DelF

I agree with all your points Dave. Chris has solved a lot of the problems for us, but I enjoy the problem solving aspects of the hobby so I'll probably have to go looking for extra challenges like making my own decks!

Well done. I believe this type of stern is called a round tuck, as opposed to the square tuck we’re probably both more familiar with, where the hull looks like a wine glass when viewed from aft. You’re still ahead of me!

What Gregory said! Excellent first planking. You’ve shown that using proper techniques needn’t take an inordinate amount of time, and will pay dividends in terms of providing a good base for the second layer without the need for excessive sanding and filling.

You'll be fine. First planking always seems more daunting than it turns out. It also helps having the person who built the prototype and wrote the manual on hand to point you in the right direction!

I agree, it's a tricky area. Looking at your log, I don't think you're a million miles from where you need to be. From your photos it looks like you just need to sand the ends of those stern planks a bit more so you end up with a nice curve up into the stern counter. When you've fitted the lower stern counter pattern and the stern post you may need a bit of filler if there are any large gaps. I've not finished sanding the stern on my model but this is where I'm at just now: Not very neatly trimmed, but it's only the first layer, and filler is our friend! Here's a couple of pictures with the stern post dry-fitted: I'm sure you know this, but it's worth emphasising that the second planking should end up flush with the sternpost, which means the first planking in this area must be thinned down gradually until it is flush with the mdf at the sternpost, which will leave sufficient gap for the next layer. Here's the lower stern counter pattern fitted along with the stern post: Plenty of scope for more sanding (and filling!). But I'm relaxed about that - James's prototype looked similar (albeit neater!) at this stage: Hope this helps Derek PS I should have mentioned that a decorative rail goes under the lower stern counter. That should cover a multitude of sins.

Hi Glen Yes, they're an old breed, originally used as draught animals. This Wikipedia entry gives more information, explains the differences between the Texas and English Longhorns, and mentions the Thoresby Estate herd which is the one I know. I envy you having your own herd of such beautiful animals. Derek

Hi Glen, and welcome to MSW. We have a herd of English Longhorns near us. Their horns vary greatly in size and shape, but these are fairly typical: Derek

First Planking Finished I've just finished the first layer of planking, which went relatively easily. The good quality limewood certainly helped, and @chris watton worked his magic again by designing the kit so that an exact number of planks was required at the midships frame - no awkward 2mm gaps to fill! I had five strips of lime left over, despite having spoilt a couple along the way. I tried to keep the first planking as neat as possible to minimise sanding and filling. Where necessary I used clamps as well as pins, with occasional edge bending: I've decided to try to follow best practice on the second planking so I've been going over the various tips and tutorials on the forum and books on the subject in my library. To get my eye in I started using a set of Staedtler proportional dividers I got on ebay a while ago. I'll cover these in more detail when I get to second planking, but in brief they simplify the transfer of measurements from the hull to planking strips, and (as far as I can make out) they do away with the need for aids such as tick strips and planking fans. I'd not used them in earnest before, but found them easy to operate and accurate. In the picture below I've used them as conventional dividers to mark out the shape of the final plank. I transferred measurements at every frame - and halfway between where the gaps were wider - joined the dots and trimmed to the resulting line. Experts advise using ships' curves or flexible curves to connect the dots, but I joined mine with straight lines. My dots were close enough together so that when I planed, spokeshaved and sanded my way towards the lines the result tended towards a smooth curve: Here's the final result, awaiting sanding: I was pleased that I didn't need to use a single stealer anywhere on the hull - each strake runs whole from the bows to the stern. Hope I can do the same on the next layer! On a final point, I said I would report back on the use of Super 'Phatic glue. Well, it's produced a rock solid result and I'm surprised how little I used, despite gluing the edges of many planks as well as the frames. This shot show how much is left in the applicator - and there's still about 1/2 inch left in the original glue bottle: I'll let the hull dry thoroughly before I start sanding, and I might start preparing the keel and the other components that need to be fitted before second planking. I'm looking forward to the next stage, as she starts to achieve her proper shape. Derek

Very tempted to follow your lead (not for the first time!) and go down the Navy Board route when I get mine.

She’s looking fine - you’ve produced a really good surface for the second planking.

Looking good Glenn - I found the gun port patterns quite nerve wracking but you’ve come through relatively unscathed. (Bob - be reassured, they’re never as difficult to fit as you think they’re going to be. I added glue to the bulkhead tabs for extra security; they still twisted off OK).

No problem - @glennard2523 put me on to it. On the applicator, I should have pointed out that it clogs very easily if you leave the cap off as the nozzle is so fine. I find I have to replace the cap after every application - if I forget I have to disassemble the nozzle and poke it through with a thin wire. I should also mention that it works well with thicker glues such as PVA.

Hi Bob. One of the reasons I started using the aliphatic glue was because I developed an adverse reaction to CA when I was copper plating Speedy, probably as a result of using it for hours at a time without proper ventilation. The Super 'Phatic isn't quite as fast as CA, but it does grab pretty quickly. For example I used it to stick a thin batten to the waterline on Speedy, gluing a few inches at a time (see here). I was able to hold each section against the hull with finger pressure for a minute or so and it held fine. Another example on Speedy was gluing the deck planks (here) where I got good adhesion and a stable result across the whole deck. On Duchess I'm using it for first planking and it's working very well without problems, although with the additional help of pins. I'll try it on the second planking without pins but if it doesn't work so well my fallback is odourless CA which doesn't cause the adverse reactions. I should add that I'm only using the aliphatic glue on the planking as an experiment. Ordinarily I'd be quite happy using regular PVA. It's a lot cheaper and works fine for routine jobs like first planking. Normally I'd reserve the Super 'Phatic for special jobs where quick grab is important and where pinning or clamping isn't easy (eg the battens) and where I'd prefer not to use CA. I can't say I've encountered the problems you have read about. Super 'Phatic forms a solid bond quickly and cleans up well if you get it on the surface of your timber. I've not tried sanding it though (I'm not sure why I would?). I'll be interested to hear how you get on.

First Planking Many thanks for the kind comments and 'likes' - they're always much appreciated. The first layer of planking is proceeding slowly and steadily. Slowly because a surprise visit from my youngest daughter and her family has provided an unexpected but welcome opportunity to spend time with grandchildren rather than the Duchess; steadily because that's the only way I know how to plank. So, just a short note on techniques. I'm gluing and pinning the first limewood layer. As an aside, I'm pleased with the high quality of the timber supplied - much better than the softer basswood that lime is often bracketed with. For glue, I'm using Super 'Phatic, an aliphatic glue which looks like a thin PVA but grabs very quickly. Scarborough Glenn put me on to this glue on my Speedy build and I now swear by it. I started applying it with a modified hypodermic needle as mentioned earlier, but I've now 'borrowed' a Fineline applicator from Mrs F's craft kit. This delivers the glue very precisely through a 0.5mm nozzle and the cap has a needle built in which slides into the nozzle and prevents blocking. I note that it is made in the USA so no doubt many of our American members know about it: I usually use fine nose pliers to push the pins in as my old Marples pin pusher is too big to handle the Amati pins Chris supplies. However I noticed Vanguard are now offering a much slimmer pin pusher so I thought I'd try it out. It arrived yesterday and it's ideal. Vanguard are also selling a version with an adjustable stop so you can drive each pin to exactly the same depth. It looked chunkier than the one I bought but may well suit people using beefier pins. I experimented with achieving the same function by inserting a short length of brass rod into the pin pusher to limit the downward travel, and that worked tolerably well, the only niggle being the tendency for the rod to drop out. This picture shows the new tool with the old one on the right for comparison: Also shown is my trusty Amati plank bender. I'm not using edge bending as the sole purpose is to achieve a smooth surface for the second layer. The Amati is fine for this layer, even for the tight curves on some of the stern planks. So far I've done seven strakes on each side. After seeing some of the fine results achieved by previous Duchess builders I decided to make each strake from two separate planks. This was a novelty for me but I found that having to focus just on the bow or just on the stern rather than on both on the same plank made things quite a bit easier. I'll do the same for the second planking, but will aim for more realistic plank lengths and spacing. Derek

Great to see you've started Flirt Glenn. The boxwood will make a beautiful model, and I'll be following along. Thanks for the kind comments about my Speedy log. Like you, I decided that my next log wouldn't be a blow-by-blow account, but instead would focus on key steps and out-of-the-ordinary techniques. Not least because I wanted to avoid endless repetition and duplication of stuff in previous builds. However, as your first log entry demonstrates, it is not easy to be casual and brief when you are passionate about something. Your logs are so well written and illustrated, and enjoyed by so many, that I think you may just have to accept that keeping a good log is an inescapable part of an enjoyable build, and should be part of the enjoyment. Of course, I may stick to my guns and keep the Duchess of Kingston more casual 🤣. Love your granddaughter's build, btw. Derek

You're right about the name Allan, but I felt that 'The Royal Yacht built for the Duchess of Kingston' was a bit of a mouthful for a log title, so I'm using Duchess of Kingston as shorthand. Interesting point about the drawings.

Just downloaded and skim-read the manual

Hi Dave, and welcome to my new log. Good question! The first few bulkheads in the bow, and to a lesser extent the stern, always require a lot of sanding as the angles are so severe in those areas, which is why Chris recommends fairing them off the model initially. I took off what seemed like a conservative amount - enough to make the final fairing on the model easier but not too much. I used the photos in the manual as a guide. Nothing too scientific, and I knew that if I got it wrong and took too much off I could always add a thin shim of wood to the offending bulkhead to make it right. Once all are assembled the job becomes easier as you can run your sanding stick along the hull across the bulkheads and rub down the high spots until all is smooth, using a length of hull plank to check it is making full contact with each bulkhead. The laser char acts as a good guide to where you've been and where you need to go.

Fairing & Bulwark Patterns After fitting the aft deck, temporary support beams and various bow and stern filler pieces the basic hull structure was ready for fairing, which I started with 120 grit paper wrapped round a strip of wood: I used 120 grit for the whole job, wrapped round a piece of dowel for concave sections and freehand for particularly tight parts. The laser char helps initially in judging how much you're taking off, but as a fail safe to avoid going too far I ran a pencil along the back edge of each frame: The MDF sands easily and the filler pieces in the bow and stern help in visualising the lines you need to take: The pictures in the manual are helpful in that regard, but I also constantly referred to the very useful photos in logs by @glennard2523, @Rustyj, @rafine and @desalgu . Thanks guys! Gluing the bow pattern was straightforward: Next, I followed the kit instructions and soaked the bulwark patterns in hot water for 30 minutes then clamped them round a tin and left them to dry overnight. I wasn't happy with the result and decided I'd used too large a tin, so I tried again with one about 4.5 inches in diameter. This time the result was perfect: The next part went remarkably smoothly. I'd not been looking forward to this part of the build as I'd found the bulwark patterns on Speedy quite difficult, with a tendency to ripple rather than lay flat. DoK's went on like a dream, with pins and glue holding the patterns in place with no problems: The ease with which parts fit seems to be typical of this kit so far. I should note that during the construction of the MDF hull I didn't have to sand any parts or slots to get them to fit. Everything went together snuggly and securely. The whole structure feels extremely robust and strong. I'm looking forward to planking! Derek

Kind of you to include me in this list Glenn, but as I said earlier in this topic I'm a real novice and the best tip I can give is to refer you to the advice I got from others on the forum, eg here. Having said that, you're definitely on the right lines with your new camera and lighting set-up. Digital makes it easy to try out different camera settings and lighting arrangements - I must have taken about 500 shots so far! Thanks again to Richard for the initial inspiration. Have fun! Derek

I agree. I wasn't sure about the acetate stand for Speedy, but I've been looking at display options and may decide to mount her on a mirror to show off the copper bottom. The clear stand is ideal for this. Here's a test shot I took on a mirrored table: The brass nameplate looks particularly good on the acetate.

After a short break since finishing HMS Speedy I thought I'd better start DoK, not least because I've already pre-ordered HMS Sphynx! As with Speedy, I accepted Chris's offer to do a boxwood version and I also went for the pearwood blocks and deadeyes having been very impressed with them on Speedy. As with Speedy I'll probably make my own boxwood masts but I've yet to decide whether or not to plank the decks in boxwood. This worked well for Speedy, but the maple decks in this kit look really good and I might be tempted to retain them. However I really like making my own rope on my Syren rope rocket and I'm keen to try out the Gutermann Mara thread Chuck Pasarro recommends, so I'll probably spend a day or so spinning up all I need for this build in one go. I've also decided not to produce such a detailed log this time round. I'll still document the main stages and cover any new techniques in detail, but I see little point in repeating exhaustive descriptions of stuff I covered in the Speedy log. Instead, I'll include links where appropriate so if people are interested they won't have to go round the houses to find the information they need. Also, James (@James H) produced such a good log for the prototype with such fine photos that repetition on my part would be redundant. So, my first impression on opening the box was that this is another quality offering. All the components look good, but I was particularly impressed with the manual, the 13 sheets of plans, the photoetch and the laser cut sheets of MDF and timber. Now that Chris has his own laser cutter the results are even neater, with minimum tabs to cut through and numbers etched on each part to aid identification: The manual suggests bevelling the three foremost and three aftmost frames before fitting. I used the flexible shaft attachment on the Proxxon tool to sand the bevels. A dusty job, for which I wore a mask and set up a vacuum hose to pull in as much dust as possible: After bevelling these parts it took just a couple of hours to get to this stage: Following the kit instructions again, I dry fitted all the parts before brushing slightly diluted PVA into all the joins. I'd not tried this before but it worked really well. I found that every part fitted snuggly without any fettling, and the whole structure felt very solid. I initially used a brush to apply the glue but found it quite slow so I dug out an applicator I'd made some time ago out of a hypodermic syringe whose needle I'd blunted. I got the hypos in bulk from Amazon. The last job today was to fit the cabin deck and the foredeck base. The cabin deck will only just be visible on the completed model so I was happy to go with the maple in advance of a final decision on boxwood for the more prominent decks. The decks fitted well so the weights and pins are probably unnecessary but I tend to take a belt and braces approach on the key hull and deck structures. If I continue at this pace I'll be finished before the next Olympics! Derek

Superb workmanship!

Thanks Phill. Glad you found it useful, and good luck with your future builds.

For the first planking I think that looks fine. You'll be amazed how different it will look after you sand it.