DelF

Thanks, that's helpful. I'll give evostick a go.

Derek

Crikey, you're fast!

I've been thinking ahead and wondering what glue would be best for coppering. CA makes me nervous at the best of times and I can just imagine it squeezing out of the plates and spoiling the surface. Does applying the CA to the hull help you avoid that, and are you using gel? Would Super Phatic work?

Derek

I've been concentrating on Speedy for a while, with just a little work on the rudder to report on.

I started with a spare piece of boxwood which I milled to the right thickness:

I traced the shape of the kit rudder on the sheet, cut it out on the bandsaw and shaped it with swiss files and sandpaper:

The rudder tapers to around half its width towards the aft end. I used pinstripe tape along the edge as a guide when filing and sanding the profile:

Strips of black paper and short lengths of wire for the pintles completed the rudder:

I used the rest of the boxwood sheet to make the tiller. This was a new skill for me, and I wasn't sure I'd be able to make anything half-decent. I started by gluing a photocopy of the tiller to the boxwood sheet and cutting out the rough shape on the bandsaw:

After that it was just a lot of care and perseverance with files and sandpaper. Again, the Vallorbe files proved their worth. As I said recently in my Speedy log, I'm glad I got a set of decent Swiss files a couple of years ago. I'd got by for years with a set of 12 files for £5 from a DIY supermarket, and it wasn't until I got the good set that I found just what a difference they make - beautifully crisp and precise.

Leaving a large piece of sheet attached made the part much easier to handle. Once I was satisfied with the shape I separated the tiller and drilled the end for a 0.5mm pin to attach it to the rudder:

The rudder fitted. Aaaargh! I realised as soon as I'd taken the photo that I'd fitted the tiller upside down. 

Fortunately the glue hadn't dried and I was able to retrieve the situation:

Phew. Quite happy with the result, although looking at the two pictures above I think I might prefer the first!  Indecisive? Me? 

I feel like I'm on the home straight now, although the oars may be tricky. 

Derek

Very smooth! I've ordered some of your Super Phatic glue - you should be on commission.

Derek

Just catching up with your log. I admire your courage in redoing the first few planks - it was certainly worth the effort as your first planking looks great to me.

Best wishes

Derek

Is this what you remembered? This is a different issue - I think Chris is referring to the method he has used on other models whereby the gun port openings are pre-formed by frames within the bulwarks. This would not be practical for Speedy as the bulwarks are too thin. 
 

Our issue is about lining the inside of the gun ports to neaten the cut surfaces. 
 

Derek

More good progress. 

I notice earlier in your log you used pieces of cut-off planking below the waterline to save material - that might explain why you've got some strips left over. 

Like you, I've wondered about lining the ports. I can't find anything about that in the build instructions, but I think I'll line mine for a neater effect.

Derek

Work is progressing well now second planking is done (apart from above the wales).

Trimming the planks level with the tops of the bulwarks was straightforward. Unlike other colleagues in the Speedy club I didn't trim the planks round each port as I came to it, preferring to lay all the planks in one go then trim the ports after the glue had dried. I had to use off-cuts from 2nd planking the hull, otherwise I would have run out of strips,  but it wasn't a problem as I was able to use the short lengths to fill in gaps between ports. I just left the planks slightly over-length so I could trim them to final size after they'd dried. I used the usual combination of drill, sharp tools and files to do the trimming:

The oar ports were the trickiest, requiring a drilled hole followed by a square file. I drilled from the outside, holding a block of scrap wood against the inside of the bulwark to minimise the risk of breakout. Once again the boxwood proved its quality, being relatively easy to carve and file. The job also reminded me how glad I was that I'd got a set of decent Swiss files a couple of years ago - Vallorbe brand. Like many of us I'd got by for years with a set of 12 files for £5 from a DIY supermarket, and it wasn't until I got the good set that I found just what a difference they make - beautifully crisp and precise. I found the barrette file particularly useful on this job - that's the one on the left of the two above. It just cuts on one face, so I could get right into corners without damaging other faces.

Next job was painting the inner bulwarks. Two coats of diluted red ochre - I may give it more later:

I'm looking forward to finishing off the outer planking next. That'll feel like a milestone reached.

Derek

As Glen says, good job on the bulwarks.

Are you guys running short on 2nd planking strips? I ask because I've had to use off-cuts from the hull planking to complete the inner bulwarks. Not a problem as I was able to use the short off-cuts to fill the gaps between ports, but the build definitely requires more than the 60 strips of 2nd planking timber supplied. Or am I missing something?

Derek

For the size of timbers we normally use for ship modelling I've found the Proxxon bandsaw more than adequate. I've also cut 6mm brass sheet and 25 mm aluminium rod with it. Like all their tools it is very well made, if somewhat pricey.

Derek

Hi SpyGlass

Here's the one I use. I call it PVA but technically it's an aliphatic resin - chemically similar to PVA but stronger and sandable.

It's described as fast grab, but don't let that put you off - there is plenty of time to position your work. It's fast in the sense that you should have a decent join in less than 30 minutes, although as with all glues of this type I leave critical joints such as frames overnight. 

I believe aliphatic resin is sometimes known as yellow glue, but mine looks white to me. I got it years ago - from memory at a model boat show - use it all the time and I've still got half left. The manufacturer is UK based Starloc Adhesives - here's their retail website shop-4-glue.com. You'll see they do a range of glues and applicators.

Hope this helps.

Derek

In the end I decided to go for a paper deck on which I'll draw my own planks.

No, seriously, I've gone for version 1  . Here I'm protecting it with paper and masking tape whilst starting to plank the inner bulwarks. With some relief I've gone back to using PVA, hence the number of clamps.

Derek

I think I’ll keep mine uncluttered 🤪, though it’s entertaining and enlightening to follow your thought processes and research!

Derek

Thanks everyone for your comments and advice. You all seem to be coming down in favour of the laser etched deck, and in particular version two.

I think I'll take your advice and forego the pleasure (?) of making a fully accurate boxwood deck on this occasion. Another time, perhaps. However I'm not sure which version of the laser etched deck I prefer. I get the point about the clutter around the hatches and other openings in version 1, but won't a lot of that be covered by coamings and the like? On the other hand, the trunnels stand out a lot on version 2 and they will be visible regardless. 

13 hours ago, glbarlow said:

If you go with boxwood I don’t think you have to do all the detail around the masts and hatches. If you don’t go with the boxwood then send it to me, because I can’t seem to find any😂

Glenn, for me it would be tapering the planks and getting the joggling right that would put me off. As for boxwood, I cheat and use the castello variety. It may not be quite the same as English boxwood but it still works well and gives a good finish. I get it in 3' x 4" sheets in a variety of thicknesses from 3mm to 10mm and mill my own timber for planks, spars etc. I'll drop some off next time I'm in Texas .  For really fine work, such as block making, I buy old boxwood folding rulers and they're guaranteed well-seasoned!

Derek

Bit more progress today, in between gardening chores - brief spell of warm sunny weather here, so I'm making the most of it. 

Removing the frame tops was surprisingly easy. The MDF broke off well - you just need to go steady to make sure you don't damage the gunport pattern, which is only 0.8mm thick. Gentle twisting with pliers is all that's needed:

Chris's instructions suggest using a file or sandpaper to clean up, but I found a new Swann Morton craft blade sliced through the remaining MDF and glue very neatly:

Next, I painted the areas inside the bow and stern that'll be difficult to do once the deck's in place. Speaking of which, I couldn't resist test fitting the laser etched deck:

Some unhelpful shadows here - I thought the deck actually looked pretty good. As a further test, I cut some boxwood planks and dry-laid them with a light pencil line to simulate caulking:

I'm still in two minds. If the boxwood was properly varnished it would look stunning. However Chris's design will be hard to follow, as the deck planks are tapered towards the bow and stern and are shown joggled into the margin plank. Do I stick with the laser deck, which I think is acceptable, or go for a stunning boxwood version and risk making a mess of it? I don't think I'd be satisfied doing a 'plain' boxwood deck - ie without the tapering etc. . Even though the finish would look great I'd miss the detail in the laser-etched version.

What do you guys think?

Derek

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

 

I'm not sure what "purists" would be bothered by, I think it looks great.  Nice job!

 

Thanks! Much appreciated. I just thought the line of some of the strakes looked a bit odd. 
 

Derek

I've had a good go at initial sanding. I still need to thin down the area where the stern post will fit, but otherwise I'm quite pleased with the result so far. Edge bending went well. There is some variation in the wood colours, but that won't be as noticeable when the wale is painted and the hull coppered below the waterline (I think I've decided to go down that route). In the following pictures I've applied some sanding sealer as a reveal coat, in other words to show up any areas needing further sanding. 

The run of the strakes may offend purists - especially in the lower hull area just behind the bows - but that will be covered by plating and for me the pleasing thing is how flat all the planks are laying. Having said that, I'm keen to try the edge bending technique in conjunction with properly marking out the frames. For example as Chuck has done with the Winchelsea group build.

I'm glad this part of the build is nearing completion - I'm relieved I've not made a total hash of the hull - and I'm looking forward to the next stage.

I must say it's great to follow along with other people's logs now that there are several of us in the Speedy club, and I'm looking forward to seeing SpyGlass catching up now that he's got his accommodation sorted.

Derek

You're cooking on gas now, as they say! Looking good - well done. On your question about the inner bulwark planks, it certainly makes sense to do each strip in shorter lengths, but I'm not sure the actual length matters too much. With all the gunports and other holes in the bulwarks I don't think your eye will notice the joins so long as they are staggered.

I'm still in two minds about using the laser etched deck or using it as a template for my own planks. I'll be interested to see what yours looks like when you've applied a finish. 

Keep up the good work.

Derek

Impressively neat second planking. I'm also keen to see how that filler looks after sanding. You're faster than me!

Derek

I'll look out for that!

23 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

As to scotch - I dont care what brand it is as long as its with Schweppes dry ginger. 

Dry ginger with good single malt? Sacrilege! I might join you in a Newky Brown though.

22 hours ago, glbarlow said:

Macallan for me. I visited the distillery in Scotland

I love the Islay malts but haven't visited the island. My favourite distillery was Highland Park in the Orkneys. My wife and I were the only visitors but we still got the full tour. 

22 minutes ago, PhillH said:

Has anyone coppered just one side?

Interesting idea Phil. I might wait for some other brave soul to try it!

Derek

58 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

Don’t be gone long Derek, you may find we’re using your log to discuss the merits of fine scotch

That's OK by me - I've just finished a very fine Lagavulin 🥃 🤪

1 hour ago, SpyGlass said:

could I suggest you could even pause for a minute after sanding and try the effect of a bit of stain varnish or wax before you copper

Good suggestion - I might well do that. I generally prefer the beauty of wood, but on the other hand I've not coppered a hull and may decide to give it a go regardless. I won't rush into a decision. Another malt or two first, I think.

Derek

13 hours ago, glbarlow said:

 

Sorry to hijack your log Derek,

31 minutes ago, SpyGlass said:

Sorry for diverting your log Derek !

Don't apologise gents! This debate is interesting and enlightening for the less experienced amongst us - and I include myself in that category. Your cutter looks great Glenn, besides being a good advert for edge bending.

SpyGlass - during first planking I dried several planks on the MDF bulkheads. Ignorance on my part, as I wasn't aware of potential problems. However the bulkheads suffered no ill effects that I could see. That may be because I dried them with a hot air gun rather than leaving them wet on the bulkheads for any length of time. Equally, it might be because Chris has supplied quality MDF. Either way, rather than follow my example you might want to experiment on a spare piece of MDF from the kit first.

Anyway - back to Speedy. I've finally finished the second planking.

On the positive side, tapering and edge bending got every plank to sit flat on the hull and snug against its neighbours. Port and starboard sides ended up almost perfectly symmetrical - the final plank on one side was about 0.25mm wider than the other.

On the negative side, I did not enjoy working with CA. Although it made the work go faster and removed the need for pins and clamps, I could not avoid getting it in places I didn't want it, including the front faces of planks and my fingers. Also, the knowledge that large areas of the hull will be coppered allows you to get away with stealers and other triangular fillers - OK for this build but probably a bad habit to get into.

Having said that, I'm pleased with the result and am reasonably confident the hull will be fine after sanding. I'm not out to beat speed records on this build so I might take a short break now, and perhaps get on with the Pinnace.

Derek

Thanks LS, and thanks everyone for the likes.

Just a very quick note on the pinnace today as I'm keen to finish the second planking on Speedy.  I'm currently in a dilemma over the splashguards. I started out with the best of intentions, gluing together the two components that make up each guard and making a little sanding jig to reduce them to about 0.8mm - half their original thickness:

The jig was just some scrap brass of the right thickness, glued to a piece of ply. As the photo shows, I was able to sand both guards at the same time to a uniform thickness.

My dilemma is I'm not sure I want to fit them! It should be clear by now that on this build I'm more concerned about appearance than historical accuracy - or the comfort of the cockpit passengers! So for example I left out the extended transom which I felt looked strange. Similarly, I'm not sure I like the look of the splashguards. To fit them I'd have to trim the sides of the seatback, but I like the way the seatback currently sits on top of the caprail. I also think the splashguard might detract from the clean lines of the caprail. 

Other modellers have taken both approaches - for example Blue Ensign went with the guards whilst Tigersteve left them off. Both models look great so that doesn't really help me decide. I think I'll leave the decision until later in the model. I should add that I left them off on the 1:48 version I built for the Royal Caroline, but that was because there were no guards shown on the latter's boat.

Oh well, back to Speedy.

Derek

Looks neater than my workbench! Good luck with the house move.

Derek