons, made the 12 quoin handles, and drilled and added the extra bolts on the gun carriages.  Since these will all be painted I went ahead and used .020" styrene rod.  It's easier to work with and cut than wire.  The bolts stand proud of the surface by .010", which looks good to my eye.  I made a quick jig out of .010" thick styrene, and then cut the bolt heads flush with my superb PBL flush cutters (one of the highest quality, best tools I own, and sadly long discontinued - the cutting surface edges are very precise and produce an absolutely perfect flush cut).  The last step before the carriages will be painted is to drill the eye bolt holes (with the eye bolts to be added at a later time) and do a bit of clean up and filling where needed.
 
This will probably be my last update for some time.  I have family coming into town next week, and then I head off to Hokkaido, Japan to explore for a while.
 
Erik

Hull Planking Complete!
 
It’s a big day, after more than four months of doing nothing but planking the enormous Winchelsea I’ve completed planking her hull, yay! A little story on how I got there:

It begins with my once again championing Chuck’s planking technique. No way I’d gotten anywhere as good a result without heat bending planks. The one shown here is next up on the bow and, like its cousins, will fit perfectly without forcing flowing with the curves. It does take time and patience, there are planks that took me 10 minutes to shape (midships), others that took two hours, and more than a few that took almost an entire day. Many took multiple attempts to finally get one to fit right, more than a few were cracked in half and flung across the room - patience yes, but come-on man, fit already.

RIP. I’m sad to say, after hours and hours of use on Cheerful, Flirt, and 96% of Winchelsea my travel iron gave up and died. No matter, off to Target and $12.95 later it’s identical replacement is now in service of my shipyard. Maybe I shouldn’t leave it plugged in all day.

I spent over a week fairing the frames months ago, that doesn’t mean I did it completely right. With my limited abilities I sometimes needed the plank dry-fitted in place to see how it flowed. I am not reluctant to use a shim on occasion (never more than 1/64th needed fortunately) to make an adjustment where needed. In this case the rabbet slot wasn’t as deep as I’d like, a Swan Morton mini-chisel with two very sharp blade sizes (thanks @Blue Ensign) was perfect for making it a tad deeper.

In the vein of not always doing it right, the tick strips Chuck provides were a gift, saving hours of work lining the hull. However, as faithful as I tried to be I wasn’t always near faithful enough. Occasionally I got out my planking fan (also provided by Chuck, but with the Cheerful monograph) to check and often re-mark. Were I really good at cutting and adding planks maybe I wouldn’t have needed it, but this extra step payed dividends.


I followed a butt shift pattern that I extrapolated from the plans (which show only above the wales) then marked it out on the frames with my red pencil. Not being a total masochist I didn’t actually cut the planks at the first line of joints nearest the bow and last line nearest the stern, it was much easier and crisper to run those planks to the next joint, fitting the resulting longer plank. I then used this flat sharp blade to notch the joint into plank at the proper location before laying the next plank. So that secret’s out.
 
You can see in the upper right corner I’ve hand drilled one of three #4 machine screw size holes in the keel.  I don’t know yet what the final display board will be or if these holes are even needed, but it’s much easier drill them now than with the model finished.
 

So finally I came to the last plank - I had to sit for a while to appreciate how far I and this wonderful, but very large, model had come since I started it last November. With my zen moment over - it then it took me several hours to get it to fit, as for the last time broken rejects were flung across the room, and all was peaceful at last.

It may be hard to believe, or wonder why, but everyone of these sanding tools were used during the course of the planking. A bit extreme I’m sure but these Soft Sanders are perfect for the job. Last two times I ordered adhesive sandpaper the manufacturer included a number of half width sanders, so naturally I had to put sandpaper on them. I used 150, 180, 220, 320, 400, 600. and 800 grit at various times, again an excessive range I’m sure. I even used 1200 on the wales after they were painted to remove a few scratches without removing the paint. In addition to the soft sanders I frequently used my little wood blocks with the same adhesive sandpaper attached (every plank was beveled using those). The flexible sticks of 400, 600, and 800 grit shown in the photo are new additions from Amazon that were also helpful.
 
I realize that last paragraph was way more information than anyone cares about, but I feel an obligation to thank not only the plank bending process, but the tools that helped me get to this point.

Speaking of people to thank I absolutely have to thank Jim Byrnes for his amazing machines. The angle of every plank at the bow and every plank joint was shaped or squared by the Byrnes Sander. Every plank used was first run through the Thickness Sander (shown with my vacuum attachment still on top. It flings a lot of dust, I’d rather than was into my shop vac and not the air. It also fits the saw and the sander. (Also note the tape on the bottom with Up and Down direction marked for those of us easily confused, though maybe it should say More and Less). Every plank was milled on the Byrnes Saw, the most essential, and likely the best tool in my shop. I shared the story in the tool forum of the saw starting to make an atypical noise. I called Jim, after troubleshooting with me he sent a replacement part and guided me on installing it. It then worked fine, but was the blade was rubbing the blade cover, so he cut a replacement with the slot moved over a milimeter or two and sent me that. There is no better example of superb workmanship coupled with incredible customer care than Byrnes Model Machines.

Next up was the stern post. More complicated than you’d think but for good reason, it took several hours to fit. The laser cut post is cut large on purpose, because every hull ends up slightly different. The challenge is to both cut it to the proper length and shape the curve to fit at the counter, and of course to have a flat, squared, and leveled surface there where I’d terminated all those planks. I used practice pieces to sort out both the length and the curve. I could shorten the post, but of course I couldn’t un-shorten it, so several scraps were used to get it close with final sanding from there.

It was then marked, centered, clamped (including my handy large rubber bands doubled for the length required) and attached with Titebond III.


And it was done. While I didn't need wood filler in the planking itself I did use it along the seam of the stem, sternpost, and keel. I like the look. That look was made better by the use of the Winsor and Newton Pro Markers markers Chuck mentioned in his log. In my case Almond was the preferred color to add over the wood filler, I think it blended well.


 


In these photos and the ones above the WOP is freshly applied, hence the sheen bounced by the work lights. It drys to a nice satin finish, that in turn will age and even out nicely with time.
 
So, Chapter 2 is complete. I have my finished hull, after another coat or two of WOP on the port side I’ll finally turn her over right side up and begin the next phase. I’d like to say I’ve enjoyed planking (well, I kinda have) and wish there were more to do (I definitely don’t). Chapter 3 is about as different as it can be from Chapter 2, I’m looking forward to it as the next challenge.
 
Thank you all for your support with your likes and comments - its nice to hear from you and is very appreciated.
 

After a family trip to Costa Rica with my adult sons, our wives and grand children it’s back to building.  I left off with a reluctance to add swivel guns to the bollards.


 
I’ve stayed pretty true to Chuck’s design, so ultimately I added them.  They are kinda necessary for balance, the two on the forecastle were lonely. 
 
On to the final chapter, the head works around the bow. More to follow, lots going on in a very small space. 
 

I’d suggest getting some better wood for the cat heads and anything else from the Modelers Sawmill, a partner listed on top page. The wood in my Lady Nelson was ridiculously old and brittle. I also scratch made the windlass as the one included is hopelessly out of scale, simple to do and a good learning skill. I also use brass pedestals along with brass rods for mounting. I drill the necessary holes in the keel very early in the build, I’d recommend doing them before getting to far in deck furniture installation. 
 
Your first build is just that, an opportunity to learn and practice new skills. As others have said, the willingness to tear it off and do it over is a first step towards success. And, remember doing this fun. 

Thanks for all the likes and nice comments.
 
I’m making good progress on the QD beams and knees, all the way down to where I now have to start fitting the chain pumps in place.
The pumps were built as per the instructions without much issue along with the Capstans, columns, Main Jeer Bitts and Gallows.
 
Lets see how this final part of chapter 7 goes!

Started backstays with a sheet of .016 copper from K&S Metals. The monograph calls for the backstays and chain plates to be 3/64" thick and 3/32" wide strips. The first step was to rip the strips from the K&S .016" sheet using a 296 tooth slitting 3" blade on the table saw.

After putting blue painters tape on the backside I ripped several .1 strips. Next a .04 hole was drilled in the strip and the end radius'd. The strip was brought into shape per the monograph.

With the 6 backstays shaped they were annealed using a propane torch before bending the end loop. A needle nose pliers was used forming the loop.

With parts completed the loops were silver soldered closed to ensure from opening when rigging pulled taught. Image is of the backstays after pickling and before ultrasonic cleaning.

Parts will be painted and coated with aging dust after the chain plates are completed
 

Next Bulkhead completed.
 

I appreciate postage is not within your control. For reference it’s near the same amount as when you mailed me Sphinx a few years ago. Hence waiting for a bigger order.  Adder appeals to me 😊… once my Winchelsea is complete. 

I wanted a 1:48 version but unfortunately the postage to the US is near equal to the boat. Guess I’ll have to wait for me to have a larger order to optimize the postage. Still, very nice offering. I’ve never like making ships boats the old way. 

I wanted a 1:48 version but unfortunately the postage to the US is near equal to the boat. Guess I’ll have to wait for me to have a larger order to optimize the postage. Still, very nice offering. I’ve never like making ships boats the old way. 

I appreciate postage is not within your control. For reference it’s near the same amount as when you mailed me Sphinx a few years ago. Hence waiting for a bigger order.  Adder appeals to me 😊… once my Winchelsea is complete. 

I appreciate postage is not within your control. For reference it’s near the same amount as when you mailed me Sphinx a few years ago. Hence waiting for a bigger order.  Adder appeals to me 😊… once my Winchelsea is complete. 

There are no words.  Your work is amazing, working cabinet drawers and door that are then covered by a deck…..
 
Really outstanding!

I appreciate postage is not within your control. For reference it’s near the same amount as when you mailed me Sphinx a few years ago. Hence waiting for a bigger order.  Adder appeals to me 😊… once my Winchelsea is complete. 

I wanted a 1:48 version but unfortunately the postage to the US is near equal to the boat. Guess I’ll have to wait for me to have a larger order to optimize the postage. Still, very nice offering. I’ve never like making ships boats the old way. 

I appreciate postage is not within your control. For reference it’s near the same amount as when you mailed me Sphinx a few years ago. Hence waiting for a bigger order.  Adder appeals to me 😊… once my Winchelsea is complete. 

Damn! That's the trouble with the pre made hulls, they need to be packed well and in a box, otherwise they just won't make it in one piece. Stuff like that is always better if ordered with larger items.
 
But we will look at the postage options, these are always a nightmare and sometimes way over charge. When that is the case, I always refund the difference.

Deadeye test in the "English Boxwood" color along with a test of fiddle blocks and shoulder blocks.  Keep in mind these pics are just taken with my phone.  They look pretty good in reality.   
 

Nice garboard. Always the hardest plank to get right in my opinion. 

Nice garboard. Always the hardest plank to get right in my opinion. 

Nice garboard. Always the hardest plank to get right in my opinion. 

Nice garboard. Always the hardest plank to get right in my opinion.